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ATLANTIC  AND  TRANSATLANTIC: 


SKETCHES  AFLOAT  AND  ASHORE. 


BY    CAPTAIN    MACKINNON,   R.N. 

AUTHOR   OF    "STEAM  WARFARE   IN   THE   PARANA." 


NEW    YORK: 

HARPER   &   BROTHERS,    PUBLISHERS, 
329    &    331    PEARL     STREET, 

FRANKLIN     SQUARE. 

1852. 


INTRODUCTION. 


ENGLISHMEN  usually  flatter  themselves  with  a  notion 
that  they  look  upon  all  foreign  countries  without  preju 
dice  ;  and  they  believe  they  are  thoroughly  conversant 
with  the  peculiarities  of  every  nation  on  the  face  of  the 
globe. 

No  doubt,  a  large  portion  of  them  have  a  general  insight 
into  the  habits  of  the  nations  of  Europe,  and  a  cursory 
knowledge  of  Oriental  countries  ;  but  of  many  other  por 
tions  of  the  world  they  are  profoundly  ignorant.  This  de 
fect  is  very  strongly  marked  in  the  upper  classes  of  English 
society,  particularly  with  regard  to  the  United  States  of 
America.  The  educated  American,  on  the  other  hand, 
which  includes  nearly  the  whole  native-born  population, 
is  a  strong  contrast  to  the  Englishman.  Many  Americans 
are  fully  acquainted  with  England,  in  the  most  extended 
acceptation  of  the  term. 

Such  were  my  impressions,  when  I  determined  to  visit 
the  great  American  Republic ;  and  I  may  truly  assert, 
that,  after  a  sojourn  among  our  transatlantic  brethren  of 
fourteen  months,  I  am  more  than  ever  confirmed  in  my 
opinion.  Not  a  year  passes,  but  numerous  active,  ambi- 

M88301 


INTRODUCTION. 


tious,  and  intelligent  young  Americans  cross  the  Atlantic, 
and  traverse  England  from  end  to  end.  No  novelty,  no 
ingenious  or  useful  invention,  escapes  their  shrewd  ob 
servation.  The  knowledge  thus  acquired  is  speedily  acted 
upon,  and  brought  into  profitable  use,  throughout  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  vast  and  fertile  regions  of  the 
United  States.  It  frequently  happens  that,  in  a  few 
months,  the  English  invention  returns  to  us  with  material 
improvements  before  it  is  generally  known  and  adopted 
in  England.  As  this  policy  is  totally  neglected  by  the 
English,  the  result  must  be  obvious  to  the  most  careless 
and  indifferent.  That  is  to  say,  Brother  Jonathan  is 
rapidly  going  ahead,  and  leaving  England  behind  in  all 
useful  and  scientific  pursuits — an  effect  not  to  be  won 
dered  at,  as  he  has  the  advantage  of  the  experience  of 
both  countries. 

The  civility  of  Americans  is  very  striking  to  a  stranger, 
especially  to  Englishmen,  as  it  is  exactly  the  reverse  of 
their  expectations.  Very  few  indeed,  who  for  the  first 
time  visit  the  States,  do  not,  in  ignorance  of  the  people, 
think  they  will  have  to  encounter  republican  bluntness  or 
rudeness.  But,  on  the  contrary,  Americans  are  courteous 
and  obliging  to  all.  It  can  not  be  denied,  however,  that 
they  have  some  of  the  prominent  faults  of  the  Saxon  race  ; 
of  which  inordinate  self-esteem  can  not  escape  observation. 
This  characteristic  fault,  which  they  partake  with  the 
English,  is  in  a  great  measure  hidden  among  us  at  home 
by  a  reserve,  growing  out  of  the  insuperable  barriers  of 
social  distinctions,  and  is  only  offensively  shown  forth  on 
occasions  favorable  to  its  development.  In  America,  on 


INTRODUCTION. 


the  other  hand,  it  is  "  let  out"  at  every  opportunity  in 
private  intercourse  ;  and  the  glorification  of  the  "  Stars 
and  Stripes  "  is  a  necessary  ingredient  at  all  public  meet 
ings,  if  the  orator  intends  to  succeed. 

Little  is  known  in  America  of  English  gentlemen.  This 
is  easily  accounted  for,  as  it  is  a  rare  thing  for  an  En 
glishman  of  independent  fortune,  to  visit  the  States. 
Brummagem  gentlemen,  therefore,  frequently  pass  as 
the  genuine  article  to  the  great  depreciation  of  the 
class  in  the  Yankee  mind.  Let  it  not  he  supposed  that 
all  Americans  are  unprejudiced  about  Englishmen.  It 
can  not  be  denied,  that  among  our  transatlantic  brethren, 
a  very  few  may  be  found  who  look  upon  an  Englishman 
with  blind  and  stupid  dislike.  For  the  credit  of  the 
intelligence  of  America,  however,  we  should  say  not  one- 
tenth  part  so  many  as  are  to  be  found  in  England  who 
blindly  under-rate  the  Americans. 

I  have  endeavored,  in  the  following  pages,  to  give  a  few 
slight  sketchy  details,  about  the  United  States,  and  Brother 
Jonathan,  as  he  is  at  present.  I  say  at  present,  for  the 
improvement  is  so  general  and  so  rapid,  both  in  people  and 
country,  that  a  very  short  time  may  render  these  pages  an 
unfaithful  index  of  the  giant  Republic.  I  must  acknowl 
edge,  that  I  look  back  at  my  sojourn  in  the  States  with 
great  satisfaction  ;  and  am  sure  that  I  shall  not  lose  a 
single  friend  among  the  many  I  was  fortunate  enough 
to  acquire  in  America,  because  I  speak  exactly  as  I  con 
scientiously  believe.  My  endeavor  has  been  to  write 
an  honest  book,  without  prejudice  for  or  against  either 
country. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Of  the  "  Miscellaneous  Narratives,"  the  second  appeared 
in  "  The  United  Service  Magazine,"  the  others  in  "  The 
New  Monthly." 

In  publishing  the  present  work,  I  have  been  encouraged 
by  the  approbation  of  my  friend,  Charles  Oilier,  whose 
literary  opinion  not  only  admits  of  no  dispute,  but  whose 
assistance  and  advice  have  often  contributed  to  success. 

LYMINGTON,  May,  1852. 


TOUR    IN    AMERICA. 


CHAPTER,  I. 

NEW   YOUR.  " 


The  "Empire  City:"  its  Population,  Site,  present  Prosperity,  and  former 
Disasters — Overthrow  of  the  United  States  Bank — Influx  of  precious 
Metals — England  and  America — Health  of  Americans — Disregard  of 
Prudence  in  Sanatory  Matters — An  enchanting  Procession — "Just  over 
the  Furnace" — Energy  and  Strength  of  American  Workmen — Singular 
Taste  for  living  in  Basement  Floors — Premature  Decay — Quick  Per 
ception  of  Americans ;  Anecdote — Extreme  Sensitiveness  to  Foreign 
Opinion — Physical  Decadence  of  the  Saxon  race  in  America — American 
Servants — Unfounded  Notion  of  "Republican  Rudeness" — Erroneous 
Demeanor  of  Englishmen  in  America — New  York  Hotels — Dinners 
and  Balls  in  private  Houses — American  Matrons — Zinc  Paint — Polit 
ical  Prospects  of  America — Letter  from  a  distinguished  English  Gentle- 


NEW  YORK,  or,  as  the  Americans  who  dwell  in  it  love  to  say, 
"  The  Empire  City,"  can  not  fail  to  excite  the  interest  and  won 
der  of  a  stranger.  If  we  glance  from  the  commencement  of  this 
century  to  the  present  time,  we  can  not  help  being  amazed  at 
its  rapid  progress.  Its  population  was  estimated  in  November, 
1850,  at  725,000  souls,  exhibiting  a  rate  of  increase  equal  to 
100  per  cent  every  sixteen  years.  Should  this  proceed  in  the 
same  ratio,  the  inhabitants  of  New  York  will,  in  twenty-five 
years,  be  equal  to  the  present  population  of  London,  namely,  two 


10  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

millions.  At  the  end,  therefore,  of  the  present  century,  it  is 
not  too  much  to  say  that  New  York  will  be  as  large  as  any  city 
on  the  face  of  the  earth  !  A  recent  Scotch  author  having  sur 
veyed  the  enormous  metropolis  of  Great  Britain,  and  estimated 
its  population,  happily  called  it  "the  London  nation."  The 
time  may  soon  arrive  when  the  term  "  nation"  may,  with  equal 
felicity,  be  applied  to  New  York. 

It  is  impossible  for  the  imagination  of  man  to  conceive  a  finer 
site  than  is  yosses^eq  ;oy  ':  The  Empire  City."  A  tongue  of 
land,  jutting  'forth"  into  -deep  water,  and  protected  by  the  curved 
point  and  islands' whibh  form  New  York  Bay,  present  altogether 
sufsh  \fkcilities:  for  commercial  purposes  as  the  world  can  not 
rival.  Added  to  this,  the  magnificent  Hudson  gives  access  to 
regions  more  magnificent  still ;  and  pours,  in  a  ceaseless  stream, 
the  countless  wealth  of  the  most  fertile  portions  of  the  earth  into 
the  bosom  of  the  city. 

The  wonderful  prosperity  of  New  York,  and  the  violent  fluc 
tuations  in  the  value  of  real  estate,  deserve  some  notice.  Prices 
at  the  present  time,  are  somewhat  higher  than  those  which  ex 
isted  in  1836,  the  period  of  the  former  great  crisis.  There  are  a 
few  situations,  however,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city  which 
have  fallen  in  value  much  beneath  the  rates  of  those  days. 
The  property  in  the  upper  part,  taken  as  a  whole,  is  consider 
ably  higher  than  in  1836.  In  certain  situations,  especially  on 
the  Fifth  Avenue  and  its  vicinity,  as  also  on  the  borders  of 
both  rivers,  the  prices  are  sometimes  even  300  per  cent  higher. 
The  basis,  however,  on  which  the  present  prices  stand,  is  essen 
tially  different  from  the  former  period.  In  1835  and  1836,  a 
spirit  of  blind  speculation,  amounting  to  mania,  seized  upon  the 
inhabitants,  and  lasted  some  years,  until  disasters,  which  ought 
to  have  been  foreseen,  burst  the  speculative  bubble  with  a  fear 
ful  explosion. 

The  first  mischance  was  the  fire  in  1835,  by  which  the  city 


NEW  YORK.  11 


sustained  a  loss  of  at  least  twenty  million  dollars  (four  millions 
sterling).  The  consequences  were  scarcely  felt  at  the  time  ;  but 
were  soon  fully  developed  by  the  contest  between  the  govern 
ment  and  the  United  States  Bank.  The  overthrow  of  the 
latter  came  with  crushing  effect  upon  the  public,  and,  like  the 
Philistine  temple  of  old,  shaken  down  by  Samson,  fell 

"With  burst  of  thunder 
Upon  the  heads  of  all  beneath." 

In  1837,  occurred  the  severe  commercial  crisis  in  England  : 
and  its  consequences  extended  to  the  most  remote  parts  of  the 
Union.  The  city  of  New  York  was  the  first  victim,  sustaining 
a  loss  of  more  than  fifty  millions  of  dollars  (ten  millions  sterling). 
This  was  caused  entirely  by  the  financial  calamity  in  England 
and  the  complete  prostration  of  credit  among  the  State  Banks 
and  individuals  of  high  financial  position  in  the  South  and  West 

Alarmed  and  crippled  by  these  successive  disasters,  it  is  not 
to  be  wondered  at  that  those  who  had  capital  were  anxious  to 
nurse  it.  An  unprecedented  accumulation  of  deposits  conse 
quently  took  place  in  the  private  banks.  At  this  time,  money 
could  scarcely  be  obtained  at  any  price,  or  on  any  description  of 
security.  The  panic  continued  until  1844,  when  a  reaction  took 
place,  which  has  steadily  progressed  until  the  present  moment. 

In  the  interval  between  1844  and  1851,  the  population  has 
doubled  itself;  and  the  circulating  medium  has  more  than 
doubled  itself.  The  influx,  likewise,  of  precious  metals  proceeded 
so  rapidly  as  to  set  at  defiance  the  quackery  of  political  finan 
ciers.  Commerce  was  enormously  and  profitably  extended ;  so 
much  so,  that,  with  ordinary  care  and  prudence,  no  serious  or 
permanent  interruptions  may  be  anticipated.  Still  it  can  not  be 
denied  that  the  great  and  sudden  rise  in  stock  and  shares,  shows 
somewhat  of  the  speculative  mania  of  England  in  1846. 

The  United  States  Bank,  which  once  controlled  the  mercan- 


TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


tile  transactions  of  the  country,  is,  as  already  stated,  defunct ; 
and  the  banking  system  of  the  States  is  thrown  open  to  a  fair 
and  healthy  competition,  founded  on  actual,  and  not  imaginary 
resources.  The  position  of  the  United  States  of  America  is  such 
as  to  rendei  her  a  very  valuable  friend,  or  a  dangerous  enemy, 
as  the  case  may  be.  Any  hazard  of  collision  between  England 
and  the  United  States  is,  however,  not  worth  a  thought.  The 
good  sense  of  the  community  in  both  countries  is  combined  to  put 
down  agitators,  who  wickedly  and  selfishly  try  to  create  "politi 
cal  capital"  by  heart-burnings  and  dissensions  between  two  great 
people,  who,  above  all  others  in  the  world,  are  united  by  every 
tie  that  binds  nation  to  nation.  Long  may  this  continue  f. 

No  stranger  landing  in  New  York,  can  fail  to  be  painfully 
struck  by  the  pale,  wan,  slight,  and  delicate  appearance  of  both 
men  and  women.  After  residing  some  time  in  the  country,  and 
acquiring  a  knowledge  of  their  habits,  instead  of  being  surprised 
that  «o  many  of  them  die  prematurely,  one  is  astonished  that 
they  manage  to  live  as  long  as  they  do,  or  look  so  well. 

In  a  lecture  recently  delivered  in  New  York  by  Dr.  Fitch,  it 
is  mentioned,  as  a  striking  fact,  that  in  the  States  only  four  out 
of  every  hundred  individuals  live  to  the  age  of  sixty.  In  En 
gland,  however,  he  asserts  that  seven  out  of  every  hundred  attain 
that  age.  Still,  though  the  climate  in  the  latter  country  is 
warmer,  and  more  temperate,  it  is  much  damper,  and  has  all 
those  atmospherical  and  other  conditions  which  contribute  to 
produce  an  immense  amount  of  consumption.  The  people  are 
so  confined  and  closely  packed — millions  live  so  poorly,  and  in 
such  miserable  habitations — that  a  far  greater  tendency  to  the 
above  disease  exists  in  England  than  in  America.  Why  then 
should  a  greater  mortality  prevail  in  the  United  States  ?  The 
reason  is  to  be  found  in  the  different  habits  of  the  people.  In 
England,  the  experience  of  the  old  is  reverently  regarded,  and 
taken  as  a  guide ;  while  in  America,  experience  is  but  little 


NEW  YORK.  13 


estimated,  and  the  young  consider  themselves  more  knowing  than 
their  fathers.  The  result  is,  that  they  often  find  a  fool  for  a 
teacher,  and  die  prematurely  for  their  presumption. 

The  average  of  human  life  in  the  city  of  New  York,  reaches 
only  to  twenty-five  years ;  some  years  it  runs  up  to  thirty. 

A  few  instances  which  have  come  under  my  own  knowledge, 
show  such  utter  disregard  of  common  prudence  and  common 
sense,  in  reference  to  health,  that  I  can  not  avoid  mentioning 
them,  in  the  hope  that  my  friends  in  America  may  read  and 
profit  by  these  home-truths.  A  beautiful  and  intelligent,  but 
rather  faded  American  lady  of  twenty-six  years  of  age,  was  com 
plaining  bitterly  of  the  infirm  health  of  herself  and  her  little  son, 
about  nine  years  old.  In  the  course  of  a  long  conversation,  it 
transpired  that  she  rarely  went  out  of  doors,  never  solely  for 
exercise.  Her  rooms  in  winter  were  not  suffered  to  be  at  a 
lower  temperature  than  70°,  and  they  were  often  above  90°. 
She  was  in  the  habit  of  eating  a  hearty  meat  breakfast ;  meat 
again  for  luncheon ;  and  a  third  time  at  dinner.  If  by  any 
chance  she  took  a  walk,  either  during  wet  weather  or  dry,  she 
had  nothing  to  protect  her  feet  but  light  and  thin  shoes,  such  as 
an  Englishwoman  would  be  considered  almost  insane  to  appear 
abroad  in.  "Who  can  wonder  at  her  delicate  health  or  faded 
beauty  ? 

"  But  your  little  boy,"  said  I,  "  what  sort  of  a  life  does  he  lead 
to  make  him  so  tender  ?" 

"  I  fear  to  let  him  out  at  all,"  she  replied,  "he  is  so  delicate ; 
and  his  appetite  is  quite  gone." 

"Do  you,  then."  pursued  I,  "keep  him  all  day  in  this  stifling 
stove  heat  ?" 

"  What  else  can  I  do  ?"   she  ejaculated  with  a  sigh. 

As  I  had  previously  seen  this  young  urchin  play  a  tolerable 
knife-and-fork  when  his  mother  was  absent,  I  determined  to 
watch  him  narrowly,  and  examine  his  diet.  I  had  not  long  to 


14  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


wait ;  for  on  the  succeeding  day,  I  peeped  into  the  room  where 
luncheon  was  prepared,  and  perceived  the  "tender  chicken"  re 
gale  himself  with  the  following  daiities,  after  he  had  first  looked 
carefully  round  to  see  that  the  coast  was  clear.  Taking  up  a 
small  pitcher,  he  poured  some  molasses  into  a  plate,  then  cut  a 
large  slice  of  butter,  and  mixed  it  well  with  the  molasses. 

"You  nasty  little  beast!"  exclaimed  I  to  myself;  "that  is  a 
capital  receipt  for  bile,  indigestion,  and  other  complaints  of  the 
stomach." 

Seizing  a  spoon  with  one  hand,  he  looked  about  the  table  with 
an  anxious  eye.  Suddenly  he  pounced  upon  some  pickles,  and 
having  amalgamated  them  with  the  other  ingredients,  he  com 
menced  eating  this  hideous  mess.  I  was  quite  overcome  with 
anger  and  nausea,  and  rushed  out  of  the  room  to  inform  his 
mother.  To  my  intense  astonishment  she  was  not  at  all  sur 
prised,  but  appeared  to  consider  the  exploit  as  a  matter  of  course. 

This  is,  perhaps,  an  exaggerated  example  of  the  great  error 
in  diet  prevalent  at  New  York.  It  can  not,  however,  be  denied 
— indeed  the  citizens  themselves  admit  it — that  life  in  this  city 
is  materially  shortened  by  too  full  a  diet,  especially  of  animal 
food,  and  the  neglect  of  fresh  air  and  exercise. 

Another  practice  fruitful  of  disease  and  death,  is  the  habit  all 
classes  have  of  wearing  the  same  amount  of  clothing  in  every 
season  of  the  year.  They  make  no  allowance  for  the  weather  ; 
and,  wet  or  dry,  wear  the  thinnest  and  lightest  covering  for  the 
feet.  It  is  difficult  to  purchase  in  New  York  a  pair  of  thick 
English  shooting-shoes. 

I  was  enjoying  a  cigar  one  Sunday  forenoon  in  the  smoking- 
room  of  the  Union  Hotel,  of  which  more  anon.  A  close  and  dis 
tinct  view  was  afforded  of  the  crossing  at  the  head  of  Broadway, 
and  I  beheld  a  stream  of  people  proceeding  through  Union- 
square  to  Calvary  Church,  to  hear  the  celebrated  Dr.  Hawks. 
My  attention  was  first  attracted  by  the  beauty  and  elegant  pro- 


NEW  YORK.  15 


portions  of  the  ladies,  and  the  costly  dresses  they  wore.  It  is 
impossible  for  a  man  (women  would  be  "at  home  in  it")  to 
describe  the  exquisite  texture  of  these  garments,  which  were 
extremely  long,  and  trailing  on  the  ground.  Onward  swept  the 
enchanting  procession.  Not  one'  lady  attempted  to  raise  the 
folds  of  her  drapery  from  mother  earth  ;  but,  regardless  of  mud 
and  wet,  they  all  tripped  daintily  along,  with  their  little  (almost 
shoeless)  feet  sullied  with  liquid  mud.  I  could  not  help  "moral 
izing  on  this  spectacle  :"  sad  it  was  to  reflect  that,  in  all  human 
probability,  many  of  these  lovely  and  fragile  hot-house  plants 
were  sowing  the  seeds  of  fatal  maladies.  Thick  shoes  and  En 
glish  habits,  would  fortify  them  against  the  consequences  of  ex 
posure  to  a  sudden  shower.  But  to  sit  in  church  all  bemired  and 
bedraggled,  betokens  a  recklessness  of  health  perfectly  astounding. 

The  following  evening,  several  of  these  ladies  attended  the 
Opera.  Again  they  were  arrayed  with  admirable  taste  and 
lavish  cost.  I  was  sitting  with  a  party  of  three,  who,  complain 
ing  of  the  heat,  wished  the  box-door  to  -be  opened.  As  soon  as 
the  performance  was  over,  they  did  not  hesitate  to  go  bare 
headed  into  the  open  air,  although  the  thermometer  was  about 
zero.  Their  extremities  were  almost  completely  exposed  during 
their  walk  home  over  frozen  snow,  having  carelessly  dispensed 
with  their  carriages.  How  is  it  possible  to  expect  health  and 
strength,  when  such  liberties  are  taken  with  the  constitution  ? 

On  one  occasion,  during  an  evening  visit  to  a  celebrated  lit 
erary  character,  the  present  writer  ("  albeit  unused  to  the  swoon 
ing  mood")  being  seized  with  sudden  faintness,  was  supported 
into  the  open  air.  On  his  recovery  and  return,  he  was  coolly 
informed  that  he  was  the  third  visitor  that  day  who  had  suf 
fered  in  the  same  manner. 

"How  unfortunate  !"  exclaimed  the  host;  "how  unfortunate  ! 
You  all  took  the  same  position  just  over  the  furnace." 

The  furnace  !     Only  imagine  the  effect  of  this  infernal  blast 


16  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

upon  the  human  system  !  By  such  constant  "  demi-baking," 
the  New  York  ladies  become,  when  within  doors,  painfully  sus 
ceptible  of  the  slightest  breath  of  air.  Their  nerves  are  gradu 
ally  affected,  and  the  brightness  of  heaven  is  offensive.  This 
feeling  causes  them  to  shut  out  light  as  well  as  air,  and  makes 
a  large  number  of  gorgeous  drawing-rooms,  dark  and  dismal 
traps  to  break  the  shins  of  unwary  visitors. 

There  can  be  little  doubt  that  the  climate  of  the  States,  from 
its  exceeding  dryness,  has  a  tendency  to  emaciate  the  human 
frame.  I  do  not  believe,  however,  that  it  is  prejudicial  to  health 
and  longevity  :  indeed,  all  the  people  whose  employment  is  in 
the  open  air  are  remarkably  wiry,  healthy,  and  strong.  Close 
and  suffocating  rooms,  want  of  exercise  and  air,  and  the  heating 
nature  of  the  diet — these  are  the  influences  which  cause  early 
loss  of  teeth,  dyspepsia,  wan  looks,  and  all  the  concomitants  of 
an  enfeebled  frame.  I  am  grieved  to  say  that  this  appears  to 
be  the  case  with  a  large  majority  of  the  population  of  New  York. 

The  extraordinary  energy  and  strength  of  the  workmen  must 
not  be  overlooked.  It  is  an  ascertained  fact  that,  in  ship-build 
ing,  the  men  average  nearly  twice  the  quantity  of  work  per 
diem  as  in  England.  Carpenters,  painters,  and  all  other  opera 
tives,  toil  in  like  proportion.  The  price  of  labor,  therefore, 
although  nominally  much  more  than  that  in  England,  is  in 
reality  less  for  the  amount  of  work  done. 

It  is  difficult  to  account  for  the  fancy  which  many  persons 
have  for  living  in  basement  floors.  The  upper  apartments, 
decked  with  the  utmost  splendor,  are  deserted,  unless  on  state 
occasions,  for  the  dismal,  gloomy,  and  cave-like  ground-floor. 
If  Americans  could  be  persuaded  that  these  apartments  in  En 
gland  are  generally  used  for  kitchens,  it  would  have  a  tendency 
to  break  this  uncomfortable  habit. 

Robert  Knox,  the  able  author  of  "  The  Races  of  Man,"  as 
serts,  that  "  Under  the  influence  of  climate,  the  Saxon  decays  in 


NEW  YORK.  17 


Northern  America  and  in  Australia,  and  rears  his  offspring  with 
difficulty ;  he  is  transplanted  from  the  soil  in  which  he  could 
physically  thrive.  Were  the  supplies  from  Europe  not  inces 
sant,  he  could  not  stand  his  ground  in  these  new  continents.  A 
real,  native,  permanent  American  is  a  dream  which  can  never 
be  realized." 

The  above  is  quoted  from  memory. 

There  may  be  some  foundation  for  these  remarks  ;  but  I 
imagine  that  the  "forcing-pit,  hot-bed"  life  led  in  America,  is 
the  chief  cause  of  premature  decay.  Little  doubt,  however, 
can  be  entertained  that  any  native  of  the  United  States,  whose 
blood  for  three  generations  has  not  been  refreshed  from  Europe, 
and  whose  immediate  ancestors  have  lived  in  cities,  bears  un 
failing  signs  of  the  Saxon  or  Celtic  American.  Firstly,  the 
early  loss  of  the  subcutaneous  adipose  cushion ;  secondly,  the 
decay  of  the  second  teeth  before  they  are  fully  grown ;  thirdly, 
the  premature  appearance  of  age ;  and,  lastly,  the  small  num 
ber  of  the  progeny,  and  the  few  even  of  these  reared  to  maturity. 
Perhaps,  however,  as  the  corporeal  degenerates,  the  mental  may 
increase  in  strength  and  activity.  Waller,  the  poet,  writing  of 
the  infirmity  of  age,  says,  very  finely, 

"The  soul,  with  nobler  resolutions  decked, 
The  body  stooping,  does  herself  erect." 

And  it  might  easily  be  imagined  that  this  spiritual  influence 
would  enable  the  spare  and  attenuated  Yankee  ax-man  to  get 
through  a  large  amount  of  physical  labor.  "  Will  you  tell  me, 
Master  Shallow,"  asks  Sir  John  Falstaff,  derisively,  "  how  to 
choose  a  man  ?  Care  I  for  the  limb,  the  thews,  the  stature, 
bulk,  and  big  assemblance  of  a  man  !  Give  me  the  spirit,  Mas 
ter  Shallow."  Place  an  American  ax-man  alongside  the  most 
Herculean  and  practiced  English  woodman,  and  it  would  be  seen 
that  the  Yankee  would  do  double  the  work,  with  less  labor  and 


18  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


greater  ease.  This  also  may  be  the  reason  why  American  arti 
ficers  are  the  quickest  and  most  skillful  in  the  world.  So  alert 
are  their  perceptions,  that  they  are  impatient  of  verbose  com 
mentaries.  Many  Europeans  consider  this  impatience  to  be  in 
attention  and  rudeness.  I  have  often  heard  complaints  of  this 
nature  from  prosy  Britishers ;  such  as,  "  Why,  sir,  I  was  giving 
that  damned  Yankee  important  information ;  and  the  rude  fellow 
would  not  attend  to  me,  but  bolted."  Most  likely  the  Yankee 
had  anticipated  the  whole  matter,  and  had  levanted  to  take  im 
mediate  measures  to  put  the  ideas  thus  suggested  into  practice. 

I  have  seen  extraordinary  business-proceedings  of  this  rapid 
and  summary  nature.  For  instance  :  I  was  acquainted  (at  an 
hotel)  with  an  agreeable  and  gentlemanly  American,  who  had 
just  discovered  on  his  property  huge  beds  of  coal,  of  which  the 
seams  are  forty  feet  thick.  He  was  then  occupied  in  forming  a 
company  to  work  them,  and  eventually  succeeded.  At  the  hotel 
he  chanced  to  fall  in  with  another  gentleman,  who  had  invented 
a  steam-boiler  of  great  merit.  In  five  minutes,  they  understood 
each  other's  projects  perfectly,  and  had  exchanged  shares  in  theii 
respective  concerns.  Just  as  these  preliminaries  were  arranged, 
a  third  individual  joined  them  ;  and  after  a  few  words  of  explan 
ation,  understood  the  whole  thing.  Pulling  out  his  pocket-book, 
he  spoke  as  follows  : 

"  I'm  off  to  England  to-morrow,  I  guess.  I  will  take  out  a 
patent  for  the  steam-boiler  in  London,  and  pay  all  expenses,  if 
you  will  give  me  a  right  to  half  the  profits  there." 

"  Done,  done  !"  all  round  ;  and  the  business  was  settled. 

These  parties  had  never  met  before,  and  were  utterly  ignorant 
of  each  other's  existence  ! 

Truth  compels  me  to  acknowledge,  that  the  mind  of  Americans 
is  the  keenest  and  most  adaptable  in  the  world.  They  acquire 
information  of  any  kind  so  rapidly,  and  have  such  ready  dexterity 
in  mechanical  employments,  that  the  very  slightest  efforts  put 


NEW  YORK.  19 


them  on  a  par  with  Europeans  of  far  greater  experience.  They 
do  not,  however,  possess  much  of  the  English  "  stability  of  char 
acter."  The  consequence  is  easily  foreseen  :  they  have  the  faults 
of  quick  and  ardent  temperament,  and  are  satisfied  to  rely  upon 
their  almost  intuitive  perceptions  ;  rarely  making  themselves,  by 
careful  study,  thoroughly  masters  of  a  subject.  Generally  speak 
ing,  they  have  a  wonderful  stock  of  miscellaneous  information ; 
but  it  is  mostly  of  a  superficial  character.  Not  one  American 
out  of  a  hundred  applies  his  mind  to  sift  thoroughly  any  abstruse 
subject.  If  such  a  man  appears  on  the  stage  of  life,  he  is  sure 
to  take  a  powerful  and  original  position  in  any  undertaking  with 
which  he  chooses  to  grapple. 

The  chief  reason  of  the  extreme  sensitiveness  of  the  Americans 
to  foreign  opinion,  particularly  that  of  England,  arises  from  an 
instinctive  dread  of  the  decadence  of  their  race  on  the  continent 
of  America,  which  will  likewise  satisfactorily  explain  the  intol 
erable  aversion  Americans  express,  and  no  doubt  entertain,  for 
the  negro  blood.  How  can  they  possibly  feel  otherwise,  when 
one  great  physiological  fact  is  constantly  pressing  on  them; 
namely,  that  the  Celt  and  the  Saxon  breeds  are  undeniably, 
however  slightly,  depreciating,  while  the  negro  flourishes  as  in 
an  indigenous  soil  ?  I  do  not  adopt  Knox's  opinions  entirely.  I 
do  not  think  the  American  continent  so  unfavorable  to  the  Celt 
and  Saxon  as  he  infers  ;  but  imagine  the  mischief  may  be  at 
tributed,  in  a  great  measure,  to  the  insane  physical  education  of 
the  young,  as  hinted  at  in  these  pages  ;  and  the  extreme  neglect, 
or,  rather,  I  should  say,  contempt  of  the  adult,  for  all  the  com 
mon-sense  precautions  for  health,  often  successfully  and  system 
atically  carried  out  in  the  mother  couutry.  As  a  singular  cor- 
roboration  of  my  opinion  on  the  erroneous  physical  education  of 
the  young,  I  will  mention  a  sign  that  is  patent  to  all,  if  they  will 
only  use  their  powers  of  observation.  I  allude  to  the  deep  red 
color  of  the  children's  gums.  Nine-tenths  of  the  juvenile  Amer- 


TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


icans  appear  to  have  a  chronic  inflammation  of  the  gums.  I  had 
abundant  opportunities  of  observing  this  fact,  as  I  was  living  while 
in  America  with  a  large  family  of  English  children.  The  dif 
ference  in  the  color  of  their  gums,  as  compared  with  American 
children,  was  quite  remarkable.  A  pale  blue,  with  a  slight  tinge 
of  red,  denoted  health  and  coolness  of  blood  in  the  English  infant ; 
while  the  inflamed  appearance  of  the  American  child's  gums  as 
surely  indicated  the  hot-bed,  forcing  nature  of  its  physique,  arising 
chiefly  from  too  much  flesh  food.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that 
this  heated  state  of  the  stomach  drives  the  system  to  early  ma 
turity,  and  as  a  necessary  consequence,  to  early  decay.  It  is 
very  difficult  to  account  for  so  erroneous  and  fatal  a  mode  of  life 
among  a  people  so  remarkable  for  keenness  of  perception,  and  for 
so  large  a  share  of  common  sense.  They  are  well  aware  of  these 
facts  ;  and  therefore  evince  great  irritation  and  impatience  when 
strangers  allude  to  them.  The  general  answer  to  questions  on 
this  subject  is  given  in  a  petulant  and  evasive  manner.  "  Oh, 
our  teeth  will  last  quite  long  enough  ;  we  don't  want  to  live  too 
long."  Now  I  can  not  help  thinking  that  such  hasty  answers 
are  thoughtless  and  shallow,  particularly  as"  the  evil,  in  my  opin 
ion,  can  be  almost  entirely  removed. 

It  is  common  to  hear  bitter  complaints  of  the  badness  of  serv 
ants  in  America  This  is  quite  a  fallacy  as  regards  wealthy 
people,  who  can  procure  excellent  servants  if  they  choose  to  pay 
for  them.  The  usual  number  of  domestics  in  New  York  houses 
is  far  less  than  in  England.  They  are  expected  to  do  much  more 
for  the  same  wages,  and  are  naturally  dissatisfied.  Let  the 
American  gentry  follow  the  English  custom  of  engaging  particu 
lar  servants  for  particular  duties,  and  the  evil  they  complain  of 
will  speedily  diminish,  particularly  if  they  hire  a  sufficient  num 
ber  of  servants  to  make  the  work  tolerably  easy. 

It  is  hardly  possible  for  an  Englishman  (who  has  only  read 
of  the  States)  to  arrive  in  any  one  of  them  for  the  first  time  with- 


NEW  YORK.  21 


out  some  little  apprehension  of  the  supposed  "  Republican  rude 
ness"  of  the  citizens.  The  moment,  however,  he  lands,  this  ap 
prehension  leaves  him.  He  feels  at  once,  almost  by  intuition, 
that  he  is  among  as  civil  people  as  any  in  existence.  This,  of 
course,  only  if  he  keeps  a  civil  tongue,  and  does  not  offend  their 
prejudices,  which  are  not  more  marked  in  the  States  than  in 
other  nations. 

An  American  citizen  will  listen  to  any  argument  with  atten 
tion  and  courtesy,  as  long  as  he  believes  you  to  be  sincere,  and 
not  actuated  by  the  depreciating  spirit  unhappily  so  common 
with  Englishmen  when  traveling  in  the  United  States.  Although 
our  transatlantic  brethren  are  intensely  national,  I  have  always 
found  them  just  and  fair  to  those  who  meet  them  on  the  same 
terms.  I  have  heard  abuse  of  England,  certainly;  but  it  was 
always  excited  by  the  vulgar  remarks  of  ill-informed  Englishmen. 
The  exaggeration  which  many  travelers  attribute  to  the  Ameri 
can  character,  is  the  result  of  a  lively  and  ardent  imagination  on 
the  part  of  the  people.  This  they  will  readily  admit,  if  urged 
with  gentleness  and  moderation  ;  and  I  have  frequently,  by  good- 
natured  banter,  made  individuals  correct  with  a  smile,  exagger 
ated  statements  in  which  they  had  previously  indulged. 

Few,  if  any,  English  authors  have  given  a  just  estimate  of  an 
Englishman's  chances  in  American  society.  The  Americans  are 
warrantably  proud  of  their  country,  and  feel  a  just  resentment 
against  prejudiced  foreign  authors  who,  laying  stress  upon  minor 
points  of  etiquette  and  good-breeding  (such  as  eating  with  a  knife, 
chewing  tobacco,  and  so  forth),  have  carefully  kept  silent  respect 
ing  their  admirable  schools  and  local  institutions  ;  their  plain 
common-sense  arrangements  ;  their  freedom  from  humbug  and 
from  absurd  restrictions.  This  feeling  makes  Americans  cau 
tious  in  their  first  intercourse  with  a  stranger,  particularly  if  he 
be  an  Englishman.  They  are  too  proud  to  make  the  first  ad 
vances  ;  and  a  reserved  Englishman,  with  the  best  letters  of  in- 


TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


troduction,  will  find  himself  in  an  awkward  position  if  he  ad 
here  strictly  to  European  etiquette.  But  if  he  have  the  sense  to 
break  the  ice  of  formality,  and  is  truly  a  gentleman,  I  promise 
him  great  success  in  American  society.  No  people  on  earth  are 
keener,  or  quicker,  or  better  judges  of  a  gentleman,  than  Ameri 
cans. 

I  fell  in  with  a  reserved  but  most  worthy  English  gentleman, 
who  had  been  some  months  in  the  States.  He  complained  bit 
terly  that,  although  be  had  brought  excellent  letters  of  introduc 
tion,  they  had  been  of  no  avail  after  the  first  formal  civility. 
"  I  never,"  said  he,  "  met  with  so  haughty  and  precise  a  set. 
They  don't  appear  to  care  a  farthing  about  me." 

"  And  whose  fault,"  I  asked,  "  is  that?" 

"  Why  theirs,  of  course,"  replied  he. 

"  Your  manner,"  I  rejoined,  "  does  not  convince  them  that  you 
are  anxious  to  cultivate  their  acquaintance.  You  must  alter  it, 
and  be  more  cordial.  You  will  then  succeed." 

My  prognostications  were  verified  by  the  result ;  and  my  friend 
soon  making  a  large  and  pleasant  circle  of  acquaintance,  speedily 
altered  his  opinion  of  American  society. 

The  Hotels  in  New  York  are  a  remarkable  feature,  and  excite 
the  astonishment  of  a  wanderer  from  Europe  by  their  enormous 
size.  Many  of  these  huge  establishments  are  capable  of  afford 
ing  accommodation  for  six  hundred  persons.  During  the  year 
1850,  most  of  them  (and  "  their  name  is  legion")  were  crammed 
to  suffocation,  their  proprietors  realizing  large  fortunes.  This 
overflow  of  business  has  caused  some  of  them  to  increase  their 
charges,  and  treat  their  customers  with  indifference.  A  gentle 
man  from  Europe  having  taken  up  his  abode  at  one  of  these 
large  houses,  was  rather  alarmed  at  the  prices,  and  after  two 
days'  experience,  addressed  the  clerk  as  follows  : 

"  Sir,  I  shall  remain  in  New  York  for  several  months ;  and, 
I  think  you  might  make  some  reduction  in  your  charges." 


NEW  YORK.  23 

The  clerk  continued  writing  without  looking  up  ;  arid,  after 
a  pause,  replied  :  "  Not  a  cent,  Sir.  Not  a  cent." 

My  friend,  somewhat  disgusted,  left  the  hotel  immediately. 

Another  gentleman  who  went  incautiously  to  a  large  Broad 
way  establishment,  without  making  a  bargain,  found  that  his 
week's  bill  amounted  to  180  dollars ;  equal  to  £37.  A  mem 
ber  of  Congress  informed  me  that  on  his  way  to  Washington  he 
stopped  three  hours  in  bed  at  the  Astor  House,  and  was  charged 
for  his  brief  nap  one  and  three-quarter  dollars  (nearly  eight  shil 
lings).  Thus  it  appears  that  the  citizens  are  victimized  equally 
with  strangers. 

The  cookeiy  is  admirable  in  these  hotels,  which  are  far  more 
comfortable  and  better  conducted  than  in  Europe  :  it  is,  how 
ever,  desirable  for  a  stranger  to  live  at  the  public  table.  Here 
he  will  be  struck  by  the  absence  of  conversation.  The  solemnity 
is  contagious.  A  very  distinguished  Englishman  lived  for  six 
weeks  at  the  New  York  Hotel ;  and,  although  two  hundred  per 
sons  sat  down  to  dinner  daily,  not  a  single  word  was  addressed 
to  him  during  the  whole  time  ! 

The  Union  Place  Hotel,  although  comparatively  small,  is  one 
of  the  most  comfortable  I  was  ever  in.  As  the  statistics  may  be 
amusing,  I  venture  to  put  them  on  paper.  The  house  has  a 
hundred  and  sixty  rooms,  and  can  accommodate  two  hundred 
persons.  The  charge  for  board  and  lodging  for  one  person,  is  2± 
dollars,  or  10s.  lOtZ.  per  day.  Families,  however,  can  be  accom 
modated  with  private  rooms  at  any  price  up  to  300  dollars  a  week 
Ten  cooks  are  employed,  and,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  bill  of  fare, 
good  ones  too.  Sixty  men  as  waiters,  fire-makers,  boots,  lamp- 
cleaners,  &c.  Cost  of  provisions  :  50  dollars  daily,  equal  to 
XlO.  8s.  Rent  per  annum:  12,000  dollars,  or  £2250.  Gas: 
2000  dollars,  or  £420.  Croton  water:  200  dollars  or  £40. 
Cannel  and  anthracite  coal  :  3000  dollars,  or  £600.  Total  ex 
pense  of  this  establishment :  200  dollars,  or  £40  a  day.  The 


24  TOUR.  IN  AMERICA. 


situation  of  this  hotel  is  admirable.  Warm  baths  are  attached 
to  every  suite  of  apartments. 

Although  on  a  small  scale,  this  is  undoubtedly  the  most  com 
fortable  hotel  in  New  York.  The  Irving  House  is  three  times 
larger,  and  of  course  accommodates  three  times  as  many  per 
sons.  Such  a  constant  crowd  and  bustle  can  not,  however,  be 
agreeable  to  strangers.  It  is  much  the  same  with  the  other 
large  establishments. 

As  a  specimen  of  the  viands,  I  give  the  "bills  of  fare"  of  both 
hotels  ;  assuring  my  readers  that  the  cookery  is  remarkably  good 
in  each. 

BILLS  OF  FARE 

•  -1 

Irving  House,  Oct.  29,  1850. 

Mutton  soup 

Baked  black-fish,  champagne  sauce. 

Boiled  :  ham ;  bacon ;  tongue ;  smoked  jowl ;  mutton,  caper  sauce  ; 
chickens ;  corned  beef. 

Roast :  beef ;  veal ;  pork ;  chickens  :  lamb ;  geese,  apple  sauce ;  ham, 
champagne  sauce. 


Filets  of  beef,  champagne  sauce  ;  chicken  pies  :  pork  chops  ;  weak-fish ; 
fricandeau  ;  roast  robins  ;  calves'  head  ;  lambs'  fries  ;  rissolles  of  chicken ; 
maccaroni  a  1'Italienne ;  ducks  braises  with  olives;  chicken  salad. 

Game  :   roast  wild  ducks,  cranberry  sauce. 

Pastry :  farina  pudding  ;  quince  pies  5  apple  pies  ;  Italian  cream ;  almond 
cake  ;  Conde. 

Dessert :  Brazil-nuts,  apples,  filberts*,  raisins,  Madeira-nuts,  hickory- 
nuts,  grapes,  almonds. 

Thirteen  kinds  of  vegetables. 

Union  Place  Hotel,  Jan.  9,  1851. 

Soup,  Julienne ;  rish,  smelts ;  boiled  chicken,  celery  sauce :  corned  beef 
and  cabbage. 


NEW  YORK.  25 


HOT    DISHES.  COLD    DISHES. 

Oyster  pie.  Ham. 

Baked  maccaroni.  Pressed  corned  beef. 

ENTREES. 

Grouse  piques,   sauce  Madere  ;  pigeons  a  la  Flamande ;  cotelettes  d 
veau  panee  a  1'Anglaise  ;   laperaux  sautes  aux  fines  herbes  ;   canards  do- 
mestiques  aux  olives  ;  pieds  de  veau  en  marinade ;  canards  sauvages  rotis, 
sauce  au  via  d'Oporto  ;  poulets  saxite  a  la  Marengo  ;  tete  de  veau  en  tortue  ; 
blanquette  de  veau  au  celery ;   fillet  de  mouton  pique  a  la  pure  de  navets. 

Roast:  beef;  mutton,  cranberry  sauce ;  goose,  applesauce;  turkey,  veal; 
capon. 

Game  :  wild  turkey. 

Pastry  :  whortleberry  pie,  mince  pie,  gelee  au  Xeres,  sago  pudding,  cran 
berry  puffs,  jelly  cakes,  ice  cream. 

Dessert :  apples,  Brazil  nuts,  almonds,  oranges,  raisins,  filberts,  pecan 
nuts,  figs. 

Ten  kinds  of  vegetables. 

There  is  no  city  in  the  world  where  household  furniture  is  so 
gorgeous  and  highly  decorated  as  in  New  York.  The  Americans, 
however,  do  not  understand  society  so  well  as  it  is  understood  in 
Europe.  The  grand  dinners  in  private  houses  are  truly  magnifi 
cent,  and  are  generally  supplied  by  contract.  No  doubt  this  sys 
tem  saves  trouble  and  annoyance  in  the  household,  but  it  is 
extremely  expensive.  As  a  general  rule,  the  hospitality  of  the 
table  is  less  practiced  than  in  England  ;  none  but  the  wealthy 
being  able  to  entertain  their  guests  in  what  is  considered  the 
proper  style.  Moreover,  they  do  not  understand  the  art  of  mak 
ing  a  dinner-party  pleasant,  chatty,  and  agreeable.  The  lady  of 
the  house  generally  goes  in  after  her  husband,  leaving  the  com 
pany  to  follow  as  they  best  can.  This  certainly  is  not  as  atten 
tive  as  if  the  lady  came  in  last,  according  to  English  custom. 
After  the  cloth  is  removed,  cigars  are  lighted,  and  the  wine  is 
passed  round,  as  in  England, 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  delicacy  of  the  wine  and  viands 

B 


TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


Madeira,  of  enormous  value,  that  has  "been  ten,  twenty,  and 
even  fifty  years  in  bottle,  is  introduced  ;  but  this  wine,  although 
keenly  relished  in  America,  rarely  suits  the  palate  of  a  newly- 
arrived  Britisher.  When  a  dinner-party  is  given,  no  pains  or 
expense  is  spared  to  make  it  perfect ;  and  it  is  no  more  than 
justice  to  the  entertainments  of  New  York  to  assert,  that  they 
are  superior  in  wrines,  viands,  lighting,  and  general  splendor,  to 
those  either  of  Paris  or  London. 

At  a  grand  ball,  given  in  one  of  the  best  arranged  and  most 
tasteful  houses  in  America,  one  dish  at  the  supper-table  cost 
forty- two  dollars,  equal  to  £8  12s.  As  every  other  arrangement 
for  six  hundred  guests  was  on  a  similar  scale,  it  is  easy  to  im 
agine  the  enormous  expense.  Should  any  of  my  readers  be  curi 
ous  to  know  the  composition  of  so  costly  a  dish,  I  am  able  to 
acquaint  them  that  it  was  compounded  of  English  pheasants, 
doctored  up  with  truffles  and  other  dainties.  As  the  expenses 
of  this  ball  alone  would  have  amply  supplied  a  dozen  in  Europe, 
to  the  great  gain  of  society,  so  lavish  an  outlay  of  money  pre 
vents  nu*merous  parties  of  the  same  nature.  Americans  dislike 
to  be  outdone  in  any  way  ;  and  this  creates  an  ostentatious  feel 
ing,  which  materially  affects  the  sociality  of  New  York.  At  the 
above-mentioned  ball,  there  was  a  show  of  diamonds  that  it 
would  be  difficult  to  match  in  England,  except  upon  a  state 
occasion. 

There  are  two  things  to  be  seen  in  New  York  so  pre-eminently 
exquisite  that  no  Englishman  ought  to  pass  through  the  country 
without  witnessing  them.  Let  him,  then,  get  admission  to  one 
of  the  "  Upper  Ten's"  balls.  Let  him,  as  soon  as  supper  is  an 
nounced,  hie  to  the  supper-room,  and  there  feast  his  eyes  until 
they  wink  again  upon  the  beautiful  American  girls.  The  ex 
ertion  of  dancing  has  created  on  their  cheeks  a  gentle  bloom, 
heightened  into  the  most  animated  loveliness  by  a  bumper  of 
champagne,  When  his  eyes  ache  with  enjoyment,  let  him  at- 


NEW  YORK.  27 


tack  the  next  relay  of  roasted  "canvas-backs,"*1  and  fill  his 
mouth  and  feast  his  eyes  alternately.  This  is  true  epicurism, 
which  a  man  can  never  forget,  and  of  which  he  is  not  likely  to 
grow  tiled. 

Two  anomalies  in  American  society  struck  me  forcibly ;  and  I 
do  not  think  I  am  betraying  the  kindness  and  hospitality  with 
which  I  was  treated  in  naming  them.  In  the  first  place,  ladies 
are  seldom  invited  to  a  great  dinner-party;  the  lady  of  the  house, 
therefore,  is  frequently  the  only  female  present.  Sitting  at  the 
head  of  the  table,  she  is  solely  occupied  in  attending  to  her 
guests.  The  gentlemen,  talking  loudly  and  earnestly,  appear 
almost  to  forget  there  is  a  lady  present.  The  lady  herself  is 
in  a  false  position,  and  clogs,  though  not  quite  prevents  the 
usual  hilarity  of  a  bachelor-party.  I  have  mentioned  this 
matter  to  several  American  ladies,  and  they  fully  agree  with 
me.  I  venture  to  "guess"  that  this  inconvenient  custom  will 
soon  cease. 

Secondly,  I  have  been  much  surprised,  at  the  magnificent  and 
luxurious  fetes,  to  perceive  that  elegant  and  beautiful  married 
women — who,  in  Paris  or  London,  would  be  the  centre  of  attrac 
tion-  to  all  the  talent  and  esprit  of  society — are  left  alone,  and 
comparatively  unnoticed.  These  charming  American  matrons 
do  not  hold  their  proper  place  in  society.  They  allow  them 
selves  to  be  pushed  aside  by  boys  and  girls,  and  become  mere 
lookers-on.  The  latitude  allowed  to  "  children  let  loose"  is  a 
bane  to  American  society ;  and  I  fully  believe  that  the  greater 
proportion  of  thinking  people  in  America  agree  with  me.  I  have 
witnessed  painful  scenes,  enacted  by  young  American  boy-men, 
at  the  close  of  grand  entertainments  in  New  York.  I  will  not, 
however,  annoy  my  kind  American  friends,  by  publishing  that 
of  which  I  am  quite  sure  the  actors  are  heartily  ashamed. 

*  A  delicious  duck,  so  called,  peculiar  to  the  United  States, 


28  TOUE,  IN  AMERICA. 


•Every  lady  in  NCAV  York  receives  calls  on  a  certain  day  in 
each  week.  From  an  early  period  she  is  dressed  en  bal  costume, 
arid  devotes  the  whole  day  to  entertain  any  friend  who  chooses 
to  call.  This  is  a  sensible  custom,  and  enables  strangers,  if 
they  choose,  speedily  to  become  personally  acquainted  with 
society. 

The  American  people  do  not  give  their  attention  and  devote 
their  energies  exclusively  to  politics,  commerce,  and  speculative 
enterprise  in  the  rapid  formation  of  new  cities ;  but  are  anxious 
to  rival  the  old  countries  in  domestic  elegance,  and  other  refine 
ments  of  social  life.  Among  many  instances  of  their  ingenuity 
they  have  invented  a  new  kind  of  paint,  produced  by  a  certain 
admixture  of  zinc,  which,  in  its  application  to  doors  and  shut 
ters,  covers  them  as  with  a  surface  of  white  porcelain — hard, 
polished,  and  apparently  durable  as  marble.  The  lustre  and 
whiteness  of  this  pigment  imparts  a  grace  to  the  interior  of 
fashionable  houses  in  New  York,  which  would  be  vainly  sought 
in  the  best  mansions  of  England. 

Respectable  Englishmen  are  extremely  rare  in  New  York  ; 
and  I  fear  some  of  my  countrymen  have  not  left  a  very  good 
impression.  Very  many  pay  flying  visits,  and  are  famous  for 
the  "mighty  haste"  with  which  they  rush  "  helter  skelter" 
through  the  country.  Living  at  private  tables,  and  aloof  from 
the  inhabitants,  how  can  they  form  a  just  opinion  ?  A  few  well 
educated  and  gentlernan-like  Englishmen,  without  prejudice, 
temporarily  residing  here,  would  correct  many  erroneous  impres 
sions.  They  would  enjoy  the  trip  much  more,  and  learn  and 
see  much  more  than  could  be  afforded  by  a  tour  in  Italy  or  the 
East,  except  classic  remains.  The  East,  for  the  most  part,  is  a 
world  defunct :  the  West  is  a  world  to  come.  It  is  high  time 
that  the  young  men  of  England  should  know  and  understand 
the  practical  working  of  the  institutions  of  this  great  country. 
It  is  high  time  that  the  willful  blindness  and  ignorance  of  those 


NEW  YORK.  29 


who  ought  to  know,  and  who  really  do  know  better,  should  be 
dispelled. 

In  twenty-five  years  from  this  time,  as  before  asserted,  the 
population  of  New  York  will  be  equal  to  that  of  London  at  this 
period.  In  twenty-five  years  from  the  present  time  the  United 
States  will  have  a  population  of  above  fifty  millions.  Not,  be 
it  noted,  a  population  like  that  of  Europe — namely,  one-third 
absolute  idlers  and  drones,  and  another  third  starving-  by  ill- 
paid  labor — but  a  population  the  whole  of  which  are  working 
as  if  their  lives  depended  on  their  exertions.  With  such  intense 
action,  such  marvelous  energy  and  enterprise,  such  powerful 
means  of  combination,  if  actuated  by  any  strong  excitement, 
they  wrill  become  morally  and  physically  irresistible.  It  be 
hoves  all  intelligent  lovers  of  their  country  to  be  prepared  for 
the  grand  result  to  which  every  American  confidently  looks  for 
ward  ;  a  result  that  must  follow  sooner  or  later  from  the  enor 
mously  increasing  wealth  and  power  of  the  great  Republic.  I 
allude  to  the  modification  of  the  old  forms  of  government,  and 
an  amelioration  of  the  social  evils  of  Europe. 

No  person  who  calmly  watches  the  working  and  progress  of 
this  wonderful  country,  can  avoid  the  conviction  that  the  above 
result  is  only  a  question  of  time.  Let.  then,  the  intelligence  of 
the  old  world  be  prepared  to  meet  that  which  no  earthly  power 
can  fend  ofF.  The  extreme  desire  of  every  American  to  preserve 
the  Federal  Union  is  a  remarkable  fact.  It  is  one  of  the  strong 
est  points  in  their  nationality,  and  renders,  for  some  time  to 
come,  the  maintenance  of  the  present  form  of  government  more 
certain  than  that  of  any  government  on  the  surface  of  the 
globe. 

An  English  literary  gentleman,  whose  works  are  known  and 
respected  wherever  civilization  extends,  has  given  the  following 
opinion  upon  the  United  States  of  America,  in  a  letter  to  one  of 
his  friends  in  London,  dated  <;  New  Haven,  Connecticut,  27th  of 


30  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


October,  1850."  I  agree  so  cordially  with  the  spirit  evinced  in 
this  passage,  that  I  can  not  help  transcribing  it. 

"  This  is  a.  very  wonderful  country  ;  and  no  Englishman  that 
I  know  of  has  done  justice  to  it ;  nor,  indeed,  do  the  Amer 
icans  do  justice  to  it  themselves.  We  all  think  that,  in  point 
of  polish,  and  the  accumulation  of  conveniences,  and  even  of  the 
conventionalities  which  grow  gradually  upon  old  lands,  this 
country,  only  two  centuries  and  a  half  old,  ought  to  be  on  a  par 
with  others  where  civilization  has  been  going  on  with  a  steady 
progress  for  more  than  treble  that  period  ;  and  wre  are  disap 
pointed  when  we  find  any  small  particular  deficient.  We  go  to 
see  a  new  building  and  are  surprised  that  we  do  not  find  Westmin 
ster  Abbey.  Then  we  abuse  it,  not  for  what  it  is,  but  for  what 

it  is  not.     But,  my  dear  0 ,  in  passing  through  this  land,  one 

sees  no  poverty,  no  squalid  wretchedness,  no  hovels  with  win 
dows  stopped  with  rags  and  old  hats.  Great  good-humor,  too 
is  visible  every  where  among  the  people  :  each  man  seems  to 
feel  that  by  industry  he  can  get  on  as  well  as  another ;  and 
each  is  willing  to  help  another.  There  is  little  of  that  jealous 
rivalry,  none  of  that  irritable  envy  that  we  see  in  older  lands, 
where  we  are  all  struggling  for  a  portion  of  that  bread  which  is 
not  sufficient  for  the  whole.  There  is  undoubtedly  an  eager 
craving  for  money.  It  is  not  only  the  whole  land  that  is 
making  its  way  upward,  but  every  individual  in  it.  Each  man 
is  encouraged  by  a  probable  hope  of  fortune,  and  each  man  seeks 
it  with  eagerness ;  but  every  one  holds  out  his  hand  to  the  one 
lower  than  himself  on  the  ladder,  and  tries  to  help  him  up  too. 
The  carping  at  small  faults  and  petty  annoyances  which  many 
of  our  countrymen  have  displayed,  and  the  overlooking  great 
advantages,  and  even  great  virtues,  shows  no  philosophical  spirit. 
The  things  I  mention  are  on  the  surface — open  to  every  eye  :  no 
poverty,  except  among  Irish  immigrants ;  general  good-humor 
and  good- will ;  a  wide  diffusion  of  education  ;  a  certainty  of 


NEW  YORK.  31 


industry  producing  competence,  and  of  industry  and  talent  ac 
quiring  fortune.  One  great  advantage  of  this  country  is,  that 
here  circumstances  are  comparatively  powerless  ;  that  they  can 
not  exercise  such  an  influence  upon  a  man's  fate  as  in  Europe  ; 
that  it  is  more  in  his  own  hands.  Doubtless  there  is  much  that 
I  object  to  ;  doubtless  there  is  much  which  may  and  will  be  im 
proved  ;  but,  depend  upon  it,  this  is  a  great  and  extraordinary 
country  ;  and  England  must  not  sit  still  contented,  if  she  would 
not  be  pushed  from  her  stool." 


CHAPTER  II. 

BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD. 

Huge  Dry  Dock — Men-of-war — Improvements  in  Gunnery,  as  carried  out  in 
Her  Hajesty's  Ship  "Excellent,"  immediately  known  in  America — The 
"Saranac"  and  "San  Jacinto" — Promotion  in  the  United  States  Navy 
— Discouraging  Prospects — Resignations  of  American  Naval  Officers — 
Abolition  of  corporal  Punishment  in  the  U.  S.  Navy — Its  Effects — High 
Character  of  American  Naval  Officers — Amazing  Progress  of  the  United 
States — Grain-elevator — Ferry-boats  from  New  York  to  Brooklyn,  &c., 
contrasted  with  the  Steam  Ferry  from  Portsmouth  to  Gosport — A  Launch 
of  three  huge  Vessels  in  one  Day  from  Webb's  Ship-building  Yard — 
The  Clipper-fever — Mr.  Steers  the  Ship-builder — Qualities  of  Clipper- 
ships — Vessels  built  by  Messrs.  Inma-n,  of  Lymington,  Hants — Amer 
ican  naval  Architecture  and  Rigging — Comparative  Performances  of  the 
four  great  Steam-ship  lines  between  New  York  and  Europe. 

THE  United  States  Navy-yard  at  Brooklyn,  a  suburb  of  New 
York,  is  the  second  in  importance  in  the  country.  It  is  situated 
on  Long  Island,  opposite  New  York,  and  at  present  occupies 
about  fifty  acres  of  land.  Like  all  things  in  this  wonderful 
nation,  both  public  and  private,  it  is  in  a  state  of  rapid  improve 
ment,  and  contains  perhaps  the  finest  dry  dock  in  the  world. 
This  beautiful  work  has  just  been  completed,  in  the  face  of  ex 
traordinary  difficulty  ;  the  foundation  having  to  be  secured  in  a 
shifting  quicksand.  The  dimensions  are,  length  three  hundred 
and  sixteen  feet ;  breadth  one  hundred  and  three  feet.  To  clear 
the  water  from  this  vast  basin,  a  huge  engine  is  in  preparation 
(since  completed),  and  is  calculated  to  draw  off  the  water  in 
three  hours. 


BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD.  33 

Several  fine  specimens  of  men-of-war  are  lying  here  ;  and  one 
is  on  the  stocks — the  "  Sabrina,"  forty-four.  This  vessel,  from 
some  unexplained  circumstances,  has  been  twenty-seven  years 
building,  without  any  immediate  chance  of  completion. 

A  magnificent  corvette,  the  "Gerrnantown,"  rated  as  twenty, 
but  carrying  twenty-four  guns,  deserves  some  description.  She 
carries  eighteen  thirty-two  pound  guns  of  forty-seven  cwt.  ;  and 
four  sixty-three  cwt.  eight-inch  guns.  As  all  the  recent  im 
provements  in  gunnery  carried  out  in  the  "  Excellent"  at  Ports 
mouth,  are  immediately  known  at  Washington,  she  has  the  ad 
vantage  of  them,  with  such  improvements  as  the  'cute  Yankee 
mind  might  suggest.  For  example,  the  gun-locks  are  simpler 
and  more  perfect  than  those  used  in  the  English  service.  We 
are  informed,  upon  unquestionable  authority,  that  no  new  imple 
ment  of  war  is  elaborated  in  England  without  being  immediately 
known  to  the  authorities  in  the  United  States  ;  and  we  are  told 
that  the  commission  of  naval  officers,  now  sitting  at  Washington 
to  re-organize  the  naval  ordnance  and  gunnery  exercise,  are 
assisted  materially  by  the  experience  of  men  educated  in  Her 
Majesty's  ship  "  Excellent." 

"  It  all  leaks  out,  I  guess,"  were  the  words  used  by  one  of 
the  most  intelligent  officers  in  the  American  navy  ;  and  there 
can  not  be  any  doubt  about  it. 

The  sisters,  "  Saranac"  and  "  San  Jacinto,"  are  models  of 
architectural  beauty.  The  "  San  Jacinto"  is  intended  for  a 
screw,  and  the  "  Saranac"  for  a  paddle-wheel  steamer.  These 
beautiful  vessels  are  one  thousand  five  hundred  tons  each,  two 
hundred  and  thirty-three  feet  over  all,  thirty-eight  feet  beam, 
and  seven  hundred  and  twenty  horse-power. 

The  armament  intended  for  the  "  San  Jacinto,"  rated  in  the 
navy  list  as  carrying  six  guns,  will  enable  her  to  cope  with 
almost  any  vessel  afloat.  She  is  to  carry  sixteen  broadside  eight- 
inch  guns,  fifty-seven  cwt.  each,  and  two  pivot  guns  weighing 

B* 


34  TOUR  JN  AMERICA. 


one  hundred  and  seven  cwt.,  forward  and  aft,  of  the  same 
calibre  as  the  broadside  guns ;  and  the  vessel  is  fitted  in  such  a 
manner  that  both  pivot  guns  can  be  used  at  either  extremity. 
The  crew  of  both  steamers  is  composed  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
men ;  and  four  hundred  tons  of  coal  can  be  stowed  under  hatches. 
At  full  power,  they  use  about  twenty-five  tons  a  day  ;  but,  by 
cutting  off  the  steam  and  working  by  expansion,  they  can  go 
ten  knots,  and  carry  fuel  for  thirty  days';  or  expending  fuel  at 
the  rate  of  about  fourteen  tons  a  day.  The  usual  speed  of  the 
paddle-wheel  steamer,  "  Saranac,"  is  from  twelve  to  fourteen 
knots.  As  the  engines  are  not  yet  fitted  to  the  "  San  Jacinto," 
the  speed  can  only  be  a  matter  of  guess.  The  American  officers, 
however,  are  very  sanguine  as  to  her  performance,  and  expect 
great  speed.  Each  vessel  carries  her  guns  twelve  feet  above  the 
deep  load  mark,  namely,  seventeen  feet. 

At  present,  the  "  Saranac"  mounts  only  six  guns ;  but  in  case 
of  active  service  has  room  for  six  more.  Since  her  experimental 
cruise,  she  has  been  fitted  with  a  light  "  hurricane-deck"  be 
tween  the  paddle-boxes,  of  which  the  American  naval  officers 
approve  extremely.  On.  the  top  of  this  deck  are  stowed  the 
hammocks  on  shelves  alongside  the  paddle-boxes.  This  expe 
dient  obviates  the  necessity  of  hammock-nettings,  and  permits  a 
light  movable  rail  to  surround  the  side. 

There  are  not  at  present  any  means  of  raising  the  screw  in 
the  "  San  Jacinto  ;"  but  no  doubt  this  will  soon  be  obviated. 

The  promotion  in  the  United  States  navy  being  strictly  by 
seniority,  it  can  not  be  denied  that,  as  a  body,  the  officers  have 
greater  experience  in  naval  affairs  than  those  of  the  same  grade 
in  the  English  service.  It  is  equally  clear,  however,  that  some 
change  must  take  place,  as  the  lists  are  getting  so  crowded,  that 
promotion  halts  lamentably.  Of  the  sixty-eight  captains,  the 
senior  has  been  fifty-two  years  in  the  service  ;  the  junior  thirty- 
nine. 


BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD.  35 

Commanders,  ninety-seven  in  number  ;  the  senior  thirty-nine 
years  ;  junior,  thirty-two  years. 

The  following  extract  from  the  Navy  Register  of  the  United 
States,  will  afford  some  interesting  information. 

"  The  number  of  lieutenants  allowed  by  law  is  three  hundred 
and  twenty-seven.  Of  these,  one  quarter  are  on  shore-duty  con 
nected  with  the  dock-yards,  shipping-rendezvous,  &c.  Three- 
eighths  afloat  on  foreign  stations  ;  and  about  the  same  number  on 
leave  or  waiting  orders  in  consequence  of  sickness  or  other  causes. 
The  number  of  masters  in  the  line  of  promotion  is  but  eleven  ; 
one-fifth  the  number  necessary  to  afford  one  to  each  vessel  in 
commission.  In  consequence  of  the  small  number  of  lieutenants, 
junior  officers  are  frequently  called  upon  to  perform  their  duties. 

"  In  the  Mexican  war,  a  midshipman  performed  the  duties  of 
executive  officer  of  a  sloop  of  war — the  number  of  lieutenants 
being  insufficient  to  answer  the  exigencies  of  a  sickly  climate. 
The  number  of  passed  midshipmen  is  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  ;  the  average  number  of  promotions  to  the  rank  of  lieuten 
ant  has  been  during  the  last  nine  years,  twelve  and  a  half  per 
year.  These  gentlemen  have  rather  discouraging  prospects  ;  the 
seniors  being  in  their  fourteenth  or  fifteenth  year  of  service.  By 
way  of  illustration,  let  us  take  those  standing  about  the  middle 
of  the  list,  and  who  entered  the  service  in  1841.  We  find  they 
can  not  be  lieutenants  for  nine  years  to  come ;  while  those  at  the 
bottom  of  the  list  are  unable  to  get  promotion  under  nineteen 
years.  Most  of  these  latter  gentlemen  have  already  served  ten 
years,  and  their  age  is  probably  about  twenty-six  ;  consequently, 
under  the  most  favorable  circumstances  they  must  be  (seniors) 
thirty-five,  and  (juniors)  forty-five,  before  they  are  lieutenants  ; 
the  last  year  serving  as  masters.  In  the  mean  time,  their  situa 
tion  is  a  trying  one,  neither  their  duties  or  position  being  defined. 
They  are  subject  to  many  vexations  and  annoyances,  as  their 
grade  is  not  settled  by  law  or  regulation.  This  condition  is  cal- 


36  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


culated  to  cause  discouragement  to  the  most  sanguine  tempera 
ment,  and  to  destroy  all  zeal  in  the  duties  of  a  profession  to 
which  they  have  devoted  the  best  years  of  their  lives. 

"  The  average  number  of  promotions,  during  the  last  nine 
years,  to  the  rank  of  commander,  have  been  only  five  per  year. 
As  the  majority  entered  at  fourteen  years  of  age,  the  officers  of 
this  rank  must  be  from  forty  five  to  fifty-three  years.  As  there 
are  ninety-eight  on  this  list,  the  juniors  can  hardly  expect  fur 
ther  promotion. 

"  If  we  take  the  liberal  allowance  of  fifty  per  cent  for  casual 
ties  in  the  lieutenants'  list,  the  past  mid.  may,  at  the  age  of 
eighty-one,  have  command  of  a  brig  or  corvette. 

"  The  youngest  lieutenants  of  the  present  day  are  older  men 
than  most  of  the  captains  in  the  war  of  1812.  Decatur,  when 
he  re-took  the  Philadelphia,  was  but  twenty-five  ;  and  when  the 
'  Macedonian'  was  captured,  but  thirty-three.  McDonough,  at 
the  time,  of  the  arictory  of  Lake  Champlain,  but  twenty-eight. 
Perry,  at  that  on  Lake  Erie,  twenty-eight.  Lawrence,  when  he 
took  the  '  Reindeer,'  was  but  thirty-three  ;  and  the  same  year 
he  fell,  in  command  of  the  '  Chesapeake.'  Can  there  be  a  doubt 
that  the  '  boy  officers'  of  the  war  of  1812,  were  quite  as  efficient 
as  the  old  men  of  the  present  day  ? 

"  Some  measures  of  reform  are  imperatively  called  for  to  re 
vive  the  drooping  esprit-de-corps,  and  to  place  in  responsible 
situations  men  who  are  in  possession  of  every  faculty  in  full 
vigor. 

"  We  shall  not  then  see,  among  other  anomalies,  gray-headed 
young  gentlemen,  who  say,  '  To  be  good  for  any  thing,  we 
should  have  been  promoted  years  ago.'  " 

From  the  above  data,  it  is  clear  that,  unless  some  comprehen 
sive  system  of  retirement  is  established,  very  few  of  the  lieuten 
ants  can  hope  to  gain  a  step.  This  slow  promotion  is  not  the 
only  disadvantage  against  which  the  United  States  Navy  has  to 


BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD.  37 

.intend.  Let  a  man  be  ever  so  active  and  distinguished — even 
Jet  him  make  the  most  gallant  and  successful  capture  against 
any  odds — he  can  not  get  promotion. 

The  chances  in  private  life  of  acquiring  wealth  and  positior 
in  society  are  so  great,  that  it  is  wonderful  how  the  country  ca'_ 
command  such  able  and  gifted  men  as  the  majority  of  the 
United  States  officers  undeniably  are.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
the  army  and  navy  are  not  only  considered  to  be,  but  are,  the 
aristocracy  of  the  country.  Still,  the  devotion  to  those  services 
is  a  heavy  price  for  an  untangible  advantage. 

From  June  the  1st,  1849,  to  the  end  of  the  year,  the  follow 
ing  resignations  took  place  in  the  United  States  navy  :  six  lieu 
tenants,  one  assistant  surgeon,  seven  passed  midshipmen,  thir 
teen  midshipmen,  two  boatswains,  one  gunner,  one  carpenter, 
one  sailrnaker,  eight  engineers,  one  navy-agent,  one  timber- 
agent.  Total,  forty-two  officers.  And  these  resignations,  be  it 
remembered,  took  place  with  an  amount  of  pay  considerably 
more  than  in  the  English  service. 

The  recent  order  to  abolish  corporal  punishment  in  the  United 
States  navy,  without  providing  any  substitute  for  the  purposes 
of  correction,  is  almost  universally  looked  upon  by  the  officers 
with  dismay.  It  is  riot  too  much  to  anticipate  some  frightful 
disaster — some  horrible  massacre — rendering  a  second  "  Som- 
ers"  example:  necessary.  As  a  slight  specimen  of  the  effect 
already  produced,  it  may  be  well  to  allude  to  what  happened  to 
a  large  frigate,  the  "  Constitution,"  which,  on  arriving  in  New 
York  Bay,  was  immediately  deserted  by  a  hundred  and  sixty  of 
her  crew.  As  these  men  had  upward  of  three  years'  pay  due, 
which  could  not  be  withheld,  and  knew  that  no  adequate  pun 
ishment  could  be  inflicted  in  the  few  days  that  would  terminate 
their  period  of  service,  they  became  quite  indifferent  to  disci 
pline.  The  outcry  against  corporal  punishment,  is  mainly  up 
held  by  persons  utterly  unacquainted  with  the  hard  necessities 


38  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


of  discipline.  Truth  was  distorted  to  prejudice  the  public  against 
bodily  punishment ;  and  the  number  of  lashes  inflicted  on  one 
of  the  crew  of  a  frigate  was  multiplied  by  nine  (the  number  of 
tails  to  the  cat),  to  excite  public  execration  against  it :  unhap 
pily,  with  too  much  success. 

The  officers  of  the  American  navy,  therefore,  have  a  very  dif 
ficult  game  to  play.  They  are  expected  to  keep  their  splendid 
ships  in  order,  without  adequate  means  of  coercing  the  crews. 

It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that,  as  a  body  of  men,  the  officers 
of  the  United  States  navy  are  second  to  none  ;  indeed,  it  would 
be  extremely  difficult  to  find  so  large  a  proportion  of  educated, 
enlightened,  and  well-informed  individuals  in  any  service.  The 
manners  and  customs  in  their  ships  are  precisely  the  same  as 
in  English  men-of-war  ;  and  their  kindness  and  cordiality  to 
Englishmen,  particularly  naval  officers,  is  extremely  pleasant. 
Long  may  this  continue  !  And  may  it  be  reciprocated  between 
the  two  nations. 

Among  the  numerous  officers  of  the  United  States  navy,  with 
whom  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  become  acquainted,  was  one  so 
remarkable  for  intellect  and  manly  candor,  that  it  was  impossi 
ble  not  to  like  him.  Two  days  before  my  departure,  he  was 
suddenly  called  to  his  last  home.  As  sepulture  is  immediate  in 
America,  the  funeral  ceremony  took  place  the  following  day,  and 
I  was  invited.  My  last  act  in  the  States  was  accordingly  one 
of  mourning.  It  was,  indeed,  a  touching  spectacle,  and  gave 
rise  to  grave  and  solemn  reflections  as  I  marched  up  the  aisle  of 
Calvary  Church  in  company  with  a  crowd  of  American  naval 
officers. 

An  unprejudiced  mind  can  not  avoid  being  struck  with  amaze 
ment  at  the  progress  of  the  United  States.  Whichever  way  the 
eye  is  cast  it  is  met  with  unmistakable  signs  of  rapid  progress 
and  improvement.  Magnificent  houses  rise  as  if  by  magic  ; 
mammoth  ocean-steamers  are  completed  with  astonishing  ce- 


BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD.  39 

lerity  ;  their  sharp  entrance  through  the  water  giving  convincing 
testimony  of  their  prodigious  speed.  River-boats,  nearly  four 
hundred  feet  long,  appear  to  glide  like  meteors  on  the  surface  of 
the  Hudson  and  East  river.  Place  one  of  these  on  end  along 
side  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  and  its  foremost  extremity  would 
nearly  reach  the  noted  ball  and  cross  !  The  first  object  of  inter 
est  was  a  large  ship,  which  was  being  loaded  with  wheat  for 
Europe.  To'  accelerate  the  introduction  of  the  cargo,  a  grain- 
elevator  was  employed.  This  novel  machine  pumped  the  grain 
from  barges,  or  canal-boats  on  one  side,  in  a  continuous  stream 
into  the  ship's  hold  at  the  rate  of  two  thousand  bushels  per  hour. 
It  was  not  only  passed  into  the  vessel  at  this  prodigious  rate,  but 
likewise  accurately  measured  in  the  operation.  American  naval 
officers  have  taken  a  hint  from  this  ingenious  labor-saving  con 
trivance,  and  successfully  adapted  it  to  the  purpose  of  supplying 
powder  with  great  speed  and  regularity  to  the  batteries  of  large 
ships  ;  thereby  saving  numerous  hands  that  could  be  better  em 
ployed  in  the  other  parts  of  the  vessel. 

What  are  those  huge  castles  rushing  madly  across  the  East 
river  ?  I  see  at  one  time  five  steam  ferry-boats  wafting  carriages 
and  passengers  from  New  York  to  Brooklyn,  "Williamsburg,  &c. 
Let  us  cross  in  the  "  Montauk"  from  Fulton  ferry  and  survey  the 
freight.  There  are  fourteen  carriages  ;  and  the  passengers  are 
countless,  at  least  six  hundred.  Heavens,  what  a  pace  she  rushes 
over  !  her  powerful  engines  vibrate  to  one's  very  marrow.  On 
ward  she  darts  at  headlong  speed,  until,  apparently  in  perilous 
proximity  to  her  wharf,  a  frightful  collision  appears  inevitable. 
The  impatient  Yankees,  heaven  help  them  !  crowd,  and  press, 
and  struggle  to  get  to  the  extreme  edge  of  the  vessel,  and  be  the 
first  to  jump  ashore.  On  the  wharf  is  a  dense  crowd  more  im 
patient,  if  possible,  to  jump  aboard.  Forward  dashes  the  vessel, 
while  the  uninitiated  quake  with  apprehension  at  the  horrid  crash 
which  seems  inevitable. 


40  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


A  loud  "  twang"  is  suddenly  heard,  and  then  a  hell.  The 
powerful  engine  is  quickly  reversed,  and  the  way  of  the  vessel 
so  instantaneously  stopped,  that  the  dense  mass  of  passengers 
insensibly  lean  forward  from  the  sudden  check.  Before  she  is 
secured,  an  avalanche  of  jumpers  have  crossed  one  another, 
penetrating  with  a  rush  the  crowd  of  passengers  on  board,  and 
the  expectant  passengers  on  the  wharf. 

Accidents  frequently  happen,  and  lives  are  sometimes  lost ; 
but  certainly  no  blame  attaches  to  the  boats,  as  they  are  handled 
in  the  most  careful  and  masterly  style. 

The  "Montauk,"  "Manhattan,''  and  ''Bedford,"  are  the  ves 
sels  now  \vorking  on  the  Fulton  ferry.  They  are  admirably  fitted 
with  light,  airy,  and  warm  rooms  for  passengers,  each  passenger 
having  a  partitioned  seat.  A  large  cabin  is  set  apart  for  ladies, 
another  for  gentlemen,  who  smoke  there  if  they  please.  The 
fare,  one  cent  (a  halfpenny).  I  have  been  told  that  these  boats 
cost  about  30,000  dollars  ;  equal,  in  round  figures,  to  £6,000. 
In  economy,  beauty,  commodiousness,  and  speed,  they  form  a 
striking  contrast  to  the  steam-ferry  from  Portsmouth  to  Gosport ; 
as  it  has  been  stated  that  the  latter  cost  £20,000,  or  100,000 
dollars. 

The  author  strongly  advises  persons  in  Europe,  who  have  any 
intention  of  projecting  steam-ferries,  to  take  a  leaf  out  of  the 
Yankee  book.  As  an  example  :  if  the  Portsmouth  ferry  had  been 
conducted  on  the  same  principles  as  the  Fulton  ferry,  a  very  large 
profit  would  have  ensued,  instead  of  the  concern  being  over 
whelmed  in  debt ;  and  the  inhabitants  of  Portsmouth  and  Gos 
port  would  have  had  something  to  be  proud  of,  in  lieu  of  a  mis 
erable  and  clumsy  abortion. 

Let  us  now  take  an  example  of  Yankee  go-aheadism.  We 
will  depart  from  the  Union  Place  Hotel,  and  march  down  Sev 
enth-street.  Long  before  we  arrive  at  the  East  River,  we  per 
ceive  tall  and  tapering  spars,  extending  far  above  the  houses. 


BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD.  41 

Streamers  and  flags  are  abundant ;  but  above  all,  and  eclipsing 
all,  are  numerous  magnificent  "  star-spangled  banners." 

A  launch  is  about  to  take  place. 

Open  your  ears,  0  ye  John  Bulls  !  Listen  to  the  truth  from  a 
brother  Bull.  "  Read,  mark,  learn,  and  inwardly  digest." 

We  are  now  in  Webb's  ship-building  yard.  Look  around — five 
huge  vessels  are  on  the  stocks ;  three  are  to  be  launched  at  high- 
water.  Let  us  examine  them. 

First,  the  "  Isaac  Bell,"  of  1708  tons,  is  intended  for  a  Havre 
liner.  She  is  built  for  running,  and,  with  a  fair  wind,  will  out 
sail  any  man-of-war  afloat. 

Second,  a  steamer,  the  "  Illinois,"  of  2500  tons.  So  sharp  is 
she  from  the  cutwater,  that  it  involuntarily  suggests  the  same 
painful  idea  to  the  mind  as  on  first  beholding  Langham  Church 
steeple,  in  Portland  Place,  London.  Her  midship  section  is  per 
fectly  flat,  which  causes  an  unsightly  protuberance  amidships, 
that  offends  the  eye  when  looking  along  the  bottom.  Like  most 
of  Brother  Jonathan's  sea-steamers,  she  does  not  come  up  to  John 
Bull's  idea  of  sufficient  strength  of  construction  ;  still,  every  fair 
and  unprejudiced  Britisher  must  allow  that,  for  models,  the 
Yankees,  as  they  express  it,  -"whip  the  world."  They  do  not, 
however,  build  their  sea-steamers  strong  enough.  The  reason  is 
obvious  :  hitherto  their  experience  has  been  mainly  with  river- 
boats  ;  and  although  they  have  some  of  the  finest-looking  craft 
of  this  denomination  ever  seen,  many  of  them  are  utterly  unsafe 
and  unsound.  The  lighter  a  river  steamer  is  built,  the  faster 
she  will  go  ;  the  less  water  she  will  draw ;  and  it  is  a  notorious 
saying,  in  reference  to  certain  boats  on  the  Mississippi,  "  the  en 
gines  are  intended  to  wear  out  three  hulls,  if  the  vessel  don't 
blow  up." 

This  impeachment  of  American  judgment  will  not  last  long. 
Brother  Jonathan  has  received  a  warning  which  he  is  not  the 
man  to  neglect ;  arid  we  may  confidently  look  forward  to  his 


42  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


producing  sea-steamers  as  stable  and  fast  as,  if  not  faster  than, 
any  that  can  elsewhere  be  built. 

Go  ahead,  brother — go  ahead  !  You  are  the  greatest  bene 
factor  your  old  mother  ever  had.  The  venerable  lady  begins  to 
discover  that  "  she  doesn't  know  you're  out." 

Third,  the  "  Gazelle,"  a  gigantic  yacht,  of  1500  tons.  She  is 
nearly  as  sharp  as  any  yacht  in  England  ;  slightly  fuller  in  the 
midship  section.  Her  model  is  perfectly  beautiful. 

Here  is  a  launch  indeed  ;  and  by  one  builder  ! 

At  a  quarter  before  twelve  o'clock,  January  21,  1851,  the 
dogs-shores  of  the  mammoth  steamer,  "  Illinois,"  were  knocked 
away.  In  a  few  seconds,  she  glided  majestically  into  the  East 
River  (properly  Long  Island  Sound),  amidst  the  exultant  shouts 
of  many  thousands.  After  a  short  interval,  the  "  Isaac  Bell" 
followed  her  example  ;  and,  lastly,  the  enormous  yacht,  "  Ga 
zelle,"  was  sent  gliding  beautifully  into  her  element.  Never, 
probably,  has  such  a  launch  happened  in  one  day  ;  most  certainly 
not  from  the  yard  of  one  constructor. 

Read  the  tonnage  again,  John  Bull ;  and  mind,  it  is  no  fable. 
Five  thousand  seven  hundred  and  eight  tons  were  launched  from 
one  builder,  and  within  thirty  minutes  ! 

Since  the  above  was  written,  the  clipper  fever  in  the  United 
States  is  quite  over ;  and  well  it  may  be.  If  we  only  take  the 
result  of  two  years'  trial  of  perhaps  the  most  successful  clipper 
in  the  States  (the  "  N.  B.  Palmer"),  we  shall  have  most  lament 
able  results. 

This  magnificent  clipper  earned  an  immense  freight  between 
New  York  and  California.  She  then  proceeded  to  China,  and 
was  chartered  to  London  and  back  for  £6  10s.  a  ton.  These 
voyages  will  take  about  twenty  months  or  two  years.  The  own 
ers  do  not  expect  to  net  more  than  25,000  dollars  (£5000).  This 
will  not  by  any  means  pay  for  wear  and  tear. 

I  ivas  much  struck  at  perceiving  two  vessels  lying  side  by  side 


BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD.  43 


at  a  wharf.  They  were  both  ready  to  discharge  cargoes  of  teas 
from  China.  One  was  a  clipper,  and  had  been  a  considerable 
time  in  the  port ;  the  other  was  a  round-bottomed,  old-fashioned 
Boston  vessel.  Although  the  clipper  had  distanced  the  Boston 
craft  eighteen  days,  the  latter  began  to  discharge  her  cargo  first. 
Moreover,  the  Boston  vessel  carried  a  cargo  three  times  greater, 
in  proportion  to  her  tonnage,  than  the  clipper,  at  about  one  third 
the  expense.  I  venture  to  predict  that  few  clippers  will  be  built 
for  the  future,  unless  any  great  improvement  in  build  and  speed 
be  discovered,  which  is  likely  to  take  place  in  consequence  of  the 
great  success  of  the  "  America"  yacht. 

Mr.  Steers,  the  intelligent  builder  of  the  latter  vessel,  is  about 
laying  down  a  clipper  of  2000  tons.  The  estimated  size  is  as 
follows  :  length  233ft.,  breadth  48ft.,  and  she  is  to  draw,  when 
deep,  20  ft.  Mr.  Steers  is  very  sanguine  that  he  will  produce  a 
faster  vessel  than  has  yet  plowed  the  seas.  He  expects  that,  if 
allowed  to  "  pick  his  time"  within  six  months,  the  new  clipper 
will  achieve  a  speed  of  eighteen  miles  an  hour.  From  what  I 
have  seen  of  this  model,  I  am  inclined  to  agree  with  his  sanguine 
expectations.  This  vessel  will  stow  as  much  as,  or  more  than  any 
clipper  proper  afloat,  and  will,  no  doubt,  be  as  superior  to  them 
all  in  sailing  as  the  "  America"  yacht  was  to  the  English  yachts, 
which,  by  the  way,  are  the  prototypes  of  the  Yankee  clipper- 
ships.  If  such  turns  out  to  be  the  case  (of  which  I  have  little 
doubt),  the  first  of  these  clippers  will,  I  hope,  make  a  better  thing 
of  it  than  the  "  N.  B.  Palmer." 

The  ship  yards  in  New  York  show  a  striking  contrast  to  the 
activity  prevalent  in  them  a  year  ago.  They  are  now  compar 
atively  deserted.  I  have  been  informed  by  a  large  ship-owner 
that  timber  is  30  per  cent  cheaper,  and  wages  materially  lower 
than  a  year  ago.  In  fact,  the  market  for  the  sharp  and  expen 
sive  "clipper  proper"  is  overstocked;  and  it  is  the  opinion  of 
experienced  men  in  the  States,  that,  unless  some  new  and  pow- 


44  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


erful  impulse  is  given  to  trade,  two  thirds  of  the  clippers  will 
lose  money. 

The  clipper-ships,  although  certainly  the  finest  class  of  vessels 
afloat  are  very  uneasy  in  a  sea.  They  are  likewise  said  to  strain 
violently,  and  from  this  cause  make  water,  and  damage  their 
cargo.  If  a  class  of  clipper-vessels,  such  as  Mr.  Steers  proposes, 
is  built,  they  will  be  as  much  superior  in  sailing  as  easy  in  their 
motion,  arid  will  thus  secure  so  great  an  advantage  that  they 
must  completely  distance  the  old  clippers  in  all  respects.  The 
yacht  "  America''  is  superior  on  these  points,  as  well  as  in  every 
respect,  to  the  English  yachts,  which  are  excessively  uneasy 
in  a  sea,  and  draw  an  inconvenient  draft  of  water.  The  great 
merit  of  Mr.  Steers,  as  the  builder  of  the  '  America,'  is,  in  his 
having  invented  a  perfectly  original  model,  as  new  in  America 
as  in  Europe.  In  some  of  the  long  conversations  I  have  had 
with  him,  he  informed  me  that  this  idea,  so  successfully  car 
ried  out  in  the  "  America's"  model,  struck  him  when  a  boy  of 
eight  years  old.  He  was  looking  on  at  the  moulding  of  a  ves 
sel  by  his  father  (an  Englishman),  when  suddenly  it  occurred  to 
him  that  a  great  improvement  might  be  made  in  the  con 
struction  ;  and  the  modus  operandi  speedily  took  possession  of 
his  mind. 

The  first  vessels  he  constructed  on  the  full  extent  of  his  im 
proved  lines  were  the  pilot  boats,  "  Moses  Grinriell"  and  "  Mary 
Taylor  ,"  and  it  is  my  deliberate  opinion  that  the  "  Cornelia" 
yacht,  or  either  of  these  vessels,  though  under  a  hundred  tons, 
are  more  than  a  match  for  any  yacht  in  England 

Mr.  Steers  thinks  that  a  shallow  vessel,  with  a  sliding  keel, 
can  be  built  to  out-sail  any  vessel  even,  on  his  improved  model. 
This  is  likely  to  be  tested  next  summer  in  England,  as  a  sloop, 
the  "  Silvia,"  built  by  Steers  on  this  construction,  is  preparing  to 
try  her  speed  at  Cowes  next  season.  I  carefully  noted  this  craft 
when  on  the  stocks  alongside  the  "America,"  and  I  believe  that 


BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD.  45 

no  vessel  in  England  has  the  ghost  of  a  chance  against  her. 
Next  year  will,  however,  decide  the  question. 

England  is  not  likely  to  remain  long  behind  Brother  Jonathan 
in  yachting,  as  the  following  list  of  vessels,  building  at  the  justly 
celebrated  Messrs.  Inman,  of  Lymington,  will  plainly  prove. 

First,  the  "  Alarm  "  is  lengthened  twenty  feet,  with  the  Amer 
ican,  or  wave-line  bow.  She  will  be  schooner-rigged,  and  of  the 
burden  of  240  tons. 

Second,  two  schooners,  about  75  tons  each. 

Third,  a  very  beautiful  schooner  of  150  tons.  The  Messrs. 
Inman  have  taken  time  by  the  forelock,  and  are  more  open- 
minded  than  the  builders  of  this  country  usually  are.  I  have 
carefully  examined  these  vessels,  and  plainly  perceive  evidence 
of  great  genius  and  artistic  skill.  They  will  be  formidable 
rivals  to  any  yachts  that  Brother  Jonathan  may  in  future  send 
over  the  Atlantic. 

American  naval  architecture  is,  without  doubt,  very  admira 
ble,  whether  we^take  the  sailing  qualities  of  their  vessels,  or 
their  symmetry  of  form.  I  spent  some  days  at  Baltimore,  care 
fully  examining  the  different  varieties  of  clippers.  On  one  oc 
casion,  I  observed  a  group  of  these  fine  models  surrounding  an 
English  coaster.  The  contrast  in  proportion  was  most  marked. 
The  hideous  English  coaster,  surrounded  thus,  was  like  "  a  young 
donkey  grazing  amidst  a  herd  of  gazelles." 

The  English  ship-builders  have  a  great  deal  to  learn  from 
Brother  Jonathan,  not  only  in  the  fashion  of  build,  but  likewise 
in  the  "  fitting  and  rigging."  The  modern-built  American  ves 
sels  are  infinitely  better  fitted  and  ventilated  than  any  British 
ships  which  have  come  under  my  notice.  The  Americans  speak 
very  highly  of  some  ships  constructed  by  Green  and  Wigram, 
which  I  have  not  had  an  opportunity  of  examining. 

An  American  London  liner  is  sailed  with  half  the  number 
of  men  required  by  an  English  ship  of  the  same  size ;  and  yet 


46  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

the  work  is  got  through  as  well  and  as  expeditiously.  The  vari 
ous  mechanical  contrivances  to  save  labor  might  be  beneficially 
copied  by  English  ships.  For  example,  "  gipsies,"  or  small 
windlasses,  and  the  large  "  gipsy,"  or  chain-lifter.  This  very 
useful  mechanical  help  enables  three  men  to  manage,  and  easily 
haul  on  deck,  a  huge  chain-cable  of  the  largest  size. 

The  system  of  lower-rigging,  likewise,  I  think  a  great  im 
provement.  When  an  American  ship  is  first  rigged,  the  lower 
rigging  is  much  larger  and  stronger  than  is  usual  in  England. 
It  is,  however,  intended  and  expected  to  last  without  lifting,  as 
long  as  the  ship  retains  a  first  class  letter  on  the  commercial 
list.  This  saves  time  and  labor,  and  is  found  to  succeed  ad 
mirably. 

The  following  is  a  condensed  report  of  the  performances  of  the 
four  great  steamship  lines  between  New  York  and  Europe.  In 
comparing  the  average  trips  of  the  two  main  lines,  namely, 
Collins  and  Cunard,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  latter  are  ahead  of 
their  opponents  on  the  eastern  passages  by  about  two  hours  ;  but 
the  former  (Collins)  more  than  make  it  up  on  the  western 
passages,  their  trips  having  been  accomplished  in  fifteen  hours 
less  than  their  competitors.  The  eastern  passages  of  the  Havre 
line  to  Cowes  average  rather  more  than  a  day  longer  than  the 
Liverpool  lines.  They  are  also  on  the  western  passages  twenty- 
three  hours  longer  than  the  Collins  line  ;  but  only  eight  hours 
behind  the  Cunarders. 

The  trips  of  the  Bremen  steamers,  both  east  and  west,  have 
been  rather  longer,  having  made  only  one  trip  in  twelve  days 
during  the  whole  year. 

COLLINS  line  (eastern  passages).     Total  time  of  twenty-      Hours.  Min.  Sec. 
four  passages r .  . .  .        267        6     30 

Days.  Hours.  Min. 
Average  time  each  passage .......................          11        3     16 


BROOKLYN  DOCK-YARD  47 


Hours.  Min.  Sec. 
Western  passages.     Total  time  of  twenty-five  passages .        288      17      55 

Days.  Hours.  Min. 
Average  time  each  passage 11      13      12 


CUNARD  line  (eastern  passages) .      Total  time  of  twenty-       Hours.  Min.  Sec. 
one   passages 243        8      15 

Days.  Hours.  Min. 
Average  time  each  passage 11        1      26 

Western    passages.      Total    time    of   twenty-three   pas-      Hours.  Min.  Sec. 
sages 279     23      10 

Days.  Min.  Sec 
Average  time  of  each  passage , 12        5        1 


HAVRE  line  (eastern  passages) .     Total  time  of  eleven  pas-      Hours.  Min.  Sec. 
sages 135       8     30 

Days.  Hours.  Min. 
Average  time  each  passage 12        7      18 

Hours.  Min.  Sec. 
Western  passages.     Total  time  of  eleven  passages.  ...         137      14     25 

Days.  Hours.  Min. 
Average  time  each  passage 12      12      13 


BREMEN  line  (eastern  passages).     Total  time  often  pas-      Hours.  Min.  Sec. 
sages 144      19        0 

Days.  Hours.  Min. 
Average  time  each  passage 14      11      33 

Hours.  Min.  Sec. 
Western  passages.      Total  time  of  ten  passages 146      17      30 

Days.  Hours.  Min. 
Average  time  each  passage 14      16      10 

The  following  table  shows  at  once  the  average  time  of  each 
line  for  the  year, 


48 


TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


EASTERN   PASSAGES   TO    EUROPE. 

Days.   Hours.  Min. 

Collins  line 11          3        16 

Cunard  line 11  1         28 

Havre  line    12          7        19 

Bremen  line.  .  14        11        30 


WESTERN    PASSAGES   TO    NEW   YORK. 


Collins  line  . 
Cunard  line  . 
Havre  line  . 
Bremen  line. 


Days.   Hours. 

11  13 

12  4 
12       12 
14        16 


Min. 

12 

8 

13 
10 


To  this  we  will  add  the  average  passage  of  sailing-ships  be 
tween  Liverpool  arid  New  York.  Bearing  in  mind  that  from  the 
wonderful  improvement  in  marine  architecture  (wholly  due  to 
"Brother  Jonathan"),  the  passages  both  ways  are  gradually 
shortening,  as  the  model  of  hull  improves,  and  the  education  and 
science  of  the  officers  increases. 


Eastern  passages          Days.  Hours 
(average  of  all) 32      12 


Western  passages          Days.  Hours, 
(average  of  all) .  .  22       12 


CHAPTER  III. 

PHILADELPHIA. 

Uninteresting  Road — Immense  Orchards  of  standard  Peach-trees — Lank 
and  meagre  Woods — Philadelphia — The  Water-works — Fairmount — A 
Boarding-house  for  Pigs — Overland  Transport  of  large  Boats,  with  their 
Freights,  in  Sections — School  System  of  Philadelphia — Enormous  Con 
sumption  of  Paper  by  ten  Newspapers  in  the  United  States — The  Dock 
yard  in  Philadelphia — The  Sectional  Dock — Journey  to  Baltimore — 
Railroad  Carriages — Ingenious  Scheme  of  General  Green. 

THE  journey  by  rail  from  New  York  toward  Washington  is 
flat,  and  destitute  of  any  feature  of  interest,  except  the  immense 
orchards  of  standard  peach-trees,  which  are  pruned  and  kept  in 
excellent  order.  The  trees  are  generally  renewed  every  five 
years,  as  the  fruit  is  supposed  to  degenerate  after  that  age. 

Occasionally,  lank  and  meagre  woods  are  passed,  forming  a 
strong  contrast  to  the  clear  and  well  arranged  peach-trees,  and 
having  beneath  them  a  growth  of  underwood,  principally  com 
posed  of  rhododendrons,  which,  however,  are  far  inferior,  in  size 
of  leaves  and  luxuriance,  to  their  congeners  in  England  ;  proba 
bly  from  want  of  care  and  cultivation. 

Philadelphia,  although  abounding  in  beautiful  buildings,  does 
not  "  show  forth"  to  much  advantage;  a  defect  mainly  attribu 
table  to  its  site,  which  is  nearly  flat.  The  population  of  this 
city,  in  1840,  numbered  300,000,  and  has  increased  in  ten 
years  to  412,000,  an  increase  chiefly  attributable  to  the  demand 
for  hands  in  the  manufacturing  establishments,  as  the  foreign 
trade  of  Philadelphia  has  fallen  off. 

C 


50  TOTIH  IN  AMERICA. 


The  water-works,  which  give  an  ample  supply  to  the  town, 
are  formed  by  a  dam  on  the  river  Schuylkill,  which  raises  the 
river  fifteen  feet.  A  portion  of  the  stream  thus  confined,  is 
allowed  to  escape  on  several  powerful  water-wheels,  which  re 
volving  rapidly,  pump  up  the  needful  supply  into  an  immense 
elevated  reservoir.  The  simplicity  and  great  power  of  this  con 
trivance  is  ohvious  to  the  slowest  comprehension.  From  Fair- 
mount,  a  very  fine  prospect  is  revealed  to  the  gazer's  eye.  I 
was  wrapped  in  a  mantle  of  pleasant  ideas,  on  beholding  this 
fair  and  beautiful  scenery,  when  my  brown  study  was  abruptly 
disturbed  by  my  companion — one  of  the  kindly  Yankees  I  had 
the  good  fortune  to  convert  into  friends  during  my  sojourn  in  the 
States. 

"  Do  you  see  that  large,  many-storied  house  ?"  inquired  he. 

"  Yes,"  I  replied.  "  Who  could  help  taking  notice  of  so  huge 
a  pile  of  building  ?" 

"  Well,"  continued  he,  "  there  is  a  story  attached  to  that  house, 
which  gives  a  good  example  of  Yankee  'cuteness.' 

"  Let  me  hear  it,  by  all  means,"  returned  I. 

Seating  himself  on  a  large  stone,  he  related  the  following  story, 
which  I  give  verbatim. 

"  Some  years  ago,  a  'cute  Yankee  rented  that  house,  arid  set 
up  a  distillery.  After  a  year  or  two  he  became  dissatisfied  with 
his  profits,  which  did  not  exceed  ten  per  cent.  This  he  regarded 
as  a  very  poor  return,  hardly  worth  consideration.  So  many 
others  were  engaged  in  the  same  trade,  and  so  much  competition 
existed,  that  he  clearly  perceived  his  gains  were  more  likely  to 
diminish  than  to  increase. 

"  After  considerable  reflection,  he  determined  to  lower  the 
price  of  his  whisky,  and  set  up  '  a  pigs'  boarding-house  !'  Ac 
cordingly,  he  commenced  advertising  to  take  pigs  in  at  a  certain 
price.  As  his  terms  were  considerably  less  than  the  swine  cost 
their  owners,  he  was  speedily  overrun  with  boarders.  The  im- 


PHILADELPHIA  51 


mense  quantity  of  grains  produced  by  his  increase  of  business, 
consequent  on  his  reduction  of  the  price  of  whisky,  enabled  him 
to  make  his  boarding-house  a  mine  of  wealth. 

"  His  arrangements  were  capital.  Squeakers,  he  placed  in  the 
garret  ;  porkers,  next  floor  ;  and  so  on  downward,  until  his  prem 
ises  round  the  base  of  the  house  were  swarming  with  magnificent 
grunters. 

"  Money  came  in  apace;  and  fame  soon  followed.  In  a  few 
years  he  had  amassed  a  considerable  sum,  and  his  business  had 
increased  so  much,  that  he  had  several  acres  of  pig-styes,  filled 
with  fat  and  contented  grunters.  Alas,  for  all  porcine  greatness  ! 
The  horrible  odor  of  his  boarders  became  unbearable.  The 
neighbors  grumbled ;  then  loudly  complained  ;  and  lastly,  flew 
into  violent  rage.  Our  enterprising  pig-boarder  was  indicted  for 
a  nuisance.  His  enemies  prevailed,  and  this  unique  and  luxu 
rious  establishment  was  broken  up  forever. 

"  He  had,  however,  cleared  a  large  fortune." 

My  friend  having  finished  his  narrative,  we  returned  on  foot 
toward  the  city.  On  passing  down  Broad-street,  my  attention 
was  attracted  by  the  figure  of  a  man  smoking  his  pipe,  and  ap 
parently  looking  out  of  the  stern  windows  of  a  decked  vessel. 

"  Hallo  !"  exclaimed  I,  "  what  can  that  craft  be  doing  on 
land  ?  Why,  her  stern  is  toward  the  wharf." 

On  approaching  nearer,  I  perceived  that  it  was  the  stern  sec 
tion  of  a  canal-boat.  Three  other  sections  were  also  there,  all 
mounted  on  trucks,  ready  to  start,  per  rail,  on  their  journey,  to 
Pittsburg.  The  vessel  was  one  hundred  feet  long,  and  nine  wide, 
divided  into  four  nearly  equal  sections ;  the  bow  and  stern  being 
slightly  longer  than  the  midship  section,  in  consequence  of  the 
fineness  of  run.  These  divided  compartments  are  loaded  with 
emigrants  and  with  goods  manufactured  in  Philadelphia,  the 
latter  of  which  are  forwarded,  without  breaking  bulk,  three  hun 
dred  and  sixty  miles.  The  first  hundred  miles,  they  are  con- 


52  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


veyed  by  rail  through.  Lancaster  to  the  Susquehanna ;  thence  to 
a  spur  of  the  Alleghanies.  An  inclined  plane  now  takes  hold  of 
the  sections  separately,  with  all  their  freight,  and  transports  them 
over  a  considerable  elevation,  the  greatest  height  of  which  is  fif 
teen  hundred  feet.  Then,  crossing  the  mountain-range,  they  are 
launched  peaceably  into  a  canal,  and  again  united  ;  and  after 
being  tracked  or  towed  another  hundred  miles,  are  safely  de 
posited  in  the  town  of  Pittsburg. 

Here  is  another  specimen  of  the  "  go-ahead"  system  of  Brother 
Jonathan.  These  full-freighted  vessels  are  transported  several 
hundred  miles  overJand,  including  two  ranges  of  mountains. 

There  are  numerous  objects  besides  the  above,  of  great  interest 
in  Philadelphia  ;  but,  as  neither  time  nor  space  is  afforded  to 
chronicle  one-tenth  of  them,  I  must  unwillingly  pass  them  over. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  and  admirable  objects,  is  the 
school-system  of  Philadelphia,  which  is  deservedly  considered 
among  the  best  in  the  world.  The  number  and  designation  of 
the  several  establishments  are  as  follows  :  one  high  school,  one 
normal  school,  fifty-three  grammar  schools,  twenty-nine  secondary, 
one  hundred  and  thirty  primary,  and  forty  unclassified.  Total, 
two  hundred  and  fifty.  In  these,  there  are  45,383  students. 
And  be  it  remembered  that,  with  moderate  abilities  and  per 
severance,  any  student  can  gain  access  to  the  high  school,  where 
the  system  of  education  is  above  all  praise,  and  very  far  superior 
to  any  college  of  which  I  have  ever  heard. 

By  the  polite  attention  of  Professor  Hart,  I  was  enabled  to  ex 
amine  thoroughly  the  different  classes.  I  can  not  sufficiently 
express  my  admiration  of  the  proficiency  of  the  pupils,  particu 
larly  in  the  classes  of  anatomy  and  physiology  under  Professor 
McMurtrie,  every  student  in  which  appeared  to  be  thoroughly 
conversant  with  the  structure  of  the  human  frame.  All  thai. 
choose  can  enjoy  gratuitously  the  advantage  of  this  or  any  other 
class. 


PHILADELPHIA.  53 


The  High  School  has  eleven  professors,  of  whom  Mr.  Hart  is 
the  head.  These  gentlemen  give  instructions  in  every  branch  of 
education,  embracing  languages  and  spherical  trigonometry.  I 
was  rnudh  edified  to  hear  boys,  of  thirteen  years  old,  answering 
questions  with  ease,  that  few  grown  persons  under  the  old  sys 
tem  of  education  would  understand,  or  even  dream  of  under 
standing. 

To  what  an  elevating  effect  must  this  admirable  system  of 
education  lead  !  Here  are  45,383  young  persons  (upward  of  nine 
per  cent,  of  the  population  of  Philadelphia,  namely,  415,000) 
receiving  a  first-rate  education.  As  a  still  stronger  proof  of  the 
advantages  thus  derived,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  five  daily  and 
five  weekly  journals  in  the  United  States  consume  alone  nearly  as 
much  paper  as  all  the  journals  in  Great  Britain  put  together, 
according  to  the  American  report,  which  asserts  that  all  the  paper 
used  by  the  public  prints  in  England  amounts  to  175,000  reams 
per  annum.  In  the  United  States,  the  "  New  York  Herald," 
*'  Tribune,"  and  "  Sun  ;"  the  "  Philadelphia  Sun,"  and  "  Balti 
more  Sun,"  and  five  weekly  papers,  use  136,000  reams.  There 
are  at  present  in  the  United  States  2500  newspapers,  and  they 
are  increasing  at  the  rate  of  60  or  70  per  annum. 

It  is  impossible  for  a  seaman  to  leave  any  maritime  city  with 
out  a  glance  at  its  naval  establishments.  The  United  States 
Dock-yard  in  Philadelphia  is  of  minor  importance,  as  compared 
with  those  of  New  York  or  Boston.  It  covers  a  surface  of  thirty- 
two  acres,  and  has  a  frontage  of  a  few  hundred  yards  on  the 
Delaware  River. 

The  only  object  of  interest  herein  is  the  sectional  dock.  This 
vast  fabric  (one  hundred  yards  long,  and  fifty  wide)  is  divided 
into  several  sections,  each  of  which  is  of  eight  hundred  tons 
burthen.  The  whole  is  of  enormous  size  ;  certainly  the  largest 
in  the  world,  being  nearly  eight  thousand  tons  capacity.  It  is 
calculated  that  the  largest  ship  ever  built  can  be  raised  with 


54  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


ease.  In  spite  of  the  stupendous  character  and  magnificent  pro 
portions  of  this  gigantic  work,  I  can  not  congratulate  Uncle  Sam 
upon  its  utility  or  economy.  There  is  quite  sufficient  depth  of 
water  to  construct  a  stone  dry-dock,  and  it  is  calculated  that  the 
expense  would  be  little,  if  any,  more  than  that  of  the  sectional 
dock.  When  the  enormous  cost  necessary  to  keep  this  huge 
wooden  structure  in  repair  is  considered,  I  think  Uncle  Sam 
will  have  to  pay  very  dear  for  his  whistle.  It  is  not  too  much 
to  assert  that,  in  ten  years,  the  present  dock  will  require  re 
pairs,  more  than  equivalent  to  the  first  outlay  ;  whereas,  a  sub 
stantial  stone  structure  would  last  for  years,  without  any  renewed 
outlay  whatever. 

The  journey  to  Baltimore  is  extremely  "jolty,"  and,  compared 
to  the  English  railways,  very  slow.  The  carriages,  constructed 
to  hold  about  seventy  passengers  each,  are  very  comfortable,  and 
not  more  expensive  than  a  first  class  carriage  in  England,  which 
holds  only  eighteen.  I  therefore  strongly  recommend  them  to 
the  directors  of  English  railways,  as  being  not  only  more  eco 
nomical,  but  infinitely  more  convenient  and  safe  ;  the  conductor 
or  guard  being  able  to  communicate  with  the  engine-driver,  if 
necessary. 

Apropos  of  railways  :  the  following  remarks  and  ingenious 
scheme  of  a  Yankee  (General  Duff  Green)  may  be  interesting  to 
the  English  reader.  The  portion  referring  to  the  post-office  is 
well  worthy  of  note. 

"  It  is  estimated,"  says  the  General,  "  that  nearly  ten  thou 
sand  miles  of  railroad  are  now  in  operation  in  the  United  States, 
and  that  there  soon  will  be  at  least  twenty  thousand  miles.  The 
capital  invested  is  more  than  six  hundred  millions  of  dollars 
(roughly,  a  hundred  and  twenty  millions  sterling.)  It  is  proposed 
that  the  post-office  department  should  make  contracts  with  rail 
road  companies  for  the  perpetual  use  of  their  roads,  and  that,  in 
stead  of  being  paid,  as  now,  on  contracts  for  a  term  of  years,  the 


PHILADELPHIA.  55 


railroad  companies  shall  receive  an  amount  of  5  per  cent,  bonds, 
chargeable  on  the  revenues  of  the  department  ;  the  interest  of 
which  would  be  equal  to  the  service  rendered.  Thus,  we  now 
pay  three  hundred  dollars  per  rnile,  per  annum,  for  carrying  the 
mail  on  first-class  railroads,  which  is  6  per  cent,  on  five  thousand 
dollars,  and  which,  at  five  per  cent.,  would  reduce  the  charge  on 
the  department  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  mile  per 
annum,  leaving  fifty  dollars  per  mile  per  annum  as  a  sinking 
fund  to  pay  off  the  principal,  which  it  would  do  in  less  than 
thirty-three  years. 

The  effect  of  this  would  be,  to  give  the  use  of  the  railroads  for 
ever,  free  of  all  charge,  and  consequently  to  save  to  the  depart 
ment  twenty  millions  of  dollars  (four  million  sterling)  in  thirty- 
four  years." 


CHAPTER  IV. 

BALTIMORE. 

The  far-famed  Baltimore  Clippers — Gigantic  Strides  of  Baltimore  in  Popu 
lation,  Wealth,  Luxury,  and  Refinement — A  freehold  House  possessed  by 
almost  every  Family — Situation  of  the  City — The  fashionable  Quarter — 
Beauty  of  Baltimore — Ship-building  and  domestic  Architecture — Society 
in  this  City,  and  the  happy  Appearance  of  the  Negroes — The  Federal 
Hill — Oyster-boats  and  other  Vessels  of  Burden — TheBrig-of-war  '  Law 
rence' — Cheapness  of  Ship-building  in  Baltimore — Cotton-duck  Sails — 
Hospitality. 

No  person  of  any  reflection,  brought  up  to  sea-life,  can  avoid 
being  extremely  interested  on  approaching  the  town  of  Balti 
more. 

It  has  been  my  lot,  in  various  parts  of  the  world,  to  fall  in 
with  the  far-famed  clippers  of  this  town.  Whether  in  calms  or 
storms  ;  under  close-reefed  sails,  or  with  all  the  snow-white 
"  cotton-duck"  canvas,  courting  the  breeze,  these  vessels  can  not 
fail  to  fascinate  every  beholder.  Such  graceful  and  elegant  pro 
portions  have  an  exceeding  charm  for  the  true  nautical  eye. 

Baltimore  is  a  type  of  the  great  sea-board  American  cities  ; 
that  is  to  say,  it  is  advancing  with  gigantic  strides  in  population, 
wealth,  luxury,  and  refinement.  Ten  years  ago,  the  number  of 
its  inhabitants  was  120,000.  Now,  the  population  has  increased 
to  170,000.  Although  Maryland  is  a  slave  state,  the  working 
classes  are  famous  for  their  high  moral  standard,  mainly  attrib 
utable  to  the  fact  that  each  family,  almost  without  exception, 
possesses  a  neat  and  comfortable  freehold-house  of  its  own. 


BALTIMORE.  57 


The  city  itself,  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  the  sea,  is 
situated  011  undulating  ground,  on  a  branch  of  the  Patapsco, 
a  river  which  ramifies  suddenly  into  several  "  cul-de-sacs," 
thus  giving  an  immense  water- front  age  to  this  inland  sea-port. 
Taking  advantage  of  the  chances  thus  offered  to  them  by  the 
bountiful  hand  of  Providence,  the  Marylanders  have  raised  one 
of  the  most  elegant  and  well  arranged  cities,  perhaps,  in  the 
New  World. 

The  fashionable  quarter,  situated  around  the  fine  monument 
to  Washington,  is  probably  as  striking  to  the  eye,  for  its  archi 
tecture,  as  any  quarter  of  any  city  in  existence.  The  plentiful 
supply  of  marble  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  adds  not  a  lit 
tle  to  the  general  effect. 

In  every  direction,  large  blocks  of  new  buildings  are  in  pro 
gress  ;  giving  ample  proof  that  the  good  people  of  Baltimore  are 
moving  onward  with  rapid  strides.  It  is  impossible  for  any  one 
but  a  sailor  to  appreciate  the  exceeding  beauty  of  their  ship 
building.  It  is  therefore  truly  gratifying  to  perceive  that  the 
same  faculty  which  produces  the  vessels,  is  extended  to  the 
architecture  of  their  houses.  This  is  clearly  indicated,  not  only 
in  the  mansion  of  the  wealthy  merchant,  but  likewise  the  dwell 
ing  of  the  humble  artisan. 

The  society  of  Baltimore  has  all  the  hospitality  of  New  York. 
A  stranger  can  not  divest  himself  of  the  idea  that  a  greater 
degree  of  refinement  exists  in  Baltimore,  in  all  classes,  than  in 
most  other  cities  in  the  Union.  The  happy,  careless  air  of  the 
negroes  is  likewise  remarkable.  It  is  extremely  difficult  for  an 
Englishman,  to  "  realize"  that  he  is  in  a  Slave  State.  As  to  the 
fanciful  pictures  which  an  imaginative  mind  is  apt  to  draw  of 
the  misery  and  degradation  of  slavery,  I  can  only  refer  them  to 
the  happy,  good-natured,  and  "  devil-may-care"  appearance  of 
the  slaves  themselves. 

Opposite  the  centre  of  the  town,  across  a  portion  of  the  harbor, 

c* 


58  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


stands  the  Federal  Hill,  on  the  side  of  which  is  a  singular  geo 
logical  formation,  presenting  a  miniature  representation  of  Alum 
Bay  in  the  Isle  of  Wight.  The  beautiful  white  sand,  for  which 
the  latter  is  famous,  juts  out  of  the  earth  in  exactly  the  same 
position,  close  to  the  water. 

The  Pongees,  or  oyster-boats,  and  the  Chesapeake  Bay  coast- 
vessels,  are  the  most  elegant  and  yacht-like  merchant-craft  in  the 
world.  They  are  from  sixty  tons  downward  ;  and  can  be  built 
and  fitted  for  sea  under  forty  dollars,  or  eight  pounds  a  ton. 

It  is  remarkable  that  the  vessels  intended  for  the  lowest  and 
most  degraded  offices  (such  as  carrying  manure,  oysters,  and 
wood)  are  of  elegant  and  symmetrical  proportions.  An  English 
schooner  from  Bideford,  was  lying  among  some  of  the  worst 
Baltimore  coasters.  She  looked  like  a  hog  amid  a  herd  of  ante 
lopes. 

The  true  Baltimore  clipper,  the  ideal  of  perfection  thirty  years 
ago,  is  now  quite  out  of  date.  All  the  Baltimore  ship-builders 
have  been  gradually  modifying  their  forms,  but  still  retaining 
their  graceful  appearance. 

In  the  Washington  navy-yard,  there  is  a  model  of  a  large  brig 
of  war,  the  "  Lawrence,"  of  about  four  hundred  tons,  built  on 
the  old  Baltimore-clipper  principle.  Being  found  to  be  a  failure, 
she  was  consequently  sold  out  of  the  American  navy.  With  a 
slight  difference  in  the  shape  of  the  forefoot  and  length  of  bow, 
she  is  nearly  the  same  as  the  yacht-schooner  "America."  Al 
though  a  complete  failure  as  a  man-of-war,  she  proved  herself  a 
remarkably  fast  sailer. 

A  merchant- vessel,  on  the  clipper  principle  can  be  turned  out 
by  a  Baltimore  builder  for  from  £10  to  £12  a  ton,  complete  in 
all  her  fittings.  This  is  much  cheaper  than  in  England  ;  which 
appears  unaccountable,  as  the  wages  of  artificers,  as  well  as  most 
articles  of  ship-fittings  are  much  more  expensive  in  America, 
wood  being  the  only  exception. 


BALTIMORE.  59 


"  Cotton-duok"  sails  are  almost  exclusively  used  by  American 
vessels  under  300  tons.  No  doubt  can  be  entertained  that  for 
fore-and-aft  vessels,  this  material  is  infinitely  better  than  the 
canvas  generally  used.  I  do  not  hesitate  to  assert  that  it  is 
particularly  adapted  for  yachts  ;  and  that  it  will  give  a  vessel 
an  immense  advantage  in  sailing,  particularly  in  light  winds. 
This  "  cotton-duck"  is  well  worthy  the  attention  of  the  yachts 
men  in  England.  Indeed,  for  all  pleasure-vessels  it  is  far  better, 
being  whiter,  cleaner-looking,  much  lighter,  and  easier  handled. 
Above  all,  "cotton-duck"  would  cost  only  two-thirds  of  the  pres 
ent  high  charges  for  yacht  canvas. 

Adieu  to  thee,  Baltimore  !  Famous  for  thy  beautiful  "  Chesa 
peake,"  thou  art  still  more  famous  for  thy  hospitality.  The 
genuine  welcome  of  the  old  English  times  is  still  cherished  by  thy 
sons.  Free  from  the  ostentation  of  opulence  quickly  achieved, 
Baltimore  shows  an  example  in  social  life,  which  it  would  be 
well  for  her  wealthier  sister-cities  to  follow. 


CHAPTER  V. 

WASHINGTON. 

The  Capitol — Its  Senate-Chamber,  House  of  Representatives,  Library  of 
Congress,  Supreme  Court,  &c. — View  from  the  Capitol — Population  of 
Washington — Facility  of  Admission  to  the  Senate-Chamber — Com 
mencement  of  Business — Dignity  of  the  Senate,  and  great  Respect  paid 
to  it  by  the  People — Door-keeper  in  the  Gallery  of  the  English  House 
of  Commons — Want  of  Decorum  in  the  American  House  of  Representa 
tives — Anecdote — Legislative  Procrastination — Speech  of  one  of  the 
Representatives  from  Georgia — Bitter  Attack  on  the  Navy  by  another 
Member — Anecdote — Protracted  Sitting  of  both  Chambers — Smoking — 
Society  at  Washington — Anecdote — The  British  Minister  and  his  Lady 
— The  Patent  Office — Sewing-machine — The  Museum — Original  "  Dec 
laration  of  Independence" — Printer's  Press  at  which  Franklin  worked. 

THE  Capitol  at  Washington,  an  imposing  structure,  is  situated 
in  the  centre  of  a  square  on  an  eminence  seventy-eight  feet  above 
the  sea.  It  consists  of  a  central  edifice  and  two  wings,  the  entire 
length  being  352  feet.  The  height  of  the  building  to  the  top  of 
the  dome  is  120  feet;  and  under  the  dome  is  the  rotunda,  95 
feet  in  diameter,  adorned  with  sculpture  and  painting  of  a 
national  character.  A  fine  statue  of  Columbus  stands  at  the 
entrance  ;  and  a  colossal  statue  of  Washington  is  placed  in  a 
temple  in  the  east  park. 

Within  the  Capitol  are  the  Senate  Chamber,  the  House  of 
Representatives,  the  Library  of  Congress,  the  Court-Room  of  the 
Supreme  Court,  and  about  seventy  apartments  for  the  accommo 
dation  of  committees,  &c.  The  building  is  surrounded  by  a  park 


WASHINGTON.  61 


of  twenty-two  acres,  ornamentally  laid  out  with  trees,  shrub 
beries,  fountains,  &c. 

The  Capitol,  from  its  commanding  position,  has  an  extensive 
view  of  undulating  plains,  bounded  in  the  distance,  on  one  side, 
by  an  amphitheatre  of  uplands,  and  on  the  other,  by  the  muddy 
but  placid  Potomac.  Several  broad  flights  of  steps  lead  through 
the  park  down  the  west  side  of  the  Capitol  hill,  and  open  upon 
Pennsylvania  Avenue.  In  the  distance,  at  the  end  of  this  broad 
and  spacious  vista,  is  the  President's  house  ;  arid  in  the  vicinity 
are  situated  the  various  government  offices.  The  population  w 
about  40,000  ;  but,  like  almost  every  city  in  the  United  States, 
it  is  rapidly  increasing.  The  prosperity  of  Washington  being 
due  solely  to  its  position  as  the  seat  of  government,  the  popula 
tion  is  of  a  very  fluctuating  character  ;  in  the  session  of  Congress, 
it  is  crowded  to  excess,  while  in  the  intervals  it  is  a  very  quiet 
place  indeed.  Social  equality  is  here  seen  to  perfection  ;  and,  au 
every  one  of  the  sovereign  people  has  access  to  the  head  of  the 
nation  (the  President),  they  think  themselves,  of  course,  equal  to 
any  one  else. 

The  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  holds  its  sittings  in  the 
Capitol.  This  is  indeed  as  dignified  a  body  as  can  be  presented 
by  any  tribunal  whatever.  It  is  composed  of  nine  judges,  the 
only  persons  in  the  States  who  sit  in  robes,  a  costume  which 
adds  to  the  dignity  of  their  appearance. 

The  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  possess  great  interest 
for  a  stranger,  particularly  an  Englishman  who  is  acquainted 
with  the  British  Houses  of  Parliament.  Unfortunately,  from 
some  defect  in  the  architectural  arrangements,  the  voices  of 
speakers  in  each  chamber  are  very  indistinctly  heard. 

Being  extremely  anxious  to  observe  the  proceedings  in  both 
Houses,  I  took  care  to  arrive  at  the  Capitol  at  half-past  ten  ; 
and,  after  various  inquiries,  found  my  way,  accompanied  by  a 
lady,  into  the  ladies'  gallery  of  the  Senate  Chamber.  No  door- 


62  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


keeper  obstructed  the  entrance  ;  and  the  sovereign  people  ap 
peared  to  consider  the  House  as  part  of  their  own  property.  The 
civility  and  kindness  of  manner  exhibited  to  one  another  were 
remarkable,  and  formed  a  strong  contrast  to  the  conduct  of  the 
same  class  in  England. 

On  taking  my  seat  in  the  gallery,  just  opposite  the  Speaker,  I 
watched  with  great  interest  the  House  as  it  became  gradually 
filled  with  Senators.  At  eleven  o'clock,  the  desks  were  about 
half-occupied ;  and  the  Speaker,  rapping  his  desk  with  a  ham 
mer,  exclaimed  :  "  The  House  is  in  order." 

A  short  prayer  was  then  offered  up  ;  and  the  Senate,  com 
posed  of  sixty-two  members,  proceeded  to  business.  As  the  first 
hour  was  devoted  to  the  reception  of  petitions,  I  was  fortunate 
enough  to  hear  several  Senators  called  for  by  name,  in  rotation, 
according  to  the  Speaker's  list.  The  first  summoned  was  Mr. 
Clay,  the  Senator  from  Kentucky. 

The  Speaker's  sonorous  voice  was  heard  with  great  effect,  as 
he  solemnly  called  forth  : 

"  The  Senator  from  Virginia  ;"  "the  Senator  from  Ohio ;"  "the 
Senator  from  Illinois,"  &c. 

How  could  this  fail  deeply  to  interest  an  Englishman,  partic 
ularly  when  he  reflected  that  each  of  these  Senators  represented 
a  "  State"  as  large  as,  or  larger  than  England  ;  and  with  a  soil 
and  natural  productions  capable  of  supporting  a  much  larger 
population. 

The  Senate  is  a  remarkably  dignified  body,  and  may  be  favor 
ably  compared  with  any  assembly  in  other  countries.  I  re 
marked  this  to  one  of  the  Senators,  who  assured  me  that  they 
had  fallen  off  very  much  in  this  respect,  and  were  not  now  so 
striking  in  appearance  as  they  had  been  ten  years  ago.  Still,  it 
is  impossible  to  avoid  being  strnck  by  the  unmistakable  evidence 
in  their  physiognomies  of  intellectual  power. 

The  sovereign   people  have   a  much  greater   respect  for  the 


WASHINGTON.  63 


Senate  than  for  the  other  House.  I  remarked  that  they  invari 
ably  uncovered  their  heads,  on  entering  the  Senate  Chamber. 
This  was  not  the  case  in  the  House  of  Representatives. 

On  one  occasion,  I  said  to  a  tall,  good-looking  Yankee  : 

"  Why  don't  you  take  your  hat  off  in  the  presence  of  your 
Representatives  ?" 

''  Why,  stranger,"  replied  he,  "  I  won't  pay  any  respect  to 
those  who  don't  respect  themselves." 

At  this  moment,  I  could  not  avoid  thinking  of  the  usual  scene 
in  the  Speaker's  gallery  of  our  House  of  Commons,  on  any  inter 
esting  occasion,  where,  when  the  visitor  becomes  interested  in 
hearing  some  statesman  of  celebrity,  and  leans  forward  a  little, 
he  is  suddenly  startled  by  the  Cockney  voice  of  the  door-keeper, 
or  other  official  in  attendance,  exclaiming,  in  a  very  grandilo 
quent  manner:  "  'Eds  hup,  'eds  hup!"  to  the  inexpressible  an 
noyance  and  loss  of  the  unfortunate  listeners. 

The  Houses  of  Congress  are  perfectly  free  from  all  such  im 
pertinent  and'  uncalled-for  assumptions  of  "  Jacks  in  office."  In 
truth,  the  officials  of  every  class  in  the  United  States  are  as 
famous  for  their  civility  and  attention  as  their  contemporaries  in 
England  are  for  the  reverse. 

The  House  of  Representatives  is  separated  from  the  Senate  by 
a  large  circular  hall,  called  the  Rotunda  ;  but  so  conveniently 
placed,  that  the  communication  between  the  legislative  bodies  is 
simple  and  immediate. 

The  representative  body,  composed  of  about  two  hundred  and 
forty  members,  does  not  give  a  stranger  the  idea  of  dignity  or 
repose  ;  as  the  constant  and  loud  conversation  is  accompanied  by 
a  running  lire  of  raps  bestowed  by  honorable  members  on  the 
desks  before  them,  for  the  purpose  of  summoning  the  boys  in 
attendance.  These  noises,  coupled  with  the  defective  construc 
tion  of  the  chamber,  which  causes  five  distinct  echoes,  render  it 
necessary  for  the  members  to  "roar  again,"  if  they  intend  to  be 


<54  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


audibk.  The  consequence,  as  may  be  imagined,  is  an  indescrib 
able  confusion  of  sounds  ;  and  the  violent  efforts  of  the  orators 
to  be  heard,  speedily  excites  them,  particularly  the  Southern 
men,  when  the  gesticulation  at  times  becomes  not  only  exagger 
ated,  but  absolutely  ludicrous.  I  frequently  heard  abuse  ban 
died  about ;  such  as,  "  I  can  not  answer  for  that  gentleman's 
obtuse  intellect ;"  or,  "I  can  not  beat  common  sense  into  such 
a  thick  head,"  &c.  Once,  I  regret  to  say,  I  heard  "the  lie"  di 
rectly  given.  This  outrage  was  answered  by  a  greater  outrage, 
in  the  shape  of  a  rough  push  or  blow.  The  belligerent  parties 
were  speedily  separated,  and  order  was  restored,  by  all  the  mem 
bers  in  the  vicinity  rushing  forward  to  the  rescue.  The  specta 
tors  we're  very  indignant  at  this  unseemly  proceeding,  especially 
as  they  knew  that  foreigners  were  spectators  of  the  scene. 

Toward  the  close  of  the  session,  great  excitement  is  apt  to  be 
shown.  This  arises  from  the  bad  habit  of  procrastinating  the 
Appropriation  Bill  and  other  important  affairs  to  the  last  mo 
ment.  It  was  said,  by  an  American  Senator,  uiat  more  real 
business  was  transacted  in  fifteen  minutes  during  the  last  two 
days,  than  for  six  weeks  previously. 

I  listened  with  great  interest  to  a  speech  by  Mr.  Toombs,  one 
of  the  Representatives  from  Georgia.  He  was  abusing  the  Army 
Appropriation  Bill,  and  trying  to  have  it  reduced.  With  great 
command  of  language,  and  the  voice  of  a  Stentor,  he  was  ably 
denouncing  the  expenditure  ;  but  the  House  appeared  utterly 
careless  and  inattentive,  and  conversation  was  going  on  as  usual. 
The  loud  flaps  of  the  members'  books  or  hands  were  not  discon 
tinued  for  a  moment.  Onwrard  bellowed  the  orator,  in  what 
might  be  fairly  termed  an  able  discourse,  but  still  without  any 
person  appearing  to  listen  to  one  word  that  was  said.  At  length, 
he  began  to  compare  the  cost  of  each  individual  soldier  of  the 
American  army  with  the  soldiers  of  the  English  army.  "  Look 
at  Great  Britain,"  urged  he  ;  "  look  at  that  vast  and  magnificent 


WASHINGTON.  65 


empire,  on  whose  territories  it  may  be  truly  said,  without  exag 
geration,  that  the  sun  never  sets."  This  was  a  lucky  hit.  In 
stantaneously  the  noise  ceased.  All  tongues  were  hushed  at  the 
allusion  to  Great  Britain  ;  and  the  orator  proceeded  with  his 
harangue  amidst  comparative  silence.  Several  members  who 
were  seated  behind  him,  and  could  riot  hear  distinctly,  changed 
their  places,  and  came  round  in  front.  Soon  a  little  crowd  was 
collected  on  the  floor  of  the  House,  anxious  to  hear  every  word. 

"How  comes  it,"  said  he,  "that  the  soldier  of  the  United 
States  army  costs  at  this  moment  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars 
a  year  more  than  he  did  in  1840  ?  How  comes  it  that  a  soldier 
of  the  United  States  army  costs,  in  California,  one  thousand 
dollars  per  annum  ?  If  it  be  necessary,  we  can  afford  ten, 
twenty,  fifty,  nay,  a  hundred  millions  of  dollars  ;  but  I  consider 
this  enormous  expense  totally  unnecessary.  How  comes  it  that 
the  soldier  of  the  United  States  army  costs  more  by  a  consider 
able  sum  than  the  most  costly  soldier  in  the  world — the  British 
soldier  ?  "What  are  these  men  ?  They  are  all  hired  and  foreign 
mercenaries." 

On  the  Navy  Appropriation  Bill,  a  member,  whose  name  I 
forget,  attacked  the  navy  in  a  bitter  and  hostile  spirit.  Among 
other  undignified  and  unstatesmanlike  vituperation,  he  used  the 
term,  "  Grog-soaked  lieutenants." 

I  turned  to  an  officer  of  rank  in  the  American  navy,  standing 
close  to  me,  and  asked  him  what  the  navy  would  say  to  such 
language. 

"  They  won't  care  a  cent  about  it,"  replied  he  ;  "  it  is  all 
Buncome  :  besides,  it  is  well  known  in  our  navy  that  the  man 
who  is  talking  in  this  manner  had  his  ear  bitten  off  by  a  rowdy, 
some  time  ago.  I  saw  the  whole  proceeding  ;  and  as  I  held  a 
large  stick  in  my  hand,  could  easily  htive  saved  his  ear,  by 
knocking  the  rowdy  down.  But,  of  course,  I  wouldn't,  as  he 
was  always  abusing  the  navy.  We  can  well  afford  to  laugh  at 


66  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

such  a  man's  talking  to  Buncome.  It  is  to  gain  credit  with  his 
constituents,  and  to  create  what  we  call  political  capital." 

From  the  3d  of  March,  at  noon,  both  Chambers  sat  until 
noon  of  the  4th.  As  most  of  the  undignified  scenes  alluded  to 
took  place  during  protracted  sittings,  allowances  must  be  made 
for  the  attendant  fatigue,  and  consequent  excitement  and  ex 
haustion.  The  easy  access  ;  the  want  of  forms  and  ceremonies  ; 
the  extremely  polite  and  dignified  bearing  of  the  spectators, 
command  the  attention  and  admiration  of  a  stranger. 

In  the  evenings,  numerous  gentlemen  were  solacing  them 
selves  with  cigars.  The  passages  outside  both  Chambers  were 
crammed  with  these  fumigators,  which  rendered  the  air  any 
thing  "but  pure  or  agreeable.  As,  however,  the  ladies  who 
crowded  the  galleries  did  not  object  to  it,  no  other  person  had 
any  business  to  complain. 

The  society  at  Washington  is  of  a  very  mixed  character  ;  not 
nearly  so  select  as  any  other  city  in  the  Union.  The  hotels  are 
very  uncomfortable,  in  consequence  of  the  crowding  together  of 
persons  of  uncongenial  habits.  It  was  here  that  I  first  per 
ceived  an  instance  of  social  impropriety.  I  am  bound  to  confess, 
however,  that  the  American  ladies,  seated  at  the  table,  and 
cognizant  of  the  affair,  were  infinitely  more  put  out  than  my 
self.  /  was  simply  amused  ;  but  Americans  are  extremely 
annoyed  and  irritated,  particularly  when  English  persons  are 
present. 

A  very  beautiful  young  woman,  seated  near  the  top  of  one  of 
the  long  dinner-tables,  suddenly  commenced  a  conversation  with 
another  young  lady  on  the  opposite  side,  who  was  divided  from 
her  by  several  sitters.  She  was  forced  to  elevate  her  voice  into 
a  scream,  to  drown  the  clatter  of  waiters,  knives  and  forks,  &c. 
After  a  discordant  dialogue  of  some  minutes'  duration,  perfectly 
audible  to  the  whole  room,  she  turned  suddenly  to  the  subject 
of  matrimony. 


WASHINGTON.  67 


"  As  for  me,"  she  screamed,  "  as  for  me,  I  won't  even  look  at 
any  man  (I  don't  care  who  he  is)  over  the  age  of  twenty-three. 
Oh,  my  !" 

She  then  subsided  into  silence  ;  and  I  could  not  avoid  looking 
with  interest  on  that  expressive,  innocent,  and  beautiful  counte 
nance.  In  repose,  she  seemed  a  perfect  angel ;  but  the  moment 
her  exquisite  little  mouth  opened,  and  the  delicate  coral  lips 
parted,  what  a  sound  !  The  illusion  was  dispelled,  and  the 
fable  of  the  peacock  singing,  was  forcibly  recalled  to  rny  rnind. 

The  entertainments  at  Washington  are  upon  a  less  ostenta 
tious,  but  infinitely  more  common-sense  plan,  than  those  in  New 
York.  In  the  fashionable  society  of  New  York,  a  display  of 
wealth  appeared  to  be  the  end  in  view.  In  Washington,  mind 
and  manner  were  in  greater  estimation  ;  and  comfort  and  econ 
omy  of  living  bore  the  palm.  Among  the  most  hospitable  and 
agreeable  houses  was  that  of  the  British  minister. 

"  Never  before  did  I  see,"  was  the  observation  of  a  keen  and 
distinguished  American,  "  a  hostess  with  such  exquisite  tact — 
such  keen,  though  quiet  and  observant  manner.  Are  all  your 
English  ladies  so  unremitting  and  attentive  to  their  guests  ?" 

No  person  should  leave  Washington  without  a  good  look  at 
the  Patent  Office,  which  contains  countless  inventions  of  the 
'cute  Yankee  mind.  These  pour  in  with  such  abundance,  that 
already  the  space  allotted  to  them  is  so  completely  crammed  as 
to  preclude  the  possibility  of  any  close  investigation.  By  the 
kindness  of  Professor  Renwick,  I  was  enabled  to  examine  the 
celebrated  sewing-machine,  and  was  informed  that  it  had  made 
seventeen  pair  of  inexpressibles  in  one  day ;  the  only  assistance 
required  being  a  little  girl  to  hook  on  the  cloth. 

"Alas  !  alas  !"  the  assistant  exclaimed,  "  it  has  been  so  mauled 
about  since  the  ladies  heard  of  its  wonderful  performance,  that 
it  is  quite  deranged,  and  won't  work  !" 

The  suit  of  clothes,   worn  by  Washington  on  resigning  his 


68  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


commission  as  General-in-chief,  is  to  be  seen  in  the  museum.  I 
can  not  admire  the  manner  in  which  these  relics  are  exhibited. 
They  are  hung  up,  much  like  "  old  clothes"  in  a  Jew's  shop,  and 
quite  destroy  the  feeling  of  reverence  and  dignity  attached  to 
any  memorials  of  so  great  and  good  a  man. 

An  Englishman  ought  not  to  pass  through  this  room  without 
inspecting  the  original  "  Declaration  of  Independence" — the 
Magna  Charta  of  the  North  American  continent.  Let  him  read 
it  carefully  through,  and  reflect  upon  its  contents.  It  may  not 
be  generally  known  that,  in  the  rough  draft,  as  originally  drawn 
out,  a  complaint  against  the  mother-country  was  set  forth,  which 
is  omitted  in  the  present  document.  As  it  formerly  stood,  the 
British  Government  was  charged  with  having  forced  slavery  on 
the  colonies,  in  spite  of  their  entreaties  and  remonstrances. 

An  ancient  and  worm-eaten  oaken  printer's  press  attracts  the 
stranger's  eye.  It  is  the  self-same  at  which  Franklin  worked  in 
London  upward  of  one  hundred  years  ago. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

WASHINGTON    DOCK- YARD. 

Present  use  ol  the  Dock-yard — Facility  with  which  Foreigners  may  pene 
trate  its  Recesses,  contrasted  with  the  Difficulties  to  be  encountered 
in  gaining  Admission  into  English  National  Dock-yards — Chain  and 
Anchor  Factory — Anecdote — Chain-cables — Superiority  of  American 
Iron — New  Model  for  Anchors — English  Dock-yard  "  Matee" — Ameri 
can  Artillery — Remarkable  Contrast — The  Shell  Factory — Rapid  Manu 
facture  of  Musket  and  Pistol-balls — The  Ordnance  Laboratory — Shell 
Fuses — Percussion  Caps — Congreve  Rockets — Conversation  at  a  Naval 
and  Military  Dinner-party. 

THE  Dock-yard,  or  Navy-yard,  as  the  Americans  are  fond  of 
calling  it,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  one  mile  south 
of  the  Capitol,  is  not  now  used  for  building,  or  even  repairing, 
vessels ;  but  exclusively  for  manufacturing  boilers,  steam  machin 
ery,  anchors,  tanks,  and  all  the  iron  and  metal  fittings  required 
in  their  ships  of  war.  Buildings  are  now  in  progress  to  facilitate 
the  manufacture  of  the  very  excellent  copper  recently  discovered 
on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior.  An  ordnance  laboratory  is  like 
wise  attached  to  the  dock-yard.  This  branch,  unlike  the  ord 
nance  in  England,  belongs  to  one  and  the  same  department. 
No  person  can  visit  the  yard  without  being  struck  by  the  ad 
mirable  arrangement,  the  nice  adaptation,  the  order  and  regu 
larity,  displayed  at  every  step,  arid  on  all  sides. 

Nothing  of  interest  being  concealed,  it  is  impossible  that  any 
stranger,  particularly  one  accustomed  to  the  dock-yards  in  En 
gland,  can  avoid  surprise  at  the  readiness  with  which  he  can 


70  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


penetrate  into  this  "  sanctum"  of  Uncle  Sam.  Let  me  first  de 
scribe  the  ceremonies  of  an  entrance  I  once  made  into  the  En 
glish  dock-yard  at  Portsmouth,  and  then  contrast  it  with  my 
entrance  into  the  establishment  at  Washington.  On  a  fine  May 
afternoon,  I  strolled  down  Common  Hard  to  the  dock-yard 
gates,  accompanied  by  a  member  of  the  House  of  Commons. 
Although  well-known,  there,  and  asserting  my  companion  to  be 
an  M.P.,  we  were  not  allowed  to  enter  without  considerable 
difficulty  and  delay.  At  length,  after  sundry  questions  and  a 
demand  for  signatures,  the  policeman  was  satisfied ;  a  card  was 
delivered  to  us,  and  the  "  people's  representative"  was  allowed 
to  walk  in. 

Now  mark  the  contrast.  On  a  misty  and  very  English 
morning  in  the  month  of  February,  '51,1  marched  along  Penn 
sylvania  Avenue  on  my  way  to  the  naval  workshop  of  Washing 
ton.  The  road  led  me  through  the  Capitol,  where  I  will  only 
pause  for  a  moment,  to  admire  the  fine  marble  monument  erect 
ed  to  the  memory  of  Somers,  Caldwell,  Decatur,  and  the  Ameri 
can  officers  killed  at  Tripoli.  Passing  over  the  crest  of  the 
Capitol  hill,  and  gradually  descending  south,  toward  the  banks 
of  the  Potomac,  I  approached  the  gates  of  the  dock-yard,  when 
my  mind  misgave  me  a  little.  "What,"  thought  I,  "would  be 
the  reception  of  an  American  naval  officer,  if  he  were  to  march, 
thus  boldly,  into  the  jaws  of  Portsmouth,  Plymouth,  or  Sheer- 
ness  ?  A  pretty  civil  reception  he  would  meet  with,  truly." 

Somewhat  abashed  by  this  idea,  I  rather  halted  on  nearing 
the  gate,  particularly  as  I  perceived  a  huge,  grey-coated  sentinel 
with  an  unmistakable  Milesian  countenance,  staring  fixedly  at 
me.  Putting  the  best  face  on  the  matter,  I  boldly  advanced, 
and  addressed  my  gray  friend  as  follows  : 

"  Is  the  Commodore  in  the  yard  ?" 

Not  receiving  any  answer,  and  the  sentry  looking  very  wise, 
or  fierce,  I  could  not  s'ay  which,  I  repeated  the  question. 


WASHINGTON  DOCK-FAKD.  71 

"  Is  the  Commodore  in  the  yard,  sentry  ?" 

Without  returning  any  verbal  reply,  he  leisurely  inclined  his 
head  on  the  right  shoulder.  This  I  correctly  interpreted  into 
"  Yes  ;  go  ahead,  stranger."  So  on  I  went. 

Marching  straight  down  the  yard,  I  inquired  the  way  to  the 
Commodore's  office,  and  was  directed  there  with  the  greatest 
civility.  The  yard  is  composed  of  about  a  dozen  large  houses  or 
factories,  and  one  wooden  ship-building  shed  (the  latter  old  and 
apparently  obsolete.)  These  buildings  are  scattered  somewhat 
irregularly  about  the  yard,  covering  nearly  twenty-four  acres  of 
land,  with  a  considerable  frontage  on  the  Potomac. 

Let  us  first  take  the  "  chain-and-anchor"  factory,  and  describe 
what  is  interesting  and  novel  there.  Before  doing  so,  however, 
it  may  not  be  amiss  to  relate  an  anecdote  told  by  a  gallant 
Commodore  in  the  American  navy — a  man  who  had  a  personal 
knowledge  of  Nelson  and  Bonaparte  ;  and  who  is  deservedly 
one  of  the  most  esteemed  veterans  in  the  service. 

"Some  years  ago,"  said  he,  "I  commanded  one  of  our  frigates. 
As  we  were  going  into  Spithead,  I  unfortunately  lost  an  anchor 
and  chain.  Of  course  I  got  it  replaced  at  your  dock-yard  at 
Portsmouth.  After  a  considerable  stay,  I  sailed  for  Toulon,  in 
France,  and,  by  a  curious  coincidence,  lost  a  second  anchor  and 
chain.  Johnny  Crapaud  was  as  civil  as  John  Bull,  and  im 
mediately  supplied  me  with  another.  On  our  return  to  the 
States,  we  determined  to  test  the  English  chain  and  the  French 
chain  against  one  of  ours  of  the  same  size.  The  trial  took  place 
at  Boston,  and  resulted  as  follows.  The  Portsmouth  chain  gave 
out  first ;  the  French  second  ;  and  the  Yankee  last." 

It  may  be  feared  that  some  of  the  chain-cables  served  out  to 
Her  Majesty's  ships  are  defective,  in  spite  of  the  usual  testing. 
This  opinion  is  confirmed  by  my  own  experience.  For  instance, 
in  the  spring  of  1830,  the  best  bower  of  Her  Majesty's  ship 
"  Childers,"  parted  in  the  land-locked  harbor  of  Cromartie,  Scot- 


72  TOim  IN  AMERICA. 


land.  Again,  Her  Majesty's  ship,  "  Mastiff,"  August,  1847,  was 
lying  snugly  moored  in  a  bay,  in  the  island  of  Sanday,  Orkneys. 
At  one  o'clock,  it  was  a  dead  calm.  A  heavy  gale  suddenly 
sprung  up  ;  and,  although  blowing  off  the  land,  the  chains  both 
parted  in  a  few  minutes.  What  makes  this  the  more  mysterious, 
is  that,  three  days  after,  she  rode  out  in  quite  as  heavy  a  gale 
with  her  stream-anchor  and  chain.  The  sudden  snapping  of 
these  three  chains,  with  other  reasons,  might  render  one  sus 
picious  of  all  iron- work  supplied  from  the  Eastern  Dock-yards. 

The  American  iron,  now  furnished  by  contract,  is  found 
infinitely  superior  to  any  before  used  in  "Washington ;  a  link  of 
one  and  a  half  inch  in  dia.meter,  of  the  new  contract-iron,  being 
found  equal  to  a  link  two  inches  and  an  eighth  of  the  old  cables. 
In  fact,  so  superior  is  the  tenacity  of  the  new  iron,  that  the 
testing  links  were  all  broken  on  the  first  trial.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  about  the  accuracy  of  this. 

The  model  of  anchors  now  manufactured  in  the  United  States 
yards,  is  an  immense  improvement  on  what  is  termed  the  "  old 
establishment."  The  shank  is  much  reduced  in  length,  and 
more  metal  is  used  in  the  junction  with  the  arms ;  thus  strength 
ening  the  material  part.  The  stock,  likewise,  is  beginning  to 
get  credit  in  the  States  for  holding  power,  bearing  out  the  theoiy 
of  Lieutenant  Rogers,  the  patentee  of  the  anchor  of  that  name. 
The  links  of  a  chain-cable  are  all  numbered.  This,  being  a 
simple  and  easy  process,  under  the  forging  hammer,  and  of  ob 
vious  advantage  to  all  naval  men,  ought  to  be  generally  adopted. 
The  swivels  for  the  largest  moorings,  are  made  so  neat  and  com 
pact,  that  they  can  be  hove  in  through  the  ship's  hawse-holes. 

"  And  to  whom  do  you  suppose  we  are  indebted  for  all  these 
improvements,  and  many  more  too  tedious  to  mention  ?"  was 
the  question  put  to  me  by  my  American  chaperon.  "  "Why,  to 
an  English  dock-yard  matee  from  Devonport.  There  he  stands. 
Let  me  introduce  yon.." 


WASHINGTON  DOCK-YARD.  73 

I  was  accordingly  introduced,  and  found  that  my  friend  had 
been  forty  years  in  the  Washington  yard. 

"He  is  worth  100,000  dollars,"  was  whispered  into  my  ear. 

"Much  more,"  I  replied,  "than  he  ever  would  have  realized 
in  Plymouth.  What  a  lucky  dog  !" 

Let  us  now  examine  the  field  and  boat  artillery.  These 
admirable  and  exquisitely  simple  howitzer-guns  are  twelves  and 
twenty-four  pounders  ;  the  twelves  averaging  750  cwt.,  and  the 
twenty-fours  1300  cwt.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  ease 
and  celerity  with  which  these  guns  are  transferred  from  a  boat's 
slide  to  a  field  carriage,  and  vice  versa.  At  this  time,  the  guns 
and  slides  and  carriages  were  all  lying  in  a  confused  mass  on 
the  floor  of  the  store. 

"  Would  you  like  to  see  the  field-howitzer  exercised  ?"  was 
the  polite  offer  made  to  me. 

"  Amazingly,"  I  replied  ;  "  nothing  better." 

"  Let  us,  then,  walk  down  to  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,"  con 
tinued  my  companion.  And  we  leisurely  advanced  down  the 
two  hundred  yards  that  separated  us  from  the  river.  Before, 
however,  the  distance  was  passed,  the  twenty-four  pound  how 
itzer  came  racing  after  us,  dragged  by  six,  and  pushed  by  two, 
dock-yard  matees. 

"  Gtuick  work,"  thought  I,  "quick  work  for  matees." 

"  Now,  sir,  take  out  your  watch,  and  mark  time  while  they 
fire.  Mind  how  you  point  her,"  added  the  Commodore,  address 
ing  the  men  ;  "see  the  shot  don't  hit  that  sloop  in  the  bend. 
Now  then,  begin." 

"  These  dock-yard  matees  are  a  pretty  smart  set  of  sailor 
chaps,  I  guess,"  said  I.  "  Why,  there  were  four  discharges 
within  thirty  seconds  ;  two  shots  were  ricochetting  at  the  same 
moment." 

The  intelligent  officer  who  constructed  these  admirable  field 
carriages,  as  well  as  many  other  ordnance  improvements,  was 

D 


74  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


rewarded  for  his  exertions  the  same  day  by  a  vote  of  Congress 
which  secured  to  him  one  thousand  five  hundred  dollars  per 
annum  extra. 

Curveting  at  a  sharp  run  round  an  old  anchor,  lying  on  the 
ground,  the  howitzer  disappeared  at  a  rapid  pace.  I  am  very 
much  mistaken  if  this  was  not  the  simplest  and  most  effective 
field-piece  in  the  world — still  more  mistaken  if  the  majority  of 
the  crew  were  not  brought  up  in  an  English  man-of-war. 

These  guns  are  cast  from  copper  procured  from  Lake  Superior. 
It  is  asserted  that  this  metal  is  a  considerable  per  centage  more 
adhesive  and  tough  than  any  other  copper  known. 

A  remarkable  contrast  was  afforded  in  comparing  this  gun 
with  one  lying  close  by.  The  latter  unsightly  abortion  was 
cast  in  England  in  1777,  and  sent  out  to  Cornwallis  to  assist  in 
coercing  Washington  and  the  American  colonies.  Its  exceeding 
ugliness  merits  a  short  description.  Length,  two  feet  ten  inches. 
Ten  inch  bore,  with  several  reinforce  rings.  Weight,  about  nine 
cwt.  It  is  now  looked  upon  more  as  if  it  were  an  antediluvian 
curiosity  than  a  trophy.  There  is  not  the  slightest  chance  of  its 
ever  coming  into  use  again. 

Let  us  now  proceed  to  the  shell-factory. 

The  first  thing  that  strikes  one  is,  that  Brother  Jonathan  has 
succeeded  in  casting  the  "  bushing"  or  case  of  fuse  into  the  shell 
itself.  This  is  a  novel  and  extremely  economical  invention; 
and  is  a  desideratum  that  all  the  "  warlike  powers  of  Europe" 
have  been  racking  their  brains  for,  this  "many  a  year."  The 
Yankees  can  not,  however,  manage  it  in  any  shell  larger  than  a 
twelve  pounder. 

In  this  department,  two  men  are  employed,  compressing  musket 
and  pistol  balls  with  astonishing  celerity.  The  lead  is  prepared 
in  rods,  about  two  feet  long,  and  rapidly  passed  through  a  com 
pressor.  The  usual  day's  work  is  twenty-five  thousand ;  of 
course  more  than  the  present  consumption. 


WASHINGTON  DOCK-YABD.  75 

The  Ordnance  Laboratory  now  was  thrown  open  to  my  view, 
and  fully  kept  pace  with  the  other  admirable  arrangements  for 
which  our  American  brethren  are  so  celebrated. 

The  uniformity  with  which  the  shell-fuses  were  pressed  and 
filled,  is  extraordinary.  A  machine  presses  the  composition 
gradually  down,  until  the  weight  is  300  Ibs.  A  bell  then  rings, 
giving  notice  to  the  operator,  who  is  thus  enabled  to  fill  the  fuse 
with  exactly  equal  strength  throughout.  The  percussion-caps, 
after  completion,  are  covered  with  a  coat  of  varnish,  of  such  a 
nature  that  they  resist  the  effect  of  soaking  in  water  for  many 
hours.  The  English  and  French  caps  are  said  to  be  useless  after 
being  immersed  two  hours.  All  the  cartridges,  in  packages  of  a 
dozen,  are  likewise  covered  with  a  coating  of  the  same  varnish  ; 
this  keeps  them  serviceable  even  after  being  under  water.  Crom 
well's  advice  to  his  troopers  has  not  been  lost  upon  Jonathan : 
"  Trust  in  the  Lord,  and  keep  your  powder  dry." 

Congreve  rockets,  without  sticks,  are  likewise  used.  They 
are  so  constructed  that  the  back  fire  in  escaping  gives  a  rotatory 
motion,  and  thus  keeps  them  in  a  direct  line,  without  requiring 
the  balance  of  a  stick  or  bar  behind.  The  rotatory  motion  must, 
however,  greatly  diminish  their  range  from  the  lateral  direction  of 
the  back  fire.  The  cases  are  filled  by  means  of  an  hydraulic  press, 
capable  of  exerting  a  pressure  of  from  seventy-five  to  eighty  tons. 

At  a  large  dinner-party,  the  following  day,  composed  of  naval, 
ordnance,  and  scientific  authorities,  the  conversation  turned  on 
the  free  and  ready  admission  of  foreigners  to  the  American  dock 
yards,  arsenals,  &c. 

"  Your  liberality  is  great,"  said  I,  "  to  permit  an  officer  of  a 
foreign  service,  like  myself,  to  examine  so  minutely  the  interior 
of  these  establishments." 

"  Not  so  great  as  you  imagine,"  replied  an  ordnance  authority, 
"  although  we  Americans  know  full  well,  that  you  do  not  allow 
such  access  to  yowrs" 


76  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


"  Why  then  do  you  disavow  your  liberality  ?"  I  inquired. 

"I  will  tell  you,"  he  replied.  "It  is  a  very  simple  affair; 
you  will  see  it  in  a  moment.  We  have  accurate  descriptions, 
and,  what  is  more,  models,  of  every  thing  of  consequence  in  your 
dock-yards  and  arsenals.  As  we  can  procure  these,  we  have  110 
doubt  that  the  English  Government  can  do  the  same  with  regard 
to  ours.  In  fact,  we  know  they  can.  With  this  conviction,  it 
would  be  only  waste  of  time  and  money  to  endeavor  to  prevent 
that  which  is  as  inevitable  as  water  finding  its  own  level.  You 
are  at  perfect  liberty  to  examine  into,  and  take  notes  of,  any 
thing  you  please.  We  have  no  concealments  ;  or,  at  least,  very 
few  indeed." 

"  This  appears  simple  enough,"  I  observed,  "  and  in  accord 
ance  with  common-sense.  But,  although  I  don't  doubt  youi 
assertion  in  the  least,  I  should  like  you  to  produce  some  evidence 
to  prove  the  fact  of  your  possession  of  this  knowledge." 

"Let  me  see,"  said  my  Ordnance  friend,  pondering  for  a  mo 
ment.  "  I  have  it,  I  have  it,  in  one  of  the  gunnery -books  of 
questions  and  answers  in  use  in  her  Majesty's  ship  '  Excellent.' 

"  The  devil  !"  exclaimed  I ;   "  how  did  you  get  hold  of  that  ?" 

"  There  is  one  proof,  at  any  rate,"  continued  my  friend  ;  "but 
in  that  book  there  is  a  question,  No.  18,  that  has  not  received  a 
satisfactory  or  correct  answer.  At  least,  it  is  not  considered  sat 
isfactory  or  correct  by  our  ordnance  officers." 

"  Pray  let  me  hear  all  about  it,"  I  exclaimed. 

"Certainly,"  answered  my  intelligent  informant;  "I  have 
great  pleasure  in  doing  so  ;  particularly  as  it  will  tend  to  eluci 
date  the  truth — the  great  point  we  both  have  in  view.  The 
question  runs  thus  : — 'Are  there  any  disadvantages  in  too  great 
windage  ?'  Answer, — '  The  deflection  as  well  as  the  variation 
in  the  ranges  of  shot  fired  with  the  same  charges  and  elevation, 
is  partly  attributable  to  the  windage  ;  for  the  shot,  on  its  quit 
ting  the  gun,  is  liable  to  strike  against  the  sides  of  the  bore.  If 


WASHINGTON  DOCK-YARD.  77 

the  right  side  be  the  last  part  struck,  the  deflection  will  be  to  the 
left.  If  the  under  part,  the  range  will  be  increased  and  vice 
versa.'  In  this  answer  to  No.  18,  you  will  therefore  perceive 
that,  although  the  word  'partly'  seems  to  recognize  other  causes 
of  deflection  and  variation  of  range,  the  paramount  or  overruling 
jause  is  overlooked  altogether.  Certainly,  the  last  blow  of  the 
ball  at  the  mouth  of  the  gun  will  have  its  influence,  for  a  time, 
on  the  flight  of  the  shot  ;  but  a  variety  of  careful  experiments 
have  shown  that  the  principal  cause  of  deflection  and  variation 
of  range,  is  attributable  to  want  of  uniformity  in  the  density  of 
the  metal,  inasmuch  as  very  few,  if  any  spherical  projectiles  have 
the  centre  of  figure  and  the  centre  of  gravity  in  the  same  point 
From  this  circumstance,  whatever  may  be  the  other  causes  of 
leflection,  the  shot  or  shell,  on  leaving  the  bore,  assumes  a  rotary 
movement  (the  centre  of  figure  revolving  round  the  centre  of 
gravity)  the  effect  of  which  is  to  bring  the  resistance  of  the  air 
in  a  direction  more  or  less  oblique  with  regard  to  the  action  of 
the  powder,  and  thus  produce  greater  or  less  deviation. 

"  In  1843,  and  since  that  time,  numerous  experiments  have 
been  made  at  Washington  and  elsewhere,  which  establish  the 
governing  cause  of  deflection  beyond  doubt.  For  example  : — 
shells  have  been  cast  positively  eccentric,  and  other  methods 
have  been  resorted  to,  to  give  different  degrees  of  eccentricity  to 
shot.  At  our  naval  and  experimental  battery,  where  nice  prac 
tice  is  required  in  ascertaining  the  ranges  of  guns,  each  projectile 
is  floated  in  a  bucket  of  quicksilver,  by  which  means  its  prepon 
derating  part  is  ascertained.  The  shot  or  shell  is  then  spotted 
at  this  point,  and  strapped  to  a  wooden  bottom,  so  as  to  place 
the  heavy  part  in  a  uniform  position,  and  avoid  as  much  as  pos 
sible  the  errors  arising  from  variation  in  the  position  of  the  centre 
of  gravity.  lean  assure  you,  from  personal  experience,  that,  by 
altering  the  position  of  the  heavy  side  of  a  shot  in  its  sabot,  and 
carefully  pushing  it  home,  I  can  invariably  predict  the  side  of 


78  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


the  target  on  which  it  will  pass.  Of  course,  this  could  not  be 
done  if  the  deviations  were  principally,  or  even  materially,  affect 
ed  by  the  last  blow  of  the  ball  on  its  leaving  the  bore.  Mind 
you,  I  do  not  mean  this  as  a  criticism  on  the  '  ExcellentY  prac 
tice  ;  it  is  more  as  a  philosophical  nicety  than  a  point  of  great 
practical  importance." 

"  Thank  you,"  I  replied.  "  You  have  at  any  rate  proved  that 
you  procure  as  much  information  as  you  require  from  us  Brit 
ishers.  Pray  what  conclusions  have  you  come  to  on  this  sub 
ject  ?" 

"  I  will  give  you,"  answered  my  well  informed  American 
gunnery-officer,  "  a  brief  summary  of  the  conclusions  we  have 
come  to  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic  : 

"  First ;  if  the  centre  of  gravity  of  a  projectile  be  in  a  vertical 
plane  above  the  axis  of  the  bore,  its  position  will  be  the  most 
favorable  of  any  for  length  of  range,  and  its  lateral  deviation  will 
be  diminished. 

"  Second  ;  if  the  centre  of  gravity  be  placed  below  the  axis, 
the  range  is  uniformly  less  than  that  given  by  placing  it  in  any 
other  position. 

"  Third  ;  if  the  centre  of  gravity  be  placed  in  a  horizontal 
plane  on  the  right  or  left  of  the  axis  of  the  bore,  the  effect  is 
injurious  to  the  range,  and  the  ball  will  deflect  to  the  right  or 
left  according  to  the  position  of  its  weight.  The  exceptions  in 
lateral  divergence  are  in  the  first  graze  of  ricochet  firing.  Here, 
the  striking  of  the  ball  probably  influences  the  flight  of  the  shot 
for  a  short  time,  and  in  cases  where  its  eccentricity  is  not  great. 
It  is  somewhat  remarkable,  that,  although  the  law  of  deflection 
is  known  to  the  French  artillerists  (the  theory  being  noticed  and 
explained  by  Thioury),  nothing  is  said  about  it  in  the  publication 
of  their  experiments.  In  the  Manuel  de  Matelot  Cannoniei 
(their  gunnery  catechism),  the  question  is  asked  and  answered 
much  the  same  as  in  the  «  Excellent' s'  exercises. 


WASHINGTON  DOCK-YARD.  79 

"  In  conclusion,  I  shall  be  extremely  happy  to  exchange  ideas 
with  you  on  nautical  subjects,  in  which  sort  of  commerce,  you 
know,  we  Yankees  rather  incline  to  free- trade  principles." 

"  Thank  you  heartily,"  I  rejoined,  and  concluded  the  conver 
sation. 

It  is  quite  clear,  from  these  facts  and  others  that  came  under 
my  notice,  that  the  jealous  restrictions  at  the  Dock-yards  in 
England,  are  equally  ridiculous,  useless,  and  annoying. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

DOCK-YARD  AT  BOSTON. 

The  Dry  Dock — The  "Virginia,"  the  "  Franklin,"  the  "Vermont"  and 
the  "Ohio" — Speech  of  Charles  Sumner,  Senator  from  Massachusetts — 
A  few  Words  for  Yankee  Ears. 

THE  Dock-yard  at  Boston,  comprising  eighty-five  acres,  is 
situated  on  a  point  of  land  at  the  confluence  of  the  Charles  and 
Mystic  rivers.  The  dry  dock  is  eighty-four  feet  broad,  and  two 
hundred  and  eighty-five  feet  long.  Most  of  the  rope  used  in  the 
United  States  navy,  is  made  here  in  a  rope-walk  twelve  hundred 
feet  long,  and  fitted  with  admirable  machinery.  Two  building- 
sheds  are  also  here,  capable  of  covering  first-class  ships.  In  one 
of  these  is  the  "  Virginia,"  74,  but  mounting  80  guns.  She  is 
now  nearly  finished,  but  has  been  twenty  years  on  the  stocks 
Anchored  in  the  Charles  River  are  three  fine  two-deckers  :  the 
"  Franklin,"  74  ;  "  Vermont,"  74  ;  and  "  Ohio,"  74.  All  these 
ships  can  mount  upward  of  80  guns  of  the  heaviest  calibre. 

An  American  authority,  the  "  Boston  Courier"  thus  describes 
"  three  great  ships  of  the  line"  under  the  head  of  Naval  Intel 
ligence. 

"  There  are  now  in  this  harbor,"  says  the  Journal,  "  three 
great  ships  of  the  line  :  the  '  Ohio,'  the  '  Vermont,'  and  the 
Virginia.'  Each  one  them  may  be  said  to  be  remarkable  for 
its  model,  its  size,  and  accommodations  ;  the  excellence  of  the 
materials  of  which  it  is  composed,  its  strength  and  fitness  for  sea 
and  battle.  They  are  called  seventy-fours,  but  are  capable  of 
carrying  one  hundred  and  ten  guns  each,  together  with  a  com- 


DOCK- YARD  AT  BOSTON.  81 

plement  of  one  thousand  men,  and  all  the  provisions,  stores,  and 
munitions  for  a  three  years'  cruise,  not  omitting  twenty  tons  of 
powder  for  each  vessel.  These  costly  and  splendid  floating  cita 
dels  are  all  at  the  navy-yard  in  Charlestown,  under  the  com 
mand  of  the  officers  there  ;  and  never  fail  to  attract  the  atten 
tion  of  strangers,  and  others  in  the  Chelsea  ferry-boats  and  other 
vessels  plying  in  the  upper  harbor. 

"  Of  such  ample  depth  is  the  water  in  this  navy-yard,  that 
these  immense  line-of-battle  ships  can  lie  at  its  wharfs  at  low 
tide,  without  touching  bottom ;  and  indeed  sail  directly  from  the 
wharf  with  all  hands  on  board,  completely  armed  and  pro 
visioned  for  any  voyage." 

Such  is  the  magnificence  of  some  of  the  naval  establishments 
in  the  United  States.  Yet  though  Americans  can  not  but  be 
proud  of  so  unequivocal  a  display  of  power  and  grandeur,  it  is 
certain  that  public  feeling  among  them  is  not  wholly  absorbed 
by  the  maritime  and  military  might  of  the  Confederation,  but 
that  they  look  with  an  anxious  eye  to  the  improvement  of  their 
universities,  and  other  institutions  tending  to  the  elevation  of 
intellect  in  science,  art,  and  literature. 

In  one  of  the  speeches  of  Charles  Sumner,  Senator  from  Mas 
sachusetts,  the  Republican  orator  utters  the  following  noble  sen 
timents  : 

"  Within  a  short  distance  of  this  city  (Boston)  stands  an  in 
stitution  of  learning,  which  was  one  of  the  earliest  cares  of  the 
early  forefathers  of  the  country  :  the  conscientious  English  Puri 
tans.  Favored  child  of  an  age  of  trial  and  struggle,  carefully 
nursed  through  a  period  of  hardship  and  anxiety,  endowed  at 
that  time  by  the  oblations  of  men  like  Harvard,  sustained  from 
its  first  foundation  by  the  paternal  arm  of  the  Commonwealth, 
by  a  constant  succession  of  munificent  bequests,  and  by  the 
prayers  of  all  good  men,  the  University  at  Cambridge  now  in 
vites  our  homage  as  the  most  ancient,  the  most  interesting,  and 

D* 


82  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


the  most  important  seat  of  learning  in  the  land ;  possessing  the 
oldest  and  most  valuable  library — one  of  the  largest  museums  ol 
mineralogy  and  natural  history — a  School  of  Law,  which  an 
nually  receives  into  its  bosom  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty 
sons  from  all  parts  of  the  Union,  where  they  listen  to  instruction 
from  professors  whose  names  have  become  among  the  most 
valuable  possessions  of  the  land — a  School  of  Divinity,  the  nurse 
of  true  learning  and  piety — one  of  the  largest  and  most  flourish 
ing  Schools  of  Medicine  in  the  country  ;  besides  these,  a  general 
body  of  teachers,  twenty-seven  in  number,  many  of  whose  names 
help  to  keep  the  name  of  the  country  respectable  in  every  part 
of  the  globe,  where  science,  learning,  and  taste  are  cherished :  the 
whole  presided  over  at  this  moment  by  a  gentleman,  early  dis 
tinguished  in  public  life  by  his  unconquerable  energies  and  his 
masculine  eloquence,  at  a  later  period,  by  the  unsurpassed 
ability  with  which  he  administered  the  affairs  of  our  city,  and 
now  in  a  green  old  age,  full  of  years  and  honors,  preparing  to 
lay  down  his  present  high  trust  :*  such  is  Harvard  University ; 
and,  as  one  of  the  humblest  of  her  children,  happy  in  the  recollec 
tion  of  a  youth  nurtured  in  her  classic  retreats,  I  can  not  allude 
to  her  without  an  expression  of  filial  affection  and  respect. 

"  It  appears  from  the  last  Report  of  the  Treasurer,  that  the 
whole  available  property  of  the  University,  the  various  accumu 
lations  of  more  than  two  centuries  of  generosity,  amounts  to 
703,175  dollars  (equal  to  about  £140,000). 

"  Change  the  scene,  and  cast  your  eyes  upon  another  object. 
There  now  swings  idly  at  her  moorings,  in  this  harbor,  a  ship  of 
the  line,  the  '  Ohio,'  carrying  ninety  guns,  finished  as  late  as 
1836  for  547,888  dollars ;  repaired  only  two  years  afterward,  in 
1838,  for  $223,012 ;  with  an  armament  which  has  cost  $53,945  ; 
making  an  amount  of  834,845  dollars  as  the  actual  cost  at  this 
moment  of  that  single  ship ;  more  than  $100,000  beyond  all  the 
*  Hon.  Josiah  Quincy. 


DOCK-YABD  AT  BOSTON.  83 

available  accumulations  of  the  richest  and  most  ancient  seat  of 
learning  in  the  land  !  Choose  ye,  my  fellow-citizens  of  a  Chris 
tian  state,  between  the  two  caskets — that  wherein  is  the  loveli 
ness  of  knowledge  and  truth,  or  that  which  contains  the  carrion 
death.  I  refer  thus  particularly  to  the  '  Ohio,'  because  she  hap 
pens  to  be  in  our  waters.  But  in  so  doing  I  do  not  take  the 
strongest  case  afforded  by  our  navy.  Other  ships  have  absorbed 
still  larger  sums.  The  expense  of  the  '  Delaware,'  in  1842,  had 
been  1,051,000  dollars.  Pursue  the  comparison  still  further. 
The  expenditure  of  the  University  during  the  last  year,  for  the 
general  purposes  of  the  College,  the  instruction  of  the  under 
graduates,  and  for  the  Schools  of  Law  and  Divinity,  amount  to 
46,949  dollars.  The  cost  of  the  '  Ohio'  for  one  year  in  service, 
in  salaries,  wages,  and  provisions,  is  $220,000  ;  being  175,000 
dollars  more  than  the  annual  expenditures  of  the  University — 
more  than  four  times  as  much. 

"  In  other  words,  for  the  annual  sum  which  is  lavished  on  one 
ship  of  the  line,  four  institutions  like  Harvard  University,  might 
be  sustained  throughout  the  country  ! 

"  Still  further  let  us  pursue  the  comparison.  The  pay  of  the 
Captain  of  a  ship  like  the  '  Ohio,'  is  4500  dollars  when  in  serv 
ice  ;  $3500  when  on  leave  of  absence,  or  off  duty.  The  salary 
of  the  President  of  the  Harvard  University  is  2205  dollars,  with 
out  leave  of  absence,  and  never  being  off  duty." 

I  will  conclude  this  slight  sketch  of  a  hasty  trip  to  the  four 
great  sea-board  cities,  with  a  few  words,  intended  solely  for 
Yankee  ears,  on  the  price  and  quality  of  wine  at  the  hotels,  par 
ticularly  at  those  of  Washington.  I  can  not  imagine  why, 
with  such  admirably  conducted  and  enormous  hotels ;  with  such 
swarms  of  intelligent  travelers ;  with  such  convenient  common- 
sense  arrangements  in  all  the  usual  affairs  of  life  in  America, 
there  should  be  one  great  fault ;  namely,  the  enormous  price 
fleeced  from  travelers  for  very  indifferent  wine.  Stuff,  which  in 


84  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

England,  with  her  enormous  duties,  would  be  dear  at  half-a- 
crown  a  bottle,  is  charged  in  the  United  States  at  from  a  dollar 
and  a  half  (the  lowest  price)  up  to  twelve  dollars.  And  then, 
forsooth,  the  Yankees  often  boast  of  the  price,  and  appear  to 
think. the  extravagant  cost  a  feather  in  their  caps — something  to 
be  proud  of — something  to  elevate  themselves  and  country  ! 

I  have  bought  much  better  Cape  Madeira  in  New  York  for 
two  dollars  and  a  half  a  gallon,  than  I  have  known  a  Yankee 
Boniface  to  supply  at  five  dollars  a  bottle.  I  can  not,  for  the 
life  of  me,  understand  how  Jonathan  can  allow  himself  to  be  so 
gulled.  Certes,  he  is  green  and  soft  on  this  point,  or  he  would 
not  be  thus  over-reached. 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  "Reindeer"  Steamer — The  Hudson  .Railroad  Train  versus  Steamer — 
My  Yankee  Companions — Scenery  on  the  Shores  of  the  Hudson — Arrival 
at  Albany — Unparalleled  Facility  of  Intercommunication — Prodigious 
Traffic  on  the  Hudson — Magnificence  of  the  River  Steamers — Perma 
nent  Residence  of  Families  on  Board  the  Steamers — Arrival  at  Utica — 
Interview  with  Mr.  Fillmore,  the  President  of  the  United  States — Ab 
sence  of  Pomp — Mistaken  "Independence" — Plank  Roads — Trenton 
Falls — Lake  Ontario — Approach  to  Niagara — The  "  meanest  Railway 
in  Creation" — "  Snake-heads" — The  "Maid  of  the  Mist"  and  the  Yan 
kee  Skipper — A  violent  Squall — Suspension-bridge  below  the  Falls. 

"HiE  for  the  far  "West!"  was  my  exclamation,  as  I  walked 
aboard  a  beautiful  and  fleet  steamer — the  "  Reindeer" — which 
was  receiving  her  living  freight  for  Albany. 

While  bustling  passengers  were  hurriedly  looking  after  the 
safety  of  their  luggage,  I  hastily  scanned  the  vessel  and  the  sur 
rounding  scenery.  The  vessel  was  upward  of  three  hundred 
feet  long,  and  fitted  up  in  the  most  elegant  and  useful  manner. 
She  was  lying  alongside  a  wharf  in  the  North  or  Hudson  River. 
The  exquisite  vegetation  clothing  the  shores,  and  nearly  conceal 
ing  the  villas  of  Hoboken,  on  the  opposite  banks  of  the  river, 
formed  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  busy  hum  on  the  New  York 
side. 


86  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


At  seven  o'clock  exactly,  the  steamer  shot  out  from  her  wharf, 
and  began  her  rapid  career.  In  spite  of  a  strong  adverse  tide 
and  wind,  she  appeared  to  fly  past  the  land  at  railway  pace. 
As  I  was  hugging  myself  at  her  prodigious  speed  (sixteen  miles 
an  hour  against  the  tide,  according  to  my  calculation,  or,  in  still 
water,  at  least  twenty),  I  was  exceedingly  mortified  to  see  the 
train  of  the  Hudson  River  Railroad  overhauling  us  with  great 
celerity.  When  the  train  was  abeam  of  the  steamer,  it  slacken 
ed  pace  to  take  up  passengers  at  a  station ;  and  after  a  short 
pause,  again  proceeded,  not  only  recovering  the  ground  it  had 
lost  by  the  stoppage,  but  speedily  ranging  ahead  of  the  steamer. 
At  length,  it  shot  round  a  point  of  land,  and  vanished  from  sight, 
with  a  hoarse  and  insulting  scream.  So  much  for  the  fastest 
steamer  against  the  "  iron  horse." 

At  eight  o'clock,  the  passengers  sat  down  to  an  excellent 
breakfast,  for  which  half  a  dollar  was  charged. 

On  lighting  my  cigar,  after  the  morning  meal,  I  was  speedily 
discovered  to  be  a  "  Britisher."  Nothing  could  exceed  the  po 
liteness  of  my  Yankee  companions,  when  they  found  it  was  my 
first  voyage  up  the  Hudson.  Information  was  kindly  given  on 
every  interesting  point,  and  my  admiration  was  forestalled  for 
the  Highlands.  I  was  nevertheless  disappointed  with  this  part 
of  the  Hudson,  as  the  Highlands  are  not  half  so  grand,  either  in 
height  or  abruptness,  as  the  sides  of  Loch  Ness  in  Scotland. 

Having  been  led  to  suppose  that,  after  passing  this  part,  the 
scenery  would  become  tame  and  uninteresting,  I  was  agreeably 
disappointed.  The  land  undulates  in  an  ever-varying  and  most 
pleasing  manner,  and  is  evidently  depreciated  by  the  Americans 
in  the  same  proportion  as  the  Highlands  are  over- valued. 

A  small  party  was  assembled  on  the  fore  part  of  the  upper 
deck,  unsheltered  from  the  wind.  This  attracted  my  attention, 
as  Americans  always  carefully  avoid  fresh  air,  apparently  deem 
ing  it  poisonous.  On  a  further  inspection,  I  found  the  group  to 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  87 

be  "  Britishers  ;"  and,  as  they  are  always  more  sociable  abroad 
than  at  home,  I  speedily  became  acquainted  with  them. 

At  four  o'clock  P.M.  we  arrived  at  Albany,  having  been  nine 
hours  in  going  one  hundred  and  forty-five  miles,  against  wind 
and  tide. 

The  Hudson  River  is  one  of  the  first  great  links  in  the  stupen 
dous  chain  of  inland  transport.  I  say  one  of  the  great  links,  as 
several  other  lines  of  communication  will  soon  be  opened  tc 
Lake  Erie,  and  share  in  the  vast  and  unparalleled  intercommu 
nication.  Well  may  it  excite  feelings  of  wonder,  that,  in  a 
brief  space  of  time,  a  goodly  vessel  may  start  from  either  New 
York  or  duebec,  almost  circumnavigate  the  United  States,  and 
emerge  from  the  Mississippi  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Two 
channels  will  soon  be  opened  to  the  Mississippi  for  this  purpose ; 
one,  already  navigable  from  Chicago,  on  Lake  Michigan  ;  lln- 
other,  the  best  and  shortest,  through  Green  Bay,  Lake  Winne- 
bago,  and  the  Wisconsin  River. 

The  enormous  traffic  on  the  Hudson  is  almost  entirely  monop 
olized  by  steamers  ;  and  there  can  be  no  sort  of  doubt  that  they 
are  the  swiftest  and  best  arranged  steam  vessels  known.  The 
speed  and  size  are  improving  so  rapidly,  that  what  is  correct 
now,  may  be  far  behind  the  mark  a  year  hence.  The  "  Isaac 
Newton"  is  at  present  the  largest  river-steamer.  She  is  three 
hundred  and  thirty-three  feet  long,  forty  feet  beam.  The  saloon, 
which  is  gorgeously  decorated,  is  one  hundred  yards  long.  In 
this  vast,  vaulted  apartment,  the  huge  mirrors  elegant  carving, 
and  profuse  gilding  absolutely  dazzle  the  eye.  On  first  entering 
one  of  these  magnificent  floating  saloons,  it  is  difficult  for  the 
imagination  to  realize  its  position.  All  comparison  is  at  once 
defied,  as  there  is  nothing  equal  afloat  in  the  world.  The  old 
and  slow  boats  are  used  for  towing  the  commerce  of  the  river, 
barges  and  canal-boats  swarm  about  one  of  these  vessels  like 
bees  round  their  queen.  I  have  counted  from  fourteen  to  twenty 


TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


vessels  clinging  in  tiers  to  all  parts  of  their  concealed  conductor. 
The  funnels,  and  the  queer-looking  motion  of  the  beam,  are  the 
only  locomotive  appearance  visible  through  this  shroud  of  canal- 
boats. 

It  is  a  very  common  occurrence,  during  hot  weather,  for  fa 
milies  to  reside  permanently  on  board  the  steamers  ;  thus  enjoy 
ing  the  fresh  air  and  changing  scenery  of  their  locomotive  house, 
and  avoiding  the  dullness  of  a  stationary  hotel  on  the  bank  of 
the  river.  A  family  can  reside  permanently  on  board,  with 
a  separate  cabin  and  every  luxury  of  living,  including  a  voy 
age  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  for  about  ten  shillings 
a-head  per  diem.  This  is  certainly  the  cheapest  and  best  trav 
eling  in  the  world. 

On  arriving  at  Albany,  I  took  the  railway  cars  for  Utica 
(ninety-three  miles),  and  was  safely  deposited  at  Baggs'  Hotel, 
in  four  and  half  hours.  The  house  appeared  remarkably  quiet ; 
and  I  was  not  aware,  until  the  following  morning,  that  the  Pres 
ident  himself — the  head  of  the  American  nation — was  in  the 
hotel.  Mr.  Fillmore  had  stopped  there  since  the  previous  even 
ing,  to  rest  and  recruit  after  the  festivities  attending  the  opening 
of  the  great  Erie  Railroad.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  calmness 
and  placidity  of  the  people.  It  was  impossible  to  believe  that 
the  Chief  Magistrate  of  so  great  a  nation  was  among  them. 

As  I  was  proceeding  out  of  the  front  door,  to  engage  a  carriage 
for  Trenton  Falls,  I  was  politely  accosted  by  an  American  gen 
tleman. 

"  The  President,"  said  he,  "  will  receive  this  morning,  Sir. 
Would  you  like  to  be  presented  ?" 

"Very  much,"  I  replied.  Then,  looking  aghast  at  my  shoot 
ing-jacket  and  careless  costume,  I  added:  "But  will  not  this 
dress  prevent  my  having  that  honor  ?" 

"Not  at  all,"  replied  the  stranger  who  had  accosted  me; 
"  your  dress  is  quite  good  enough  This  is  a  free  country.  Come 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  89 

along.     Let  me  introduce  you  to  the  Mayor  of  Utica,  Colonel 
Hinman." 

I  was  then  led  by  the  Colonel  to  the  reception  room.  For 
some  minutes,  I  was  unaware  that  I  had  arrived  in  the  presence 
of  the  President.  About  twenty  grave-looking  citizens  were 
standing  together,  without  the  slightest  ceremony.  A  voice  at 
length  exclaimed:  ''Please,  Gentlemen,  those  who  have  been 
presented  to  the  President,  move  on." 

This  bidding  was  followed  by  a  grave  and  silent  movement  to 
the  door.  My  turn  at  length  came  ;  and  I  had  the  great  honor 
of  shaking  hands  with  Mr.  Fillrnore,  who  addressed  me  in  a 
manner  full  of  natural  dignity. 

"  I  am  extremely  sorry,"  said  he,  "  that  I  was  unable  to  re 
ceive  you  at  Washington,"  alluding  to  a  death  in  his  family, 
which  stopped  his  receptions. 

The  President  is  a  portly  man,  with  frank  and  simple  man 
ners.  His  countenance  bears  strong  indications  of  amiability 
and  kindness  of  heart. 

On  turning  to  retire,  I  was  invited  to  remain,  and  gladly  took 
advantage  of  the  opportunity.  The  good  citizens  continued  to 
pour  in  without  the  slightest  bustle  or  confusion.  Occasionally, 
a  lady  appeared  ;  and  all  grasped  the  President's  hand  in  a 
hearty  and  affectionate  manner. 

As  this  was  the  first  time  I  had  ever  beheld  such  a  sight, 
I  looked  on  with  intense  interest.  Although  there  was  a  con 
siderable  crowd,  and  no  police,  the  utmost  order  and  regularity 
prevailed.  In  the  course  of  my  experience,  I  never  beheld  so 
courteous  and  well-conducted  a  crowd,  altogether  forming  a  strong 
contrast  to  the  demeanor  of  the  "brilliant  mob"  in  a  similar 
ceremony  in  England.  The  only  "  military  pomp"  perceptible, 
was  a  military  man  at  each  door.  These  soldiers,  who  had 
quite  enough  to  do  in  accommodating  themselves  and  weapons  to 
the  pressure  of  the  crowd,  were  infinitely  more  solicitous  to  assist 


90  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


the  entrance  of  people  than  to  bar  them  out.  The  ceremony  last 
ed  about  an  hour  ;  after  which,  the  President,  taking  the  arms 
of  two  of  the  principal  inhabitants  of  Utica,  walked  quietly  down 
to  the  railroad-station,  without  the  slightest  fuss  or  parade. 

This  scene  gave  me  a  high  sense  of  the  propriety  and  self-pos 
session  of  the  American  people.  "  Here,"  thought  I,  "  is  dignity 
without  servility ;  a  due  sense  of  the  people's  own  position,  with 
a  proper  respect  for  their  chief  magistrate." 

But  a  contrast  was  at  hand.  A  few  weeks  later,  I  was  stand 
ing  among  a  large  crowd  in  the  principal  street  of  Newport, 
Rhode  Island,  waiting  to  see  the  President,  who  had  just  arrived, 
pass  by. 

In  a  short  time,  an  open  carriage  and  pair  approached,  con 
taining  the  President,  bareheaded,  and  three  gentlemen,  likewise 
bareheaded.  I  gazed  fixedly  at  his  amiable  and  open  counte 
nance,  and  involuntary  took  off  my  hat,  and  made  a  low  bow. 
Closely  scanning  the  crowd,  I  was  surprised  to  perceive  that  only 
one  individual  (an  English  boy)  had  the  good  feeling,  or  good 
manners,  to  remove  his  hat  in  token  of  respect  to  this  bareheaded, 
dignified  man — this  head  of  a  nation  of  so  many  millions  ! 

Americans!  This  is  said  "more  in  sorrow  than  in  anger." 
It  is  an  occasional  fault  among  you  to  sacrifice  deference  and 
consideration  to  false  ideas  of  independence  and  dignity.  I  could 
not  help  thinking  that  the  vilest  and  most  ignorant  rabble  in 
Europe  would,  in  point  of  politeness,  have  shamed  this  enlight 
ened  and  grave  crowd  of  American  citizens.  Incidents  like  these, 
tempt  ill-natured,  short-sighted  travelers  to  accuse  the  people  of 
the  United  States  of  rude  intention  and  ignorance,  the  more  to 
be  lamented  as  it  arises  merely  from  a  morbid  fear  of  looking 
servile  or  time-serving ;  for  there  was  not  a  single  person  in  that 
crowd  who  would  not  fiercely  resent  the  slightest  disrespect  on 
the  part  of  a  foreigner  to  their  President. 

As  Utica  is  only  twelve  miles  from  Trenton  Falls,  I  determined 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  91 

to  visit  them.  Great  was  my  astonishment,  on  starting,  to  find 
how  easily  and  swiftly  my  carriage  rolled  through  the  thick  mud. 
At  length  curiosity  prevailed ;  and  I  asked  the  driver  the 
reason. 

"  I  guess  it's  the  plank  road,"  said  he.  My  eyes  were  imme 
diately  opened.  As  plank  roads  are  now  playing  a  very  im 
portant  part  in  the  settlement  of  the  West,  I  shall  give  a  full  ac 
count  of  them  presently. 

Trenton  Falls  disappointed  me ;  my  expectations  had  been 
highly  excited  by  sanguine  and  enthusiastic  Yankee  friends. 

Two  hours  and  a  half  on  the  railway  cars,  the  following 
morning,  carried  me  to  Syracuse  through  Rome.  Here  we  left 
the  Buffalo  railroad,  and  entered  the  Oswego  line.  An  hour  and 
three  quarters  brought  us  to  Oswego,  on  Lake  Ontario,  where 
conveyances  were  ready  to  take  passengers  and  baggage  free  of 
expense  on  board  the  steamer.  A  very  few  minutes  sufficed  for 
this  operation ;  and  the  magnificent  steamer  stood  out  on  Lake 
Ontario,  bound  to  Niagara  Falls.  A  strong  breeze  and  heavy 
sea  somewhat  retarded  the  vessel's  speed ;  but  the  next  morn 
ing,  at  five  o'clock,  after  a  thirteen  hours'  passage,  including  a 
stoppage  at  G-enesee  River,  she  was  safely  moored  at  Lewiston 
wharf.  The  travelers  and  their  effects  were  transferred  to  what 
a  tall  Yankee  described  as  "  the  meanest  railway  in  creation." 
After  a  painful  toil  of  an  hour  and  a  half,  doing  nine  miles,  the 
train  at  length  came  in  sight  of  the  Great  Niagara. 

With  earnest  haste,  I  thrust  my  head  out  of  the  car  to  catch  a 
glimpse.  An  envious  cluster  of  trees  for  the  moment  interrupted 
my  gaze  ;  I  saw  enough,  however,  to  show  that  the  train  was  in 
disagreeable  proximity  to  the  side  of  the  precipice.  My  head 
was  within  a  few  inches  of  the  edge  of  a  crumbling  cliff",  peering 
over  a  fearful  abyss. 

To  write  about,  or  attempt  to  give,  an  adequate  idea  of  Nia 
gara,  is  impossible.  I  will  content  myself  with  describing  (for 


TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


the  comfort  of  future  visitors)  the  afore-mentioned  "  meanest  rail 
way  in  creation,"  with  a  few  remarks  upon  its  adjuncts,  and  my 
own  personal  encounter  with  Niagara  itself. 

First,  the  railway.  From  the  single  glimpse  caught  en  pas 
sant,  I  determined  to  inspect  it  narrowly  from  the  Falls  to  the 
suspension- bridge,  and  found  that  many  of  the  sleepers  are  rotten, 
and  the  rail  wedged  in  loosely  with  rotten  wood.  Several  of  the 
spike-nails,  which  ought  to  bind  the  strip  of  iron  rail  to  the  wood 
foundation,  have  worked  out.  Some  of  the  ends  of  the  rail  are 
altogether  loose,  and  raised  up  half  an  inch  and  more.  These,  I 
believe,  are  technically  termed  in  Yankee  language,  "  snake- 
heads."  Fortunately,  the  speed  is  no  speed,  being  only  about 
ten  or  twelve  miles  an  hour.  At  the  edge  of  the  precipice  at 
this  point,  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  I  attempted, 
with  a  large  stone,  to  drive  the  end  of  the  rail  firmly  down. 
Vain  were  all  my  efforts,  as  the  spike-nail  was  driven  into  de 
cayed  wood.  I  measured  the  distance  of  this  part  from  the  edge 
of  the  cliff,  and  found  it  barely  two  feet  six.  So  careless  and 
reprehensible  a  state  of  things  admits  of  no  excuse.  The  cars 
are  usually  crammed  with  passengers,  not  one  of  whom  would 
ever  trust  his  life  to  such  "tender  mercies,"  if  he  had  investi 
gated  the  road  as  carefully  as  I  did. 

The  "  Maid  of  the  Mist"  is  a  little  steamer,  about  one  hundred 
tons,  whose  limited  sphere  of  action  lies  between  the  foot  of  the 
Falls  and  the  narrow  chasm  which  forms  the  rapids  before  tum 
bling  into  the  whirpool — a  distance  of  barely  two  thousand  five 
hundred  yards.  Before  describing  my  adventure  under  the  Falls, 
it  may  be  well  to  observe  that  the  rush  of  water  through  the 
contracted  passage  or  chasm,  is  intensely  exciting.  The  whirl 
pool — so  much  vaunted — is  not  to  be  compared  to  Coryvreckan 
in  Scotland  ;  the  Swelkie  of  Stroma,  in  the  Pentland  Firth ;  or 
many  places  in  the  Race  of  Alderney.  The  whirlpool  is  appa 
rently  a  tame,  exhausted,  and  sluggish  movement  of  the  fatigued 


THE  REMOTF  SETTLEMENTS.  93 

element,  after  the  "  eternal  catastrophe,"  to  use  a  Yankeeism,  of 
the  appalling  leap  of  Niagara. 

The  "Maid  of  the  Mist"  was  lashed  alongside  the  Yankee 
shore,  a  short  distance  above  the  suspension-bridge,  which  crosses 
the  river  about  a  mile  and  a  half  below  the  Falls.  A  party  of 
twenty  embarked  in  her,  all  in  high  glee  to  get  close  to  the 
mighty  "squash."  Pushing  off  from  the  banks,  she  struggled  up 
the  stream,  carefully  taking  advantage  of  the  eddy  along  shore. 
I  was  highly  amused  at  the  Yankee  skipper's  account,  to  his 
anxious  and  excited  passengers,  of  the  strength  of  the  current. 
All  were  desirous  of  carrying  home  every  tittle  of  wonder  they 
could  gather. 

"  I  guess,"  answered  the  Captain  to  one  of  the  numerous  ques 
tions,  "  I  guess  that  the  current  runs  fourteen  knots." 

This  was  swallowed  by  the  passengers,  many  of  whom  were 
taking  notes. 

"  Pray,  what  is  the  speed  of  this  boat  ?"  inquired  I. 

"  Twenty  knots,"  was  the  prompt  reply. 

Down  went  this  answer  in  the  tablets,  particularly  of  the 
Yankee  passengers,  who,  with  proud  and  elated  looks,  seemed 
resolved  to  circulate  the  fact  far  and  wide,  to  the  glorification  of 
Niagara  and  of  Yankeedom. 

I  am  sorry  to  dispel  the  poetical  illusion.  The  utmost  speed 
of  the  current  is  seven  knots  ;  and  of  the  "  Maid  of  the  Mist,"  per 
haps  eight  or  nine,  though  she  is  mightily  assisted  in  her  upward 
course  by  the  eddies. 

Upward  climbed  the  steamer,  slowly  struggling  against  the 
descending  waters.  At  length  she  approached  the  lesser,  or 
American  Fall.  At  this  moment,  the  gentlemen,  enveloped  in 
waterproof  dresses,  ascended  the  raised  deck  or  platform,  to  enjoy 
a  close,  and  of  course,  clear  and  admirable  view  of  the  Fall.  As 
I  considered  my  feelings  on  this  occasion  were  similar  to  those 
of  my  companions,  I  will  describe  them. 


94  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


"  Now  then,"  thought  I,  being,  in  the  elation  of  the  moment, 
smitten  with  a  mock-heroical  vein,  "  I  will  stare  this  stupendous 
gutter  out  of  countenance  !  I  will  emulate  the  eagle  and  the 
sun  !  I  will  gaze,  and  be  satisfied  !" 

Gradually  the  vessel  drew  alongside  the  falling  waters.  I 
was  afterward  informed  by  an  overlooker  on  the  cliffs  that  we 
did  not  come  within  fifty  yards.  Suddenly  a  violent  squall, 
filled  with  spray,  struck  the  steamer,  causing  her  to  heel  over. 
I  was  completely  drenched  ;  the  waterproof  garments  being  forced 
from  my  tight  embrace.  I  could  hardly  breathe,  and  could  see 
nothing.  Forgetting  Niagara,  my  whole  thoughts  were  occupied 
in  tightly  clinging  to  the  benches.  And  thus  I  passed  the  outer 
and  least  violent  edge  of  the  spray,  which  is  caused  by  a  turbu 
lent  wind,  generated  by  the  weight  and  power  of  the  falling 
water,  and  confined,  as  far  as  I  could  judge,  to  about  seventy- 
five  yards  from  the  base  of  the  cliff. 

The  suspension-bridge  below  the  Falls  affords  the  best  view 
of  the  chasm-rapids,  and  is  well  worth  crossing.  I  was  rather 
astonished  at  the  extravagant  charge  (25  cents,  equal  to  Is.  Id.)  ; 
and  in  consequence  made  inquiries  about  the  cost  of  erection. 
It  is  but  fair  to  give  the  public  the  benefit  of  this  investigation, 
although*!  do  not  pledge  myself  to  exactness.  I  am,  however, 
very  near  the  mark. 

Capital  subscribed,  25,000  dollars;  equal  to  about  £5000. 
The  average  daily  receipts,  all  the  year  round  (the  excess  in  the 
summer  making  up  the  deficiency  in  winter),  are — carriages, 
twelve,  at  half  a  dollar  (2s.  2d.)  each.  This  would  make  six 
dollars  (£l  5s.)  The  gate-keeper  informed  me  that  the  passen 
ger-traffic  was  three  times  this  amount.  Total,  twenty-four  dol 
lars  per  diem,  or  nearly  five  pounds  ;  equal,  roughly,  to  £1825, 
or  9125  dollars. 

It  is  said  that  the  architect  only  required  five  per  cent,  in 
money  down,  taking  six  per  cent,  for  the  remainder.  If  this  is 


THE  EEMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  95 

the  case,  the  greedy  proprietors  divide  something  like  £1542  per 
annum,  on  an  outlay  of  £250 ;  and,  be  it  remembered,  with  a 
constantly  increasing  traffic.  This  is  worth  the  attention  of  En 
glish  capitalists,  as  another  bridge  might  be  built  in  a  more  at 
tractive  position,  nearer  the  base  of  the  Fall. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Buffalo — Wonderful  Growth  of  the  Western  States — Embark  in  a  Steamer 
for  Michigan — Thirteen  hundred  Emigrants  for  the  Far  West — Arrival 
at  Detroit — Lake  Steamers  bribed  by  the  Michigan  Central  Railway — 
Statistics  of  the  Lake  Trade — Irish  Emigrants — An  American  Settler  in 
the  Far  West — Population  of  Detroit — Insane  Spirit  of  Speculation — 
Extraordinary  judicial  Trial  at  Detroit. 

FROM  the  Falls  to  Buffalo,  the  distance  is  twenty-two  miles. 
Buffalo  is  the  great  port  where  the  majority  of  emigrants  con 
centrate  to  go  to  the  fertile  plains  of  the  West,  and  it  is  one  of  the 
most  extraordinary  places  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  The  numher 
of  emigrants  from  this  spot  can  not  be  well  estimated,  but  a 
high  authority  has  calculated  that  it  could  not  be  less  than  one 
million  of  human  beings  per  annum,  and  still  it  is  increasing. 
This  gives  some  idea  of  the  enormous  growth  of  the  Western 
States.  I  believe  that  the  greatest  emigration  in  ancient  times 
was  that  of  the  Jews  from  Egypt.  This  emigration  amounted, 
in  the  whole,  to  six  hundred  thousand  adult  men,  or,  perhaps, 
with  women  and  children  together,  about  two  million ;  but  here 
was  an  annual  emigration  of  one  million,  and  it  is  increasing 
year  by  year.  It  is  likely,  by-and-by,  to  increase  to  two  million 
per  annum.  My  great  object  was  to  get  into  the  stream  of 
emigration,  and  I  went  early  in  the  morning  to  Buffalo,  and  took 
my  passage  in  one  of  the  largest  steamers  plying  between  Buf 
falo  and  Michigan.  When  I  went  on  board  at  three  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  there  were  no  less  than  five  hundred  passengers 
on  board  ;  and  I  had  an  admirable  cabin,  and  large  four-post 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  97 

bed  in  it,  with  a  large  window  looking  out  on  the  sea.  I  thought 
that  five  hundred  passengers  must  be  a  large  cargo,  but  until 
nine  at  night  they  still  continued  coming  in,  and  I  was  told  that 
about  thirteen  hundred  were  on  board.  They  were  principally 
emigrants  from  Europe,  who  had  concentrated  from  Boston,  New 
York,  Philadelphia,  and  other  seaport  cities ;  and  at  ten  o'clocK 
at  night  we  sailed.  I  saw  nine  other  steamers  pass  out  before 
us,  all  apparently  as  crammed  as  we  were.  We  arrived  at 
Detroit,  a  distance  of  three  hundred  miles,  at  four  o'clock  the 
next  evening ;  and  in  the  meantime  I  ascertained  something 
about  these  emigrants.  A  great  number  were  from  Ireland, 
very  few  from  England,  but  many  Norwegians,  Germans  and 
Dutch,  and  a  great  number  from  the  Eastern  States,  Maine,  New 
Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  and  Connecticut ;  for  they  fancied 
that  the  climate  and  soil  in  the  Western  States  was  so  much 
better  than  their  own,  that  they  had  better  leave  a  place  where 
there  was  hardly  elbow  room,  and  repair  to  another  where  they 
could  make  their  fortunes.  Thus,  it  was  not  only  the  emigration 
from  Europe,  but  that  from  the  Eastern  States,  which  caused  the 
Western  States  to  rise  so  rapidly. 

I  was  informed  that  several  of  the  finest  lake  steamers,  which 
last  year  daily  started  to  go  round  the  great  chain  of  lakes, 
namely,  Erie,  Huron,  and  Michigan,  a  distance  of  one  thousand 
miles,  had  been  bought  off  with  a  bribe  of  70,000  dollars,  by 
the  Michigan  Central  Railway  ;  whose  interests  were  much  im 
proved  by  the  stopping  of  the  boats  at  their  eastern  terminus, 
Detroit. 

A  brief  account  of  the  lake  trade  will  give  some  interesting 
particulars. 

The  following  table,  derived  from  an  official  source,  affords  a 
good  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  a  portion  of  the  internal  trade  of 
the  United  States.  "The  aggregate  valuation  of  our  lake  trade,' 
says  the  above-named  document,  ''for  the  year  1850  (imports 

E 


98  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


and  exports)  amounts,  it  will  be  seen,  to  the  large  sum  of  186,- 
484,905  dollars;  or  more,  by  40,000,000  dollars,  than  the 
whole  foreign  export  trade  of  the  country." 

The  aggregate  tonnage  employed  on  the  lakes  of  the  United 
States  is  equal  to  203,041  tons,  of  which  167,137  tons  is  Ameri 
can,  and  35,904  tons  British.  The  commerce  on  Lakes  Erie, 
Huron,  Michigan,  Ontario,  Champlain,  and  St.  Clair  is  as  fol 
lows  : 


TOTAL  VALUE  OF  EXPORTS  AND  IMPORTS. 


Dollars. 

Erie          115,785,048 

Huron      848,152 

Michigan 24,320,481 


Dollars. 


Ontario        28,141,000 

Champlain 16,750,700 

St.  Clair      639,524 


Showing  a  total  value  of  186,484,905  dollars,  as  above  stated. 
To  this  must  be  added  the  passenger  trade  of  the  lakes,  valued 
at  1,000,000  dollars. 

The  aggregate  value  of  the  tonnage  of : 

Dollars. 

Lake  Erie  is       5,308,085 

Lake  Huron        75,000 

Lake  Michigan 564,435 

The  mind  is  lost  in  astonishment  at  so  prodigious  a  commerce. 
It  is  not  ten  years  since  the  first  steamer  ran  round  the  chain  of 
lakes.  Population,  and  its  commercial  concomitants,  are  in 
creasing  so  rapidly,  that  before  twenty  years  the  lake  trade 
alone  will  be  of  greater  extent  and  importance,  than  the  whole 
trade  of  any  other  nation  on  the  globe  ! 

During  the  voyage  I  questioned  several  of  the  emigrants. 
Most  of  the  natives  and  Canadians  were  bound  for  Wisconsin, 
Illinois,  and  Iowa.  The  Irish  appeared  uncertain  and  wayworn, 
and  were  huddled  up  in  squalid  masses,  looking,  as  usual,  utterly 
wretched. 


THE  REMOTE   SETTLEMENTS. 


Among  the  numerous  stalwart  rifle-bearers,  I  was  much  struck 
with  the  appearance  of 'one,  who,  eighteen  years  ago,  had  shoul 
dered  his  rifle,  taking  his  young  wife  by  the  hand,  and  gone  into 
the  woods  of  Michigan. 

"  I  have  a  nice  farm  now,"  said  he ;  "  but  we  still  live  in  the 
settler's  log-house.  You  will,  however,  have  a  hearty  welcome, 
when  you  come,  and  the  sooner  the  better." 

In  the  course  of  conversation  I  found  he  was  returning  from 
the  East,  with  some  beautiful  merino  sheep.  For  four  of  these 
animals,  which  he  had  imported  from  France,  he  had  paid  1000 
dollars.  This  gentleman  (for  gentleman  he  was,  both  in  man 
ner  and  education)  is  a  favorable  specimen  of  the  rising  class  of 
American  farmers.  Mr.  Gale,  of  Ypsilanti,  may,  therefore,  be 
taken  as  a  type  of  what  a  great  statesman  calls  "the  ballast  of 
the  United  States,"  or  the  educated  and  intelligent  small  land 
owners. 

The  population  of  the  city  of  Detroit  has  increased,  during  the 
last  ten  years,  from  eleven  thousand  to  twenty-six  thousand ;  an 
advance  which  is  mainly  owing  to  the  facilities  aflbrded  by  the 
Michigan  Central  Railroad,  for  concentrating  the  emigrants  from 
many  routes  on  their  way  to  the  West.  An  absurd  spirit  of 
speculation  has  likewise  contributed  to  the  increase.  Land,  for 
building-lots,  is  now  valued  at  higher  prices  than  a  city  ten 
times  as  large  could  warrant.  This  spirit  of  speculation  is  now 
the  curse  of  the  Western  States.  Five  years  ago,  the  land  in 
question  was  quite  as  well  situated  for  building  upon  as  at 
present ;  it  has,  however,  increased  from  thirty  dollars  a  lot  to  a 
thousand.  So  great  an  inflation  and  imaginary  value,  cause 
individuals  to  fancy  themselves  enormously  wealthy.  If  pushed 
for  money  they  will  borrow  at  10  and  12  per  cent  per  annum. 
Nay,  I  have  known  from  4  to  8  per  cent  per  month  given  to 
enable  parties  to  hold  lots,  which  will  not  be  available  as  pro 
ductive  property  for  many  years  to  come. 


100  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


This  mania  is  now  (May,  1851)  raging  furiously  all  over  the 
Union ;  but  the  chief  madness  appears  to  dwell  in  the  far  "West. 
A  fearful  crash  must  ensue.  In  some  parts,  the  farming  lands 
are  enveloped  in  the  vortex  of  rash  schemes  ;  and  so  insane  are 
some  of  the  proprietors,  that  they  have  actually  borrowed  money 
at  enormous  interest  for  further  speculations.  The  madness  is 
similar  (but  with  less  foundation)  to  the  railway  mania  in  Lon 
don  of  '45  and  '46  ;  and  will  be  followed  by  as  bad,  if  not  worse 
results.  I  do  not  think  the  explosion  can  be  far  distant,  as  the 
absurd  prices  to  which  land  has  risen,  is  scaring  the  stream  of 
emigration  from  the  territory  so  cursed.  The  speculators  are 
committing  suicide  with  a  vengeance.  The  only  salvation  for 
these  speculators  is  the  continued  increase  of  vast  swarms  of 
emigrants,  with  money,  from  Europe,  which  may  be  the  case,  as 
a  far  superior  and  more  wealthy  class  is  beginning  to  appreciate 
the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  rich  alluvial  plains  of 
Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  other  Western  States. 

During  my  brief  stay  at  Detroit  a  singular  trial  was  in  pro 
gress  ;  so  singular  and  altogether  unprecedented,  that  I  could  not 
refrain  from  attending  the  Court. 

It  appeared  that  an  individual  had  conceived  some  spite 
against  the  newly  opened  Michigan  Central  Railway.  To  glut 
his  violent  and  deadly  animosity,  he  determined  to  destroy  the 
whole  concern,  passengers  and  all ;  and,  in  the  prosecution  of 
his  purpose,  he  formed  a  secret  society  of  villains  to  the  number 
of  fifty-two.  So  skillfully  was  this  society  managed,  that,  for 
two  years,  the  members  were  enabled  to  bid  defiance  to  the  law, 
although  the  existence  of  the  infamous  gang  was  well  known. 
During  this  period  they  committed  a  series  of  depredations,  such 
as  burning  the  railway  depot  at  Detroit,  valued  at  upward  of 
£20,000,  and  placing  obstructions  on  the  line,  in  hope  of  killing 
the  passengers,  in  order  to  ruin  the  railway. 

At  length,  the  railway  proprietors  attacked  them  with  their 


THE  REMOTE  'f?firrT.U: MINTS'.  101 


own  weapons,  and  got  severe!  ^'Vewd  pffi&ia'ls  to  threaten  ven 
geance  for  some  imaginary  grievance.  The  bait  took  with  the 
gang,  who,  determined  once  again  to  burn  down  the  newly- 
erected  depot,  entered  into  communication  with  some  of  the 
officials.  After  a  long  and  cautious  negotiation,  the  conspira 
tors  decided  to  admit  one  of  the  apparently  disaffected  officials 
into  the  gang,  if  he  proved  himself  worthy  such  an  honor.  The 
test  of  his  worth  was,  to  bum  down  one  of  the  buildings  of  the 
railroad  company. 

Having  first  communicated  with  the  Directors,  the  building 
was  set  on  fire  ;  but  precautions  had  been  taken  to  prevent  any 
damage.  An  alarm  was  nevertheless  bruited  abroad,  far  and 
near. 

The  gang  now  considered  their  new  associate  sufficiently  im 
plicated  to  be  part  of  themselves  ;  and,  the  proprietors  speedily 
becoming  acquainted  with  the  names  of  all  the  conspirators,  the 
whole  gang,  numbering  fifty-two  persons,  were  apprehended  and 
thrown  into  prison.  Among  them  wrere  several,  who  up  to  this 
time  had  borne  high  characters,  and  were  esteemed  by  their 
neighbors  as  persons  of  influence  and  consideration.  All  sorts  of 
diabolical  instruments  were  found  ;  principally  to  blow  up  trains, 
passengers  and  all. 

Such  blind  and  infernal  wickedness  in  a  civilized  country  is 
difficult  to  believe,  or  even  imagine. 

As  the  ramifications  of  this  conspiracy  extended  far  and  wide, 
it  was  difficult  to  ascertain  the  real  facts ;  but  some  persons  as 
serted,  with  an  appearance  of  truth,  that  the  conspirators  felt 
aggrieved  because  their  cattle  and  horses  had  been  killed  by  the 
locomotives,  and  wanted  not  only  payment  for  the  cattle  destroy 
ed,  but  a  bribe  or  indemnification  of  100,000  dollars  (£20,000),  to 
withdraw  their  hostility.  Others  went  still  further,  and  actu 
ally  took  their  part  !  I  was  not  much  surprised  at  the  latter, 
as  I  was  once  accidentally  present  at  a  serenade  given  to  a  noto- 


102  L,  TQCft  IN,  .  AME  Rl C A. 


iiidier,  on- his:  wriggling  o lit  of  the  hands  of  justice.  This 
man,  who  had  cheated  several  brokers  in  Wall-street,  to  the 
amount  of  £12,000,  escaped  through  some  technical  flaw.  These 
are  the  means  by  which  Brother  Jonathan  gets  a  bad  name,  to 
Uis  great  loss,  as  the  following  anecdote  will  prove. 

An  English  gentleman  landed  in  New  York  on  the  day  of  the 
swindle.  He  had  crossed  the  Atlantic  with  the  intention  of  in 
vesting  £.100,000  in  America  ;  but  hearing  of  the  above  knavish 
transaction,  he  waited  cautiously  for  the  result  of  the  trial ;  when, 
finding  that  the  law  did  not  reach  the  swindler,  he  buttoned  up 
his  pocket,  and  took  his  passage  home. 

To  return  to  the  conspiracy  case,  which,  previously  to  my  de 
parture  from  the  United  States,  was  concluded.  The  trial  com 
menced  the  day  I  arrived  at  Detroit,  and  concluded  on  the  25th 
of  September,  lasting  eighty  days.  Twelve  of  the  prisoners  were 
found  guilty,  and  condemned  to  various  terms  of  imprisonment, 
from  five  to  ten  years. 

Some  of  the  evidence  is  so  extraordinary,  and  evinces  such  an 
infernal  intention,  that  I  have  taken  a  few  extracts. 

At  a  place  called  the  "  Dry  Marsh,"  there  was  a  very  sharp 
curve.  This  dry  marsji  was  composed  of  a  thin  layer  of  earth, 
floating  on  the  surface  of  a  lake  one  hundred  feet  deep.  Here,  in 
the  worst  part  of  the  curve,  an  obstruction  was  placed  on  the  rail, 
with  the  intention  of  launching  the  passenger-train  into  this  hor 
rible  abyss. 

"  "Westcott,  cross-examined  by  Senator  Seward. — Have  heard 
Filley,  Corwin,  Jack  Freeland,  and  Woliver,  speak  of  getting  the 
cars  off  at  the  Dry  Marsh.  Filley.  spoke  first,  and  said,  '  It  will 
bury  the  locomotive.  It  will  bury  the  whole  train.  They  won't 
want  coffins,  or  sextons  either.'  " 

A  short  passage  from  the  admirable  address  of  the  counsel  for 
the  prosecution,  is  worth  extraction. 

"  At  the  point,"  said  he,  "  where  this  obstruction  was  placed, 


THE   REMOTE   SETTLEMENTS.  103 

the  railroad  struck  on  a  curve,  with  a  descending  grade,  to  the 
west.  The  curve  obstructs  the  view  of  the  road,  while  the  de 
scent  renders  it  impossible  to  check  the  speed  of  a  train  approach 
ing  from  the  east.  It  is  proved  that  at  this  point  of  the  road, 
beneath  a  thin  stratum  of  soft,  marshy  soil,  slumbers  a  concealed 
Jake  of  nearly  one  hundred  feet  in  depth.  At  the  sharpest  point 
of  the  curve,  on  the  most  dangerous  part  of  the  marsh,  just  where 
the  effect  would  be  most  fatal,  was  this  obstruction  placed.  The 
freight-train,  which,  by  a  miracle,  escaped  destruction,  came  un 
expectedly.  This  circumstance,  as  well  as  the  admission  of  those 
found  near  the  spot,  proves  that  it  was  for  the  passenger-train, 
heavily  laden  as  it  is  at  this  time  of  year,  that  this  hellish  snare 

was  laid When  the  '  Dexter'  locomotive  approached 

the  Dry  Marsh  at  a  slow  rate,  the  obstruction  was  discovered  ; 
but  not  in  season  to  stop  the  train  arid  avoid  it.  When  the  engine 
had  been  reversed,  and  the  breaks  put  on  with  the  energy  of 
despair,  it  became  evident  that  it  was  of  no  avail,  and  two  men 
sprung  off.  By  a  miracle,  the  train  was  not  thrown  off  the  rail. 
The  engineer,  Spaulding,  struggled  bravely  to  stop  the  engines, 
and  at  last  succeeded.  At  this  moment,  up  comes  Fitch,  and 
says,  'What's  the  matter,  Spaulding?'  'Some  hyena,'  replies 
he,  '  has  obstructed  the  road.'  Fitch  then  remarks,  '  By  God,  yon 
never  can  run  your  cars  over  this  road  until  you  pay  for  cattle.' 
Spaulding  remonstrates  against  this  mode  of  obtaining  redress, 
and  urges  his  innocence  of  wrong,  and  the  injustice  of  endanger 
ing  his  life.  To  this,  one  of  the  company  replies,  '  We  would  as 
soon  kill  you  as  any  one.'  " 

Another  redoubtable  scheme  was  to  biota  up  the  train. 

"  Henry  Phelps  examined. — Fitch  asked  me  if  I  had  seen  a 
new  work  of  '  internal  improvement?  that  Doctor  Farnham  wa? 
getting  up.  He  showed  me  three  tin  tubes,  one  inch  in  diameter 
at  one  end,  and  one-fourth  inch  at  the  other,  and  sixteen  or 
eighteen  inches  long.  Said  he.  '  They  are  going  to  be  placed  in 


104  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


connection  with  a  magazine  under  the  road,  to  blow  up  the  cars 
as  they  pass.' 

"  Henry  Phelps.  examined  by  Van  Arman. — Filley  described 
the  match  for  burning  the  depot  at  Detroit.  It  was  made  of  a 
tube,  containing  several  holes  lengthways,  and  filled  with  com 
bustibles.  There  were  small  holes  in  the  centre,  glazed,  and 
varnished,  and  filled  with  turpentine  ;  then  sealed  up.  "When  the 
fire  penetrated  the  holes,  or  chimneys,  from  the  other  end,  it 
would  melt  the  wax,  and  communicate  with  the  turpentine. 

The  observations  of  these  ruffians,  after  throwing  a  train  off  the 
rail,  have  a  dash  of  recklessness,  at  once  ludicrous  and  grim. 

"Great  fun,"  says  one,  "  to  hunt  coons;  that  coon  ran  away 
last  night,  but  left  its  tail" — meaning  the  cars. 

"  I  am  very  fond  of  coon-hunting,"  says  another ;  "  it  is  capital 
sport.  A  bar  and  a  sledge  are  the  best  things  in  the  world  to 
hunt  such  game.  Dry  weather,  very,  when  coons  run  off  their 
track  to  drink" — alluding  to  a  locomotive  having  been  forced  off 
the  rail  into  a  pond. 

But  enough  of  such  frightful  and  reckless  villainy. 


CHAPTER,  III. 

An  "Irish  Jontleman" — The  Michigan  Central  Railway — Dreary  Road — 
Unhealthiness  of  the  Michigan  Forest-land — The  Fox  and  the  Poultry — 
The  inland  Sea  of  Michigan — Arrival  at  Chicago — Wonderful  Increase 
of  Population  in  this  City — Its  advantageous  Site  in  Respect  of  the  Chain 
of  Lakes — A  rival  Route — Handsome  Villas  in  Chicago,  and  the  horrible 
Odor  to  which  they  are  exposed — Submerged  Prairies — Luxuriant  Growth 
— Pork  Trade  of  the  West — Lake-steamers — Embryo  Cities — Arrival  at 
Milwaukie — Wonderful  Progress  of  that  City — Fictitious  Value  of  Land — 
Dangerous  Harbor  of  Milwaukie — Practicability  of  floating  Breakwaters 
in  the  Lake-harbors — Magnificent  Position  of  Green  Bay — Great  Advan 
tages  appertaining  to  the  town  of  Menasha. 

THE  following  morning,  as  I  was  dressing  to  go  by  the  railway, 
which  was  the  scene  of  the  villainy  described  in  the  last  chapter, 
I  was  disturbed  by  a  loud  knocking  at  my  door.  Upon  inquiry, 
I  was  thus  answered  : 

"  I'm  an  Irish  jontleman,  and  want  half  a  dollar." 

"  What  for  ?"  demanded  I,  opening  the  door. 

"  For  cleaning  them  shoes,"  was  the  reply.  "  Come,  give  me 
the  money." 

The  shoes  in  question  were  quite  wet,  and  only  a  small  por 
tion  of  the  dirt  had  been  removed.  I  merely  mention  this  as  the 
only  instance  I  ever  met  with  of  incivility,  at  an  American  hotel. 
Of  course,  I  reported  him  to  the  proprietor. 

The  Michigan  Central  Railway  is  indeed  a  well-conducted  and 
highly-creditable  affair.  With  a  uniform  speed  of  eighteen  miles 
an  hour,  it  is  punctual  and  safe.  In  the  old  countries  of  the 
world,  it  is  very  difficult  to  realize  the  fact  of  so  good  a  railway 

E* 


106  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


through  primeval  forests.  The  road  is  extremely  dreary.  For 
miles,  we  swept  through  dark  and  dripping  woods  ;  sometimes 
over  half-cleared  fields,  rendered  hideous  by  the  remains  of  rotten 
and  blackened  stumps.  Several  neat  and  thriving  villages  were 
visible  on  the  route,  half-smothered  in  luxuriant  foliage.  The  ex 
cessive  exuberance  of  the  vegetation,  the  oozy  richness  of  the  soil, 
and  the  flat,  interminable  plain,  indicate  to  the  most  careless  ob 
server,  that  malaria,  fever,  and  ague  are  indigenous  to  the  Michi 
gan  forest-land. 

Wild  turkeys,  quails,  pigeons,  and  innumerable  squirrels,  were 
constantly  seen,  as  the  cars  rushed  roaring  through  the  dismal 
solitudes. 

On  stopping  at  one  of  the  stations,  a  loud  cackling  was  heard 
in  a  baggage-truck.  The  poultry  with  which  it  was  crammed 
appeared  violently  excited.  Loud  and  incessant  was  the  outcry. 
An  immediate  examination  revealed  a  sly  and  cunning  reynard, 
who,  the  moment  the  door  was  opened,  frisked  his  brush,  and 
levanted  into  the  woods.  He  must  have  jumped  in  at  the  last 
station,  without  being  perceived.  No  damage,  however,  had 
been  done,  as  reynard  had  doubtless  been  too  much  frightened  by 
the  jar  and  motion  to  commence  operations. 

Twelve  hours,  at  a  steady  uniform  rate,  brought  the  train  to 
New  Buffalo — a  port  on  Lake  Michigan.  A  steamer  was  ready 
to  convey  the  travelers  to  Chicago.  In  half  an  hour,  the  freight 
was  embarked,  and  the  steamer  stood  out  into  the  inland  sea  of 
Michigan.  Having  stopped  a  few  minutes  at  a  small  port  in  In 
diana,  she  resumed  her  course  ;  and,  after  three  hours'  steaming 
across  the  bottom  of  the  lake,  arrived  at  Chicago. 

This  city  is  one  of  those  extraordinary  phenomena  peculiar  to 
young  America.  It  has  increased  in  population  from  three  thou 
sand  in  1840  to  above  twenty  thousand  in  1850.  So  enormous 
a  growth  is  mainly  owing  to  its  advantageous  site  at  the  head  of 
the  navigation  of  the  chain  of  lakes.  At  present,  it  possesses 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  107 

the  only  communication  between  the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi 
and  has  taken  full  advantage  of  its  position  in  reference  to 
these  vast  and  comprehensive  thoroughfares.  I  "guess,"  how 
ever,  that  its  glory  will  be  very  much  curtailed,  if  not  eclipsed, 
by  the  new  and  far  preferable  route  through  Green  Bay  and  Lake 
Winnebago. 

The  ground  on.  which  Chicago  is  built,  is  low  and  swampy — 
almost  even  with  the  waters  of  the  lake.  A  long  row  of  hand 
some  villas  has  recently  sprung  into  existence  on  the  lake  shore. 
These  elegant  buildings  challenge  the  attention  of  a.  stranger,  and 
would  command  his  admiration  if  there  was  no  sea-breeze.  Un 
fortunately  this  wind  was  blowing  at  the  time  I  took  my  first 
promenade,  and  the  odor  which  it  put  into  activity  was  horri 
ble.  I  can  compare  it  to  nothing  but  the  fish-market  at  Aber 
deen,  out  of  whose  harbor  I  was  once  driven  in  my  yacht  from 
a  similar  cause.  On  examination,  I  found  that  all  the  offal,  and 
other  fetid  matter,  was  usually  deposited  <pn  the  shore  of  the  lake, 
invitingly  close  to  the  drawing-room  windows  of  the  Yankee 
aristocracy. 

"  Heavens,  what  a  taste  !"  exclaimed  I.  "  Let  us  be  off. 
What  queer  people  these  Yankees  are  to  endure  such  a  nasty 
neighborhood  !" 

I  have,  however,  remarked  that  when  a  nuisance  arrives  at  a 
certain  pitch,  Brother  Jonathan  corrects  it  "  pretty  smart,  I 
guess." 

The  prairies,  with  which  Chicago  is  immediately  surrounded, 
were  at  this  time  almost  submerged.  Vast  droves  of  cattle 
were  feeding  on  the  rank  and  luxuriant  grass ;  and  I  was  in 
formed  that  so  thick  is  the  growth  that  it  is  cut  for  hay,  without 
being  in  the  least  deteriorated  by  the  grazing  of  the  kine. 

Chicago  is  a  remarkable  example  of  the  sudden  and  complete 
changes  caused  by  quick  transit,  and  modern  legislation.  This 
oily  is  the  chief  commercial  town  of  the  State  of  Illinois.  "Within 


108 


TOUR   IN  AMERICA. 


the  last  few  years  it  has  superseded  the  Irish  producers  of  "  Navy 
beef"  for  British  consumption,  to  the  amount  of  thirty-five  per 
cent.  This  is  only  a  foretaste  of  the  extraordinary  changes  that 
will  soon  take  place. 

The  annexed  table  will  give  some  idea  of  the  very  large  supply 
of  hogs.  The  decrease  in  exports  is,  I  believe,  solely  owing  to 
the  increased  consumption  arising  from  the  immense  flood  of 
emigration  continually  pouring  in.  The  produce  can  and  will  be 
multiplied  in  a  ratio  that  is  incalculable. 

"We  give  below  returns  from  the  West,  keeping  each  State 
separate. 

PORK  TRADE  OF  THE  WEST. 

OHI°'  1851.         1850. 

Animals.         Animals. 

Previously  reported,  exclusive  of  Cincinnati 64,027        152.990 

Cincinnati 324,529       401,755 

Total 388,556       553,745 

INDIANA.  1851  185Q 

Animals  Animals. 

Previously  reported,  exclusive  of  Terre  Haute 274,549  320.175 

Terre  Haute 65,548  60,000 

Fort  Wayne 2,000  none 

Huntington 500  900 

Lagro 1,500  2,000 

Wabashtown 1,000  4,500 

Americus 700  900 

Durkee's  Ferry 5,000  4.500 

Darwin 1,200  3,300 

York 1,500  1.000 

Frankfort      2,500  1,900 

Armesburgh    2,000  3,500 

Carlisle 2,500  none 

Evansville    12,000  14,000 

Total 372,497       416,675 


THE  REMOTE    SETTLEMENTS. 


109 


1851.  1850. 

Animals.  Animals. 

Beardstown    35,000  37,000 

Alton 25,000  40,000 

Meredosia 9,000  9,000 

Naples    4,000  6,500 

Peoria 30,000  21,000 

Pekin 19,000  28,000 

Canton 1 2,000  24,000 

Liverpool    2,400  400 

Springfield 8,000  19,500 

Chillicothe    4,000  3,800 

Lacon 13,000  11,600 

Peru    4,000  15,000 

Total 165,400  215,800 

MISSISSIPPI    RIVER.                   1851  1850> 

Animals.  Animals. 

St.  Louis  (about) 85,000  124,000 

Hannibal 17,000  24,000 

Quincy ' 20,000  29,000 

Keokuk 22,000  19,000 

Burlington    19,000  29,000 

Total 161,000  225,000 

RECAPITULATION.         1850_5]  1849    5Q. 

Animals.  Animals. 

Ohio   388,556  553,745 

Indiana 372,497  416,675 

Illinois    165,400  215,800 

Mississippi   161,000  225,000 

Cumberland  Valley ,  .        30,000  40,000 

Kentucky 205,414  201,000 

Total 1,322,867  1,652,220 

1,322,867 

Deficiency  in  number 32.9,353 


UO  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


There  are  yet  a  great  many  points  in  Missouri,  Illinois,  and 
Iowa  not  returned. 

Not  liking  the  appearance  of  Chicago,  I  stopped  but  a  short 
time,  and  no  doubt  lost  sight  of  many  beautiful  scenes  on  the 
more  elevated  ground  inland. 

From  Chicago,  steamers  ply  daily  to  Milwaukie,  Wisconsin, 
and  every  port  of  importance  round  the  lakes.  The  Milwaukie 
steamer  coasts  along  the  western  shore,  calling  at  several 
embryo  cities ;  such  as  Waukegan,  Racine,  &c. 

After  a  run  of  seven  hours  (ninety-six  miles),  we  arrived  at 
Milwaukie,  a  city  beautifully  situated  on  undulating  ground,  and 
having  the  advantage  of  a  small  river,  the  Menomonee,  which 
forms  the  harbor.  This  is  indeed  a  wonderful  place,  and  per 
haps  the  best  example  of  progress  in  the  Union.  In  1835,  there 
was  not  a  single  house  on  the  spot,  but  in  1840  the  inhabitants, 
including  half-breeds,  numbered  1700.  At  the  last  census 
(1850),  the  population  amounted  to  20,000. 

To  any  one  accustomed  to  the  growth  of  cities  in  the  old 
world,  this  appears  incredible ;  but  when  one  is  actually  a 
witness  to  the  spacious  and  tasteful  blocks  of  buildings,  the  wide 
and  regular  streets,  the  well-filled  stores,  abounding  with  custom 
ers  no  less  than  goods,  the  mind  is  lost  in  contemplating  so 
marvelous  and  substantial  an  increase.  It  is,  however,  im 
possible  to  divest  one's  self  of  certain  misgivings,  generated  by  so 
rapid  a  growth.  Twenty  years  ago,  the  land  on  which  the  city 
stands  was  not  worth  more  than  the  government  price,  1£  dollars 
per  acre  (5s.  5d.)  At  present  the  lots  are  valued,  in  good 
locations,  at  200  dollars  a  foot  frontage.  This  astonishing 
augmentation  of  value  has  excited  undue  speculation,  from  the 
fact  that  individuals  holding  this  land,  suddenly  became  rich, 
and,  having  cleared  immense  sums,  sold  their  lands  to  speculators, 
who  immediately  stimulated  the  public  mind  by  means  peculiar 
to  the  genus.  Their  efforts  were  seconded  by  the  immense  influx 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  Ill 


sf  emigration ;  and  the  lots  rapidly  rose  far  above  their  worth. 
This  fictitious  value  had  its  effect  upon  the  neighboring  lands, 
which  likewise  became  much  inflated.  The  inhabitants  are  now 
likely  to  suffer  from  the  mania  of  speculation,  as  the  emigrants 
are  becoming  frightened  at  the  high  range  of  prices,  and  are 
stretching  onward  in  other  directions. 

Milwaukie,  for  a  great  city,  has  a  formidable  disadvantage  ; 
namely,  a  bad  and  dangerous  harbor.  This  vital  defect  is 
common  to  all  the  towns  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan,  from 
Chicago  to  the  entrance  of  Green  Bay ;  and  it  can  only  be 
rectified  at  a  very  heavy  expense,  as  the  small  streams,  that 
usually  run  through  the  harbors,  are  constantly  forming  bars,  and 
thus  damming  up  the  entry.  There  being  no  tides  to  sweep 
away  these  accumulations,  they  become  a  serious  annoyance. 

The  absolute  want  of  a  safe  roadstead  for  so  great  a  length 'of 
coast-line,  must  in  future  exercise  an  injurious  influence  in  that 
quarter.  Emigration  is  pouring  in  so  rapidly,  and  the  demand 
for  water-transit  accommodation  is  so  pressing,  that  some  harbors 
of  refuge  are  imperatively  demanded. 

After  a  careful  examination  of  most  of  the  lake  harbors  I  am 
convinced  that  any  stationary  or  permanent  breakwaters  would 
be  far  too  expensive  to  be  attempted  at  present.  A  cheaper  and 
simpler  method  must  be  adopted,  and  that  speedily,  or  the  losses 
will  increase  in  a  frightful  proportion.  Fully  possessed  by  this 
idea,  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  proposing  to  the  people  of  the 
lakes,  through  the  columns  of  the  Milwaukie  Sentinel,  the  form 
ation  of  floating  breakwaters,  which  would  be  of  inestimable 
service  to  the  lake  vessels,  as  numerous  indentations  are  on  the 
coast,  where  a  floating  breakwater  would  form  a  very  fair  and 
tolerably  secure  harbor.  This  proposal  met  with  the  approbation 
of  the  lake  press  ;  the  writers  in  which  at  once  perceived  the 
economy  and  desirability  of  such  a  structure.  Wood  is  a  drug 
in  this  country  ;  and  the  absence  of  tides  renders  the  secure 


112  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


mooring  of  such  a  breakwater,  comparatively  easy  and  certain. 
I  venture  to  prognosticate  that  these  sea-defenses  must  be  adopted 
in  most,  if  not  all,  the  lake  harbors.  Dunkirk,  the  present  ter 
minus  of  the  great  Erie  Railroad,  would  be  immensely  benefited 
by  such  a  breakwater. 

Even  with  the  assistance  of  the  above  structures,  I  do  not 
think  that  all  the  engineering  skill  in  the  world  will  ever  make 
a  great  shipping-port  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Michigan.  Dame 
Nature  has  denied  the  facilities — nay,  the  essentials — for  a  good 
natural  harbor ;  and,  therefore,  the  labor  of  man  will,  in  a  great 
measure,  be  thrown  away  on  such  undertakings.  Providence 
has,  however,  amply  compensated  humanity  by  the  magnificent 
harbor  of  Green  Bay,  the  head  of  which  will  eventually  become 
the  great  entrepot  to  supply  the  Mississippi,  Western  Wisconsin, 
Iowa,  Minnesota,  and  the  upper  part  of  Illinois.  I  do  not  think 
the  Americans  have  shown  their  usual  acuteness  in  neglecting 
this  part  of  Wisconsin,  from  which  the  water  communication  is 
nearly  completed  to  the  Mississippi,  and  begins  to  open  the  eyes 
of  our  translantic  brethren,  as  the  following  extract  from  the 
"New  York  Herald,"  of  December,  1851,  plainly  evinces. 

"  One  of  the  remarkable  characteristics  of  the  present  day,  is 
the  craving  desire  for  new  and  cheap  lines  of  transit  for  western 
demands.  At  present  New  York  supplies  the  whole  western 
world  by  the  magnificent  inland  water-communication  of  the 
lakes. 

"A  rival  spirit,  of  formidable  character,  has  manifested  itself 
in  the  Mississippi  cities,  St.  Louis  particularly.  These  cities 
begin  to  feel  that  their  wealth  and  importance  justify  them  in 
throwing  off  their  dependence  on  the  New  York  market,  and 
that  much  greater  profits  can  be  realized  by  importing  from 
Europe  direct.  Such  a  measure  successfully  carried  out,  would 
be  a  blow  of  no  trifling  importance  to  the  interests  of  the  Empire 
City. 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  113 

"  To  avoid  this  premeditated  blow,  the  New  York  merchants 
must  carry  the  war  into  the  enemy's  camp,  and  supply  not  only 
the  valley  of  the  lakes,  but  likewise  inundate  the  upper  Missis 
sippi.  This  can  easily  be  effected  by  the  route  through  Green 
Bay,  Lake  Winnebago,  the  Fox  and  Wisconsin  rivers. 

"  On  a  careful  personal  survey,  we  find  the  distances  in  time  as 
follows  :  Green  Bay  to  Lake  Winnebago  (next  spring  when  the 
communication  is  opened)  five  hours ;  Lake  Winnebago,  through 
Fox  River  to  Fort  Winnebago,  forty-eight  hours  ;  Fort  Win 
nebago  to  the  Mississippi,  sixteen  hours ;  total,  seventy  hours. 

"  Green  Bay  has  a  decided  advantage  over  every  other  port  in 
Lake  Michigan,  from  its  perfect  safety  in  any  weather.  This 
advantage  secures  not  only  a  lower  rate  of  insurance,  but  a 
certainty  of  punctuality,  to  which  no  port  on  Lake  Michigan 
can  pretend.  It  is  likewise  many  miles  nearer  New  York  than 
Milwaukie,  and  vastly  nearer  than -Chicago.  Goods,  therefore, 
dispatched  from  the  Eastern  cities  via  Green  Bay,  will  be  half 
way  across  Wisconsin  to  the  Mississippi  before  they  can  arrive 
at  Milwaukie  or  Chicago.  The  complaints  of  delay  at  present, 
from  the  towns  and  villages  en  route  are  very  bitter.  Some  of 
these  places  were  supplied  from  Milwaukie,  others  from  Sheboy- 
gan,  arid  others  from  more  remote  distances.  The  time  occupied 
in  land  carriage  from  these  localities,  varied  from  three  to  six 
weeks,  and  incurred  an  enormous  expense  in  the  freight  and 
breakage.  On  approaching  the  Mississippi,  we  found  many 
goods  were  sent  from  New  Orleans  ;  but  the  purchase  and 
freightage  were  much  more  expensive. 

"  '  What  can  we  do  ?'  asked  the  trader.  '  Oar  expenses  and 
losses  are  so  great  by  land  carriage  from  Lake  Michigan  that  we 
are  obliged  to  use  the  Mississippi.' 

"  We  have  carefully  examined  this  route,  and  are  of  opinion 
that  it  is  the  best  in  the  western  world.  We  were  particularly 
struck  with  the  site  of  a  small  village,  Menasha,  at  the  end  of 


114  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


Lake  Winnebago.  From  this  place  to  the  head  of  the  naviga 
tion  of  Green  Bay,  a  plank  road  was  being  constructed  ;  which, 
when  complete,  will  shorten  the  distance  by  four  miles.  As  the 
grade  is  nearly  level,  we  predict  that  the  largest  portion  of  goods- 
traffic,  and  all  the  passengers,  will  take  advantage  of  this 
'  short  cut,'  instead  of  the  roundabout  delay  of  canals  and  locks. 
Menasha  is  similarly  situated  to  the  location  of  the  Gcnesce 
Falls,  but  has  a  much  finer  water-power,  sufficient,  we  believe, 
for  one  hundred  and  twenty  mills.  It  is  in  fact  the  best  water- 
power  in  the  United  States,  for  economy  and  adaptability.  The 
soil  likewise  is  similar  to  that  in  the  vicinity  of  Rochester,  New 
York,  rather  richer  and  deeper.  With  such  exceeding  advant 
ages,  we  venture  to  anticipate  at  no  distant  date  it  will  be 
a  successful  rival  to  the  large  cities  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Michigan. 

"  We  can  not  understand'  why  the  Eastern  capitalists  should 
have  overlooked  such  palpable  advantages.  It  is  out-and-out 
the  best  position  in  Wisconsin  for  a  great  city.  The  Green 
Bay  route  once  open,  it  will  be  the  fault  of  Eastern  merchants 
if  they  do  not  command  the  traffic.  The  channel  selected  by 
the  flood  tide  of  supply  will  assuredly  command  the  strong  ebb 
of  produce. 

"  Merchants  of  the  '  Empire  City,'  how  is  it  to  be  ?  It  de 
pends  upon  yourselves.  Is  this  small  stream  (soon  to  expand 
into  a  vast  tide  of  commerce)  to  flow  for  the  benefit  of  New 
York  or  New  Orleans  ?" 

This  extract  is  from  one  of  the  American  papers,  which, 
except  that  it  sometimes  defaces  its  columns  with  abuse  of  En 
gland,  rnay  be  considered  among  the  most  able  in  the  country. 
I  have  no  doubt  that  a  large  and  flourishing  city  must  soon 
LTOW  up  somewhere  on  the  Green  Bay  and  Mississippi  route. 
The  town  or  village  of  Menasha,  mentioned  above,  appears  a 
likely  place  enough,  as  it  is  surrounded  with  as  rich  a  country 


THE  REMOTE   SETTLEMENTS.  115 

as  the  world  produces.  The  water  is  supplied  by  Lake  AVirme- 
bago,  a  vast  and  never-failing  reservoir ;  arid  the  climate  is 
extremely  healthy.  The  amazing  quantity  of  fresh  water  in  this 
vicinity  modifies  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  air,  peculiar  to  the 
United  States.  Here  metal  rusts  rapidly  ;  and  guns,  that,  in 
six  months'  disuse  in  New  York,  were  bright  and  free  from  the 
smallest  particle  of  dust,  were  covered  in  this  place  with  rust  in 
twenty-four  hours. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

JOURNEY    TO    THE    REMOTE    SETTLEMENTS. 

Embark  for  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw — Crowded  Steamer  :  its  uncomforta 
ble  Condition,  except  as  to  the  Food  of  the  Passengers — Gigantic 
Strides  of  the  Far  West — Cupidity  of  a  Colored  Waiter — Shores  of  Wis 
consin — "The  Sleeping  Bear" — The  Manitou  Islands — Singular  Cir 
cumstances  in  Natural  History — Island  of  Mackinaw — Large  Compa 
nies  of  Fish — The  Stiaits  of  Mackinaw — Optical  Delusions — A  Mirage — 
The  Light-house  of  War-e-chance — Fishing  for  Mackinaw  Trout — 
Spontaneous  Vegetation  on  Fox  Island — Embark  for  Green  Bay — Ap 
proach  the  Mormon  Settlement  at  Beaver  Island — Threat  of  Vengeance 
against  the  Mormons — Attempt  to  vindicate  them — A  Visit  to  the 
"Gentiles" — Polygamy — Fugitive  Saints — Great  Increase  and  Pros 
perity  of  the  Mormons — The  Promised  Land — Scene  in  the  House  of 
Representatives — Recent  Intelligence  respecting  the  Mormons — Mor 
mon  Poetry. 

DAILY  steamers  ply  from  Chicago  to  Buffalo,  calling  at  Mil- 
waukie.  I  took  advantage  of  one  of  these,  and  embarked  in  the 
evening  for  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw — the  connecting  link  of  the 
two  huge  "  fresh-water  seas,"  Michigan  and  Huron. 

The  steamer  was  crowded  with  passengers  ;  the  cabin,  as 
usual,  at  fever  heat,  and  full  of  squalling  children.  I  can  not 
speak  well  of  these  steamers  from  the  specimen  I  took  passage 
in.  They  are  a  sad  contrast  to  the  beautiful  vessels  in  the 
Eastern  States,  whose  perfect  cleanliness,  comfort,  and  luxury, 
are  the  admiration  of  all.  This  vessel  was  filthily  dirty  ;  and 
the  courtesy  scant.  A  single  toivel  was  allowed  for  the  use  of 
hundreds  ;  and  was  (as  may  be  imagined)  an  exceedingly  dis 
gusting  clout.  There  was  no  excuse  for  this  as  the  vessel  was 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  117 

coining  money  by  her  large  freight ;  and  the  number  of  passen 
gers  was  so  great,  that  three  dinners  were  necessary  to  satisfy 
them  all.  In  this  respect,  the  appointments  were  not  deficient. 
The  dining-table  extended  the  whole  length  of  the  vessel,  ex 
cept  the  slight  interruption  (perhaps  fifteen  feet)  caused  by  the 
engine  protruding  from  below.  This  vast  table  had  room  for 
about  two  hundred  arid  fifty  people,  and  was  literally  covered 
with  little  dishes — two  at  least  for  each  person. 

I  was  much  interested  and  amused  to  scan  carefully  this 
crowd  of  western  passengers  ;  and  could  not  help  thinking  how 
few  years  had  elapsed  since  the  land  had  been  redeemed  from 
its  Indian  inhabitants.  What  gigantic  strides  the  Far  West  has 
taken  in  five  years !  and  what  a  prospect  is  before  it  !  Not  an 
old  man  was  to  be  seen,  because  time  enough  had  not  passed 
to  silver  the  hair  of  the  first  settlers  ! 

I  was  sitting  in  a  large  arm-chair,  musing  on  this  wonderful 
people  and  country,  when  my  attention  was  attracted  by  a 
whispered  conversation  between  one  of  the  passengers  and  a 
colored  waiter.  I  soon  perceived  that  a  bright  quarter-dollar 
had  passed  into  the  dingy  hand  of  the  waiter,  who  advanced 
toward  me. 

"  That  arm-chair  is  engaged,  sir,"  said  he. 

As  there  were  six  or  eight  more  of  these  esteemed  seats,  I 
quietly  moved  to  another.  Still  following  me  up,  my  knowing 
darkey  managed  to  pocket  from  different  passengers  a  quarter- 
dollar  for  each  arm-chair,  and  oust  me  from  them  all. 

I  was  too  much  amused  at  the  fellow's  impudence  and  dex 
terity  to  be  angry,  and  quietly  submitted  to  this  anti-republican 
wrong.  The  steamer's  name  shall  not  be  mentioned,  as  I  am 
sure  the  owners  do  not  countenance  this  sort  of  "black-mail." 
Perceiving  that  I  was  aware  of  his  tricks,  the  rascal  cast  at 
me  queer  looks,  as  much  as  to  say,  "  There  now,  only  see  what 
a  nice  seat  you  might  have  had  for  •&.  quarter-dollar." 


118  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


Coasting  along  the  shores  of  Wisconsin,  we  called  at  two 
ports,  Sheboygan  and  Manitowoc ;  then  steered  diagonally  across 
the  lake  toward  Michigan,  continuing  north  along  the  shores 
of  that  State. 

A  remarkable  projection  now  became  visible,  called  by  the 
Indians,  "  The  Sleeping  Bear,"  from  its  fancied  resemblance  to 
that  .animal.  We  soon  arrived  at  the  Manitou  Islands,  which 
are  of  extremely  curious  formation.  Densely  covered  with 
wood,  they  are,  nevertheless,  apparently  composed  entirely  of 
sand.  I  was  informed  by  Captain  M'Comb,  of  the  U.  S.  Topo 
graphical  Engineers,  that  when  employed  in  surveying  this 
group,  he  desired  to  plant  a  surveying  station  on  the  crest  of  a 
sand  hill.  On  attempting  to  cut  down  certain  bushes  for  the 
purpose,  he  was  much  astonished  to  find  that  they  were  the  tops 
of  some  cotton-wood  trees.  From  the  still  living  foliage,  he 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  drifting  sand  had  completely 
buried  them  alive  ;  and  believed  that  two  years,  at  the  utmost, 
was  the  period  of  time  required  to  envelop  them  to  the  depth 
of  sixty  feet.  It  was  very  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  con 
ceive  whence  the  sand  was  derived,  as  the  island  is  extremely 
limited  in  extent,  not  being  twelve  miles  in  circumference,  and 
at  least  the  same  distance  from  the  nearest  shores. 

After  wooding  at  this  station,  we  proceeded  for  the  Straits  of 
Mackinaw,  arriving  at  the  island  of  that  name  the  same  even 
ing.  I  perambulated  the  beach  the  following  morning,  and  was 
struck  by  large  companies  of  fish  close  to  the  shore.  Several 
hundred  in  a  dense  mass  were  crowded  close  together,  with  their 
noses  on  the  edge  of  the  shelving  beach.  I  watched  this  ani 
mated  mass  with  great  interest,  and  concluded  my  survey  with 
a  discharge  from  a  duck  gun.  This  secured  several  fine  fish, 
weighing  from  three  to  seven  pounds. 

The  following  day,  by  invitation  from  my  esteemed  friend 
Captain  M'Comb,  the  chief  of  the  Lake  Survey,  we  embarked  in 


THE  REMOTE   SETTLEMENTS.  119 

the  steam  vessel  "  Surveyor,"  and  proceeded  through  the  Straits 
of  Mackinaw  to  inspect  the  new  light-house  off  the  Fox  Islands. 

The  optical  delusion  in  the  Strait,  during  certain  conditions  of 
the  atmosphere,  caused  by  refraction,  presents  a  mirage  which  is 
ever  varying  and  eminently  beautiful.  Sudden  and  extraordi 
nary  changes  astound  the  most  experienced.  On  this  occasion 
the  phenomena  was  seen  to  perfection.  At  one  moment,  seemed 
to  arise  vast  sandy  cliffs,  exhibiting  huge  chasms,  gullies,  and 
caverns.  Fallen  timber  and  water-courses  appeared  so  clear  and 
natural,  that  the  most  experienced  were  deceived.  Anon,  the 
cliffs  "  melted  into  thin  air,"  and  a  vision  of  a  large  inverted 
forest  took  its  place.  This  phase  of  the  delusion  disappeared, 
and  vast  savannas,  and  apparently  interminable  grassy  plains, 
arose  as  if  by  enchantment. 

The  lighthouse  of  War-e-chance  is  situated  about  two  miles 
from  the  Fox  Islands,  and  is  a  remarkable  structure.  Before 
commencing  the  foundation,  an  accurate  model  was  taken  of  the 
crest  of  the  reef.  A  wooden  frame,  one  hundred  feet  by  ninety, 
was  then  built  on  a  neighboring  island,  St.  Helena,  and  towed 
to  the  reef.  This  huge  structure  was  divided  into  compartments, 
leaving  a  large  hollow  space  in  the  centre  for  the  lighthouse. 
By  the  aid  of  several  cables  and  anchors,  the  frame  was  adjusted 
in  its  place,  and  then  sunk  by  filling  the  compartments  with 
ponderous  stones.  So  well  was  the  shape  fitted  to  the  bottom, 
that  it  sank  exactly  square,  all  parts  bearing  evenly  on  the  reef. 
This  was  a  task  of  great  difficulty,  as  the  north  side  was  in  four 
feet,  arid  the  south  in  fifteen  feet  water. 

During  the  progress  of  the  work,  a  singular  circumstance 
occurred  ;  so  singular  that,  unless  witnessed  by  persons  whose 
testimony  is  beyond  all  doubt,  I  should  hardly  like  to  mention 
it.  A  huge  boulder,  estimated  to  weigh  sixty  tons,  was  rolled  a 
distance  of  fifty  yards,  grazing  the  corner  of  the  frame  of  the 
above  structure  in  its  course.  This  Herculean  performance  was 


120  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


achieved  in  one  night,  during  a  severe  gale  from  the  northwest. 
As  heavy  ice  was  moving  at  the  time,  it  was  imagined  that  it 
had  considerable  influence  on  this  Titanic  movement.  Long 
before  the  ponderous  masses  are  in  motion,  the  structure  is  com 
pletely  fortified  by  the  ice  that  forms  from  the  spray.  The 
building  is  therefore  now  substantially  fixed.  The  hollow  cen 
tre  is  completely  filled  in  with  hydraulic  cement,  and  raised 
some  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  A  massive  brick  tow 
er,  sixty  feet  high,  then  rises  from  this  solid  foundation.  On  the 
top  is  a  powerful  lantern,  visible  at  an  amazing  distance  in  this 
clear  and  transparent  atmosphere. 

"  Would  you  like  to  see  how  we  catch  Mackinaw  trout  ?"  in 
quired  my  worthy  host. 

"  Amazingly,"  I  replied,  delighted  at  the  chance  of  sport. 

Jumping  into  the  '  Surveyor's'  boat,  we  pushed  off  in  the 
direction  of  the  Fox  Islands.  Two  large  cod-lines  were  unrolled, 
and  allowed  to  drag  about  two  hundred  feet  behind  the  boat. 
To  these  lines  were  fastened  large  cod-hooks  ;  one  baited  with  a 
piece  of  pork,  the  other  with  a  shining  strip  of  tin. 

"  Now  look  out  for  a  bite  !"  exclaimed  our  host ;  "we  must 
secuje  a  dozen  at  least  before  we  land." 

I  had  not  much  faith  in  this  rough  method  of  catching  so 
delicate  a  fish  as  trout,  and  held  the  line  with  some  degree  of 
incredulity.  My  host  perceived  my  skepticism,  and  smiled  be- 
nignantly  at  such  fresh-water  ignorance.  Suddenly,  I  felt  a 
violent  jerk,  and  the  line  slipped  several  feet  through  my  fingers 
before  I  was  on  the  alert.  I  then  began  to  tug  with  "might 
and  main,"  and  after  considerable  difficulty  lugged  in  a  huge 
lake  trout,  weighing  thirty  pounds.  Before  we  arrived  at  the 
island,  the  bottom  of  our  boat  was  alive  with  flapping  silvery 
fins  and  tails. 

War-e- chance,  on  Fox  Island,  is  densely  covered  with  wood. 
On  the  small  prairies  or  natural  clearings,  many  beautiful  wild 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  121 

flowers  flourish.  Wild  goose  berries,  cherries,  currants,  and  rasp 
berries  were  likewise  scattered  about  in  great  profusion.  I  was 
informed  that  the  destructive  potato  disease  was  quite  unknown 
in  this  region. 

While  forming  my  plans  for  a  thorough  exploration  of  Mack 
inaw  and  its  vicinity,  I  was  taken  with  a  lake-warning ;  that  is 
to  say,  the  steamer  was  approaching  to  convey  passengers  to 
Green  Bay.  A  few  minutes  sufficed  for  hasty  preparations,  and 
I  found  myself  steaming  through  the  Straits  in  the  good  vessel 
"  Julius  Morton."  In  this  steamer  I  experienced  great  comfort, 
cleanliness,  and  civility.  The  cabins  are  excellent ;  a  small  sit 
ting-room  being  attached  to  each  sleeping  oabin.  Calling  at 
St.  Helena,  the  vessel  again  commenced  plowing  the  dark  blue 
water  of  the  lake ;  so  clear,  so  blue,  that  it  compared  advanta 
geously  with  the  tropical  seas.  1  discovered  that  we  were  ap 
proaching  the  famed  Mormon  settlement  at  Beaver  Island. 

A  group  was  assembled  on  the  forecastle,  discussing  the  recent 
outrages  among  the  Mormons,  who  were  violently  abused  by  a 
pale  attenuated  man,  in  the  garb  of  a  sailor.  He  spoke  of  a  mur 
derous  attack  made  by  them  upon  himself  and  brother.  Elevat 
ing  his  wounded  arm,  he  described  the  onslaught  in  animated 
terms.  "  They  fired  five  balls  through  my  brother's  body  !" 
exclaimed  he.  "I  will  pursue  them  to  the  world's  end,  until  I 
get  vengeance," 

His  story  had  a  wonderful  effect  upon  the  listeners,  who  became 
excited,  and  even  threatened  to  raise  a  body  of  men  to  extermin 
ate  the  rascally  fanatics. 

After  listening  for  some  time,  I  ventured  to  say  : 

"  Well,  gentlemen,  this  appears  very  dreadful ;  but  it  would 
be  as  well  to  hear  the  other  side,  and  not  make  up  your  minds 
on  an  ex  parte  statement." 

This  observation  was  assented  to,  particularly  by  a  couple  of 
persons  who  had  been  silent  listeners  to  all  that  had  passed.  As 

F 


122  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


the  vessel  was  now  approaching  the  island,  one  of  these  persons 
addressed  me,  and  strongly  took  the  Mormons'  part. 

"  Let  me  introduce  you,"  said  he,  "  to  some  of  the  chiefs  ;  you 
will  see,  as  an  intelligent  stranger,  how  falsely  they  are  accused.' 

This  assertion  certainly  staggered  the  impression  previously 
made,  and  I  determined  to  judge  for  myself. 

"  Do  you  think,"  inquired  he,  "  that  a  party  of  intelligent,  in 
dustrious,  and  careful  men.  with  considerable  property  at  stake, 
would  willfully  commit  such  blind  and  foolish  atrocities  ?  There 
is  a  conspiracy  against  them." 

Soon  afterward  we  ran  into  a  beautiful  land-locked  bay — very 
similar  in  appearance  to  the  coral  lagoons  in  the  South  Seas,  and 
the  vessel  was  lashed  alongside  a  projecting  wharf.  In  a  few 
moments  the  space  between  the  vessel's  side  and  the  wharf  was 
swarming  with  fish  from  one  to  three  feet  long. 

I  landed,  and  strolled  into  the  village.  On  my  way,  I  entered 
into  conversation  with  several  of  the  inhabitants,  but  found  them 
all,  as  they  expressed  it.  Gentiles.  This  is  the  name  given  by  the 
Mormons  to  those  who  do  not  belong  to  their  sect.  The  Gentiles 
positively  affirmed  that  each  of  the  Mormons  had  more  than  one 
wife.  Several  were  mentioned  to  us  by  name,  who  were  asserted 
to  have  from  four  to  six  each  !  If  this  be  true,  it  is  certainly  an 
astounding  fact  in  a  civilized  country.  My  suspicions  were  rather 
strengthened  on  learning  from  an  officer  of  the  steamboat  that  a 
large  party  of  Mormons  were  anxious  to  take  passage  in  the  ves 
sel.  As  the  officer  expressed  it,  "  they  wanted  to  make  a  bolt  of 
it,"  because  the  sheriff  of  the  State  was  on  his  way  to  arrest  them. 

The  Mormons  of  Beaver  Island  are  only  an  off-shoot  or  branch 
from  the  main  body,  who  have  migrated  far  inland.  The  move 
ment  of  these  singular  religionists  has  assumed  the  condition  ol 
an  important  popular  agitation ;  and  after  much  suffering  and 
many  reverses,  the  sect  has  achieved  a  condition  of  eminent  in 
dustrial  prosperity.  The  name  of  the  mock-hero — his  ignorance, 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  123 


and  want  of  character — the  low  cunning  of  his  accomplices — the 
open  vices  in  which  they  indulged,  and  the  extraordinary  success 
of  the  sect  they  founded,  is  one  of  the  most  singular  incidents  of 
the  present  age.  In  twenty  years,  the  sect  or  company  has  in 
creased  to  nearly  half  a  million.  They  occupy  one  of  the  richest 
portions  of  the  United  States,  have  a  regularly  organized  govern 
ment,  and  are  represented  in  Congress  by  a  delegate. 

With  missions  in  every  part  of  the  States,  in  every  capital  in 
Europe,  in  Mecca,  Jerusalem,  and  among  the  islands  of  the  Indian 
and  Pacific  Oceans,  all  the  disciples  are  charged  with  the  duty  of 
making  converts,  and  gathering  them  to  the  Promised  Land  of 
Utah,  or  Deseret.  They  must  soon  have  a  sufficient  population 
to  claim  admission  to  the  Union. 

The  promised  land  is  situated  in  the  valley  of  Sanpeech,  and 
they  have  settled  the  country  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  north. 
The  principal  part  of  their  territory  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  a 
beautiful  river,  named  by  them  the  Western  Jordan.  It  was  on 
the  right  bank  of  this  stream,  on  a  rich  table-land,  traversed  by 
exhaustless  waters  falling  from  the  highlands,  that  the  Mormon 
pioneers,  on  the  24th  of  July,  1847,  pitched  their  first  camp  in 
their  present  locality,  and  consecrated  the  ground.  The  Mormon 
wheat-farms  in  this  district  are  said  already  to  cover  as  large  an 
extent  of  land  as  Rhode  Island. 

Recent  information  (December,  1851)  from  the  New  Jerusa 
lem,  justifies  apprehension  that  the  ambition  of  the  territorial 
governor,  Brigham  Young,  will  cause  great  difficulty.  A  con 
siderable  portion  of  the  territorial  officers,  who  are  appointed 
by  the  United  States  government,  are  preparing  to  leave  for  the 
Atlantic  States. 

There  are  seven  counties  in  Utah,  respectively  named  Davis, 
Great  Salt  Lake,  Iron,  San  Pete,  Tooele,  Utah,  and  Weber. 

During  a  recent  debate  in  the  House  of  Representatives  at 
Washington,  as  reported  in  the  "  New  York  Herald,"  on  the  ques- 


124  TOUU  IN  AMERICA. 


tion  of  the  legality  of  the  election  of  Mr.  Bernheisel,  the  delegate 
from  Utah,  Mr.  Briggs,  of  New  York,  remarked  that  he  had  good 
reason  for  asserting  that  Mr.  Bernheisel  had  received  his  certificate 
of  election  through  fraud  and  corruption  ;  and  that  he  paid  Brig- 
ham  Young,  the  Governor  of  the  Territory,  and  chief  saint  of  the 
Mormons,  the  sum  of  3000  dollars  (£600)  to  secure  his  seat  in 
Congress. 

This  announcement  created  extraordinary  excitement  arid  con 
fusion  ;  members  rose  upon  their  feet,  and  the  Speaker  had  much 
difficulty  in  quelling  the  disturbance.  One  member  wished 
to  know  whether  polygamy  was  really  countenanced ;  another, 
whether  the  delegate  himself  was  a  polygamist  ?  Several  mem 
bers  averred  that  if  Mr.  Bernheisel  was  guilty  of  any  such  abom 
inable  conduct,  he  or  they  must  leave  the  house  ;  they  could  not, 
and  would  not,  associate  with  any  such  men. 

After  great  noise  and  confusion,  the  subject  was  postponed  to 
another  day,  when  it  is  expected  that  developments  of  a  most 
astounding  character  will  be  made. 

One  of  the  initiated  Mormons,  named  M'Gee  van  Dusen,  dis 
liking  their  mummeries,  left  them  in  disgust,  and  published  a 
pamphlet,  entitled  "  The  Spiritual  Wife-dogma  of  Mormonism." 
This  contains  a  curious  revelation  of  the  profane  secrets  and  initi 
ation  of  these  deluded  and  ignorant  people. 

Should  any  of  my  readers  desire  to  be  acquainted  with  the 
peculiar  ceremonies  and  tenets  of  these  fanatics,  they  may  be 
found  in  a  recent  number  of  a  weekly  religious  paper  published 
in  London. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  present  year,  the  Speaker  of  the  House 
of  Representatives  laid  before  the  house  a  report  relative  to  Utah, 
from  the  judges  and  Secretary  of  that  Territory,  dated  on  the  19th 
day  of  December,  1851,  giving  an  account  of  the  deplorable 
state  of  things  in  the  district  in  question.  Among  the  docu 
ments  is  a  resolution  of  the  Legislature  of  Utah,  passed  in  Sep- 


-THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  125 

tember,  1851,  stating,  that  "As  B.  D.  Harris,  Secretary  of  the 
Territory,  is  about  to  leave,  abscond,  or  absent  himself  from  the 
said  territory,  in  case  he  shall  refuse,  neglect,  or  in  anywise  fail 
to  deliver  the  papers,  records,  documents,  money,  or  any  other 
property  or  articles  pertaining  to  said  office,  it  shall  be  the  duty 
of  the  United  States  marshal  for  Utah  to  arrest  the  said  Harris, 
and  him  safely  keep  in  custody,  until  he  shall  comply  with  the 
resolution." 

"  Mr.  Bernheisel,  delegate  from  Utah,  stated  that  the  communi 
cations  to  the  President  contained  grave  charges  and  exaggera 
tions,  not  to  say  falsehoods.  He  knew  his  constituents  to  be  loyal 
to  the  Government,  and  they  should  not  be  disparaged,  and 
charged  with  gross  crimes  and  enormities." 
House  adjourned. 

It  appears,  therefore,  that  the  Mormons  have  commenced  open 
hostilities  with  the  United  States. 

The  most  recent  intelligence  respecting  the  Mormons,  is  given 
in  a  letter,  dated  Deseret,  15th  November,  1851. 

"  The  affairs  of  Deseret  are  in  a  very  flourishing  condition. 
The  crops  generally  have  been  good,  though*  the  beets  and  pota 
toes  are  rather  light.  Wheat  is  cheaper  than  ever  before  known 
in  the  mountains.  The  foundation  of  the  Tabernacle  is  laid  and 
the  only  hindrance  is  for  timbers.  The  joiners  have  been  in  their 
new  shop  on  Temple  block  a  week  or  two.  The  railroad  is  pro 
gressing  ;  the  grading  completed  to  a  considerable  extent.  The 
public  barn,  also  Presidents  Young  and  Kimbal's  barns,  are  in 
closed.  Many  cattle,  horses,  and  much  produce  have  been  re 
ceived  as  tithing.  The  hearts  of  all  rejoice  that  they  have  done 
their  duty  in  paying  their  tithing.  Parent  schools  are  establish 
ed,  in  which  persons  of  both  sexes  are  to  be  qualified  for  teachers 
in  the  common  schools  ;  and  to  improve  themselves  in  the  higher 
branches  of  education,  such  as  algebra,  astronomy,  &c. 

"  At  the  first  District  Court  for  the  Territory  of  Utah.     How- 


126  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


ard  Egan  was  tried  for  killing  James  Munro,  who  it  seems  had 
seduced  his  wife. 

"  George  Smith,  counsel  for  prisoner,  urged  as  argument  in  fa 
vor  of  his  client,  that  the  prisoner  had  acted  in  accordance  with 
'  mountain-law.'  In  relation  to  this  mountain-law,  he  demands, 
What  is  natural  justice  with  this  people  ?  The  principle,  the 
only  one  that  beats  and  throbs  through  the  hearts  of  the  entire 
inhabitants  of  this  Territory,  is  simply  this  :  The  man  who  se 
duces  his  neighbor's  wife  must  die,  and  her  nearest  relative  must 
kill  him." 

The  following  is  given  as  a  specimen  of  Salt  Lake  poetry. 
Like  every  thing  else  connected  with  the  singular  people  to  whom 
the  writer  belongs,  the  stanzas  of  Mr.  Phelps  are  wild  and  ec 
centric.  Of  meaning,  they  are  certainly  not  destitute  ;  but  no 
metrical  writer,  except  a  disciple  of  the  arch-mountebank,  Joseph 
Smith  (founder  of  the  preposterous  sect  of  Mormons,  or  "Latter 
Day  Saints")  would  have  adopted  so  queer  a  style  as  character 
izes  the  verses  now  quoted.  How  do  the  Mormon  fanatics  recon 
cile  the  licentious  practices  imputed  to  them,  Avith  the  gloom  of 
Mr.  Phelps's  muse",  rendered  more  oppressive  by  the  grotesque 
familiarity  of  its  utterance,  which  seems  to  fondle,  in  a  half- 
jocose  spirit,  the  mysteries  of  the  charnel-house. 

WHAT  NEXT. 

BY    W.    W.    PHELPS. 

What  next  ?     They  say 
There  is  a  spot  of  real  quiet, 
Where  ne'er  an  one  doth  fret  and  riot; 
And  yet  all  flesh  is  great  to  shy  it, 
And  would,  by  wealth  or  art,  defy  it  5 
But  ah  !   they  can't. 

What  next  ?     'Tis  said 
The  king  and  courtier,  full  of  treasure, 
The  priest  and  people,  by  long  measure, 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS,  127 


The  judge  and  lawyer,  at  their  leisure, 
Have  tried  to  snub  such  dreadfvil  pleasure. 
But  all  have  failed. 

What  next  ?     Oh,  there 
No  whisp'ring  tongue  can  speak  it, 
Or  shrinky  tub  doth  leak  it; 
The  vilest  one,  or  purest  meek-wit, 
In  perfect  peace  lies  there  a  secret — 
And  will  a  while. 

What  next  ?     Oh,  tell 
Me  where  is  such  a  place  of  sleeping, 
Where  every  thing,  in  perfect  keeping, 
Is  free  from  pain,  and  free  from  weeping  ? 
For  age  and  life  for  it  are  leaping — 

Among  the  tombs. 

What  next  ?     My  friends. 
Ye  goodly  wise,  or  fools  who  err  it — 
The  grave  takes  all  by  common  merit, 
For  there's  no  false,  contending  spirit ; 
The  finest  dust  "  grave-worms"  inherit — 
The  Grave  is  next. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Transparence  and  deep  blue  of  the  Lake  Water — Arrival  at  Green  Bay — 
An  embryo  City — Offers  for  Sale  of  Land — Steaming  up  the  Fox  River — 
Interesting  View — Spacious  Lock — Pursuit  of  Deer  swimming  across 
the  Ptiver — Numerous  Rapids — Gigantic  Chain  of  Water-communica 
tion — Village  of  Appleton — Water-power — Critical  Situation — Village 
of  Nenah — Governor  Doty — Lake  Winnebago — Exquisite  Scenery — Eli 
gible  District  for  Emigrants — Wisconsin — Fond-du-lac — Clear  Fountains 
Natural  Advantages  of  the  District — New  Plank  Road — Chain  of  Lakes 
— Extraordinary  Progress  of  Wisconsin — great  Increase  of  Population — 
— Favorite  Haunt  of  the  Menomenee  Indians. 

LEAVING  Beaver  Island,  the  steamer  stood  toward  Green  .Bay, 
in  the  smoothest  and  clearest  water  I  ever  beheld.  The  deep 
blue  of  the  transparent  element  forcibly  reminded  me  of  the 
intertropical  ocean.  The  illusion  was  almost  perfect,  and  was 
varied  only  by  the  solemn  stillness  of  the  surface,  and  absence  of 
Mother  Ocean's  ceaseless  and  majestic  roll,  even  in  her  deepest 
slumber. 

On  rising  in  the  morning,  we  were  running-  up  Green  Bay  ; 
well  named  from  its  appearance.  At  noon,  the  vessel  was  lash 
ed  alongside  the  wharf  at  the  village,  an  embryo  city. 

I  was  accosted  by  several  persons,  anxious  to  sell  farms.  Cu 
rious  to  know  their  prices,  I  led  them  on  ;  and  was  much  amused 
at  their  exorbitant  demands — about  three  times  more  than  they 
would  gladly  accept.  From  mistaken  judgment,  or  rather  mis 
taken  interest,  the  good  citizens  of  the  "Far  West"  will  never 
allow  any  place  to  be  eligible  for  the  supposed  emigrant,  but 
their  own.  This  partial  feeling  renders  it  almost  impossible  for 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  129 

a  stranger  to  form  a  true  opinion  without  a  personal  inspec 
tion. 

Alter  an  hour's  delay,  I  embarked  in  a  wretched  little  steam 
er,  and  steamed  up  the  strong  current  of  the  Fox  River.  The 
engines  were  placed  on  deck,  quite  uncovered.  The  view  was 
interesting,  from  the  fact,  that  only  four  years  had  elapsed  since 
its  cession  to  the  United  States.  The  right  bank,  going  up,  is 
still  occupied  by  wild  Indians.  Wild  woods  and  rich  farms  were 
rapidly  passed  on  the  one  hand  ;  while  the  rough  land  on  the 
other,  still  in  a  state  of  nature,  clearly  indicated  the  wild  man's 
abode. 

Six  miles  above  Green  Bay  there  is  a  spacious  lock,  which 
enables  the  steamer  to  proceed  above  the  first  rapids.  Wonder 
ful  work  for  a  State  only  three  years  old.  On  proceeding,  the 
scenery  became  wilder ;  the  woods  closing  to  the  water's  edge. 
Suddenly  a  cry  on  deck  called  my  attention ;  a  fat  buck  was 
discerned,  swimming  across  the  river.  The  movement  on  deck, 
slight  as  it  was,  attracted  the  attention  of  the  concealed  In 
dians.  In  a  moment,  a  bark  canoe  shot  out  toward  the  deer, 
frantically  propelled  by  its  dusky  crew.  The  animal  wavered 
for  a  moment,  turned  toward  the  nearest  shore,  landed,  and 
disappeared. 

This  incident  excited  the  emulation  of  a  sportsman  on  board, 
and,  immediately  after,  a  huge  duck-gun  made  its  appearance. 
In  a  short  time,  another  deer  was  descried  ahead,  taking  his 
evening's  bath.  He  did  not  appear  intimidated  by  the  approach 
ing  steamer,  but  floated  about  with  the  utmost  unconcern.  Soon, 
however,  the  loud  snorting  of  the  high-pressure  escape-pipe,  ap 
peared  to  rouse  his  attention ;  when,  turning  his  antlered  head, 
he  strove  hard  to  gain  the  nearest  shore.  Alas  !  alas  !  the  huge 
duck-gun  is  rising  to  the  eye.  The  suspense  is  horrible  !  Min 
gled  feelings  of  hope  for  the  noble  stag,  and  anxiety  for  the  suc 
cessful  shot,  are  combating  in  the  minds  of  all. 

F* 


130  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


A  loud  report,  and  the  poor  stag  disappears  ;  driven  under 
water  by  a  huge  charge  of  No.  3  shot.  Again  he  rises  ;  strikes 
vigorously  for  the  strand — achieves  it — bounds  over  a  prostrate 
tree,  and  falls  dead  ! 

The  steamer  now  struggles  hard  to  overcome  the  numerous 
rapids.  Occasionally,  a  loud  and  startling  roar  is  heard — and  a 
plug  is  blown  out  of  the  cylinder.  The  engineer  coolly  sticks  it 
in,  and  taps  it  down,  smoking  his  pipe  as  usual.  Eight  miles 
on  is  another  lock ;  enabling  the  vessel  to  ascend  six  miles  far 
ther  to  Kaukanau. 

We  have  been  particular  in  describing  the  Fox  River  thus  far, 
as  the  portage  of  nine  miles  to  Appleton  is,  at  this  moment,  the 
only  break  in  the  line  of  inland  navigation  between  the  Missis 
sippi  and  St.  Lawrence.  When  the  canal  (now  in  rapid  pro 
gress)  is  completed,  there  will  be  another  link  in  the  most 
gigantic  and  wonderful  chain  of  water-communication  the  world 
ever  beheld.  On  the  strength  of  this  communication  being 
opened,  villages  are  springing  up  on  the  banks  with  unexampled 
rapidity.  Appleton,  for  instance,  has  now  upward  of  one  thou 
sand  inhabitants.  It  is  exactly  eighteen  months  since  the  first 
tree  was  felled  ! 

The  water-power  on  this  river  must  render  it  a  place  of  some 
importance.  At  Kaukanau,  the  river  falls  forty-four  feet  in  a 
mile,  and  the  bed  is  full  of  small  islands.  This  gives  great 
advantage  for  applying  the  falling  water.  At  Appleton  the  fall 
is  thirty-four  feet  in  one  mile.  We  journeyed  the  nine  miles  of 
portage  in  a  wagon,  through  the  dense  woods.  No  person  can 
understand  the  perils  and  dangers,  from  stumps  and  swamps, 
unless  he  has  had  experience. 

Fortunately,  Mr.  Blood,  our  Jehu,  was  an  exceedingly  careful 
and  expert  driver.  After  two  hours  and  a  half  of  torment,  we 
were  brought  up  all  standing,  by  running  against  a  stump,  still 
sticking  out  of  the  swamp.  For  a  brief  space  we  rested  to  give 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  131 

the  horses  breath.  In  the  interval  the  following  dialogue  took 
place. 

First  Passenger. — "  Pray,  driver,  are  there  any  wolves  about 
here  ?" 

"  Plenty,"  answered  Mr.  Blood,  "  and  bears,  too." 

At  this  reply  the  passengers  wriggled  uneasily ;  and,  in  truth, 
the  prospect  was  dreary  enough  :  the  wagon  was  at  a  dead  lock  ; 
the  night  dark  as  pitch,  with  the  certainty  that  all  the  bridges 
were  broken,  and  the  lowlands  overflowed. 

"I  guess  I'll  get  out  said  feel  for  the  road,"  said  the  driver. 

Suiting  the  action  to  the  wrord,  out  he  jumped,  throwing  the 
reins  on  the  horses'  backs.  They,  poor  creatures,  either  jaded 
with  their  labors,  or  cowed  by  the  distant  howling  of  wolves, 
now  distinctly  heard,  remained  perfectly  still. 

Here  was  a  nice  position  for  an  English  lady,  one  of  the  pas 
sengers. 

"  Are  you  not  afraid  ?"  I  heard  her  husband  whisper  in  her  ear. 

"  No,"  replied  she  ;  "  not  while  you  are  with  me." 

At  this  moment  the  driver  returned,  exclaiming  that  he  knew 
where  he  was. 

At  his  "git  up,"  intended  as  encouragement  to  the  horses, 
-.hey  slowly  drew  us  through  the  swarnpy  soil ;  at  length,  after 
everal  hair-breadth  'scapes  we  arrived  at  Appleton. 

The  steamer  for  Winnebago  Lake,  not  being  quite  ready  for 
service,  we  were  obliged  to  take  the  usual  conveyance  ;  namely, 
the  ferry  boat 

Two  hours'  hard  work  enabled  our  lusty  rowers  to  take  us  to 
the  little  village  of  Nenah,  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Winnebago. 
After  a  hurried  dinner  I  got  on  board  the  lake  steamer,  little 
prepared  for  what  was  to  open  on  my  unprepared  vision.  For 
tunately,  I  met  an  esteemed  friend,  Mr.  Doty,  the  Governor  of 
the  State  of  Wisconsin,  who  invited  me  to  mount  the  upper  deck, 
and  see  the  view. 


TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


At  the  rate  of  thirteen  miles  an  hour,  the  high-pressure  little 
steamer  shot  out  of  the  creek  ;  and  revealed  to  our  astonished 
sight  the  most  enchanting  scenery. 

Lake  Winnebago  is  about  thirty  miles  long,  and  ten  to  twelve 
broad.  A  high  ridge  of  limestone  bounds  it  on  the  east,  trending 
at  each  end  of  the  lake  to  the  west,  nearly  as  far  as  the  Missis 
sippi.  The  eastern  shores  of  the  lake,  therefore,  slope  gradually 
down  to  the  edge  of  the  water.  Numerous  natural  clearings,  or 
prairies,  relieve  the  sameness  of  the  luxuriant  forests.  On  the 
western  side  the  land  invades  the  lake  in  long  low  capes  and 
peninsulas.  The  fragrance  of  the  air  ;  the  exquisite  verdure  of 
the  trees  ;  the  gorgeous  colors  of  the  prairie-flowers  ;  and  the 
artist-like  arrangements  of  the  :<  oak  openings,"  and  wild  mea 
dows,  are  delights  never  to  be  forgotten.  The  most  elaborate 
and  cultivated  scenery  in  Europe  falls  into  insignificance  in  com 
parison. 

I  was  struck  with  astonishment  that  such  a  ''  garden  of  Eden" 
should  be  so  little  known,  even  in  the  Eastern  States.  That 
such  extraordinary  advantages  should  be  neglected  !  After  a 
careful  examination  of  many  places  in  the  western  portion  of  the 
United  States,  I  advisedly  assert  that  the  Lake  Winnebago  district 
is  the  most  desirable  and  the  finest  in  the  world  for  emigrants. 

My  reasons  are  as  follow  :  first,  the  district  in  question  has 
communication  with  the  Atlantic  on  each  border  of  the  State. 
The  Mississippi  on  the  west ;  Lake  Michigan  on  the  east.  There 
is  likewise  a  water  passage,  before  described,  running  diagonally 
across  the  State  from  Green  Bay  to  the  Mississippi.  The  soil  is 
equal  to  any  in  America,  and  the  climate  remarkably  healthy. 
The  extent  of  water-power  is  very  great ;  the  numerous  rivers 
give  admirable  and  cheap  facilities  for  transport  of  goods  in  all 
directions.  It  is  very  rare  for  animal  and  vegetable  life  to  flour 
ish  luxuriantly  together.  In  the  Winnebago  district  of  Wisconsin, 
this  combination  of  advantages  is  quite  remarkable.  We  attril*M4d 


THE  REMOTE  SETTLEMENTS.  133 

the  rude  health  of  the  inhabitants  partly  to  the  admirable  water, 
amply  supplied  by  small  borings  or  artesian  wells.  Almost  every 
ftouse  at  Fond-du-lac,  has  its  own  crystal  fountain  spouting  from 
ihe  earth.  The  greatest  depth  to  procure  water  is  ninety  feet ; 
the  least  sixty-five.  These  delicious  fountains  rush  up  several 
feet  above  the  surface,  and  are  so  remarkably  clear,  that  it  is 
difficult  to  perceive  whether  a  vessel  filled  with  it  contains 
water  or  not.  The  whole  limestone  valley  is  said  to  be  blest 
with  the  same  bounteous  privilege.  No  wonder  the  inhabitants 
enjoy  such  rude  health  ;  for,  besides  this  great  advantage,  the 
climate  is  not  of  that  wearing  arid  exhausting  character  peculiar 
to  most  parts  of  the  United  States.  Numerous  villages  are 
rising  up  all  round  the  lake.  No  doubt,  ere  long,  they  are 
destined  to  be  populous  and  wealthy  cities.  During  the  present 
year,  a  plank  road  will  be  completed  from  Lake  "Winnebago  to 
Kaukanau.  This  line  will  shorten  the  distance  to  navigable 
water ;  being  only  nine  miles.  The  canal  previously  alluded 
to,  is  compelled  to  take  a  circuitous  route,  with  great  natural 
disadvantages. 

A  chain  of  lakes  are  joined  to  Lake  Winnebago  by  the  Fox 
and  Wolf  rivers  ;  all  enjoying  similar  advantages.  The  climate 
is  much  more  equable  than  the  same  latitude  on  the  sea-board, 
and  is  quite  free  from  fever  or  ague. 

This  country  has  an  extraordinary  effect  upon  the  imagina 
tion.  Nearly  all  the  ramblers  from  the  other  States  of  the 
Union  settle  in  the  district.  This  is  one  of  the  reasons  of  the 
extraordinary  progress  of  Wisconsin,  which  was  first  settled  by 
Americans,  chiefly  from  the  Northern  and  Eastern  States,  and 
since  largely  augmented  by  emigrants  from  Europe.  It  was 
created  into  a  territorial  government  in  1836,  and  admitted  into 
the  Union  in  1848.  Area  53,984  square  miles.  Population  in 
1840,  30,000.  In  1847,  212,000.  It  is  now  estimated  at  near 
ly  half  a  million. 


134  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

At  the  outlet  of  the  Lake  Winnebago  is  an  island,  containing 
eight  hundred  acres,  the  favorite  haunt,  for  ages,  of  the  Meno- 
menee  Indians  ;  and  in  truth  they  are  capital  judges  of  locations. 
I  was  fortunate  enough  to  receive  an  invitation  to  this  favored 
spot ;  and  by  the  great  kindness,  and  assistance  of  my  host,  the 
Governor  of  Wisconsin,  the  Honorable  James  Duane  Doty,  I  was 
enabled,  not  only  to  enjoy  the  finest  sport,  but  likewise  to  inves 
tigate  the  best  means  of  securing  "  first-rate  shooting"  for  any 
adventurous  English  spirit  that  may  despise  the  narrow,  and 
very  expensive  limits  of  the  "  sea  girt  isles." 

Not  to  interfere  with  the  continuity  of  my  narrative,  1  will 
commence  a  fresh  chapter,  with  my  adventures  on  leaving  Mil- 
waukie,  bound  on  a  visit  to  Governor  Doty. 


SPORTING  EXCURSION. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Preparation  for  Shooting  and  Angling — Embark  in  a  Lake  Steamer  for 
Sheboygan — A  young  English  Emigrant — Abundance  of  Game — Form 
ation  of  a  Plank-road — Origin  and  Effects  of  this  new  Kind  of  Highway 
— Travelling  Disasters — Hospitality  in  the  Wilderness — Approach  to 
Fond-du-lac — A  rolling  Prairie — Rapid  Rise  of  the  Village  of  Fond-du- 
lac — Indians  driven  from  their  Land — Abundance  of  Sturgeon — Town 
of  Oskosh — A  Lake  Island — Agriculture  of  the  Wild  Man — Wild  Vines 
and  Cucumbers — Bears  attracted  by  the  Abundance  of  Fruit — A  Bear 
Battue — Sad  Catastrophe — Interview  with  a  Tribe  of  Indians — Visit  to 
their  Encampment — Their  Cookery. 

HEAVILY  laden  with  guns,  ammunition,  and  fishing  gear,  I 
was  glad  to  find  myself  on  board  the  steamer  lying  at  the  Mil- 
waukie  quay,  and  bound  to  Sheboygan. 

In  a  few  moments,  the  vessel  glided  out  into  Lake  Michigan, 
cutting  the  smooth  and  glass-like  surface  as  she  ran  along  the 
densely-wooded  cliffs.  After  a  run  of  six  hours,  we  arrived  at 
Sheboygan,  the  nearest  point  to  any  practicable  road  to  Lake 
Winnebago. 

After  a  short  delay,  I  engaged  a  wagon  and  team,  sharing 
the  conveyance  with  a  young  Englishman  from  Ringwood,  in 
Hampshire,  who  was  proceeding  west  to  try  his  fortune  *  as  a 

*  We  have  since  heard  that  he  settled  at  Menasha,  and  is  on  the  high- 
•oad  to  fortune. 


136  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


painter  and  glazier.  All  the  baggage,  about  seven  hundred 
weight,  being  carefully  stowed  away,  we  started  at  a  smart  pace 
on  a  capital  plank  road.  In  high  spirits  at  this  favorable  com 
mencement,  I  loaded  my  gun,  lighted  a  fragrant  Havanna,  and 
kept  my  eyes  on  the  alert  for  a  shot.  I  was  not  disappointed, 
as  quails,  pigeons,  ducks,  and  other  birds  were  constantly  ex 
posing  themselves  as  we  drove  along. 

After  twelve  miles  of  this  easy  work  the  wagon  came  to  the 
end  of  the  plank,  where  a  party  of  men  were  engaged  with  a 
locomotive  saw-mill  ;  the  engine  sawing  up  the  trees  that  were 
cut  ready  for  the  men  to  lay  as  fast  as  the  road  was  graded.  The 
usual  dimensions  of  the  plank  are  eight  feet  long,  three  inches 
thick,  and  varying  in  breadth. 

The  effect  of  these  roads  on  the  western  woods,  is  quite  mar 
velous.*  It  is  said  that  the  first  of  them  was  made  by  a  private 
gentleman  in  Canada,  to  remedy  a  few  rods  of  swampy  bottom 
on  a  road  adjoining  his  estate,  through  which  he  had  often  to 
travel.  As  this  road  likewise  benefited  travelers  in  general,  he 
nailed  a  box  to  a  tree,  soliciting  contributions  to  keep  the  road 
in  repair.  The  benefit  of  the  plank  road  was  generally  acknowl 
edged,  and  the  box  not  only  received  voluntary  contributions  suf- 
cient  to  repair  the  road,  but  to  pay  a  very  handsome  interest. 
This  first  gave  the  idea  of  the  plank-road,  which  is  now  very  gen 
erally  adopted  in  Canada  and  the  United  States.  It  is  allowed, 
that  if  a  plank-road  is  only  projected  with  a  certainty  of  being 
carried  out,  the  lands  adjacent  rise  in  value  one  hundred  per 
cent ;  and  that  when  completed,  it  is  difficult  to  estimate  the 
rise  in  the  value  of  land,  it  is  so  immense.  The  whole  neighbor 
hood  becomes  settled  immediately.  The  companies  or  individuals 
who  const-Met  the  roads,  procure  charters  from  the  government, 
and  generally  receive  a  large  dividend.  The  tolls  vary  from 
half  a  *ent  to  two  cents  a  mile  (or  from  a  farthing  to  a  penny.) 
*  See  Appendix. 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  137 

The  first  plunge  of  the  horses  from  the  smooth  plank  to  the 
common  rough  road  was  sad  indeed.  A  box  of  glass,  part  of  our 
young  Englishman's  venture,  was  shot  out  of  the  wagon,  and 
smashed  to  pieces.  All  the  travelers  jumped  out  to  assist  in 
11  the  strait,"  and  found  one  wheel  up  to  the  axle  in  a  mud 
hole.  A  violent  effort  of  all  hands  extricated  the  wagon,  and 
we  attempted  to  proceed.  But,  alas  !  every  yard  was  a  mud- 
hole  or  a  stump  ;  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  all  shot  clean 
out  into  the  mud,  and  the  wagon  capsized.  This  second  disas 
ter  took  a  considerable  time  to  repair,  and  the  young  Englishman 
lost  a  large  can  of  varnish. 

When  the  wagon  was  once  more  loaded,  we  found  that  the 
horses  were  unable  to  drag  it  out  of  the  mire.  As  the  evening 
was  approaching,  we  left  the  "  ship  fast  anchored"  in  the  mud, 
and  sought  a  shelter  for  the  night,  which  was  afforded  us  in  a 
frank  and  hospitable  manner  by  a  Vermont  man.  His  wiio 
spread  before  us  excellent  tea,  bread,  butter,  and  bacon,  anu 
made  us  as  comfortable  as  possible. 

The  following  morning  at  day-light  we  were  afoot ;  and  as  we 
heard  that  the  road  did  not  improve,  a.  team  of  oxen  was  hired 
to  aid  our  progress.  With  this  addition  to  our  power,  we  suc 
ceeded  in  dragging  the  wagon  from  its  "  mud  bed,"  and  advanced 
about  three  miles.  Here  the  heavy  vehicle  again  sank  in  a  mua- 
hole,  and  appeared  to  be  gradually  settling  down.  All  hands 
were  hastily  engaged  in  unloading  the  goods,  and  placing  *ihem 
on  firm  ground  ;  but  every  effort  to  drag  out  the  wagon  was  use 
less,  and  the  unfortunate  machine  was  gradually  sinking  ou^  of 
sight.  One  of  the  party  was  now  dispatched  for  more  aid,  and  the 
remainder  made  a  fire  and  prepared  to  dress  some  game.  G,  c 
messenger  fortunately  discovered,  at  no  great  distance,  an  Irish 
man  at  plow  with  two  teams  of  fine  oxen.  A  promise  of  libera 
payment  induced  him  to  leave  his  plow  and  come  to  our  assistance. 

The  four  teams,  three  of  oxen  and  one  of  horses,  were  now  at- 


138  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


tached,  and  with  a  liberal  allowance  of  "  oxen-talk"  and  whip, 
the  unfortunate  wagon  was  drawn  out  of  its  oozy  bed. 

Li  this  manner  the  cavalcade  proceeded  until  once  more  it 
gained  the  plank  road,  about  four  miles  from  Fond-du-lac.  The 
unplaiiked  part  of  the  road  was  twenty-four  miles,  and  occupied 
two  days  in  passing  with  six  upsettings.  The  planked  remain 
der  (sixteen  miles)  was  easily  passed  over  by  a  single  team  of 
horses  in  two  hours. 

This  will  give  some  idea  of  the  immense  advantage  of  these 
plank  roads.  In  fact,  the  new  country  that  is  without  them,  has 
little  or  no  value,  as  the  farmer  can  not  carry  his  produce  to  mar 
ket,  or  get  his  supplies. 

Ten  miles  from  Fcnd-du-lac,  the  dense  forests  begin  to  sepa 
rate,  and  small  prairies  are  visible.  Gradually  as  the  lake  is 
approached,  the  trees  get  still  wider  apart ;  and,  at  last,  from  a 
small  thicket,  the  beautiful  rolling  prairie  bursts  upon  the  view, 
stretching  along  with  a  gradual  descent,  until  it  joins,  in  a  ver 
dant  lawn,  the  silvery  waters  of  Lake  Winnebago.  The  numer 
ous  and  variegated  wild  flowers,  the  exceeding  richness  of  the 
soil,  and  the  appearance  of  a  highly-cultivated  landscape,  produce 
an  extraordinary  effect  on  the  traveler. 

Fond-du-lac  is  a  small  village,  with  a  population  of  about 
2400.  Five  years  ago  it  was  a  desert  !  I  was  walking  in  the 
streets  of  this  town  with  one  of  the  principal  men  of  the  State, 
who  led  me  to  a  particular  spot,  and  pointed  to  a  very  slight  in 
dication  of  a  path. 

"Listen  to  me,"  said  he,  "  listen  to  that  which  will  hereafter 
be  considered  an  historical  marvel.  Seven  years  ago,  in  an  of 
ficial  capacity,  I  landed  from  the  lake,  and  attempted  to  follow 
this  indistinct  path,  which  at  that  time  was  well  beaten  and 
well  denned — it  was  the  great  Indian  trail  to  the  Mississippi. 
On  this  spot"  (pointing  to  the  ground  whereon  he  stood),  "  I 
was  met  by  a  large  party  of  Indian  warriors,  headed  by  their 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  139 

chief,  who  addressed  me  as  follows  :  '  White  man,  thou  canst 
not  pass ;  we  know  that  a  pale  face,  once  allowed  to  see  our 
country,  will  bring  swarms  after  him,  and  drive  us  out.  Go  in 
peace,  but  do  not  attempt  to  return.'  " 

My  companion,  balked  for  the  moment,  returned  to  his  canoe, 
and  pretended  to  retire.  Making  a  long  detour,  he  surveyed  the 
country  from  several  elevated  positions,  and  finally  succeeded  in 
his  object.  Two  years  after,  the  tide  of  immigration  set  in,  and 
the  effects  are  now  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  age. 

The  poor  Indians,  quite  right  in  their  anticipations,  are  long 
since  removed  beyond  the  Mississippi.  Numerous  bands,  however, 
constantly  return  to  see  once  more  the  "  loved  spot."  It  is  said 
that  they  are  so  intensely  attached  to  this  district,  that  the  tribe 
are  gradually  pining  away.  They  look  upon  it  as  a  "  Paradise 
Lost."  Truly  it  has  every  advantage  to  make  it  the  wild  man's 
Eden. 

The  following  morning  I  embarked  for  the  other  extremity  of 
the  lake,  and,  during  the  voyage,  was  astonished  at  the  number 
of  large  fish  constantly  leaping  out  of  the  water.  On  inquiry,  I 
found  they  were  sturgeon.  This  fish,  described  as  being  in  qual 
ity  infinitely  superior  to  any  that  are  found  in  other  lakes,  con 
stituted  the  principal  article  of  winter  food  for  the  Indians,  and 
were  extensively  used  by  them  for  purposes  of  traffic  with  distant 
tribes. 

Fifteen  miles  coasting  along  the  western  shores  brought  us  to 
Oskosh,  a  small  town  of  1600  inhabitants.  Nothing  can  exceed 
the  beauty  of  this  coast,  nor  the  effect  of  the  prairie  openings 
(gracefully  timbered),  as  they  extend  in  long,  low  points.  Oc 
casionally  a  small  copse  completely  smothered  with  vines  and 
creepers,  and  fringed  with  fantastic  shrubberies  of  sumac-gum, 
gemmed  the  prairie. 

Oskosh  is  built  at  the  mouth  of  Fox  River,  which  now  commu 
nicates  with  the  Wisconsin  and  Mississippi.  A  few  miles  above 


140  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


the  lake,  a  branch  (the  Wolf)  runs  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
northerly,  into  extensive  pine  lands,  thus  rendering  Lake  Winne- 
bago  the  centre  of  a  vast  field  of  commerce.  These  advantages 
will,  no  doubt,  soon  render  it  a  place  of  considerable  importance. 

Leaving  Oskosh,  the  steamer  still  coasted  the  western  shores, 
which  became  fringed  with  dense  woods,  and  arrived  at  the  end 
of  the  lake,  where  it  discharges  its  waters  by  two  channels  into 
the  Fox  River.  The  island,  which  the  two  outlets  form,  is  the 
beau  ideal"  of  an  Indian's  habitation.  Divided  from  the  main 
land  on  each  side  by  a  channel  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
broad,  they  unite  at  the  northern  end,  forming  a  miniature  lake, 
the  little  "  Butte  des  Morts."  A*,  the  water  has  a  descent  of  ten 
feet  along  the  shore  of  the  island,  it  is  admirably  adapted  for  fish 
ing.  Indeed  the  Indians  often  travel  hundreds  of  miles  to  enjoy 
this  sport  in  their  old  and  favorite  hone.  I  never  beheld  such 
swarms  of  fish  in  my  experience  ;  and  from  the  numerous  "  rises" 
after  flies,  I  should  think  it  must  be  a  first-rate  place  for  fly 
fishing. 

The  island  is  now  named  after  its  owner,  J.  D.  Doty,  the  Gov 
ernor  of  Wisconsin.  It  was  fondly  called  "  Menasha,"  literally 
"  The  Island,"  par  excellence,  of  the  poor  fugitive  Indians.  And 
truly  it  speaks  well  for  the  wild  man's  taste,  as  a  more  beautiful 
location  would  be  impossible  to  find. 

In  his  own  untutored  way,  the  wild  man  has  been  for  thousands 
of  years,  trying  to  decorate  this  favorite  place.  Numerous  wild 
fruits  of  every  description  abound  on  the  diminutive  prairies  and 
oak  openings ;  and  although  neglect  has  fallen  on  this  island 
since  the  departure  of  the  Indians,  which  has  not  yet  been  recti 
fied  by  civilization,  the  quantity  of  wild  fruit  in  the  autumn  is 
prodigious. 

The  lake  shore,  looking  south,  is  fringed  occasionally  with 
trees,  both  large  and  small,  some  of  the  latter  of  which  are 
smothered  with  wild  vines,  loaded  with  fruit.  The  grapes,  of 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  141 

course,  for  want  of  cultivation,  are  rather  sour.  Wild  cucumbers 
vie  with  the  vines  in  excluding  the  sun's  rays  from  the  unfortu 
nate  trees,  and  frequently  stifle  them  with  parasitical  embraces. 
In  some  instances,  an  ambitious  vine  has  exclusively  devoted 
itself  and  succeeded  in  entwining  the  trunk,  with  its  huge  folds, 
to  the  height  of  forty  or  fifty  feet ;  then  thrusting  out  its  arms, 
unfolds  its  flaunUxig  foliage  amidst  the  leafy  garments  of  its  sup 
porter,  arid  strives  to  gain  the  greatest  share  of  heat  and  light : 
its  purple  bunches  aloft  give  a  singular  tropical  appearance  to 
the  scene.  I  found  the  stem  of  one  of  these  vines  as  large  as  3 
stout  man's  thigh  ;  no  doubt  many  are  larger. 

This  abundance  of  fruit  attracts  the  wild  animals,  far  and 
near.  The  bears  regard  it  as  a  pet  place,  and  the  alarm  was 
constantly  sounded  that  a  huge  Bruin  was  swimming  from  the 
main  land.  If  he  was  perceived  in  time,  men  were  posted  be 
hind  a  sumac-bush,  affording  a  convenient  ambush  at  the  point 
for  which  he  steered.  Many  bears  were  shot  in  this  manner,  but 
some  passed  over  in  the  night,  and  played  sad  havoc  in  the  hog- 
sties  and  gardens.  A  small  and  jungly  swamp,  in  the  middle 
of  the  island,  afforded  a  secure  asylum,  out  of  which  it  would  be 
extremely  difficult  to  dislodge  these  brutes. 

I  attended  one  of  these  bear  battues,  but  was  significantly 
warned,  by  the  frequent  unpleasant  proximity  of  the  whistle  of 
a  rifle  ball,  that  juvenile  Yankees  with  rifles,  in  a  cover,  are 
more  dangerous  neighbors  than  one  cares  to  be  v^'th.  Thinking 
prudence  the  better  part  of  valor,  I  shouldereu  *?  /  rifle,  and 
marched  home,  albeit  rather  lingeringly,  being  excited  by  the 
loud  and  exhilarating  shouts  and  repeated  crack  of  rifles.  Per 
haps  this  was  fortunate  for  me,  for  a  sad  catastrophe  finished 
the  battue.  A  young  man  shot  his  own  brother  through  the 
heart,  mistaking  him,  as  he  stooped  in  the  brushwood,  for  a 
bear. 

Returning  by  a  bridge  that  spans  the  eastern  river,  I  per- 


142  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

ceived  a  "withered  atomy"  crouching  on  her  hams,  angling. 
She  was  an  old  Indian  crone,  just  arrived  with  her  tribe  from  a 
journey  of  several  hundred  miles,  to  revisit  once  more  the  loved 
scenes  of  their  youth. 

Grounding  my  rifle,  and  lighting  a  cigar,  I  stood  quite  still, 
watching  the  old  woman.  She  did  riot  pay  the  slightest  regard 
to  me,  but  tended  her  line  with  eager  expectation.  I  did  not 
know  which  to  admire  most — her  wonderful  skill,  or  the  profu 
sion  of  strange  (to  me)  and  beautiful  fish  that,  hooked  by  her, 
were  speedily  flapping  at  our  feet;  large  fish  and  small  fish, 
white  fish  and  dark  fish  ;  all  of  which  were  quite  novel  to  me, 
in  fresh  water,  at  all  events. 

In  the  height  of  her  success,  I  perceived  the  approach  of  a 
small  cavalcade.  It  consisted  of  a  tall,  handsome,  mounted  In 
dian,  followed  by  his  squaw,  likewise  mounted,  with  her  child  at 
her  back,  and  another,  of  seven  years  old,  also  on  horseback.  In 
rear  of  the  three  Indian  ponies  and  their  riders,  some  ugly  curs, 
of  decidedly  "hang-dog"  expression,  advanced  in  sullen  silence; 
looking  neither  right  nor  left,  nor  taking  the  slightest  notice  of 
any  one.  This  piqued  my  curiosity. 

After  the  wild  procession  had  passed  to  some  distance,  I  shout 
ed,  as  a  signal  to  stop,  and  hastened  forward  to  address  them. 
Signs  and  gestures  were,  however,  the  only  means  of  communi 
cation  ;  and  I  and  my  savage  friends  walked  on  together  in 
silence.  As  I  wished  to  conciliate  the  Indian,  and  examine  his 
wigwam,  I  thought  it  might  be  politic  to  attack  him  through 
the  organ  of  philoprogenitiveness.  Accordingly,  I  pulled  a  silk 
handkerchief  from  my  neck,  walked  close  up  to  the  squaw's 
pony,  and  tied  it  round  the  child's  throat.  This  did  not  alter 
the  demeanor  of  the  Indians  in  the  slightest  perceptible  degree  ; 
but  I  determined  to  accompany  them,  and  examine  their  domes 
tic  arrangements. 

The  dingy  little  "  red-skin"  was  extremely  delighted ;  it  eyed 


SPORTING  EXCURSION. 


the  colored  silk  with  the  greatest  eagerness,  and  thrust  the  end 
in  its  mother's  face,  who,  although  she  must  have  felt  the  great 
est  joy  in  possessing  so  choice  a  piece  of  finery,  was  true  to  her 
Indian  nature,  and  did  not  exhibit  the  slightest  emotion. 

Feeling  by  this  time,  secure  of  a  favorable  reception  at  theu 
encampment,  I  determined  to  partake  of  their  hospitality,  should 
it  be  proffered.  We  soon  arrived  at  the  lodges,  numbering  three, 
and  composed  of  long  sticks,  entwined,  and  covered  with  skins 
&c.  A  fire  was  soon  made,  gipsy  fashion,  and  a  large  pot  sus 
pended  over  the  embers. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  old  crone  from  her  fishing,  the  bunch  of 
fish  was  carelessly  pitched  into  the  diit,  and  the  cookery  com 
menced.  At  this  moment,  another  Indian  came  in  with  a  stocV 
of  squirrels,  larger  and  fatter  than  I  ever  beheld  ;  black,  gray, 
mouse-colored,  red,  and  though  last,  not  least,  a  fine  specimen 
of  the  flying  squirrel,  were  among  the  store.  I  seized  hold  of 
this  last,  and  examined  it  with  great  interest  ;  while  the  cook 
was  busily  employed  in  skinning  his  brethren,  and  popping  them 
into  the  pot.  At  length  she  looked  for  the  one  I  was  examining. 
I  held  it  out  to  her  by  the  tail,  suspended  over  the  cooking  mess  ; 
when,  with  a  dextrous  movement  of  her  knife,  she  severed  the 
body,  which  fell  plump  into  the  seething  caldron. 

I  now  began  to  doubt  the  prudence  of  dining  with  such  com 
panions,  although  the  mess  smelt  very  invitingly.  My  doubts 
were  speedily  changed  to  certainty,  by  seeing  fish,  scales,  entrails, 
and  all  thrown  into  the  caldron,  and  to  cap  the  climax,  some 
rats  were  pulled  from  a  heap  of  rubbish,  and  actually  added  to 
the  stew.  My  stomach  began  to  mutiny,  and  I  was  perempto 
rily  compelled  to  run  ofF. 

But  let  me  not  be  partial  in  my  animadversions  on  the  Indian 
cuisine.  Truth  compels  me  to  declare,  that  the  cookery  of  many 
white  people  among  the  western  folks  is  quite  as  crude,  thougL 
much  cleaner.  Their  waste  and  extravagance  is  painful  to  be- 


141  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


hold.  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  no  civilized  people  in  the 
world  are  so  utterly  careless  in  their  preparation  of  food  as  the 
new  settlers  in  the  Far  West.  Their  method  of  treating  the 
grouse  is  worth  relating,  as  a  notable  instance  of  the  perversion 
of  delicate  edibles.  The  housewife,  on  receiving  the  birds,  throws 
them  (whole)  into  water,  and  lets  them  soak  till  wanted  ;  some 
times  thirty-six  hours.  They  are  then  cut  apart,  as  if  to  stew, 
or  curry,  and  put  in  a  saucepan  to  boil.  Tl  e  meat  is  sodden, 
and  utterly  spoiled,  and  the  "  gude-wife"  is  indignant  if  the  dish 
is  not  relished. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Fine  Ground  for  Deer-shooting  and  other  Sport — Preparation  for  an 
Orchard — Nature  of  the  Soil — Turtle's  Eggs — Grove  of  Sugar-maples — 
Earth-mounds  in  the  Shape  of  Animals — Evidences  of  a  civilized  but  ex 
tinct  Race — Remarks  in  Corroboratiori  of  this  Theory — Curious  Conver 
sation  with  a  Scottish  Emigrant — The  Advantages  of  settling  in  Wis 
consin — A  six  Weeks'  Exploration — A  vast  Prairie  covered  by  a  Mist 
— Singular  Mode  of  steering  across  it  by  the  aid  of  Resin-grass. 

THE  eastern  shore  of  this  lake  is,  perhaps,  the  finest  ground 
for  deer-shooting  in  the  States.  It  is  covered  with  a  heavy 
growth  of  the  finest  and  largest  trees  we  have  seen  in  North 
America.  These  woods  are  intersected  at  all  points  with  deer 
paths,  most  of  which  terminate  on  the  shores  of  the  lake.  By 
placing  a  boat,  or  boats,  at  certain  points,  and  putting  two  or 
three  stanch,  but  slow  hounds  in  the  woods,  any  number  of  deer 
may  be  driven  into  the  lake.  This  method  of  shooting  is  of 
course  used  only  in  the  summer.  The  small  creeks,  and  sloughs, 
are  absolutely  swarming  with  wild  fowl  in  the  autumn,  when 
they  congregate  in  vast  quantities,  preparing  to  migrate  south  in 
the  beginning  of  winter.  Here  they  get  fat  upon  the  wild  rice, 
and  are  delicious  eating.  Woodcocks  breed  in  this  part  of  Wis 
consin,  and  are  to  be  found  in  vast  numbers.  In  a  small  garden, 
attached  to  the  Governor's  house,  of  not  more  than  one  acre,  it 
was  usual  to  kill  three  couple  of  woodcocks  every  morning  before 
breakfast.  But  the  chief  glory,  in  a  sporting  sense,  I  conceive 
to  be  the  grouse-shooting.  The  vast  prairies  on  the  west  side  of 
the  lake,  must  be  swarming  with  these  great  fat  fellows.  I  say 


346  TOUE  IN  AMERICA. 


"  must  be,"  as  I  had  not  the  means  to  decide  positively.  I  went 
frequently  with  one  slow  and  pottering  but  very  good  pointer, 
and  generally  took  a  straight  course -to  some  spot  which  capti 
vated  my  fancy.  I  never  failed  killing  as  many  as  I  required  on 
whatever  course  I  chose. 

With  proper  dogs,  the  sport  on  the  western  prairies  would 
greatly  surpass  any  afforded  on  the  best  moors  in  Scotland.  The 
few  settlers  who  have  recently  taken  up  land  on  these  wild 
meadows,  complain  much  of  the  increase  of  grouse.  It  is  indeed 
a  singular  fact,  that  game  increases  rapidly  with  the  first  settle 
ment  of  a  new  country.  When,  however,  the  population  arrives 
at  a  certain  point,  the  game  as  rapidly  decreases,  and  often  in 
America  disappears  altogether. 

During  a  stroll  on  the  south  side  of  Doty  Island,  I  was  much 
interested  in  watching  the  proceedings  of  a  number  of  Irishmen, 
who  were  busily  engaged  in  digging  up  for  an  orchard  some 
virgin 'ground  scantily  covered  with  prairie  grass,  of  which  the 
roots  hardly  penetrated  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  The  soil,  when 
turned,  was  black  and  unctuous,  and  looked  almost  like  choco 
late.  These  clods  are  extremely  friable  after  a  few  days'  exposure 
to  the  air ;  and,  although  the  first  plowing  takes  from  three  to 
six  teams  of  oxen,  it  can  easily  be  worked  afterward  by  one 
team. 

While  examining  this  grain-teeming  earth,  I  perceived  several 
curiously  shaped  eggs  turned  up  with  the  spade.  On  inquiry,  I 
was  informed  by  the  Irish  diggers  that  they  were  snakes'  eggs. 
Not  readily  believing  this  statement,  I  broke  one,  and  to  my 
infinite  astonishment,  found  a  fully  developed  little  turtle,  or 
terrapin,  which  fell  struggling  to  the  earth,  and  immediately 
made  an  effort  to  walk  down  to  the  lake.  This  was  a  novel 
discovery,  and  I  had  much  difficulty  to  persuade  the  inhabitants 
of  the  fact,  until  the  little  animal  was  produced  from  my  pocket. 

Still  continuing  my  stroll ,  I  entered  a  magnificent  grove  of 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  147 


sugar-maples  without  any  underwood.  On  admiring  the  size 
and  growth  of  these  venerable  trees,  my  companion  called  my 
attention  to  some  earth-mounds  in  the  shape  of  prostrate  animals 
such  as  beavers,  bears,  deer,  squirrels,  &c.  These  were  of 
gigantic  proportions,  very  distinctly  marked  and  discriminated, 
evidently  the  work  of  some  ancient  and  unknown  race.  Much 
speculation  has  been  already  induced  by  the  discovery  of  singular 
architectural  and  sculptured  remains  in  Central  America,  which 
can  not  possibly  be  ascribed  to  the  red  Indians.  May  not  the 
evidences  I  have  just  mentioned  offer  an  additional  testimony  to 
the  existence  of  a  race  of  inhabitants,  possessing  some  civilization, 
which  has  now  entirely  passed  away  ?  Over  a  vast  amount  of 
ground,  including  these  figures  of  animals,  and  covered  by  dense 
forests,  the  remains  of  ancient  Indian  corn-hills  may  be  traced, 
clearly  indicating  that  two  distinct  races  have  been  masters  of 
the  land  before  the  maple  trees  above  alluded  to  had  rooted 
themselves. 

The  following  remarks  (from  the  "  Ancient  Monuments  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley")  thoroughly  corroborate  our  assertions  on  this 
singular  subject. 

"  The  strongest  and  most  indisputable  evidence  in  favor  of  the 
antiquity  of  these  works  of  man  is,  however,  afforded  by  the 
monuments  which  nature  has  raised  on  their  ruins.  In  numer 
ous  cases,  where  the  forest-trees,  which  now  cover  the  majority 
of  these  mounds  and  embankments,  have  been  examined,  annual 
rings,  denoting  a  growth  of  from  six  hundred  to  eight  hundred 
years,  have  been  counted  on  their  trunks.  But  even  these 
eight  hundred  years  do  not  bring  us  near  to  the  date  of  the 
erection  of  these  works ;  for  it  has  been  observed  by  those  who 
have  given  attention  to  these  matters,  that  a  homogeneity  of 
character  is  peculiar  to  the  first  growth  of  trees  on  lands  once 
cleared  and  then  abandoned  to  nature,  whereas  the  sites  of  the 
ancient  works  which  we  have  been  describing  present  the  same 


148  TOUft  IN  AMERICA. 


appearance  as  the  circumjacent  forests,  being  covered  with  the 
same  beautiful  varieties  of  trees. 

"  In  a  discourse  on  the  aborigines  of  Ohio,  the  late  President 
Harrison  of  the  United  States,  after  having  stated,  that  upon  the 
first  clearing  of  the  forest  certain  trees  of  strong  and  rapid 
growth  spring  up  in  such  profusion  as  entirely  to  smother  the 
others  of  more  weakly  nature  which  attempt  to  grow  in  their 
shade,  expresses  himself  as  follows  :  This  state  of  things  will  not, 
however,  always  continue  ;  the  preference  of  the  soil  for  its  first 
growth  ceases  with  its  maturity  ;  it  admits  of  no  succession  on 
the  principle  of  legitimacy  :  the  long  undisputed  masters  of  the 
forest  may  be  thinned  by  the  lightning,  tempests,  or  by  diseases 
peculiar  to  themselves ;  and  whenever  this  is  the  case,  one  of  the 
oft-rejected  of  another  family  will  find  between  its  decaying  roots 
shelter  and  appropriate  food  ;  and,  springing  into  vigorous  growth 
will  soon  push  its  green  foliage  to  the  sky,  through  the  withered 
limbs  of  its  blasted  and  dying  adversary  ;  the  soil  itself  yielding  a 
more  liberal  support  than  any  scion  from  the  former  occupants. 
It  will  easily  be  conceived  what  a  length  of  time  will  be  re 
quired  for  a  denuded  tract  of  land,  by  a  process  so  slow,  again  to 
clothe  itself  with  the  amazing  variety  of  foliage  which  is  the 
characteristic  of  the  forests  of  these  regions.  Of  what  immense 
age,  then,  must  be  these  works,  so  often  recurred  to,  covered 
with  the  second  growth  after  the  ancient  forest  state  had  been 
regained  ! 

"  In  the  north  and  northwestern  part  of  the  territory  over 
which  these  ancient  remains  spread,  in  Wisconsin,  and  also 
Michigan,  Iowa,  &c.,  the  earth-works  assume  a  character  so 
different  from  any  we  have  as  yet  surveyed,  as  almost  to  induce 
a  belief  that  they  must  be  the  productions  of  a  distinct  race. 

"  The  animal-shaped  mounds  are  situated  upon  undulating 
prairies  and  level  plains  ;  and  although  of  inconsiderable  height, 
averaging  four  feet,  are  distinctly  visible,  and  the  imagination 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  149 

is  not  taxed  to  trace  in  them  the  resemblance  of  bears,  alligators, 
foxes,  pigs,  men,  monkeys,  and  birds.  They  principally  occur  in 
the  vicinity  of  large  water-courses,  arid  are  always  placed  above 
the  reach  of  the  annual  inundations." 

One  of  these  embossed  figures  in  Wisconsin  is  described  as 
follows  : 

"  It  represents  a  human  figure  having  two  heads,  which  grace 
fully  recline  over  the  shoulders.  It  is  well  preserved.  The  arms 
are  disproportionately  long.  The  various  portions  of  the  figure 
are  gracefully  rounded  ;  the  stomach  and  breasts  are  full,  and 
well  proportioned.  Its  dimensions  are,  from  one  armpit  over  the 
breast  to  the  other,  25  feet ;  across  the  arms  at  the  shoulders, 
12  feet,  and  tapering  to  4  feet  at  the  extremities.  Over  the 
hips,  the  breadth  is  20  feet  ;  and  over  the  legs,  near  the  body, 
8.  The  figure  above  the  shoulders  measures  in  width,  15  feet ; 
each  neck  8,  and  the  circumference  of  both,  10.  Length  of  body, 
50  feet.  Some  of  these  mounds  have  been  excavated,  and  found 
to  contain  human  remains." 

While  on  this  spot,  I  was  much  amused  at  falling  in  with  an 
old  acquaintance,  in  the  shape  of  an  under-keeper  from  one  of 
the  Scottish  moors.  He  had  emigrated  two  years,  and  had 
become  owner  of  a  small  farm.  His  remarks  were  shrewd  and 
entertaining. 

"  Ah,  Sir,"  said  he,  "  if  the  quality  in  England  only  knew 
there  was  a  place  like  this,  do  you  think  they  would  go  and  pay 
such  extravagant  rents  for  the  mere  shooting  in  Scotland  ?  No, 
Sir,  not  they.  My  old  master  paid  £500  a  year  for  his  moor 
adjacent  to  Loch  Ness." 

"And  pray  what  did  he  get  for  it  ?" 

"Why  not  half  such  sport  as  he  can  get  here,"  replied  he. 

"Truly,"  I  rejoined;  "but  remember  the  distance,  and  ex 
pense  of  coming  here." 

"As  for  the  distance,"  responded  he,  "you  can,  at  present,  be 


150  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


here  from  London  in  fourteen  days.  In  two  years  the  rail  will 
be  finished  to  Fond-du-lac,  and  you  will  be  enabled  to  get  here 
in  eleven  days.  The  expense,  as  I  will  prove,  will  not  only  be 
far  less,  but  it  may  be  turned  into  a  positive  gain." 

I  pricked  up  my  ears  at  this  assertion,  and  requested  my  old 
acquaintance,  the  ex-keeper,  to  proceed. 

"  Well,  Sir,  look'ee  here  :  suppose  a  party  of  five  gentlemen 
subscribe  £500  apiece,  that  will  be  £2500.  With  £1500 
they  can  purchase  a  quantity  of  land,  and  build  an  excellent 
house,  stable,  and  offices,  on  Doty  Island,  in  a  position  which, 
in  ten  years'  time,  will  increase  greatly  in  value  as  an  eligible 
site  for  building  allotments.  The  very  fact  of  such  an  establish 
ment  by  wealthy  English  gentlemen  will  cause  the  land  to  rise 
in  value  enormously ;  and  I  will  warrant  that  in  five  years  it 
will  be  worth  ten  times  the  present  cost." 

"  Suppose  such  to  be  the  case,"  I  observed,  "  and  from  my 
knowledge  of  the  wonderful  progress  of  this  country,  I  think  it 
very  probable,  where  are  the  gentlemen  to  shoot  ?" 

"  I'm  coming  to  that,  Sir,"  said  the  ex-keeper.  "  From  their 
location  on  Doty  Island,  they  would  have  the  finest  fresh-water 
fishing  in  the  world.  They  would  have  thirty  miles  lake-shore 
for  deer-shooting  ;  and  dense  woods,  forty  miles  back  to  Lake 
Michigan,  where  bears  and  catamounts,  and  other  wild  animals, 
are  plentiful.  Abundance  of  wild  fowl,  quail,  and  woodcocks 
would  be  found  every  where." 

"  Stop,"  exclaimed  I,  interrupting  him ;  "  what  are  we  to  do 
about  the  main  point — the  grouse-shooting  ?  besides,  remember 
there  is  another  £1000  to  account  for." 

"  Don't  interrupt,  please,  Sir  ;  I  am  coming  to  that.  I  know 
several  districts  of  country  in  this  neighborhood  with  natural 
boundaries ;  such  as  creeks,  rivers,  thick  belts  of  trees,  &c. 
These  districts  vary  from  five  thousand  to  twenty  thousand  acres, 
and  are  so  fertile,  the  Europeans  can  not  even  imagine  such  rich- 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  151 

ness.  Well,  Sir,  the  farmers,  who  are  thtnly  scattered  about,  are 
very  poor.  A  little  money  on  mortgage  of  their  land  would  enable 
them  to  get  more  than  double  its  value  ;  but  I  propose  that  you 
take  £500,  equal  to  2500  dollars,  and  lend  it  them  in  small 
sums,  say  100  dollars  each  on  mortgage,  at  the  rate  of  12  per 
cent,  per  annum." 

"Why,  you  are  a  regular  Jew,"  exclaimed  I.  "Twelve  per 
cent,  is  horrible  usury." 

"  Usury  or  not,"  returned  he,  "  many  of  these  poor  men  pay 
from  2  to  8  per  cent,  per  month.  With  a  hundred  dollars  at 
the  moderate  interest  of  12  per  cent,  per  annum,  they  could 
relieve  themselves  from  the  burden  of  excessive  interest,  and 
preserve  the  game  on  their  own  and  neighboring  lands.  You 
would,  by  thus  accommodating  the  farmers,  have  better  stocked 
preserves,  and  more  friendly  occupiers  of  the  soil,  than  can 
elsewhere  be  found.  The  remaining  £500  you  might  keep  to 
improve  your  lands ;  or  invest  at  12  per  cent,  as  the  other  half. 
If  thus  invested,  you  would  get  12  per  cent  on  £1000,  nearly 
equal  to  5  per  cent  upon  the  whole  sum  laid  out,  and  the  land 
increasing  in  value  in  a  prodigious  ratio." 

"  Wonderful !"  thought  I,  with  enthusiasm.  "  I  will  pop  you 
in  print,  my  lad.  You  ought  to  have  been  a  financier.  Let  us 
see  what  the  '  duality,'  as  you  call  them,  will  say  to  this." 

"Don't  forget,"  continued  he,  "to  report  that  a  single  indi 
vidual  can  do  as  well.  I  have  put  my  finger  in  a  similar  pie 
with  great  success." 

I  was  wonderfully  struck  with  the  man's  ability  at  figures,  and 
ventured  to  ask  him  for  an  outline  of  his  life. 

"  I  was  born,"  said  he,  "  and  bred  to  agriculture  in  Caithness : 

and  at  the  age  of  twenty-two,  became  grieve  or  bailiff  to  Mr. 

A  little  love  affair  drove  me  off  South,  where  I  first  met  you,  with 
the  duality  party  from  Dochfour.  I  was  then  an  extra  game 
keeper  at House,  in  the  expectation  that  Prince  Albert,  after 


152  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


his  visit  to  Dochfour,  of  Dochfour,  would  honor  my  master's  moor 
by  shooting  over  it.  As  this  expectation  was  not  gratified,  I  was 
discharged,  with  only  ten  pounds  in  my  pocket.  I  then  remem 
bered  the  conversation  I  had  with  you  the  half  hour  we  took 
shelter  from  the  rain  together  ;  and  particularly  one  observation  : 
•  Intelligence  like  yours,'  you  said, '  has  much  better  chances  West, 
over  the  Atlantic,  than  here.'  Thank  Heaven,  Sir,  I  took  your 
advice.  I  am  now  an  independent  man." 

"  Well,  my  friend,"  I  said,  "  you  are  not  the  only  acquaintance 
I  have  met  with  on  this  continent,  and  I  must  say  they  generally 
appear  to  succeed  ;  but  what  are  your  future  intentions  ?" 

"  My  great  object  in  life  is  to  get  my  friends  and  relations  out 
here ;  but  they  are  careful,  suspicious  people,  and  I  have  riot  the 
faculty  of  putting  things  down  in  writing.  Will  you,  Sir,  do  me 
one  more  favor,  and  add  to  your  publication  the  offer  I  have  had 
from  Governor  Doty  ?  It  will  explain  exactly  to  my  friends  what 
I  can  not  do,  and  be  of  great  interest  to  a  large  class  of  small 
capitalists  in  England,  who  would  jump  at  such  a  chance,  if  they 
were  only  aware  of  it." 

"  Show  me  the  offer  you  mention,"  said  I ;  "  and  if  I  can  do  it 
conscientiously  I  will,  and  give  it  publicity." 

On  perusing  the  manuscript  alluded  to,  I  came  to  the  conclu 
sion  that  it  might  be  of  inestimable  service  to  persons  desirous  of 
emigrating.  The  advantages  are  so  obvious  to  all,  that  I  merely 
give  the  offer  of  ex-Governor  Doty,  and  present  member  of  Congress. 

COPY  OF  MEMORANDUM,  BY  J.  D.  DOTY,  MENASHA. 

"  I  have  some  land,  the  soil  of  which  is  composed  of  a  rich 
black  loam.  It  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Nenah,  close 
to  the  outlet  of  Winnabago  Lake,  where  steamboats  pass  daily. 
Two  villages  are  within  a  mile  :  JN"enah  on  the  one  hand,  and 
Menasha  on  the  other.  A  good  market  is  at  hand  for  agricul 
tural  produce,  particularly  culinary  vegetables  ;  also  pigs  and 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  153 

poultry.  The  soil  is  a  rich  limestone,  capable  of  producing  any 
crops  in  great  perfection.  It  is  part  of  an  island  of  850  acres. 
Several  flour-mills  and  saw-mills,  beside  other  kinds  of  machinery 
moved  by  water,  are  in  the  vicinity. 

"  Schools,  and  well-established  religious  societies,  are  in  each 
of  the  villages.  The*  country  is  settling  rapidly,  and  respectable 
female  '  helps'  are  in  great  demand.  I  am  now  erecting  several 
houses,  with  parlor,  kitchen,  and  bed-room  below,  and  two  cham 
bers  above,  with  a  brick  chimney  and  oven  in  the  kitchen.  Each 
of  these  houses  will  be  surrounded  by  a  secure  fence  to  inclose 
five  acres  of  cleared  land. 

"  I  will  let  these  lots  to  tenants,  whose  characters  are  satisfac 
tory,  for  one  or  five  years  as  they  prefer,  taking  as  rent  one  half 
the  produce  of  the  land.  I  will  likewise  give  the  accepted  tenant 
a  range  for  a  cow  and  a  pig  on  the  adjoining  land,  and  as  much 
wood  as  he  can  use  for  fuel." 

For  six  weeks  I  amused  myself  exploring  in  all  directions ;  and 
the  more  I  roamed  through  this  beautiful  country,  the  more  I  was 
delighted  with  it.  Sometimes  I  climbed  the  range  of  limestone 
hills,  and  traversed  deserted  Indian  clearings  ;  at  others  I  rambled 
through  boundless  flowery  meadows  and  oak  openings. 

On  one  of  these  rambles  I  found  myself  in  a  vast  prairie,  several 
miles  in  extent.  I  was  thinking  of  the  difficulty  of  "  steering" 
over  this  interminable  plain,  in  a  dark  night  or  foggy  day.  My 
thoughts  were  prophetic,  as  a  thick  mist,  a  very  unusual  occur 
rence,  crept  instantly  over  the  scene,  shrouding  the  undulating 
landscape  in  an  impenetrable  and  hoary  mantle. 

"How  am  I  to  get  home?"  was  the  question  I  put  to  my 
companion. 

"  That  is  an  easy  matter,"  replied  he.  "There  is  plenty  of 
rosin-grass  here." 

Looking  intently  on  the  pasturage  at  his  feet,  he  led  me  stead 
ily  in  the  proper  direction.  As  I  thought  that  this  was  a  mere 


154  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

"  Yankee  trick,"  no  notice  was  directed  to  the  grass,  and  I  fol- 
loAved  him  in  silence.  When  too  late  to  examine  this  curious 
matter,  I  found  that  he  had  spoken  the  truth,  and  that  the  rosin- 
grass,  or  weed,  had  peculiar  leaves  which  always  grew  in  the 
same  direction,  namely,  north  and  south.  This  simple  fact  makes 
the  prairies  as  easy  to  travel  over  as  the  best  marked  plains. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Endless  Variety  of  Scenery — Beautiful  Vegetation  and  abundant  Wild 
fowl — A  huge  Muscalonge — Difficult  Capture  of  one  of  them — Profitable 
Investment  in  Land — Captain  Marryat's  Remarks — Extraordinary  En 
ergy  of  the  Western  Men — Magnanimous  Offer  by  one  of  them  to  put  an 
End  to  our  War  with  the  Kaffirs — The  British  Musket  and  the  Yankee 
Rifle — Sharp-shooting  from  the  Tops — A  new  Town — How  to  build  a 
Road — Plank  Roads  in  the  United  States. 

THE  endless  variety  of  scenery  in  this  district  is  quite  beyond 
description.  Sometimes  a  stately  avenue  of  burr-oaks  half  en 
circled  an  eminence  covered  with  small,  but  dense  copses.  Sud 
denly  the  avenue  would  cease  on  a  plateau,  the  very  site  for  a 
castle,  or  magnificent  mansion.  Let  us  wend  our  way  across 
this  plateau  ;  the  grouse  rising  right  and  left,  disturbing  the 
silence  with  the  loud  whirring  of  numerous  wings  :  we  will,  by- 
and-by,  examine  the  view,  now  momentarily  concealed  from  our 
sight  by  the  ground  in  advance.  At  length,  the  prospect  is 
unvailed  ;  Heavens  !  how  beautiful.  A  winding,  silvery  lake 
is  before  us,  studded  with  islands.  All  the  ornament  that 
money  or  art  could  furnish,  would  not  improve  the  beauty  one 
jot. 

On  approaching  the  margin  of  the  lake,  the  effect  was  abso 
lutely  enchanting.  Wild  flowers  and  climbers  in  some  places 
struggled  to  conceal  the  dense  foliage  on  the  banks.  In  others, 
the  ripple  of  water  on  the  smooth  beach  joined  with  a  gentle  kiss 
the  rich  and  unctuous  black  prairie  soil.  Strange  and  ornamental 


156  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


wild  fowl  here  dressed  their  plumage  in  security.  The  fierce 
and  fiend-eyed  fish,  the  Muscalonge,  glided  steadily  and  closely 
past.  Every  movement  of  his  huge  and  savage  shape  was 
strangely  distinct  in  the  crystal  water. 

A  few  days  after  this  adventure,  a  birch-bark  canoe  was 
launched,  and  the  surface  of  this  sylvan  retreat  was  disturbed, 
perhaps  for  the  first  time,  by  man.  By  the  kind  forethought  of 
rny  enthusiastic  angling  friend,  George  Trott,  Esq.,  of  Philadel 
phia,  who  had  furnished  me  with  the  new-improved  Anglo- 
Yankee  spoon-bait,  I  was  well  prepared  for  a  "  raid"  against 
the  Muscalonge.  With  a  stout  cod-line  two  hundred  feet  long, 
to  which  this  admirable  bait  was  attached,  we  paddled  into  the 
lake.  In  a  moment,  the  "  glittering  deceit"  was  caught  in  the 
jaws  of  a  monster,  who  would  have  made  old  Izaak  Walton 
open  his  eyes  in  rapture,  and  the  canoe  was  nearly  upset  with 
the  violent  jerk.  Careful  management  was  necessary  until  the 
first  furious  efforts  of  the  fish  were  over.  The  canoe  Avas  then 
paddled  to  the  bank,  and  the  line  taken  on  terra  firma.  Con 
siderable  care  was  still  needful  to  secure  our  prey ;  and  it  was 
nearly  half  an  hour  before  the  huge  Muscalonge  was  high  and 
dry.  No  means  were  at  hand  to  ascertain  his  weight,  but  he 
was  pronounced  by  competent  judges  to  be  nearly  one  hundred 
weight.  Several  more  were  taken,  and  the  sport  was  voted  to 
be  prodigious. 

One  of  the  party,  in  a  furor  of  excitement  and  admiration, 
started  off  next  morning,  to  purchase  the  lake  and  land  adjoin 
ing.  I  afterward  heard  that  he  had  bought  two  quarter  sections 
(three  hundred  and  twenty  acres)  for  six  hundred  and  forty 
dollars,  about  £130.  There  are  thousands  of  similar  situations. 
The  next  visit  I  pay  there  I  expect  to  see  a  small  town  ;  so 
rapid  is  the  growth  of  a  new  country  possessing  such  wonderful 
advantages. 

This  eulogy,  I  feel,  must  appear  exaggerated.     Fortunately, 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  167 

Captain  Marryat  went  over  nearly  the  same  ground,  and  speaks 
as  follows  :  * 

"  I  consider  the  Wisconsin  Territory  as  the  finest  portion  of 
North  America,  not  only  from  its  soil,  but  its  climate.  The  air 
is  pure,  and  the  winters,  although  severe,  are  dry  and  bracing  ; 
very  different  from,  and  more  healing  than  those  of  the  Eastern 
States.  The  country  is,  as  I  have  described  it  in  my  route  from 
Green  Bay,  alternate  prairie,  oak  opening,  and  forest ;  and  the 
same  may  be  said  of  the  major  part  of  the  Territory.  Limestone 
quarries  abound ;  indeed,  the  whole  of  this  beautiful  and  fertile 
region  appears  as  if  nature  had  so  arranged  it  that  man  should 
have  all  difficulties  cleared  from  before  him,  and  have  little  to 
do  but  to  take  possession,  and  enjoy.  There  is  no  clearing  of 
timber  requisite  ;  on  the  contrary,  you  have  just  as  much  as  you 
can  desire,  whether  for  use  or  ornament.  Prairies  of  fine  rich 
grass,  upon  which  cattle  fatten  in  three  or  four  months,  lie 
spread  in  every  direction.  The  soil  is  so  fertile  that  you  have 
but  to  turn  it  up  to  make  it  yield  grain  to  any  extent ;  and  the 
climate  is  healthy,  at  the  same  time  that  there  is  more  than 
sufficient  sun  in  the  summer  and  autumn  to  bring  every  crop  to 
perfection.  Add  to  all  this,  that  the  western  lands  possess  an 
inexhaustible  supply  of  minerals,  only  a  few  feet  under  the  sur 
face  of  their  rich  soil — a  singular  and  wonderful  provision,  as,  in 
general,  where  minerals  are  found  below,  the  soil  above  is  usually 
arid  and  ungrateful." 

The  extraordinary  energy  of  the  Western  men  is  the  true 
secret  of  success. 

These  'cute  Yankees  have  seen  strange  adventures ;  they  have 
not  thrown  away  the  advantages  thus  acquired,  and  are  full  of 
anecdote  and  information.  I  had  several  curious  conversations 
with  some  of  them,  as  the  following  anecdote  will  fully  prove. 

*  Marryat,  vol.  ii.  p.  72. 


158  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


I  may  here  observe  that  I  speedily  became  known  to  all  the 
neighbors  for  miles. 

I  was  once  strolling  on  the  beautiful  prairies,  and  perceived  in 
my  path,  a  little  in  advance,  a  tall,  gaunt  Yankee.  He  stood 
erect,  leaning  on  his  rifle,  watching  my  approach.  As  I  never 
met  any  thing  but  the  utmost  civility  and  attention  on  my  ram 
bles,  I  went  up  to  him  with  my  usual  confidence.  On  approach 
ing,  he  addressed  me  as  follows  : 

"  Well,  Captin.     How  are  you  ?" 

"  Very  well,"  replied  I,  "  how  does  the  world  wag  with  you  ?" 

"  I  have  a  duty  to  perform,  Captin,"  he  replied. 

"  Fire  away,  and  do  your  duty,"  rejoined  I,  wondering  what 
duty  my  stalwart  Yankee  friend  had  to  perform. 

"Well,  Captin,"  he  continued,  "you  are  not  at  all  starched 
up,  as  I  thought  all  Britishers  were.  You  wear  tow  breeches, 
arid  don't  think  more  of  yourself  than  any  of  us.  Moreover,  I 
see  you  carry  a  large  jar  the  other  day,  and  I  know  you  have 
lots  of  dollars.  Well,  then,  it  is  my  duty  to  ask  you  to  take  a 
drink." 

"With  all  my  heart,"  returned  I;  and  we  repaired  to  my 
friend's  log-house. 

After  a  social  glass  and  sundry  shaking  of  hands,  my  Yankee 
friend  told  me  his  history. 

"I  Jit  in  Mexico,"  said  he.  "I  likewise  Jit  the  Injuns  in 
Californy,  and  have  had  a  good  deal  of  experience  in  savage 
warfare.  My  name  is  Captin  Ezekiah  Conclin  Brum,  and  I 
think  you  are  the  best  Yankee  Britisher  I  ever  seed.  Now, 
then,  Captin,  I  have  a  proposal  to  make  to  the  British  Govern 
ment  ;  but  before  I  tell  it  you,  I'll  explain  what  made  me  Just 
think  of  it.  When  I  returned  from  fitting  the  Injuns  in  Cali 
forny,  I  read  in  the  papers  the  accounts  of  your  fitting  the  In 
juns  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Well,  I  wanted  to  find  out  all 
about  ilr,  so  I  sent  to  England,  by  a  relation  of  mine  who  is 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  159 

mate  of  a  liner,  for  a  British  infantry  musket,  with  all  the  Jixins. 
About  six  weeks  ago  it  arrived  here,  and  here  it  is,  Captin" 
(going  to  a  corner  and  bringing  out  a  regulation  musket).  "  Well, 
Captin,  did  ever  you  see  such  a  clumsy  varment  in  all  your 
born  days  ?  Now,  Captin,  look  out  of  the  doorway.  Do  you  see 
that  blazed  stump  ?  It  is  seven  feet  high,  and  broader  than 
any  man.  It's  exactly  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  from  my 
door.  I  have  fired  that  clumsy  varment  at  the  stump  till  my 
head  ached,  and  my  shoulder  was  quite  sore,  and  have  hardly 
hit  it  once.  Now,  then,  Captin,  look'ee  here"  (taking  up  his 
seven-barreled,  revolving  rifle,  and  letting  fly  one  barrel  after 
the  other).  "  I  guess  you  will  find  seven  bullets  in  the  blazed 
stump.  I  will,  however,  stick  seven  playing  cards  on  the  stump, 
in  different  places,  and  if  you  choose  will  hit  them  all." 
"  You  are  very  skillful,"  I  exclaimed. 

"  There  are  plenty  more  quite  as  skillful  as  me,"  he  respond 
ed  ;  "  but,  Captin,  let  me  ask  you,  would  you  fit  me  with  that 
machine,  bagnet  and  all,  against  my  rifle  at  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  ?" 

•''  No,  thank  you,"  I  hastily  answered,  "  I  had  rather  not." 
"  Would  you  like  to  be  one  of  two,  or  three,  or  even  six,  with 
bagnet  fixed  and  all  ?"  urged  he. 

"  No,"  I  replied,  "  certainly  not.  You  would  have  the  best 
chance  by  far." 

"  Now  then  comes  my  offer  to  the  British  Government.  Will 
you  make  it  to  them  from  me  ?" 

"  No,"  replied  I.  "  If  I  made  the  finest  offer  in  the  world  to 
the  British  Government,  the  chances  are,  they  would  not  read 
it.  If  they  did,  they  would  only  sneer  at  me,  and  call  me  offi 
cious  and  impertinent,  and  very  likely  put  a  black  mark  against 
my  name.  I  can  not,  therefore,  present  your  offer ;  but  I  will 
put  it  in  print,  if  you  like,  and  the  public  can  judge  of  its 
merits." 


160  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


"  That's  the  very  thing,  Captin,"  returned  he  in  an  animated 
voice  ;  "  and  that  will  stir  up  public  opinion — at  least  it  would 
in  the  States,  where,  when  once  a  thing  is  made  plain,  it  is 
adopted,  never  mind  who  the  recommender  might  be. 

"  My  offer  to  the  British  Government  is  as  follows  :  I,  Eze- 
kiah  Conclin  Brum,  have  learned  by  the  papers,  that  the  last 
war  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  cost  ten  million  dollars  (two 
millions  sterling)  to  the  British  Government ;  and  that  it  is 
likely  the  present  war  will  cost  quite  as  much,  and  be  a  pro 
tracted  affair.  I,  Ezekiah  Conclin  Brum,  have  a  high  opinion 
of  the  bravery  of  the  British  soldiers,  but  a  very  contemptuous 
opinion  of  their  arms.  I,  Ezekiah  Conclin  Brum,  will  under 
take  to  enlist  five  thousand  Yankee  marksmen,  each  armed  with 
a  seven-barreled  revolving  rifle,  or  any  better  weapon  that  may 
turu  up,  and  kill,  'or  disperse  all  the  Injuns  on  the  British  terri 
tory  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  within  six  months  of  our  land 
ing  there  ;  conditionally,  that  the  survivors  are  paid  the  sum 
of  five  million  dollars,  on  the  extirpation  of  the  Injuns,  and  set 
tlement  of  peace  ;  thus  saving  half  the  expense,  and  great  num 
bers  of  British  soldiers.  In  course,  the  British  Government  must 
send  us  over  in  their  brass-bottomed  sarpents.  This  will  be  easy, 
as  we  can  stow  very  close,  having  little  or  no  baggage." 

"  You  think  your  five  thousand  '  marksmen'  could  do  it  in 
six  months,"  said  I. 

"Sartain,"  he  replied  ;  "we  should  be  ekal  to  thirty  thousand 
troops  with  such  tarnal,  stiff,  clumsy  consarns,  as  them  reg'lation 
muskets  is.  We  should  do  it  slick,  right  away." 

"  Suppose  you  were  successful,"  I  rejoined,  "  what  would  you 
and  your  Yankee  marksmen  do  afterward  ?" 

"  Do  afterward,"  echoed  he:  "  why,  many  would  settle  in  the 
country,  and  show  them  how  to  go  ahead." 

"And,"  added  I,  "turn  it  into  a  republic  before  long." 

"  In  course,"  that  is  sure  to  follow  afore  long,  whether  we  go 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  161 

or  stay.  But  I  tell'ee  what  it  is,  Captin ;  this  here  gold  in 
Australy  will  bring  on  a  republic  there  while  you  Britishers  are 
dreaming  about  it." 

"  Good-by,  Captain  Ezekiah  Conclin  Brum,"  I  exclaimed,  as 
I  shook  hands  heartily  at  parting.  "  I  will  print  your  proposal. 
It  will  have  the  advantage  of  novelty,  at  any  rate." 

"  Good-by,  Captin.  Wont  you  take  a  chaw  ?  But  mind  you 
write,  and  tell  me  all  about  it." 

And  thus  we  parted 

This  proposal  of  our  Yankee  friend  gives  rise  to  grave  reflec 
tions,  not  only  as  to  land  fighting,  but  naval  engagements. 

In  England  we  rely  too  much  on  precedent,  and  antiquated 
maxims.  As  an  example  of  this  reverence  for  whatever  is  estab 
lished,  we  will  take  an  axiom  of  one  of  the  most  celebrated  men 
of  any  age — an  axiom  which  invention  and  science  have  super 
seded.  We  allude  to  the  opinion  of  the  great  Nelson,  that  small 
arms  in  tops,  though  fatal  to  a  few  men,  never  decided  an 
action.  To  this  mistaken,  though  humane  notion,  he  owed  his 
death  ;  for  after  he  had  twice  ordered  the  fire  on  the  "  Redoubt 
able"  to  cease,  because  she  seemed  to  have  struck,  a  ball  fired 
from  the  mizen-top  killed  him. 

Now  let  us  ask,  What  would  have  been  the  state  of  the 
"Victory's"  upper  deck,  five  minutes  after  she  was  alongside 
the  "  Redoubtable,"  if  the  tops  of  the  latter  had  been  manned  by 
good  marksmen,  armed  with  such  seven-barreled  revolvers  as 
excited  the  enthusiasm  of  our  friend  Ezekiah  ?  The  result  would 
have  been,  that  every  man  on  the  "  Victory's"  upper  deck  would 
have  been  killed  in  a  few  minutes.  This  fatal  result  may  be 
confidently  anticipated  in  any  future  war  with  America  or  France. 
[n  America  especially  they  are  preparing  rifles  that  will  discharge 
twenty-four  times  without  loading  ;  the  only  preparation  required, 
being  the  usual  one  of  cocking. 

The  following  calculation  we  will  base  on  the  seven-barreled 


162  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


revolver,  leaving  the  reader  to  calculate  the  effects  of  the  new 
Yankee  rifle,  which  discharges  twenty-four  shot  without  load 
ing. 

Let  us  then  suppose  the  "  Victory  "  closing  with  the  "  Redoubt 
able,"  whose  tops  should  be  armed  as  follows  :  "  Victory,"  as  is 
the  custom  at  present,  nil;  or  at  best  short  ships'  muskets. 
"  Redoubtable,"  ten  men  in  each  top,  armed  with  the  seven-bar 
reled  revolver. 

These  ten  men  can  fairly  be  estimated  to  disable  in  one  minute 
and  a  half  seven  men  on  the  opponent's  deck.  Thus,  seventy 
men  will  probably  be  hors  de  combat  from  the  fire  of  each  top  ; 
or  the  frightful  loss,  in  this  brief  space,  of  two  hundred  and  ten 
men  from  the  three  tops  combined. 

This  would  amount  to  the  destruction  of  the.  ivlwle  crew 
stationed  on  the  upper  deck. 

If  any  fighting  ever  does  occur  between  English  and  Ameri 
can,  or  French  ships,  these  new  and  wonderful  rifles  will  be  dis 
astrously  tested. 

We  pity  the  unprepared,  as  the  chances  are  that  they  must  be 
vanquished. 

There  can  be  no  doubt,  that  although  we  are  equal  to  the 
best  in  artillery  and  gunnery,  we  are  far  behind  most  nations  in 
small  arms. 

During  my  various  ramblings  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  secure 
the  confidence  of  several  most  able  and  energetic  men — an  ad 
vantage  which  enabled  me  to  peep  behind  the  scenes  in  many 
of  the  Western  movements.  The  following  incident  came  under 
my  own  knowledge. 

Not  one  hundred  miles  from  Green  Bay,  in  an  admirable  situ 
ation,  a  small  village  suddenly  peered  out  from  the  woods.  The 
site  was  chosen  by  one  of  those  extraordinary  men  (educated 
pioneers),  who  had  silently  selected  a  position,  and  established 
himself  as  proprietor,  before  any  persons,  even  his  most  inti- 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  163 


mate  friends,  were  aware  of  his  object.  As  soon  as  this  became 
known,  the  working  pioneers  of  the  West,  well  aware  of  the 
talent,  perseverance,  and  sagacity  of  their  leader,  began  to 
drop  in  likewise.  In  a  few  months,  a  town  was  laid  out,  and 
people  began  to  flock  in.  When  the  place  was  a  year  old  it  was 
perceived  that  a  road  was  absolutely  necessary  ;  and  immediate 
steps  were  taken  to  obtain  a  charter  from  the  Government. 
This  being  soon  effected,  a  public  meeting  was  called  of  all  per 
sons  who  might  be  interested  in  the  said  road,  to  which  I  will 
give  the  fictitious  name  of  the  Nesacoochera  and  Chittenango 
Plank  Road  Company,  with  branches  from  Gubbinsville  to  Hog- 
skirisville,  by  Smithsville  and  ThomsonviHe.  The  main  branch 
was  ten  miles  long. 

About  one  hundred  persons  attended,  and  the  terms  of  the 
charter  were  read  to  them.  It  specified  that  at  least  five  hun 
dred  shares  should  be  subscribed  for,  and  one  dollar  each  paid  up, 
before  the  charter  became  a  valid  instrument.  The  whole  capital 
required  was  £10,000. 

This  appeared  to  be  a  complete  "  stopper  over  all,"  as  proba 
bly  that  sum,  in  cash,  could  not  be  mustered  within  a  hundred 
miles. 

After  a  considerable  pause,  one  citizen  got  up,  and  spoke  as 
follows : 

"  I  guess  money  arn't  to  be  stumpt  up  here.  I'll  write  to 
mother,  who  owns  a  fine  location  in  the  Genesee  valley,  and 
get  the  five  hundred  dollars.  My  note  will  do  for  the  cash." 

This  knotty  point  being  decided,  the  chairman  next  asked  the 
meeting  who  would  take  stock,  and  supply  the  sinews  of  war. 
A  dead  silence  ensued.  There  was  not  ten  dollars  (cash)  in  the 
township.  At  length,  up  got  a  citizen  from  Gubbinsville,  and 
expatiated  on  the  absolute  necessity  of  an  immediate  formation 
of  the  road. 

"  I  have  not,"  said  he,  "  any  cash  at  my  command  ;  but  I  have 


164  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


credit  with  a  provision  merchant  down  East.  I  will  supply  the 
workmen  with  pork,  molasses,  tea,  and  sugar,  out  of  my  friend's 
store." 

This  speech  was  received  with  immense  applause  ;  and  it  was 
followed  by  others,  who  pledged  their  credit  for  shoes,  soap,  cloth 
ing,  &c. 

The  greatest  number  of  the  assembly,  who  were  hard-working 
landowners,  undertook  to  go  to  work  immediately ;  taking  for 
part  payment  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  receiving  road-stock  for 
the  balance.  These  energetic  fello\vs  immediately  began  to  labor 
at  this  great  work,  which  would  eventually  cost  fifty  thousand 
dollars,  without  a  cent  of  capital.  The  most  extraordinary  thing 
was,  the  unfailing  confidence  felt  by  every  one  that  something 
would  turn  up  to  procure  the  wherewithal ;  more  extraordinary 
still  was  the  complete  success  of  the  project.  The  road  has  not 
only  quadrupled  the  value  of  property  all  around  but  it  bids  fail- 
to  pay  a  dividend,  in  five  years,  of  fifty  per  cent. 

If  a  steamboat  is  wanted,  it  is  acquired  in  the  same  way.  I 
have  known  large  vessels  completely  built  and  equipped,  without 
the  owners  possessing  one  farthing,  and  which  have  not  only 
paid  for  themselves,  but  have  made  handsome  fortunes  for  the 
lucky  and  enterprising  projectors. 

What  country  can  attempt  to  cope  with  such  energy  and  enter 
prise  as  this  ?  It  is  frequently  a  subject  of  remark,  that  men  born 
in  England,  and  educated  in  the  States,  are  among  the  foremost 
in  these  enterprising  projects. 

The  reader,  who  is  unacquainted  with  plank  roads,  and  their 
wonderful  utility  in  the  Far  West,  may  well  be  astonished  at  the 
high  rate  of  interest  mentioned  above.  It  must,  however,  be  re 
membered  that  the  tolls  in  America  are  very  high  (charged  both 
ways) — from  one  to  two  cents  a  mile  for  a  single  team  ;  and  that 
the  wood  (the  main  point)  costs  ten  times  less  than  in  England. 

The  plank  roads,  throughout  the  States,  vary  in  price  from 


SPORTING  EXCURSION.  165 

£300  to  X800  a  mile,  and  do  not  require  any  repair  for  three 
years.  The  sooner,  therefore,  that  these  roads  are  worn  out  by 
traffic,  the  greater  profit  will  be  realized  by  the  proprietor.  We 
consider  them  one  of  the  safest  and  most  profitable  investments 
in  the  United  States. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

TRAWLING. 

Fish  Markets  in  America — Their  Inferiority  to  those  in  Europe — Cause  of 
this — Abundance  in  America  of  the  best  Kinds  of  Fish  riot  available  for 
want  of  proper  Means  to  secure  them — The  Trawl-net — Yankee  Ridicule 
of  this  Expedient — Experiment — Its  Effects — Prejudice — Queer  Expres 
sion  of  the  Newport  (United  States)  Fishermen — Great  Expediency  of 
the  Trawl-net  in  America. 

THE  fish-markets  in  America  are  not  at  all  in  keeping  with 
the  size  and  wealth  of  the  cities.  This  probably  arises  from  the 
scanty  variety  of  fish  caught,  compared  to  any  large  city  markets 
in  Europe.  And  yet  a  greater  quantity  and  more  variety  offish 
may  be  found  on  the  shores  of  the  United  States  than  in  any  other 
country  I  have  ever  visited.  The  reason  America  is  not  as  plen 
tifully  supplied  as  any  other  part  of  the  world,  is  simply  because 
the  people  do  not  use  the  means.  In  the  first  place,  the  trawl- 
net  is  unknown  in  the  New  World.  This  is  glaringly  visible  to 
a  European  on  first  visiting  their  markets,  where  may  be  seen 
every  variety  of  what  in  England  and  France  are  termed  coarse 
fish — in  contradistinction  to  the  finer  kinds  of  white  fish  caught 
in  the  trawl.  For  example,  the  "  bass,"  though  considered  an 
inferior  fish  in  England,  is  highly  esteemed  in  the  States.  Many 
others,  which  are  disdained  in  Europe,  are  very  differently  esti 
mated  across  the  Atlantic.  This  "  standard  of  taste"  may  origin 
ate  in  the  want  of  knowledge  of  the  better  kinds,  generally,  if  not 
invariably,  caught  by  the  "  trawl." 


•m 

TRAWLING.  167 


One  of  my  visits  after  arriving  in  New  York,  was  to  the  Fulton. 
Washington,  and  other  fish-markets.  I  must  confess  I  was  sadly 
disappointed  at  the  markets  and  the  supply.  On  carefully  ex 
amining  the  small  fry,  caught  by  seines  on  the  beach,  I  was 
astonished  to  perceive  the  young  of  all  the  esteemed  fish  of  Europe, 
such  as  turbot,  sole,  brill,  plaice,  &c.  On  mentioning  the  circum 
stance  to  the  market-men,  they  doubted  the  correctness  of  my 
assertion ;  but,  after  pointing  out  the  characteristics  in  shape, 
color,  fins,  mouth,  &c.,  they  speedily  acknowledged  that  I  was 
right. 

I  do  not  mean  to  assert  that  these  fish  were  precisely  similar 
to  their  namesakes  in  Europe.  Not  so  ;  some  slight  modifications 
in  color  and  shape  were  perceptible  ;  but  to  all  intents  and  pur 
poses  they  were  of  the  same  genus.  The  only  strange  flat-fish, 
which  seemed  to  puzzle  the  market-men,  was  termed  a  fluke. 
Upon  a  careful  examination,  I  found  this  to  be  a  species  of  com 
mon  English  sole.  After  repeated  observation,  and  careful  inquiry, 
I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  shores  of  the  United  States  were 
swarming  with  fine  and  delicate  flat  fish  ;  but,  as  by  some  extra 
ordinary  oversight  for  such  keen  and  clever  people,  they  did  not 
use  the  trawl,  they  could  not  catch  them. 

My  assertion  that  the  finest  flat-fish  in  the  world,  including 
turbot,  were  within  the  grasp  of  Yankeedom,  was  variously  met. 
Some  became  immediate  converts  to  my  opinion  ;  and  one — a 
Avealthy  American  gentleman — accepted  my  offer  to  procure  a 
proper  trawl  from  England,  to  try  the  experiment  thoroughly 
Others  ridiculed  the  "  Britisher"  who  should  come  over  from 
Europe  to  teach  the  Yankees  to  catch  fish  ;  and  made  affecting 
allusions  touching  the  supererogation  of  instructing  one's  grand 
mother  in  the  art  of  making  extracts  from  eggs ;  to  say  nothing  of 
other  language,  more  expressive  than  elegant 

At  this  attack,  my  indignation  overcame  my  coolness,  and  I 
retorted  that  the  Yankees  had  not  improved  in  fishing  since  the 


168  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 

time  of  the  Indians,  but  used  precisely  the  same  means,  without 
any  change. 

The  "  turbot  controversy"  was  thus  prolonged  until  the  trawl 
should  come  from  England. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  trawl,  I  was  disappointed  at  not  being 
able  to  make  an  experiment  with  it.  Fortunately,  I  met  an 
American  gentleman  (Elnathan  Smith,  Esq.,)  who,  holding  opin 
ions  similar  to  mine,  had,  ten  years  previously,  imported  nets  of 
this  description ;  but,  not  finding  any  fishermen  who  knew  how 
to  use  them,  the  nets  had  remained  among  other  stores  until  they 
had  become  almost  useless.  One  of  them,  less  decayed  than  the 
rest,  was  selected  for  a  first  trial,  although  little  better  than  a 
plaything,  being  only  twelve  feet  in  breadth.  This  net  was  taken 
to  Newport,  Rhode  Island,  with  a  view  of  testing  its  efficiency 
Several  difficulties,  however,  supervened.  First,  I  was  ignorant 
of  the  ground  and  bottom  ;  secondly,  I  could  not  use  such  a  small 
and  decayed  net  in  deep  water ;  thirdly,  I  had  nothing  but  an 
open  boat ;  and  lastly,  the  Newport  fishermen  beheld  the  novel 
machine  with  derision. 

"  That  thing  catch  a  fish  !"  exclaimed  one. 
"  I  guess  I'll  put  'em  all  in  my  eye  !"  observed  another. 
The  miserable  "  turn-out"  almost  warranted  their  contempt. 
Fortunately,  I  had  secured  the  co-operation  of  some  intelligent 
inhabitants,  who  accompanied  me. 

Although  limited  to  shallow  water,  and  within  a  mile  from  the 
shore,  the  success  was  conclusive.  Seventeen  varieties  of  fish 
were  caught,  nearly  all  quite  young  ;  but  of  these,  seven  were  flat 
fish,  including  a  small  species  of  American  turbot.  The  trial  was 
prolonged  for  three  days,  during  which  several  hundred-weight 
were  caught. 

But  the  shortness  of  the  hauls  in  shallow  water,  the  foulness 
of  the  ground,  both  from  rocks  and  sea- weed,  rendered  the  experi 
ment  a  very  poor  criterion  of  the  success  that  may  be  looked  foi 


TRAWLING.  169 


with  a  competent  apparatus  in  deep  water.  The  fish  are  so 
plentiful,  that,  when  the  proper  grounds  are  discovered  and  ex 
plored  by  experienced  trawlers,  turbot,  sole,  and  all  the  European 
varieties  of  fish  will  be  more  plentiful  in  the  States  than  they  now 
are  in  England  and  France. 

After  the  success  of  the  trawl  had  been  fully  demonstrated  to 
the  Newport  fishermen,  they  took  refuge  in  an  expression  far 
beyond  what  might  be  expected  from  the  most  bigoted  and  preju 
diced  John  Bull.  "  Oh  !"  ejaculated  they,  "  oh,  after  all,  it  is  a 
very  mean  way  of  catching  fish  !" 

A  good  Brixharn  trawler  would  make  a  fortune  in  America, 
and  increase  the  variety  and  amount  of  food  for  human  beings. 
A  great  proportion  of  the  best  kinds  of  fish  consumed  in  England 
is  derived  from  the  trawl-net ;  and  it  is  extraordinary  that  Ameri 
cans  should  neglect  this  mine  of  wealth,  lying  in  abundance  on 
their  coasts.  I  venture  to  call  to  this  subject  the  attention  of  the 
chief  magistrates  of  New  York,  Boston,  and  other  American  sea 
board  cities ;  and  1  do  not  see  why  the  American  markets  should 
not  be  supplied  with  as  great  a  variety  of  fish  as  those  of  England, 
which  is  not  the  case  at  present,  merely  for  want  of  the  trawl-net 
I  should  be  very  happy  to  give  my  advice  arid  assistance  in  thi* 
matter,  and  to  oiler  rny  personal  superintendence  to  add  a  nev- 
and  important  branch  of  commerce  to  the  United  States.  As  a 
certain  amount  of  experience  is  requisite  both  to  manage  the  net 
and  discover  the  grounds  which  different  kinds  of  fish  frequent,  I 
strongly  advise  that  a  few  experienced  trawlers,  with  their  nets, 
be  imported  from  Brixlmm  or  other  English  ports,  where  this 
species  of  fishing  is  carried  to  great  perfection.  It  is  not  possible 
to  anticipate  the  eiiect  such  a  measure  would  produce  on  the 
fish-trade  of  America  ;  but  it  can  hardly  fail  to  be  very  beneficial. 
If  we  estimate  the  value  and  amount  of  fish  taken  only  by  the 
trawl,  as  evidenced  at  Billingsgate  in  London,  we  may  well  be 
astounded  at  the  sum  total,  where  three  kinds  alone,  namely, 

H 


170  TOUR,  IN  AME1UCA. 


turbot,  soles,  and  plaice,  are  valued  at  several  million  dollars 
per  annum.  What  an  extraordinary  gain  would  this  be  to  a 
country  whence  this  vast  source  of  wealth  may  be  secured  with 
out  any  drain  on  the  land,  and  with  110  other  expense  than  the 
labor  of  securing  the  fish.  In  this  point,  Americans  are  certainly 
behind  Englishmen  ;  and  it  does  seem  rather  supine  on  thei; 
part  to  allow  such  opportunities  to  continue  unavailable. 


CHAPTER  V. 

KIDD,    THE    PIRATE. 

New  View  of  this  so-called  Buccaneer — William  III.  in  Partnership  with 
Kidd — Phipps,  the  supposed  Founder  of  the  House  of  Normanby — His 
Discovery  of  sunken  Treasures — Kidd's  Expedition  against  Pirates — 
His  Commission  from  William  III.  to  make  Reprisals  against  the 
French — His  Success  as  a  Sea-rover — The  English  Government  urged 
by  the  East  India  Company  to  stop  Kidd's  Depredations — Order  for 
his  Arrest — Gold,  Silver,  and  Precious  Stones  buried  by  him  in  Gar 
diner's  Island — His  Apprehension  at  Boston.  Massachusetts — He  is 
sent  to  England — His  Trial,  Sentence,  and  Execution — Anecdote — 
Account  of  the  Treasure  found  on  the  Island — Attempts  now  in  Pro 
gress  to  recover  a  large  Amount  of  Gold  and  Silver  supposed  to  be  sunk 
near  the  Shore  in  a  Vessel  formerly  belonging  to  Kidd. 

AMONG  the  many  admirable  institutions  with  which  New 
York  abounds,  the  Historical  Society  holds  a  distinguished  place. 
Through  the  kindness  of  my  American  friends,  I  frequently  at 
tended  the  lectures  delivered  at  this  establishment.  On  one 
occasion  Kidd,  the  famous  pirate,  was  the  subject  under  discus 
sion.  The  Hon.  "William  Campbell,  Judge.of  the  Superior  Court 
of  New  York,  had  spent  much  labor  and  research  in  ascertaining 
the  facts  of  Kidd's  career ;  and,  having  consulted  many  old  and 
rare  documents,  he  formed  the  following  history  of  the  so  called 
buccaneer.  By  Mr.  Campbell's  account  it  appears  that  Kidd 
was  no  pirate  at  all ;  or,  if  he  was  one,  King  William  III.  was 
his  partner,  together  Math  many  of  the  chief  officers  of  his  gov 
ernment. 

It  is  difficult  to  understand,  at  the  present  day,  why  the  Dutch 


172  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


monarch  of  England  should  ever  dream  of  going  shares  with  such 
a  man  as  Kidd.  But  the  wonderful  stories,  current  at  that  time, 
of  the  buccaneers — their  excessive  plunder,  and  secret  stores  of 
wealth — had  violently  excited  the  public  mind,  and  this  excite 
ment  extended  even  to  His  Majesty. 

Among  many  other  popular  stories  of  this  nature,  was  that  of 
the  celebrated  Phipps.  As  this  bears  upon  the  case  in  point, 
and  is  interesting  and  authentic,  we  will  venture  to  insert  it  as  a 
kind  of  apology  for  the  rather  loose  morality  of  King  William  III. 
Phipps  was  born  on  a  despicable  plantation  on  the  banks  of  the 
Kennebec.  That  is  to  say,  the  founder  of  the  House  of  Nor- 
manby  was  a  Yankee.  Ill  educated  as  he  was,  he  contrived  to 
attain  great  wealth  and  consideration.  The  foundation  of  his  for 
tune,  and  successful  career,  hinges  on  the  following  story.  This, 
we  will  hope,  was  the  leading  cause  of  King  William's  rumored 
partnership  with  Kidd. 

"  Phipps,"  says  a  recent  chronicler  (Mr.  Craik),  "had  obtained 
information  that  somewhere  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Bahamas, 
lay  a  Spanish  wreck,  wherein  was  lost  a  mighty  treasure  hith 
erto  undiscovered  ;  and,  having  a  strong  impression  that  he  was 
destined  to  be  the  discoverer,  he  hoped  to  be  able  to  persuade 
some  persons  of  wealth  in  England  to  advance  the  necessary 
funds,  and,  all  unknown  as  he  had  hitherto  been,  to  get  himself 
appointed  to  conduct  the  search  under  a  commission  from  the 
Government. 

"  At  length,  in  the  year  1683,  he  was  successful  in  the  repre 
sentations  he  had  made  at  Whitehall,  and  found  himself  captain 
of  a  King's  ship,  the  '  Algier  Rose,'  a  frigate  of  eighteen  guns 
and  ninety-five  men.  He  sought  for  the  sunken  treasure  long 
in  vain.  Once  his  men,  losing  all  hope,  rose  in  mutiny,  and, 
assembling  on  the  quarter-deck,  with  their  swords  drawn,  de 
manded  that  he  should  join  with  them  in  running  off  with  the 
ship,  arid  take  to  the  trade  of  piracy  on  the  South  Seas.  Phipps, 


KIDD,  THE  PIRATE.  173 


rushed  in  among  them ;  and,  with  nothing  but  his  bare  hand, 
felled  many  of  them,  and  quelled  the  mutiny.  His  men,  never 
theless,  continued  so  mutinous  that  he  was  obliged  to  bear  up  for 
Jamaica,  and  ship  another  crew.  With  the  fresh  and  honester 
hands,  he  proceeded  to  Hispaniola,  and  there,  by  his  policy  and 
address,  he  contrived  to  worm  out,  from  a  very  old  Spaniard, 
more  authentic  information  as  to  where  the  lost  treasure-ship 
lay.  Not  succeeding,  he  returned  to  England,  where,  we  are 
told,  so  proper  was  his  behavior  that  the  best  noblemen  in  the 
kingdom,  admitted  him  into  their  conversation. 

"  At  length,  he  prevailed  upon  the  Duke  of  Albemarle,  to  run 
the  pecuniary  risk  necessary  for  the  adventure,  and  again  set 
sail  for  the  fishing  ground  that  had  been  so  well  baited  half  a 
hundred  years  before.  Among  other  novel  instruments  invent 
ed  by  Phipps,  for  the  successful  prosecution  of  the  search,  was 
the  diving-bell.  Anderson,  in  his  '  Origin  of  Commerce,'  makes 
mention,  under  the  year  1680,  of  a  diving  machine,  or  engine, 
used  by  Phipps.  He  quotes  no  authority.  It  must  have  been 
in  1684  or  1685  that  Phipps  set  out  on  this  expedition. 

"  For  a  long  time  he  was  unsuccessful,  and  could  make 
nothing  of  their  '  peeping  among  the  boilers,'  as  the  shoals  were 
called.  But  at  last  one  of  his  men,  looking  down  into  the  calm 
water,  from  the  periagua,  or  canoe,  perceived  a  plant  or  weed 
growing,  called  a  '  sea-feather.'  That  they  might  not  return  to 
the  ship  empty-handed,  one  of  the  Indians  was  ordered  to  dive 
and  fetch  it.  The  diver,  bringing  up  the  feather,  brought  there 
with  a  surprising  story — that  he  perceived  a  number  of  great 
guns  lying  round.  This  report  at  once  turned  their  desponden 
cies  into  brilliant  anticipations,  and  they  were  immediately  con 
firmed  in  these  assurances  by  the  diver  ascending  with  a  sow,  or 
lump  of  silver,  worth  three  hundred  pounds. 

"When  Phipps  heard  this,  he  exclaimed:  'Thanks  be  to 
God,  we  are  made  !' 


174  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


"  Away  now  went  all  hands  to  work.  In  a  short  time,  with 
out  the  loss  of  a  man,  they  brought  up  thirty-two  tons  of  silver, 
besides  six  tons  appropriated  by  Captain  Adderly  of  Providence. 

"  Upon  much  of  the  coined  silver,  there  was  grown  a  crust 
like  limestone  ;  this,  when  broken  with  instruments,  revealed 
whole  bushels  of  discolored  pieces  of  eight,  which  came  tumbling 
out.  There  were  also  great  quantities  of  gold,  pearls,  and  other 
precious  stones.  In  fine,  the  treasure  recovered  by  Phipps 
amounted  in  value  to  nearly  £300,000,  although  the  adven 
turers  were  obliged  to  leave  without  a  clear  sweep,  as  their  pro 
visions  ran  'short.  In  consequence  of  this  sudden  departure, 
considerable  gleanings  were  discovered  and  gathered  by  other 
explorers. 

"  Now  came  the  difficulty.  His  men  seeing  such  vast  litters 
of  silver  sows  and  pigs  come  aboard,  were  naturally  little  dis 
posed  to  be  satisfied  with  ordinary  seamen's  wages,  and  were 
tempted  to  seize  the  whole  for  themselves.  After  various  dan 
gers,  arising  mainly  from  this  feeling  of  cupidity,  which  Phipps 
surmounted  with  great  address,  he  got  safe  to  England  with  the 
treasure.  The  Duke  of  Albemarle  was  so  well  satisfied,  that  he 
presented  him  with  a  gold  cup  for  his  wife,  valued  at  £1000. 
The  King  (James  II.)  likewise  was  so  delighted  at  his  success, 
that  he  knighted  him,  and  made  him  Governor  of  Massachu 
setts."* 

The  above  story  will,  we  trust,  fully  account  for  King  Will 
iam's  partiality  for  supporting  naval  enterprise  and  adventure. 

William  Kidd  was  an  Englishman  by  birth,  and  had  been 
commander  of  a  merchant-vessel  that  sailed  between  London 
and  New  'York.  He  was  so  celebrated  for  nautical  skill  and 
enterprise,  that  he  was  recommended  by  Colonel  Itichard  Liv 
ingstone,  of  New  York,  then  in  London,  as  a  proper  person  to 
command  a  vessel  which  Lord  Romney  and  others  had  pur- 
*  "Romance  of  the  Peerage." 


KIDD,  THE  PIRATE.  175 

chased  and  were  fitting  out  against  the  hordes  of  robbers  and 
pirates,  which  preyed  upon  the  commerce  of  all  nations  in  the 
Indian  seas. 

The  expense  of  the  expedition  was  £6000,  provided  by  a 
joint  fund,  to  which  the  King,  Lord  Somers,  Earl  of  rlomney, 
Duke  of  Shrewsbury,  Earl  of  Oxford,  Lord  Belmont,  and  Colonel 
Livingstone  were  subscribers. 

Kidd  agreed  to  be  concerned  to  the  amount  of  one-fifth  of  the 
whole,  and  Colonel  Livingstone  became  his  surety  for  a  certain 
sum. 

Hume  says  the  King  promised  to  contribute  one-half  the  ex 
pense,  and  reserved  to  himself  one-tenth  of  the  profits.  How 
ever,  he  never  advanced  the  money. 

To  give  character  to  this  expedition,  two  commissions  were 
issued  :  one  against  the  pirates  in  the  Indian  seas,  not  interest 
ing  enough  to  insert,  and  the  other  as  follows  : 

"William  the  Third,  by  the  grace  of  God,  of  England,  Scot 
land,  France,  and  Ireland,  King,  Defender  of  the  Faith,  &c. 

"  Whereas,  we  have  taken  into  our  consideration  the  injuries, 
spoils,  and  acts  of  hostility  committed  by  the  French  King  and 
his  subjects,  unto  and  upon  ships,  goods,  and  persons  of  our 
subjects,  extending  to  their  grievous  damages,  and  amounting  to 
great  sums,  &c.  We  did,  therefore,  with  the  advice  of  our  privy 
council,  think  fit,  and  ordered,  that  general  reprisals  be  granted 
against  the  ships,  goods,  and  subjects  of  the  French  King,  &c. 
And  whereas.  William  Kidd  is  thought  fitly  qualified,  and  hath 
equipped,  furnished,  and  victualed  a  ship,  called  the  'Adven 
ture,'  galley,  of  the  burden  of  two  hundred  eighty-seven  tons, 
&c.  Know  ye,  therefore,  that  we,  by  these  presents,  grant  com 
mission  to,  and  do  authorize  and  license  the  said  William  Kidd 
to  set  forth  in  warlike  manner,  and  therewith  by  force  of  arms, 
apprehend,  seize,  and  take  the  ships  and  goods  belonging  to  the 
French  King,  &c. 


176  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


"  In  witness  whereof,  We  have  caused  the  great  seal  of  OUT 
High  Court  of  Admiralty  of  England  to  "be  thereunto  affixed. 
Dated,  llth  day  of  December,  1695." 

Kidd  sailed  from  Plymouth  in  April,  1696  ;  and,  after  taking  a 
valuable  French  ship  on  the  voyage,  arrived  on  the  American 
coast.  Here  he  was  held  in  high  estimation,  for  the  protection 
he  had  afforded  to  the  colonial  commerce.  The  Assembly  were 
so  well  satisfied  with  his  services,  that  they  granted  him  £250 
as  an  acknowledgement. 

After  three  months'  delay  at  New  York,  in  completing 
his  crew  to  one  hundred  and  fifty-five  moii,  he  sailed  for  the 
East  Indies.  On  his  arrival,  in  July,  1697,  he  selected  a  con 
venient  station,  called  Bob's  Key,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Red  Sea, 
a  place  admirably  situated  for  waylaying  and  robbing  the  trade 
to  and  from  the  East  Indies. 

Kidd's  first  attempt  was  against  a  fleet  of  Moorish  vessels,  but 
he  was  forced  to  quit  his  prey  by  several  well  armed  galleys. 
Still  cruising  about,  he  made  a  fruitless  and  unprofitable  attack 
on  some  Portuguese  men-of-war. 

At  length,  fortune  was  more  propitious.  On  the  30th  of 
January,  1697,  about  thirty  miles  off  Cutsheen,  he  fell  in  with 
a  large  Moorish  ship,  "  The  GLuedagh  Merchant,"  arid  speedily 
captured  her.  She  was  a  large  and  very  valuable  prize,  above 
four  hundred  tons.  Her  owners  were  Armenian  merchants,  and 
the  vessel  was  on  her  voyage  from  Surat  to  Bengal.  The  owners 
offered  30,000  rupees  as  ransom,  which  was  refused  by  Kidd, 
who  sold  a  small  portion  of  the  cargo  for  £12,000  ;  also  supply 
ing  both  ships  with  ammunition  and  provisions,  besides  dividing 
plenty  of  gold  among  the  crews. 

Various  other  captures  were  made  as  they  roamed  about  in 
company.  At  length,  the  "  Adventure"  galley  becoming  leaky, 
they  repaired  to  Madagascar,  where  they  arrived  in  May,  1698. 
The  "  Adventure"  was  now  abandoned  and  burned,  and  the 


KIDD,  THE  PIRATE.  177 

plunder  was  divided  into  shares,  as  per  agreement.  This  booty 
was  enormous.  Each  man  had  three  bales  of  rich  goods,  besides 
considerable  amounts  of  gold  and  silver.  The  name  of  Kidd's 
prize,  "  The  Gluedah  Merchant,"  was  now  changed  into  "  Scuddee 
Merchant,"  and  recommenced  ranging  the  Indian  Ocean  from 
the  Red  Sea  to  Malabar,  and  his  depredations  extended  along 
the  Atlantic  coast  of  South  America,  through  the  Bahama 
Islands  to  the  shores  of  Long  Island  ;  this  last  being  selected  as 
the  fittest  for  depositing  his  ill-gotten  wealth. 

It  is  believed,  that  among  numerous  other  valuable  ships,  he 
captured  two  Spanish  galleons,  and  that  he  returned  from  the 
East  with  a  greater  amount  of  treasure,  than  has  ever  been  con 
tained  in  any  floating  vessel. 

The  East  India  Company,  furious  at  the  idea  of  the  disturbance 
of  commercial  relations  with  the  neighboring  potentates,  urged 
the  Government  to  put  a  stop  to  such  lawless  depredations  upon 
the  commerce  of  the  world,  in  which  they  asserted  England,  as 
well  as  other  nations,  suffered.  They  declared,  moreover,  that 
it  became  necessary,  for  the  character  of  the  Government,  and 
the  immunity  of  the  merchants,  to  take  effectual  measures  to 
suppress  the  widely  extended  evil,  and  to  punish  the  individual 
who  had  so  grossly  violated  his  commission,  his  plighted  faith, 
and  the  laws  of  the  civilized  world. 

A  hot  debate  ensued  in  the  English  Parliament,  in  which  the 
most  bitter  charges  were  made  against  the  chancellor  (Lord 
Somers),  and  the  Duke  of  Shrewsbury,  as  co-partners  in  a  pirat 
ical  scheme  ;  and  an  order  was  issued  for  Kidd's  apprehension, 
by  one  of  His  Majesty's  Secretaries  of  State,  as  follows  : 

"Whitehall,  Nov.  23,  1698. 

"  The  Lords  Justices  being  informed  by  several  advices  from 
the  East  Indies,  of  the  notorious  piracies  committed  by  Captain 
Kidd,  Commander  of  the  '  Adventure'  galley,  and  of  his  having 

H* 


178  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


seized  and  plundered  divers  ships  in  those  seas,  their  Excellencies 
have  given  order  to  the  commander  of  the  squadron  fitted  out 
for  the  East  Indies,  that  he  use  his  utmost  endeavors  to  pursue 
and  seize  the  said  Kidd,  if  he  continue  still  in  those  parts, 
so  likewise  they  have  commanded  me  to  signify  their  directions 
to  the  respective  governors  of  the  colonies  under  his  Majesty's 
obedience  in  America,  that  they  give  strict  orders  and  take  par 
ticular  care  for  apprehending  the  said  Kidd  and  his  accomplices, 
whenever  he  or  they  shall  arrive  in  any  of  the  said  plantations  ; 
as  likewise  that  they  secure  his  ship  and  all  the  effects  therein, 
it  being  their  Excellencies'  intention,  that  right  be  done  to  those 
who  have  been  injured  and  robbed  by  the  said  Kidd,  and  that 
he  and  his  associates  be  prosecuted  with  the  utmost  rigor  of  the 
law.  You  are  to  be  careful,  therefore,  duly  to  observe  the  said 
directions,  and  if  the  said  Kidd  or  any  of  his  accomplices  happen 
ed  to  be  seized  within  the  province  under  your  government,  you 
are  forthwith  to  transmit  an  account  thereof  hither,  and  take 
care  that  the  said  persons,  ship,  and  efiects  be  secured  till  his  Ma 
jesty's  pleasure  be  known  concerning  them. 

"  I  am,  Gentlemen, 
'•  Your  most  faithful,  humble  servant, 
"  JA.  YERNON." 

Kidd's  accusers  asserted  that  the  first  piratical  act  of  this  bold 
marauder  was  at  Malabar,  on  the  Red  Sea,  where  he  took  a 
quantity  of  corn  ;  after  which,  he  continued  his  depredations.  A 
more  bloody,  daring,  and  cruel  pirate,  according  to  their  account 
never  infested  the  ocean.  The  King  finally  offered  a  reward  for  his 
apprehension,  and  a  free  pardon,  by  proclamation,  to  every  pirate 
who  should  surrender  himself  before  the  30th  of  April,  1699. 

On  Kidd's  homeward  passage  from  the  West  Indies  to  Boston, 
he  anchored  in  Gardener's  Bay,  at  the  east  end  of  Long  Island, 
where  he  went  on  shore  ;  and  in  the  presence  of  Mr.  John  Gar- 


KIDD,  THE  PIRATE.  179 


dener.  owner  of  the  island,  and,  under  the  most  solemn  injunc 
tions  of  secrecy,  buried  a  quantity  of  gold,  silver  and  precious 
stones.  He  then  sailed  to  Boston,  where,  on  the  3d  July,  he  was 
summoned  before  Lord  Belmont  (a  party  to  the  original  adven 
ture),  and  was  required  to  give  an  account  of  his  proceedings, 
while  in  the  service  of  the  company  ;  which  he  obstinately  refused 
to  do.  On  the  same  day,  the  Assembly  of  Massachusetts  examined 
him  ;  and  on  the  6th  ordered  his  apprehension.  His  wife,  Sarah, 
came  from  New  York,  and  claimed  some  plate,  which  had  been 
seized,  as  her  property  ;  this  was  restored  to  her.  A  letter  from 
the  King  and  Council,  of  February  10th,  1699,  having  required 
all  pirates  to  be  sent  to  England  for  trial,  Kidd,  with  Joseph 
Bradish,  and  several  others,  was  transported  thence. 

Kidd  was  put  on  trial  for  the  murder  of  William  Moore,  gunner 
of  the  ship,  whom  he  had  killed  by  striking  him  on  the  head 
with  a  bucket.      The  trial  was  conducted  with  great  severity 
and  injustice;  Bradenham,  the  doctor  of  Kidd's  ship,  being  the 
chief  witness  against  him.     Moore,  the  gunner,  was  proved  to 
have  attempted  a  mutiny  against  Kidd.     In  the  altercation  that 
ensued  Kidd  threw  a  bucket,  and  fractured  Moore's  skull.     From 
the   evidence,  published   at  length  in  Hargrave's  State  Trials, 
1777,  we  can  not  arrive  at  any  other  conclusion  than  that  given 
by  Kidd  himself,  namely:  "  that  it  was  an  accident,  for  which 
he  was  heartily  sorry."     He  was,  however,  found  guilty,  sen 
tenced  to  death,  and  executed  at  Execution  Dock,  May  12th, 
1701.     On  his  previous  visit  to  Gardener's  Island,  in  the  absence 
of  Mr.  G-ardener,  he  presented  his  wife  with  two  small  blankets 
of  gold  cloth,  rich  and  beautiful.     In  a  letter  from  the  present 
proprietor  of  the  island,  he  says:  "We  have  a  small  piece,  a 
sample  of  cloth  of  gold,  which  my  father  received  from   Mrs. 
Wetmore,  mother  of  the  wife  of  Captain  Mather  of  New  London. 
1  send  you  an  extract  from  her  letter,  giving  an  account  of  Cap 
tain  Kidd's  having  been  on  this  island." 


18Q  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


"  I  remember,"  she  says,  "  when  very  young,  hearing  my 
mother  say  that  her  grandmother  was  wife  to  Lord  Gardener, 
when  the  pirate  Kidd  came  to  Gardener's  Island.  The  captain 
wanted  Mrs.  Gardener  to  roast  him  a  pig  :  she  being  afraid  to 
refuse  him,  cooked  it  very  nice,  and  he  was  much  pleased  with 
it  ;  he  then  made  her  a  present  of  this  silk,  which  she  gave  to 
her  two  daughters.  Where  the  other  went,  or  whether  it  is  in 
being,  I  know  not  ;  but  this  was  handed  down  to  me  ;  it  has 
been  kept  very  nice,  and,  I  believe,  is  now  as  good  as  when  first 
given,  which  must  be  upward  of  a  hundred  years." 

It  having  been  ascertained,  in  some  way,  that  he  had  buried 
treasures  upon  this  island,  commissioners  were  dispatched  from 
Boston,  by  Governor  Belmont,  to  secure  the  same.  Having 
taken  possession  of  it,  they  gave  to  Mr.  Gardener  a  receipt  there 
for,  the  original  of  which  is  still  preserved  by  the  family,  and  is 
as  follows  : 

"  A  true  account  of  all  such  gold,  silver,  jewels,  and  mer 
chandise,  late  in  the  possession  of  Captain  William  Kidd,  which 
have  been  seized  and  secured  by  us  in  pursuance  of  an  order 
from  his  Excellency,  Richard,  Earl  of  Belmont,  bearing  date 
July  7,  1699  : 

"Received,  the  17th  instant,  of  Mr.  John  Gardener,  viz.  : 

oz. 
1  .  One  bag  of  dust-gold  .........................      63  J 

2.  One  bag  of  coined  gold  ........................      11 

one  in  silver  .........................    124 


4.  One  bag  of  silver  rings  and  sundry  precious  stones  .  .         4g 

5.  One  bag  of  unpolished  stones  ...................      12^ 

6.  One  piece  of  crystal,  cornelian  rings,  two  agates,  two 

amethysts. 

7.  One  bag  of  silver  buttons  and  lamps. 

8.  One  bag  of  broken  silver  ......................    173| 

9.  One  bag  of  gold  bars  .........................    353| 


KIDD,  THE  PIRATE.  181 


10.  One  bag  of  gold  bars 238| 

1 1 .  One  bag  of  dust-gold 59i 

12.  One  bag  of  silver  bars 309 

"SAMUEL  SEWELL, 
"NATHANIEL  BYFIELD, 
"JEREMIAH  DUMMER, 
"ANDREW  BELCHER. 

"  Commissioners." 

The  inventory  of  the  whole  property  obtained  by  the  commis 
sioners,  shows  a  more  considerable  sum  than  is  included  in  the 
above  receipt.  Some  was  found  in  the  prisoner's  chest,  and 
more  in  the  possession  of  Duncan  Campbell,  of  New  York, 
which  had  been  landed  from  on  board  the  sloop  "  Antonio,"  the 
last  vessel  commanded  by  the  pirate.  The  schedule,  in  posses 
sion  of  Mr.  Gardener,  exhibits  the  amount  to  be  1111  ounces 
of  gold,  2350  ounces  t>f  silver,  seventeen  ounces  of  jewels  and 
precious  stones,  sixty-nine  precious  stones,  fifty-seven  bars  of 
sugar,  forty-one  bales  of  merchandise,  seventeen  pieces  of  canvas, 
one  large  loadstone,  sundry  silver  candlesticks,  and  other  articles 
of  value. 

The  Gluedah,  or  Scuddee  Merchant,  with  the  main  portion  of 
the  treasure,  disappeared,  and  was  apparently  lost  forever.  But 
some  years  ago,  a  very  old  man,  having  acquired  a  competence, 
bought  a  portion  of  land  at  the  entrance  of  the  Highlands  on  the 
banks  of  the  Hudson  River.  This  was  considered  a  strange 
location  at  the  time,  as  it  was  far  from  the  habitation  of  men. 
Shortly  before  his  death,  he  informed  some  relatives  that  his 
father  had  revealed  to  him  that,  when  he  was  a  young  man,  he 
was  witness  to  the  arrival  of  a  large  Moorish  ship,  the  "  Scuddee 
Merchant,"  which  had  been  chased  up  the  Hudson  River  by  the 
king's  cruisers.  When  she  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  the  High 
lands,  the  wind  suddenly  shifted  to  the  north,  preventing  her 
further  progress  up  the  Hudson,  and  the  crew,  afraid  of  being 


182  TOUR  IN  AMERICA. 


captured,  ran  her  close  to  a  steep  bank,  and  set  her  on  fire.  She 
speedily  foundered,  and  the  crew  escaped  on  shore. 

Informant's  father  had  likewise  explained  to  him  that  the 
vessel  was  loaded  with  gold  and  silver,  and  that  the  crew  had 
received  directions  from  Kidd  (who  had  gone  to  Boston,  with 
about  £10,000,  to  make  terms  with  the  governor,  Lord  Belmont), 
to  take  the  vessel  to  Livingstone  Manor,  the  property  of  Colonel 
Livingstone,  his  partner. 

These  rich  tidings  were  corroborated  by  sundry  other  circum 
stances,  and  excited  the  public  mind  exceedingly.  Moreover, 
the  land  adjacent  had  been  purchased  by  the  old  man,  with 
the  intention  of  trying,  at  some  future  time,  to  rescue  the 
treasure. 

At  length,  a  company  was  organized  to-  search,  and  active 
proceedings  were  commenced.  First,  they  bored  at  the  spot 
indicated  with  long  augurs,  and  were  speedily  assured  that  a 
large  ship  lay  there.  After  boring  through  a  certain  thickness 
of  wood,  they  came  to  some  metallic  substance.  This  encour 
aged  them  amazingly,  and  they  increased  their  outlay,  to  enable 
them  to  build  a  coffer-dam  round  the  vessel — no  easy  task,  as 
the  river  was  fifty  feet  deep ;  moreover,  the  soil  had  been  washed 
down  from  the  banks  in  the  lapse  of  so  many  years,  sufficient  to 
cover  the  wreck  to  the  depth  of  many  feet. 

After  overcoming  the  natural  difficulties  they  completed  the 
coffer-dam,  and  set  a  powerful  engine  at  work  to  pump  the  water 
out.  With  incredible  exertion  they  succeeded  in  lowering  the 
water  considerably,  and  began  to  look  forward  to  a  successful 
result  to  their  labors.  Suddenly,  however,  they  discovered  that 
the  pump  not  only  did  not  lower  the  water,  but  that  they  had 
the  greatest  difficulty  in  holding  their  own.  On  a  careful  ex 
amination,  for  this  provoking  leak,  they  ascertained  that  it  was 
caused  by  a  subterranean  stream  rushing  in  beneath  the  coffer 
dam  with  great  force.  This  checked  the  enterprise,  almost  at 


KIDD,  THE  PIRATE.  183 


the  point  of  success.  Differences  arose  between  the  parties,  and 
the  case  is  now  in  the  law  courts. 

From  all  we  have  heard  and  read  on  this  subject,  we  are 
inclined  to  believe  that  this  is  the  richest  and  most  remarkable 
instance  of  treasure-trove  that  ever  interested  the  public  mind. 
"We  have  heard,  from  good  authority,  that  parties  are  now  organ 
izing,  and  preparing  very  powerful  and  effective  means  to  carry 
on  the  project. 

We  fully  believe  that  the  duedagh,  or  Scuddee  Merchant  lies 
there  ;  and  do  not  see  why,  with  such  skill  and  energy  as  Brother 
Jonathan  will  bring  to  bear  on  such  a  project,  it  should  not  be 
successful,  and  prove  as  profitable  a  venture  as  that  of  Phipps. 


MISCELLANEOUS  NARRATIVES. 


A   HURRICANE   IN   ANTIGUA. 


The  mists,  that  late  involved  the  hill, 
Disperse.      The  mid-day  sun  looks  red  :    strange  burrs 
Surround  the  stars,  which  vaster  fill  the  eye. 
A  night  of  vapor,  closing  fast  around, 
Snatches  the  golden  noon.      Each  wind  appeased, 
The  north  flies  forth,  and  hurls  the  frighted  air  : 
Not  all  the  brazen  engineries  of  man, 
At  once  exploded,  the  wild  burst  surpass. 
Yet  thunder,  yoked  with  lightning  and  with  rain, 
Water  with  fire,  increase  the  infernal  din  : 
Canes,  shrubs,  trees,  huts,  are  whirled  aloft  in  air. 

GRAINGER. 

READER,  were  you  ever  in  a  West-Indian  hurricane  ?  If  such 
has  been  your  lot,  I  am  sure  you  will  agree  with  me  in  heartily 
and  anxiously  wishing  never  to  behold  one  again  ;  for  though 
there  is  something  strangely  fascinating  in  scenes  of  terror,  few 
desire  to  renew  their  acquaintance  with  them. 

The  following  description  of  an  unusually  severe  elemental 
convulsion,  is  derived  from  notes  taken  while  on  a  visit,  in 
August,  a  few  years  ago,  to  a  friend  at  Dry-Hill  House,  in  the 
vicinity  of  St.  John's,  the  capital  of  Antigua.  It  is  the  faint 
record  of  a  calamity  which  will  be  memorable  in  the  annals  of 
that  unfortunate  island. 

The  inmates  of  my  friend's  mansion  were  one  morning  early 


188  A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA. 

astir,  and  actively  employed  in  preparations  for  a  marriage-feast. 
With  the  happy,  careless  air,  peculiar  to  their  race,  negro  wo 
men  and  children  were  bustling  among  the  large  and  luxuriant 
foliage  which,  if  it  every  now  and  then  concealed  them  from 
view,  could  not  stifle  the  sound  of  their  rapid  chattering,  their 
giggling  laughter,  and  snatches  of  songs,  conveyed  in  the  queer 
negro  dialect.  This  irrepressible  animation,  reckless  gayety,  and 
vivacious  defiance  of  care,  can  hardly  be  imagined  by  the  in 
habitants  of  our  northern  climate.  The  merriment  of  negroes 
surpasses  that  of  any  other  branch  of  the  great  human  family. 

I  also  had  risen  early  on  this  festive  occasion,  being  unwilling 
to  lose  any  portion  of  the  hilarity  which  I  knew  would  com 
mence  with  the  earliest  light  of  morning.  Never  shall  I  forget 
the  splendor  with  which  the  day  broke — a  splendor  to  be  wit 
nessed  only  in  the  tropics.  The  sun  slowly  rose  from  the  glass- 
like  sea,  first  glancing  on  a  few  clouds  which  had  congregated, 
then 

"Flattering  the  mountain-tops  with  sovereign  eye," 

and  gradually  revealing  the  gorgeous  colors  of  the  vegetation.  1 
gazed  with  rapture  on  the  serene  magnificence,  and  the  language 
of  the  Psalmist  was  not  unremembered  :  "  The  heavens  de 
clare  the  glory  of  God ;  and  the  firmament  showeth  his  handy- 
work." 

My  ruminations,  at  this  moment,  were  disturbed  by  one  of  the 
servants  (a  black  girl),  who  brought  me  a  cup  of  coffee  and  a 
cigar — the  usual  morning-custom  on  a  West-Indian  plantation. 
It  struck  me  that  something  uncommon,  nay,  even  ominous,  was 
observable  in  the  expression  of  her  countenance,  and  I  waited, 
with  no  little  curiosity,  to  hear  what  she  had  to  communicate. 

"  Hy,  massa,"  said  she,  "  here  de  coffee.  How  do  you  do  dis 
morning?"  Then,  with  a  significant  glance,  she  added,  "  Ole 
massa,  he  say,  will  nyung  massa  look  at  'rometer  ?" 


A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA.  189 


"  Thank  you,  Nancy,"  I  replied,  "  it  will  be  time  enough  to 
inspect  the  weather-glass  when  I  have  finished  my  coffee.  How 
are  you,  Nancy  ?" 

"  So-so,  rader  poorly,  tank  Grod,  massa,"  rejoined  the  girl  as, 
with  a  sigh,  she  left  me. 

"  Yery  mysterious,"  thought  I,  "is  this  message  about  the 
barometer  with  my  morning  coffee.  It  never  occurred  before 
during  my  visit  here.  Something  strange  must  be  in  4l  --Anther. 
Let  me  see  if  I  can  find  it  out." 

I  accordingly  looked  carefully  round  at  all  points  of  the  com 
pass  ;  but  nothing  extraordinary  was  perceptible,  excepting  that 
a  dull  haze  crept  languidly  over  the  scene,  and  that  the  silence 
was  awful. 

In  a  few  minutes,  having  finished  my  cigar,  I  went  into  my 
friend's  bedroom.  Though  generally  an  early  riser,  he  was,  on 
this  occasion,  still  in  bed. 

"  Hallo !"  exclaimed  I,  "  why  are  you  still  there  ?  Up,  man, 
up,  and  set  to  work  :  you  have  plenty  to  do  this  day." 

"Heaven  grant,"  responded  he,  "that  I  may  not  have  too 
much  to  do  before  a  few  hours  are  past !  There's  a  hurricane 
in  the  air — I  am  sure  of  it." 

"  Stuff  and  nonsense!"  I  rejoined.  "The  barometer  stands 
firmly  at  30°  ;  it  has  rather  gone  up  since  yesterday." 

"  My  dear  boy,"  returned  he,  emphatically,  "  I  have  been 
thirty  years  a  resident  in  the  West  Indies.  During  that  time  I 
have  witnessed  eight  hurricanes.  The  last  three  were  fore 
shadowed  by  my  own  sensations.  These  sensations  are  now 
aggravated  tenfold.  A  terrible  day  is  before  us." 

That  forebodings  like  those  under  which  my  friend  then  suf 
fered,  are  unerring,  I  have  since  that  time  ascertained.  They 
are  produced  by  two  causes,  namely,  physical  derangement,  and 
observation  of  meteorological  peculiarities.  In  his  treatise  on 
European  Colonies,  Mr.  Howison  observes,  "  Persons  long  resi- 


190  A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA. 


dent  in  the  West  Indian  Islands  are  able  to  foretell  the  approach 
of  hurricanes  with  tolerable  accuracy,  by  the  observation  of  cer 
tain  atmospherical  phenomena ;  but  this  kind  of  knowledge 
proves,  unfortunately,  of  little  avail,  either  on  shore  or  at  sea  ; 
the  violence  of  the  tempest  generally  rendering  impotent  all  pre 
cautions  that  may  be  employed  against  its  destructive  effects. 
On  the  day  preceding  the  hurricane,  the  weather  is  almost  always 
calm  and  sultry,  and  the  sea-breeze  does  not  set  in  at  the  usual 
hour,  or,  perhaps,  is  not  felt  at  all;  the  sky  is  red  and  hazy, 
arid  the  horizon  surcharged  with  clouds  ;  the  noise  of  the  surf 
seems  particularly  loud  and  distinct ;  and  thunder,  more  or  less 
distant,  is  heard  incessantly.  At  length,  the  wind  begins  to 
blow  in  shifting  gusts,  and  to  lull  again  ;  these  increase  in 
strength  and  frequency,  and  ere  long  the  blast  comes  roaring 
from  one  quarter  with  concentrated  fury."  This,  no  doubt,  is 
generally  correct ;  but  it  does  not  precisely  describe  the  morn 
ing  witnessed  by  me. 

As  I  perceived  my  friend  to  be  really  in  earnest,  and  that  he 
was  suffering  greatly  under  his  apprehensions,  I  gave  in  to  his 
humor,  and  promised  to  note  accurately  the  appearances  of  the 
weather,  and  the  movements  of  the  mercury  in  the  barometer. 

This  assurance  seemed  a  little  to  relieve  him. 

"I  shall  leave  all  preparations  and  precautions  to  you,"  said 
he.  "I  am  quite  unnerved,  as  is  always  the  case  when  these 
fearful  tempests  are  breeding  in  the  air.  The  tornado  will  be 
upon  us  within  twenty-four  hours." 

It  can  not  be  supposed  that  a  young  man  who,  for  five  years 
previously,  had  been  knocking  about  in  all  parts  of  the  world  in 
small  vessels,  could  sympathize  with  the  climate- worn  arid 
sensitive  planter.  I,  therefore,  left  the  bedroom  in  excellent 
spirits  ;  not  only  without  apprehension,  but  actually  longing  for 
the  hurricane  to  arrive,  as  excellent  fun ;  so  rash  and  thought 
less  is  youth. 


A  HUERICANE   IN  ANTIGUA.  191 


Outside  the  house  I  met  Betsey,  the  staid  black  housekeeper, 
feeding  the  poultry. 

"Well,  Betsey,"  said  I,  "  massa  say  hurricane  come  to-day." 

Never  did  a  lew  words  produce  such  a  change  in  the  person 
\\  ho  heard  them.  The  woman's  gabble  to  the  cocks  and  hens 
ceu&ed  suddenly.  A  grave,  disconcerted  look  supplanted  the 
good-humored  smile  which  had  played  about  her  thick  lips.  I 
might  almost  say  she  turned  pale  ;  and  the  measure  of  corn  fell 
from  her  hands.  It  was  evident  that  until  now  she  had  heard 
nothing  of  her  master's  prognostications. 

"  Oh,  ky,  ky  !"  sobbed  she.  "  Massa  always  right."  And  off 
she  ran,  in  violent  perturbation. 

"  The  devil !"  exclaimed  I,  "  here's  a  pretty  kettle  offish  !" 

In  a  few  minutes,  the  whole  household  was  in  violent  com 
motion.  Messengers  were  instantly  dispatched  to  the  sugar- 
works  (about  half  a  mile  inland),  and  also  to  the  cove,  where 
an  establishment  of  small  vessels  was  kept  for  various  purposes, 
such  as  sugar-droghing,  collecting  coral  to  burn  into  lime,  &c. 
Meantime,  the  table  in  the  dining-room  was  removed,  disclosing 
a  huge  trap-door  leading  down  to  a  spacious  cellar.  Into  this 
chasm,  contrived  as  a  place  of  refuge  during  hurricanes,  the 
scared  nigger-kind  conveyed  all  the  most  portable  articles  of 
value. 

By  nine  o'clock,  all  needful  preparations  were  completed,  and 
a  hurried  breakfast  was  snatched.  The  barometer  certainly 
had  a  downward  tendency,  having  fallen  '03°  but  there  was  no 
other  perceptible  indication  of  a  change.  A  light  air  from 
E.N.E.  had  now  set  in — the  usual  trade-wind  ;  but  all  was 
placid  and  beautiful  as  before.  In  the  yard  grew  a  magnificent 
tamarind-tree,  loaded  with  nearly  ripe  fruit.  The  pods  hung 
in  large  and  tempting  clusters ;  and  the  foliage,  gently  agitated 
ly  the  breeze,  gracefully  waved  to  and  fro. 

The  domestic  animals  were  evidently  disturbed  :  their  man- 


192  A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA. 

ner  was  hurried  and  uneasy.     They  clearly  had  a  knowledge 
of  impending  evil. 

Not  being  so  skeptical  as  to  disbelieve  these  signs,  slight  as 
they  were,  I  kept  all  my  senses  on  the  alert,  watching  alter 
nately  the  mercury  in  the  barometer,  and  the  signs  of  the 
weather.  By  eleven  o'clock,  a  more  decided  fall  in  the  glass 
was  evident;  it  had  gone  down  to  29'80°.  To  the  northward 
the  horizon  had  darkened  considerably.  The  trade-wind,  how 
ever,  still  swept  gently  and  refreshingly  over  us  ;  but  at  two 
P.M.  it  died  away,  and  then  the  mercury  fell  considerably. 

All  doubt  about  the  approaching  tempest  was  now  dispelled 
The  black  inhabitants  of  the  small  cottages  in  the  vicinity,  be 
longing  to  the  estate,  flocked  up  to  Dry-Hill  House,  to  seek  con 
solation  from  companionship  with  the  white  people. 

A  light  breeze  soon  sprang  up  from  the  north,  and,  as  it  rose, 
the  mercury  fell.  At  three  o'clock  a  furious  gale  was  raging. 
Being  anxious  to  observe  the  proceedings  of  the  shipping,  I 
slipped  out  of  the  back  part  of  the  house,  and  went  down  to 
ward  a  cliff  overlooking  the  anchorage.  To  my  great  disgust  as 
a  sailor,  I  perceived  among  the  twelve  merchant- vessels,  lying 
in  the  roads,  that  only  four  were  making  any  preparations  to 
withstand  the  typhoon.  Three  were  at  single  anchor,  with  a 
short  scope  of  chain,  and  top-gallant  yards  across,  and  one  brig 
with  royal-yards  and  head-sails  loosed.  Such  bare-faced  and 
lubberly  carelessness  is  almost  incredible.  "  Old  Columbus" 
knew  better.  He  soon  made  himself  master  of  the  signs  pre 
ceding  a  hurricane  in  the  West  Indies. 

"  When  he  was  off  the  principal  Spanish  West  Indian  settle 
ment  at  St.  Domingo,  he  foresaw  that  a  hurricane  would  shortly 
arise,  and  sent  to  Ovando,  the  governor  of  the  place,  to  request 
that  he  might  be  allowed  to  take  refuge  in  the  harbor  ;  but 
this  being  refused,  he  was  obliged  to  stand  out  to  sea,  and  face 
the  storm.  '  What  man,  without  excepting  even  Job,  would 


A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA.  193 

not  have  died  of  despair,'  says  Columbus,  '  to  find  that,  at  the 
crisis  when  the  lives  of  myself,  my  son,  my  brother,  and  my 
friends  were  in  danger,  I  was  prohibited  from  approaching  that 
country,  and  those  ports,  which,  under  the  blessing  of  God,  I 
had  purchased  for  Spain  at  the  expense  of  my  blood  !'  At  this 
time  a  fleet  of  twenty-four  ships  was  about  to  sail  for  Spain, 
carrying  large  quantities  of  gold  and  pearls,  partly  the  revenues 
of  the  king,  and  partly  the  property  of  those  private  individuals 
who  were  passengers  on  board.  Columbus,  notwithstanding 
Ovando's  inhumanity,  advised  him  to  detain  the  fleet  a  few 
days,  because  a  tornado  was  likely  soon  to  occur ;  but  his  warn 
ings  were  treated  with  contempt,  and  the  vessels  were  suffered 
to  proceed  on  their  voyage.  Before  the  close  of  the  following 
day,  twenty  of  their  number,  with  fifteen  hundred  persons  had 
foundered  in  the  hurricane.  The  loss  of  treasure  on  this  occa 
sion  was  so  great  as  to  affect  the  financial  resources  of  Spain  for 
several  years  after."* 

As  the  wind  still  steadily  increased,  I  considered  it  best  to  get 
back  to  the  shelter  of  the  house.  To  enable  me  to  do  this  con 
veniently,  it  was  necessary  I  should  creep  along  under  the  gar 
den  bank,  which  offered  some  protection  against  the  gale.  Not 
having  the  slightest  idea  that  the  force  of  the  wind  would  be  so 
enormous  in  this  early  stage  of  the  hurricane,  I  attempted  t6 
walk  past  a  gateway,  and  heing  instantly  struck  by  the  full 
power  of  the  blast,  was  rolled  over,  and  driven,  as  by  a  giant's 
strength,  violently  along  the  ground.  For  a  moment  I  gave 
myself  up  for  lost,  as  the  harbor  of  St.  John  was  directly  in  my 
compelled  course.  Fortunately,  before  coming  to  the  open 
water,  the  land  declined  into  a  bushy  marsh.  Here,  assisted  by 
the  underwood,  I  clung  firmly  to  Mother  Earth. 

After  resting  awhile  and  collecting  my  thoughts,  I  succeeded, 
by  taking  advantage  of  the  nature  of  the  ground,  which  sheltered 
*  Howison's  "Colonies." 
I 


194  A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA. 

me  in  some  measure  from  the  wind,  in  regaining  the  yard  of 
Dry-Hill  House.  The  stunning  roar  of  the  blast  continued,  and 
the  noble  tamarind-tree,  writhing,  seemingly  in  agony,  was 
grinding  its  huge  limbs,  whipping  off  large  branches,  and  throw 
ing  them  and  the  fruit  violently  about,  as  if  by  this  oblation  it 
hoped  to  appease  the  demon  of  the  gale.  Alas  !  the  sacrifice 
appeared  only  to  incense  and  provoke  its  rage. 

I  entered  the  mansion,  and  sat  down  to  regain  my  breath.  It 
now  became  necessary  to  close  and  barricade  every  door  in  the 
house,  and  nail  the  windows  firmly  down.  A  crowd  of  women 
and  children  were  huddled  together  on  the  floor  in  silence.  Con 
versation  was  impossible,  on  account  of  the  furious  noise. 

My  imagination  had  been  very  much  excited  by  the  dismem 
berment  of  my  favorite  tamarind.  The  idea  of  its  apparent  tor 
ture  held  me  in  thrall.  Through  a  crevice  in  one  of  the  shutters,  I. 
painfully  watched  its  throes.  Its  main  branches  (the  growth  of 
a  hundfed  years)  wrestled  obstinately  with  the  opposing  force  : 
their  groaning  was  heard  above  the  mighty  wind  ;  and  soon  no 
thing  was  left  but  a  few  jagged  stumps  on  the  blackened  trunk. 

Darkness  now  closed  upon  us.  The  violence  of  the  tempest 
waxed  stronger  and  stronger  :  the  noise  increased  to  such  an 
overwhelming  roar,  that  the  strongest  efforts  of  the  human  voice, 
in  closest  proximity,  became  totally  useless  :  they  were  "  as  a 
whisper  in  the  ears  of  death,  unheard."  Loud  cracks  now  gave 
notice  that  the  house  began  to  complain.  The  women  and  chil 
dren  were  immediately  roused  from  their  sitting  position,  and,  by 
signs,  desired  to  go  below.  This  movement  was  speedily  effected, 
and  the  ground  floor  was  left  in  possession  of  the  manager  and 
myself.  Our  attention  was  now  divided  between  the  barometer, 
which  fortunately  hung  near  the  open  trap-door  (our  last  retreat) 
and  the  perilous  vibration  of  the  building.  The  walls  appeared 
to  bend  and  give  before  the  raging  blast. 

Suddenly,  a  violent  shock  was  felt,  sending  a  thrill  to  our 


A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA.  195 

hearts.  This  was  afterward  ascertained  to  be  caused  by  the 
demolition  of  the  kitchen,  stables,  and  outhouses  adjoining  the 
dwelling,  which,  with  all  their  contents,  had  flown  away  on  the 
wings  of  the  wind.  Not  a  vestige  was  ever  recovered  or  seen. 
Numerous  smaller  shocks  succeeded,  like  reports  of  cannon.  Huge 
stones  were  hurled  through  the  air,  battering  and  tearing  away 
the  verandas  that  surrounded  the  house. 

To  crown  our  dismay,  a  large  spout  of  heavy  wood,  intended 
to  convey  the  cane-juice  from  the  mill  to  the  boiling-house  of  a 
neighboring  estate,  two  miles  to  the  northward,  came  spear-like, 
through  the  air,  penetrating  the  roof,  piercing  the  table,  and 
fixing  itself  into  the  floor  close  to  us.  The  part  which  projected 
above  the  roof  caught  the  gale,  and  acted  as  a  powerful  lever, 
shaking  the  house  as  if  it  were  pasteboard.  In  a  moment  more 
it  parted,  leaving  the  lower  portion  still  fixed. 

At  this  time,  the  barometer  had  fallen  to  28-50.  We  felt,  or 
fancied  we  felt,  the  house  giving  way.  Taking  a  farewell  look 
at  our  faithful  monitor,  we  prepared  to  descend  into  the  cellar. 
To  my  intense  astonishment,  the  mercury  suddenly  fell  a  quarter 
of  an  inch.  In  the  excitement  of  the  moment,  I  seized  hold  of 
the  manager,  roaring  the  information  in  his  ear  ;  but,  as  before, 
the  human  voice  was  of  no  avail  in  such  a  turmoil.  By  dumb 
show,  I  succeeded. 

On  a  sudden,  we  were  aware  of  a  marvelous  change  in  the 
state  of  things. 

"  Great  Heaven  !"  I  ejaculated,  "  what  can  this  mean?" 

There  was  a  dead  cairn — a  profound  silence,  disturbed  only  by 
the  low,  wailing  sobs  and  incoherent  prayers  of  the  women  and 
children  in  the  cellar.  We  ivere  in  the  vortex  of  the  hurricane  ! 
It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  horror  of  this  period.  A  door  was 
unbarred  and  opened,  and,  with  a  lighted  candle,  I  stepped  out. 
The  flame  took  its  upward  course  steadily.  All  around  was 
black,  and  calm,  and  silent. 


196  A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA. 

But  the  stillness  was  of  brief  duration.  In  a  short  time,  a  dis 
tant  rumbling  noise  was  heard,  when  I  quickly  re-entered  the 
house,  drawing  bolt  and  bar.  A  slight  tremor  shook  the  ground! 
an  earthquake  was  added  to  our  ills.  Again  came  the  hurricane 
from  the  opposite  quarter,  overwhelming  our  senses  with  its 
fierce  impetuosity.  The  house,  already  shaken,  now  rocked  to 
and  fro,  threatening  instant  destruction.  We  immediately  de 
scended  into  the  cellar,  fastening  down  the  trap-door  with  a 
strong  lashing.  During  several  dreary  hours,  we  remained  in 
suspense,  stunned  by  the  hellish  disturbance  overhead,  while  our 
feelings  were  occasionally  varied  by  the  horrible  and  sickening 
sensation  of  the  earthquake.  Some  bottles  were  thrown  down 
by  the  agitation  of  the  ground,  and  the  long  rows  of  rum-casks 
grotesquely  heaved,  as  if  instinct  with  life,  and  tottered  and  fell 
in  the  most  approved  style  of  German  demon-pranks. 

At  four  A.M.,  there  was  a  sensible  diminution  of  the  gale. 
We  proceeded  carefully  to  unfasten  the  trap-door.  On  its  falling 
back,  the  moon  was  plainly  visible,  throwing  light  on  groups  of 
dense,  black  clouds  driving  furiously  across  the  heavens.  No 
thing  was  above  us  but  the  sky  !  The  upper  part  of  the  house 
was  gone  ! 

My  friend  proceeded  with  me  to  a  rising  ground,  waiting  in 
anxious  expectation  for  daylight.  His  agitation  was  extreme. 
Dawn  was  in  the  east. 

"  Look  toward  the  mill,"  he  said.  "  I  can  not  do  it.  It  must 
be  gone.  Nothing  could  Avithstand  such  a  night.  I  am  a  ruin 
ed  man  !" 

My  eyes  were  strained  anxiously  in  the  direction  of  the  mill. 
At  length  I  exclaimed  : 

"  Cheer  up  :  The  work  stands  firm  and  strong.  All  yonder 
seems  to  be  right." 

The  sun  now  appeared  with  the  serenity  which  marked  its  rise 
on  the  preceding  day  ;  but  the  scene  of  devastation  that  met  our 


A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA.  197 

eyes  baffles  all  power  of  description.  Had  a  hot  blast  from  hell 
passed  over  the  whole  island,  the  effect  could  not  have  been 
more  destructive.  Vegetation,  human  habitations,  animal  life, 
all  had  vanished. 

On  our  return  to  the  house,  we  passed  through  what  had 
been  a  group  of  lofty  cocoa-nut  trees,  of  which  nothing  remained 
but  stumps,  standing  only  a  few  feet  from  the  earth.  The  huge 
tops,  foliage,  fruit,  and  remainder  of  the  trunk?  were  gone.  A 
solid  stone  wall,  two  feet  high,  surmounted  by  iron  railings,  had 
surrounded  the  house.  This,  railings  and  all,  were  blown  away 
in  masses  ;  some  of  two  hundred  weight  were  afterward  found 
a  mile  off. 

The  previous  day  we  were  in  the  midst  of  plenty  and  luxury, 
now  we  were  glad  to  banquet  on  a  decayed  ham  luckily  found 
in  the  cellar. 

Reports  soon  came  in  from  the  different  parts  of  the  property. 
We  understood  that  the  cove-house  was  blown  down,  and  that 
all  the  small  vessels  were  driven  high  and  dry  far  above  high- 
water"  mark  into  the  jungle  on  Rat  Island.  The  overseer  of  the 
works,  a  black,  reported  all  destroyed  except  the  boiling-house, 
which,  however,  had  sustained  serious  injury.  Its  steam-engine 
chimney  was  blown  down,  and  the  earthquake  had  made  a  rent 
in  its  wall. 

"  Is  any  one  killed  ?"  asked  I. 

"Yes,  rnassa,"  returned  the  overseer,  "three  nigger  miss 
ing." 

"  But  is  any  one  killed  ?"  I  repeated. 

"  Oh,  no  massa,  nobody  kill,"  replied  the  overseer,  "  only  big 
rock  'tone  mash  up  poor  Peggy  head." 

"  You  don't  mean  to  say  she's  dead  ?"  persisted  I. 

"  Urn  head  mash  quite  up,  massa,"  responded  the  negro. 
"  Big  rock  'tone  corne  tro  de  air,  tro  de  roof,  hit  um  so,"  added 
he,  with  a  queer  gesticulation,  "  kill  um  dead." 


198  A  HURRICANE  IN  ANTIGUA. 

I  ascertained  afterward,  that  the  poor  woman  had  been  killed 
in  the  manner  described. 

The  natural  anxiety  of  a  sailor  again  led  me  down  to  view  the 
shipping.  Never  did  I  behold  such  a  scene  of  wreck  !  Two  of 
the  largest  craft  had  foundered  with  all  hands  ;  the  lower  mast 
heads  still  sticking  above  the  water.  The  small  vessels,  as  al 
ready  stated,  I  found  a  long  way  above  high-water  mark.  Three 
had  ridden  out  the  storm,  and  among  them,  to  my  surprise,  the 
brig.  There  she  lay,  still  at  single  anchor,  the  main  royal-yard 
still  crossed,  but  the  fore  top-mast-head  twisted  off,  and  all  the 
upper  gear  gone.  Who  can  account  for  this  ? 

The  poor  steamer  to  which  I  was  attached  in  English  Harbor 
had  fared  very  badly.  In  the  first  part  of  the  gale  she  had  dragged 
the  huge  moorings,  and  gone  broadside  on  to  the  wharf.  On  the 
gale  shifting,  not  being  able  to  snap  the  numerous  fastenings  by 
which  she  was  secured  to  the  buried  guns,  she  had  torn  down 
the  whole  length  of  the  wharf  whereto  she  was  attached,  and 
dragged  huge  masses  of  debris  into  the  harbor.  Several  ponder 
ous  stone  buildings  in  the  dockyard  were  blown  down,  and  a 
Dutch  corvette,  strongly  secured  in  English  Harbor,  was  driven 
up  into  six  feet  water ;  her  usual  draft  being  seventeen  feet. 

It  may,  perhaps  be  consoling  to  our  lady-readers  to  be  inform 
ed  that  the  wedding  to  which  allusion  is  made  at  the  commence 
ment  of  this  narrative,  took  place  a  few  days  after,  as  soon  as 
the  roads  could  be  cleared  of  the  numerous  and  heavy  masses  of 
wreck,  blown  on  them  by  this  fearful  hurricane. 

It  is  believed  that  the  happy  couple  are  still  "  a  happy  couple," 
with  numerous  children,  living  in  affluence  at  St.  John's,  An 
tigua. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  "FLAME.' 


CHAPTER   I. 

Port  Royal  Harbor.  Jamaica — The  Palisades — Exploits  of  a  Guard-fish — 
Chasing  a  Sun-fish — Prodigious  Strength  of  this  Creature — Ferocity  of 
a  Shark,  and  Death  of  his  Victim — An  extempore  Steam-bath — Convoy 
Signal  for  Chagres — Weighing  the  Anchor — A  mysterious  Impediment — 
An  old  Tar's  Explanation — The  Discovery — Dolly  Johnson,  the  Negro 
Bum-boat  Woman — Premonition — Dolly's  critical  Situation — Deluging 
Rain — The  Chagres  River — Perpetual  Rain — Gigantic  Lizards — Town 
of  Chagres — Exploring  Party — Balboa's  first  View  of  the  South  Seas — 
Modern  Improvement  in  the  Airiness  of  Ships. 

ON  the  10th  of  April,  18 — ,  H.M.S.  "Flame"  was  lying  in 
Port  Royal  Harbor,  Jamaica.  The  awning  had  just  been  spread, 
and  the  recently- washed  decks,  even  at  the  early  hour  of  7-30 
A.M.,  were  perfectly  dry  and  even  hot  under  the  scorching  and 
nearly  vertical  sun.  The  Mid.  of  the  morning  watch,  feeling 
exhausted  with  his  exertions  (since  4  A.M.)  in  holy-stoning  the 
decks,  was  too  glad  to  pipe  the  ship's  company  to  breakfast,  and 
get  a  little  rest.  Seating  himself  in  the  gangway,  he  looked 
anxiously  to  the  eastward,  in  eager  expectation  of  the  sea-breeze. 

Vain  were  his  longings.  The  w^hole  surface  of  the  sea,  as  far 
as  eye  could  reach,  was  like  a  mirror.  From  the  burial-ground, 
called  "  The  Palisades"  (a  spot  justly  dreaded  by  all  whites  as 
being  the  receptacle  of  victims  of  the  yellow  fever),  a  transparent 
vapor  arose,  flickering  a  few  feet  above  the  surface  :  this  wras 
apparently  an  evaporation  from  the  numerous  bodies  there  de 
posited — a  most  sickening  and  horrible  exhalation. 


200  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

Through  this  haze,  which  trembled  and  vibrated  as  it  hung 
over  the  ground,  the  diminutive  islets,  guarding  the  entrance  to 
Port  Royal,  appeared  to  be  agitated  into  sandy  wavelets.  So 
strange  a  contrast  to  the  perfect  repose  of  the  ocean,  presented  an 
effect  which,  once  beheld,  can  never  be  forgotten.  It  suggested 
to  the  imagination,  a  group  of  unquiet  spirits  transformed  into 
islets,  and  imprisoned  in  a  sea  of  rnolten  brass.  Not  a  sound 
was  to  be  heard.  Even  insect  life,  usually  so  brisk  and  active 
in  tropical  climates,  appeared  to  have  withdrawn  from  the  intol 
erable  and  unmitigated  solar  heat.  Every  thing  in  animated  na 
ture  was  unwilling,  if  not  unable,  to  appear  until  a  cooling  breeze 
should  refresh  the  air  and  abate  the  tyranny  of  a  cloudless  sun. 

In  the  narrow  shade  caused  by  the  hull  and  awning  of  the 
vessel,  a  numerous  shoal  of  small  fish  had  taken  refuge.  Clus 
tering  closely  to  the  coppered  side,  they  appeared  to  fancy  them 
selves  in  perfect  security.  Our  Mid.,  a  lover  of  natural  history, 
watched  them  with  interest,  arid  wondered  at  their  boldness. 
Suddenly,  he  was  startled  by  a  splash.  A  guard-fish,  four  feet 
long,  had  sprung  a  distance  of  at  least  twenty  feet,  and,  with  un 
erring  aim,  seized  a  victim.  This  was  frequently  repeated  without 
a  single  failure.  If  human  dexterity  may  vaunt  its  frequent 
successes,  instinct  can  truly  boast  that  it  never  fails. 

The  strength  of  some,  and  the  ferocity  of  other  members  of  the 
finny  tribe  frequenting  the  coast  of  Jamaica  are  almost  beyond 
belief.  A  few  remarkable  instances  fell  under  the  author's  ob 
servation,  and  may  be  considered  worthy  of  note.  A  gentleman, 
famous  for  his  exploits  among  the  fish  of  these  waters,  was  taking 
a  cruise  in  his  little  yacht  of  seven  tons.  While  sailing  about 
the  spacious  harbor  of  Port  Royal,  his  attention  was  attracted  by 
a  large  substance  floating  and  slowly  revolving  like  the  motion  of 
a  wheel. 

"Hallo!"  exclaimed  he,  "that  answers  to  the  description  1 
have  read  of  a  sun-fish.  Here's  at  him." 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  201 

As  the  little  vessel  approached  the  huge  creature,  a  man  was 
stationed  at  the  boltsprit  end,  poising  a  harpoon.  The  yacht 
soon  lufled  up,  head  to  wind.  Bringing  the  boltsprit  gently  over 
the  unconscious  sea-monster,  a  splashing  commotion  in  the  water 
proved,  plainly  enough,  that  the  harpoon  had  been  driven  well 
home. 

It  might  be  supposed  that  victory  was  now  achieved  :  no  such 
thing.  To  reckon  without  one's  host,  has,  time  immemorial, 
been  denounced  as  egregious  folly  ;  and,  on  the  present  occasion, 
"  the  host"  strongly  differed  in  his  reckoning  from  the  guest  who 
would  fain,  like  Paul  Pry,  have  intruded  on  him.  If  it  might  be 
permitted,  for  only  a  single  moment,  to  compare  a  specimen  of 
Nature's  most  uncouth  productions  with  another  wrhich  is  marked 
by  consummate  perfection  and  loveliness,  one  might  say  that  this 
ill-favored  creature,  like  the  adored  Celia  of  the  poet, 

"  Was  coy,  and  hard  to  win." 

Indignant  at  the  mere  idea  of  captivity,  the  sun-fish  immedi 
ately  made  for  the  sea,  choosing  the  deepest  channel,  and  towed 
the  little  craft  rapidly  after  him.  Sails  were  promptly  taken  in ; 
and  the  barb-harnessed  fish  was  left  to  his  own  devices.  The 
rate  at  which  he  towed  the  boat  was  pleasant  enough,  and,  in 
deed,  very  exhilarating  as  long  as  his  efforts  were  confined  to  the 
harbor.  When,  however,  it  appeared  that  the  open  sea  was  the 
creature's  object,  the  affair  assumed  a  different  aspect.  The 
vessel  contained  but  little  water  ;  hardly  any  provisions.  Still, 
away  she  went  from  the  land  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour, 
without  the  assistance  of  a  stitch  of  canvas  ! 

"  Let  us  haul  up  by  the  harpoon  line,  and  kill  the  beggar  with 
a  lance,"  angrily  exclaimed  the  owner.  "  I  never  had  the  luck 
to  bag  a  sun-fish  before."* 

*  "The  sun-fish  (Orthagoriscus),"  say  the  naturalists,  "grows  to  an 
immense  size,  sometimes  attaining  the  diameter  of  eight  feet." 

!* 


202  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

Accordingly,  all  hands  (a  scanty  crew,  unfortunately,)  clapped 
on,  and  tried  hard  to  haul  the  vessel  up  alongside  the  fish.  But 
their  best  efforts  were  of  no  avail,  their  strength  being  unequal  to 
the  task.  Still  onward  went  the  monster  with  unabated  speed  ! 
At  length,  the  land  growing  dim  and  distant,  our  adventurers 
had  no  alternative  but  to  cut  the  tow-rope  and  free  themselves, 
after  being  towed  nearly  twenty  miles. 

The  prodigious  strength  evinced  by  this  sun-fish,  if  sun-fish  it 
was,  in  tugging  the  yacht  so  far  to  sea,  proves  its  size  to  have 
been  far  greater  than  is  generally  imagined  ;  and  may  afford 
some  approach  to  an  explanation  of  the  supposed  fabulous  kraken 
of  the  Scandinavian  seas. 

During  our  stay  in  Port  Royal  harbor,  we  had  fearful  evidence 
of  the  ferocity  of  the  shark,  in  an  incident  which  occurred  the  day 
before  the  brig  sailed  for  Chagres.  A  sergeant  of  the  army,  his 
trowsers  tucked  up  above  his  knees,  had  been  employed  washing 
clothes.  As  the  guard-house,  where  his  duty  called  him,  was 
close  to  the  point  leading  into  the  harbor,  he  naturally  walked 
on  the  shallow  tongue  of  the  point  to  rinse  the  soap-suds  from  his 
bare  legs. 

While  engaged  in  his  ablutions,  a  shark  seized  him  by  the 
calf  of  his  leg,  and  tried  to  drag  him  into  deep  water.  His 
fearful  screams  speedily  brought  his  comrades  to  the  rescue,  but 
they  were  only  just  in  time  to  catch  him  by  the  hand,  as  he 
was  disappearing  under  water,  and  drag  him  toward  the  beach. 
Even  then,  the  shark  fought  hard  for  his  victim.  The  taste  of 
human  blood  seemed  to  madden  his  ravenous  nature  into  desper 
ation;  and  for  a  short  time,  it  was  doubtful  if  the  "Vampire  of 
the  sea"  would  not  have  been  drawn  forth  from  his  element, 
hanging  to  his  victim's  leg.  The  horror  of  the  spectators  was 
further  excited  by  the  appearance  of  numerous  other  sharks 
closing  in  from  all  quarters,  and  trying  to  force  themselves 
alongside  their  too  successful  kindred  murderer. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  203 


At  length,  after  a  harrowing  struggle,  the  bleeding  and  man 
gled  man  was  torn  from  the  jaws  of  the  shark,  and  laid  gently 
on  the  beach. 

Alas,  it  was  evident  that  life  was  ebbing  fast  away.  The  poor 
fellow  had  received  two  awful  wounds.  From  the  calf  of  the 
leg,  where  he  was  first  seized  and  held  with  the  tenacity  of  a 
bull-dog,  the  flesh  was  completely  torn  off;  but  the  fatal  wound 
was  in  the  thigh,  which,  presenting  a  huge  gap  in  the  fleshy  part, 
showed  plainly  that  the  femoral  artery  had  been  divided.  Af 
fectionately  shaded  from  the  blazing  sun  by  his  comrades,  the 
sufferer  gasped  heavily  once  or  twice,  and  then  all  was  over. 
The  general  supposition  was  that,  while  one  shark  held  him  by 
the  lower  part  of  the  leg,  another  gave  the  fatal  bite. 

This  shocking  occurrence  sent  the  Mids.  (for  once  serious  and 
reflective)  off  to  their  brig.  Many  a  good  resolution  was  made 
as  they  turned  into  their  hammocks. 

The  following  morning  at  8  A.M.  a  gun  was  fired  and  the  con 
voy-flag  hoisted  for  Chagres.  So  unusually  profound,  however, 
was  the  calm,  that  the  flag  drooped  without  the  slightest  move 
ment,  and  the  smoke  hung  like  a  shroud  over  the  vessel ;  fitting 
symbols  for  so  deadly  a  place.  Our  Mid.  was  shortly  relieved 
from  his  morning  watch,  and  gladly  descended  to  breakfast. 

In  a  cabin  only  eight  feet  by  six,  and  destitute  of  ventilation, 
were  assembled  a  jolly  crew  of  ten  young  fellows.  The  place 
was  a  sort  of  extempore  steam-bath,  and  its  effects  on  the  occu 
pants  may  easily  be  imagined.  To  make  matters  worse,  the 
ship's  allowance  of  scalding  tea  for  breakfast,  was  produced  in 
a  large  tea-pot,  and  carefully  stowed  in  the  centre  of  a  small  table, 
as  if  to  insure  an  impartial  distribution  of  its  steam.  The  ther 
mometer  was  at  108  ! 

"  Well,  old  fellow,"  said  one  of  the  party,  "  what  was  the  rause 
of  that  bark  on  deck  just  now  ?" 

"  Only  that  horrid  convoy  signal  for  Chagres,"  replied  our  mid- 


204  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

shipman.  "What  a  dreadful  place  it  is:  This  is  our  fourth 
trip  running.  We  desei've  to  be  sickly.  Confound  it !" 

In  order  to  take  advantage  of  the  land-breeze,  every  prepara 
tion  was  now  made  for  sailing.  The  convoy  consisted  only  of 
one  schooner.  She  parted  company  willfully  the  first  night,  and 
was  never  seen  afterward. 

Fragrant  arid  delicious,  though  laden  with  malaria  and  death, 
were  the  light  land-breezes  from  the  north.  Sweeping  over 
the  swamps  on  which  Fort  Augusta  wras  situated,  they  fanned 
with  treacherous  dalliance  the  heated  frames  of  the  crew  labor 
ing  at  the  capstan. 

"  Cheerly,  cheerly,  men  !"  was  the  animating  cry  of  the  officer 
in  command,  as  the  massive  links  of  the  chain-cable  came  slowly, 
as  if  with  obstinate  reluctance,  through  the  hawse-hole. 

"  Up  with  the  anchor,  lads ;  toss  him  up  to  the  bow  !"  vocif 
erated  the  officer. 

Merrily  revolved  the  capstan-wheel,  while  muscles  and  sinews 
were  energetically  strained  to  keep  time  to  a  lively  tune  from  the 
fife.  A  hundred  men  concentrated  their  powers  to  weigh  the 
anchor.  Gay  was  their  measured  tramp,  and  irresistible  ap 
peared  their  strength  as  they  rapidly  circumambulated  the  great 
mechanical  purchase.  Suddenly  however,  the  movement  was 
stopped. 

"  Heave  lads,  heave  together;  tear  him  out  of  the  ground  !" 
exclaimed  the  officer. 

With  a  simultaneous  effort,  every  man  exerted  himself  to  the 
utmost  :  another  heave,  and  yet  another.  All  was  in  vain. 
The  anchor  appeared  to  be  enchanted.  A  double  purchase  was 
then  applied,  and  the  mechanical  skill  of  the  vessel  tried  to  the 
utmost.  It  was  no  use.  The  men  might  as  well  have  endeav 
ored  to  uproot  Olympus. 

As  it  was  now  clear  that  some  uncommon  cause  prevented 
the  purchase  of  the  anchor,  a  requisition  was  dispatched  to  the 


CEU1SE  OF  THE  FLAME.  205 


dockyard  for  assistance,  and  the  ship's  company  were  sent  to 
breakfast.  Numerous  were  the  surmises  on  this  singular  event. 
It  was  well  known  that  the  bottom  of  Port  Royal  harbor  was 
composed  of  black  mud,  which,  assuredly,  could  not  present  any 
formidable  resistance.  What  could  be  the  mysterious  cause  ? 

At  length,  an  old  tar,  remarkable  for  taciturnity  and  good  con 
duct  as  a  seaman,  held  forth  as  follows : 

"  /  knows  all  about  it.  My  father  told  me  as  how  that  his 
father  told  he,  that  when  the  great  earthquake  come  to  pass  in 
this  here  place  in  1692,  he  warn't  weaned  ;  in  which  regard,  his 
mother,  babby  in  arms,  takes  and  stows  herself  away  in  church 
just  as  the  houses  begins  to  topple.  People  thinks,  in  these  parts, 
that  the  churches  is  safe,  never  mind  what's  a-happening  out 
side.  But  this  time  it  was  no  go,  you  see  ;  'cause  just  after  she 
an*:  .he  young  'uri  gets  inside  quite  safe,  down  goes  the  town, 
church  and  all,  right  into  the  sea.  Well,  this,  you  know,  begins 
to  look  rather  serious  !  but  luck's  all  in  this  world,  and,  somehow 
or  the  t'other,  the  babby  was  saved.  You  may  laugh,  if  you  like. 
Why,  if  what  I  am  a-telling  of  you  warn't  true,  how  could  I  be 
here  ?  I  should  like  to  know  that,  'specially  as  that  poor,  ten 
der,  innocent  babby  was  my  old  grandfather.  Now,  rny  bo's,  I'm 
quite  sure  that  our  killick^  is  hooked  under  the  dientical  church- 
porch  which  it  was  the  place  my  great-grandmother  goes  into. 
And  that's  the  reason  we  can't  get  her  out  of  the  ground.  What 
do  you  grin  at,  you  lubbers  ?  In  course,  I  means  the  killick,  and 
not  my  great-grandmother.  You  may  heave  at  her  as  long  as 
you  like,  but  she'll  never  come  up  no  more.f" 

Shortly  after,  the  "  Lump,"  or  dock-yard  lighter,  came  along 
side,  and  seized  hold  of  the  brig's  chain  with  its  iron  claws. 

*  Anchor. 

t  This  singular  and  almost  incredible  oral  testimony  corroborates,  in 
a  striking  manner,  the  written  accounts  of  the  great  earthquake  at  Port 
Royal,  and  would  seem  to  be  warranted  by  the  known  veracity  and  steadi 
ness  of  the  old  sailor,  a  man  of  great  age. 


206  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

Still,  for  a  considerable  time,  the  anchor  remained  immovable  ; 
and  the  belief  of  all  on  board  in  the  positive  assertion  of  the 
old  tar  was  confirmed.  The  anchor  must  have  got  foul  of  the 
church,  there  could  be  no  doubt  of  it.  Horrible  sacrilege  !  But 
whether  the  church  was  most  in  danger,  or  the  killick,  was  a 
matter  of  speculation,  which  probably  gave  rise  to  a  warm  con 
troversy. 

At  last,  the  anchor  gradually  yielded  to  the  vast  power  of  the 
mooring  lighter,  and  came  slowly  up  to  the  bows. 

A  singular  spectacle  now  presented  itself.  Three  large  an 
chors  were  entwined,  as  it  were,  in  each  other's  embraces.  This, 
at  any  rate,  looked  friendly.  One  of  them  was  partly  fused  as 
if  from  the  action  of  fire. 

So  singular  a  discovery  caused  much  interest  and  speculation 
at  the  time.  The  old  archives  of  the  dock-yard  were  industri 
ously  inspected  ;  but  nothing  was  ascertained  worthy  of  note 
from  any  credible  authority.  'A  story,  nevertheless,  became  cur 
rent  that  the  anchors  were  part  of  the  remnant  of  a  prize 
captured  by  Benbow,  and  accidentally  burnt. 

As  the  sea-breeze  had  now  set  .in  furiously,  the  departure  of 
the  vessel  was  put  off  till  the  following  day.  When,  however, 
the  morning  dawned,  and  the  expected  land-wind  failed  to  arrive, 
the  brig,  anxious  to  get  away,  shipped  her  sweeps  (eighteen  long 
oars,  five  men  to  each),  and  pulled  merrily  through  the  southern 
passage. 

Perched  high  on  her  wares,  Dolly  Johnson,  the  famous  bum- 
boat  woman,  accompanied  the  vessel,  being  towed  alongside. 
This  black  Amazon  gloried  in  possession  of  a  canoe  forty  feet 
long,  and  barely  two  wide.  Ranged  round  her  were  calabashes 
filled  with  eggs,  yams,  fried  fish,  and  tropical  vegetables,  in 
cluding  pines,  avocado-pears,  and  ochres. 

"  Tank  heben,  my  sweet  son,"  exclaimed  Dolly  to  the  mid 
shipman  of  the  watch,  "  no  nasty  doctor"  (a  particular  sea- 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  207 

breeze  so  called)  "  come  dis  morning  to  mash  up  poor  nigger 
'omen  canoe." 

"  Have  a  care  Dolly,  my  dear,"  replied  the  youngster,  "  have 
a  care  ;  the  doctor  is  coming  down  sharp.  Remember  the 
nigger  song: 

'  0  Miss  Rosee,  hab  a  care  of  de  Jumbo, 
Him  prickee  de  conscience  like  jigger  in  um  bumbo.'  " 

"What  for  you  speak  like  dat  to  rne,  bucra  ?"  interrogated 
Dolly.  "  You  robber,  teaf,  and  hangman  too." 

Now,  although  poor  Dolly  was  very  irate  at  the  youngster's 
banter,  she  had  her  weather-eye  wide  open,  and  was  probably 
conscious  of  a  certain  change  in  the  air  caused  by  the  approach 
ing  sea-breeze.  This  premonition  of  the  coming  wind  is  not 
perceptible  except  by  the  natives,  or  by  those  who  have  long 
resided  in  the  West  Indies.  The  author  was  much  surprised  at 
an  instance  of  this  kind  while  sitting  after  breakfast  one  morning 
and  conversing  with  an  invalid  lady  who  had  lived  many  years 
in  tropical  islands.  In  the  midst  of  the  discourse,  she  suddenly 
started  from  the  sofa,  and  exclaimed  : 

"  Ha,  it  is  coming  !" 

"  And  pray,"  answered  her  companion,  "  ivhat  may  be  com 
ing?" 

"  Why,  the  sea-breeze,  to  be  sure  ;  can't  you  feel  it  ?" 

"  Feel  it !"  echoed  he  ;  "why,  the  thermometer  is  above  100. 
My  clothes  cling  to  my  frame  as  if  they  would  stifle  me.  I 
seern  to  sit  in  an  oven.  Depend  on  it,  there  is  not  the  slightest 
symptom  of  the  trade- wind." 

In  a  few  minutes,  however,  the  refreshing  rush  of  pure  air  was 
evident  enough  :  there  was  no  mistaking  it. 

To  return  to  the  brig : — every  one  on  board  was,  in  a  short 
time,  aware  of  the  proximity  of  the  breeze,  symptoms  of  which 
grew  stronger  and  stronger  every  minute. 


208  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

"  Let  go  de  tow-rope,  you  cussed  nigger  !"  exclaimed  Dolly  to 
a  negro  who  was  assisting  her  in  navigating  the  canoe,  and  who 
was  only  a  shade  or  two  less  black  than  herself.  "  Don't  you 
see  de  man-o'-war  bucra  makee  de  sail !" 

This  was  true  enough ;  all  hands  in  the  brig  were  employed  in 
preparing  to  spread  the  canvas.  In  a  few  minutes,  the  sails 
were  loosed  and  set,  and  the  yards  braced  sharp  up  on  port  tack. 
Before  poor  Dolly's  boat  could  be  cleared  from  the  ship's  side, 
the  breeze,  in  a  heavy  squall,  struck  the  vessel.  So  strong  and 
sudden  was  the  wind,  that,  in  spite  of  letting  fly  every  thing, 
the  brig  heeled  so  much  that  the  lee-port  sills  were  under  water. 

Impelled  by  the  sudden  gale,  the  vessel  dashed  madly  onward. 
Alas  for  poor  Dolly  !  Her  "  cussed  nigger,"  an  infirm  old  man, 
had  failed  to  loose  the  long  and  narrow  canoe  from  the  brig's 
side.  It  was,  indeed,  a  frightful  thing  to  see  this  cockle-shell 
dragged  through  the  water  with  such  dangerous  speed  ;  and  to 
aggravate  the  peril,  the  canoe  had  been  fastened  to  the  lowest  of 
the  gangway  side-steps,  now  under  water  from  the  vessel's  in 
clination.  Aid  from  the  ship  was,  for  the  moment  impossible  ; 
and  it  appeared  inevitable  that  the  unlucky  negress  would  be 
towed  under  water.  At  this  critical  moment,  Dolly  sprang  for 
ward,  knocked  her  lubberly  nigger  off  his  seat,  and  severed 
the  distended  tow-rope  with  a  single  cut  of  her  knife.  This 
saved  them  both. 

The  last  thing  seen  of  them,  as  the  vessel  bore  rapidly  away 
along  the  coast  of  Jamaica  for  her  destination,  was  Dolly  with 
one  hand  steering  her  canoe,  now  under  a  snug  lug-sail,  and 
heartily  thrashing  her  "  cussed  nigger"  with  the  other. 

On  went  the  brig,  studding-sails  low  and  aloft.  Gradually, 
the  wind  felt  lighter  as  she  approached  the  American  continent, 
and  at  length,  when  just  in  sight  of  the  high  land  of  Porto  Bello, 
subsided  to  a  mere  whisper.  This  lull  was  succeeded  by  rain 
which,  during  twelve  hours,  poured  down  without  intermission. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  209 

Apparently,  the  deluge  had  returned,  so  overwhelming  were  the 
torrents.  Even  the  boats  at  the  davits,  with  plugs  withdrawn, 
were  overflowing.  A  light  air  at  length  drew  the  brig  along  the 
land,  and  she  anchored  at  Chagres. 

The  whole  country,  where  it  could  be  seen,  was  covered  with 
a  dense  forest  of  most  luxuriant  foliage  ;  but  the  view  was  often 
concealed  by  opaque  vapors  which  clung  closely  to  the  earth. 
Even  a  vertical  sun  was  not  powerful  enough  to  clear  away  this 
dismal  pall.  Still,  in  spite  of  such  repulsive  appearances,  there 
was  something  indescribably  grand  in  that  vast  solitude.  The 
current  of  the  Chagre  river  rushing  into  the  sea,  formed  a  narrow 
line  of  yellow,  which,  like  a  serpent,  trailed  its  hideous  and  ill- 
omened  length,  writhing  with  numerous  inter  volutions  to  the 
east  or  west  along  the  coast,  as  guided  and  controlled  by  the 
tides  and  currents. 

From  the  excessive  dampness  caused  by  almost  perpetual 
rains,  and  the  fact  of  the  isothermal  line  of  equatorial  heat 
passing  very  near  this  place,  the  principle  of  vegetation  is  perhaps 
more  powerfully  developed  here  than  in  any  other  part  of  the 
globe.  The  vessel  was  now  in  the  zone  of  the  constant  precipi 
tation  of  rain.  Large  bushes  (twelve  feet  high)  of  the  sensitive 
tribe  began  to  manifest  consciousness  of  an  advancing  footstep, 
though  at  five  yards'  distance.  When  closely  approached,  they 
closed  their  leaves  entirely  without  actual  contact. 

Perhaps  some  explanation  of  the  continuous  rains  prevailing 
in  this  place  may  be  found  in  the  remarkable  fact  of  certain 
intervals  that  occur  in  the  chain  of  the  Cordilleras  or  Andes, 
where  low  and  level  land  interrupts  the  usual  mountain  ridge — 
the  "  back  bone,"  as  it  has  been  called  of  America. 

No  person  who  studies  physical  geography  can  help  being 
deeply  interested  by  the  singular  conformation  of  the  land  at  this 
precise  spot.  It  is  as  if  nature  had  anticipated  the  wants  of 
human  beings,  and  fashioned  mother  earth  to  meet  the  require- 


210  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

merits  of  an  advanced  age.  At  any  rate,  the  singular  adaptation 
of  ground  about  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  for  a  canal  or  railroad  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean  is  a  great  and  remarkable  fact. 

In  contrast,  as  it  were,  to  the  prodigious  quantity  of  rain  that 
falls  here,  a  singular  phenomenon  happens  in  the  height  of  the 
rainy  season,  of  which  it  is  impossible  to  offer  any  satisfactory 
explanation.  About  the  20th  of  June,  the  rain  suddenly  ceases, 
and  the  sun  shines  out  during  five  or  six  days  with  dazzling 
brightness.  No  instance  is  known  of  irregularity  in  this  interrup 
tion  of  the  season's  course. 

The  mails  having  been  carefully  prepared,  a  large  party  of 
pleasure-seekers,  besides  the  officer  in  charge,  proceeded  in  the 
largest  boat  to  examine  the  country.  After  a  long  pull,  they 
arrived  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  Passing  close  to  the  rocks 
on  the  left,  on  which  the  Morro,  or  castle,  of  Chagres,  is  built, 
they  were  much  interested  by  perceiving  numerous  guanas 
(lizards  of  gigantic  dimensions).  These  hideous  reptiles  were 
creeping  slowly  among  the  bushes  and  small  trees  that  clung  to 
the  slimy,  unwholesome-looking  rocks. 

On  rounding  the  point,  the  town  of  Chagres  appeared,  and 
miserably  disappointed  expectation.  It  was  situated  on  a  cleared 
space  of  perhaps  one  hundred  acres,  and  consisted  of  a  few  houses 
composed  of  reeds  or  wood,  which  presented  a  scattered  and 
squalid  appearance.  Having  landed,  the  party  was  encountered 
by  three  soldiers — the  custom-house  guard.  Poor  wretches ! 
Blighted  by  the  filthy  climate,  they  were  the  type  of  malaria. 
Their  heads  were  tightly  bound  with  Madras  kerchiefs,  and  they 
were  destitute  of  shoes  or  stockings.  Instead  of  the  independent 
and  saucy  bearing  of  the  revenue  guardians  of  this  country,  they 
besfged,  in  whining  accents,  for  tobacco. 

As  the  party  proceeded  on  their  expedition,  they  came  upon 
dense  woods  of  the  rankest  vegetation.  These  interminable 
forests  surrounded  the  plain  on  which  stood  the  town  of  Chagres. 


CRUISE  OF  THE   FLAME.  211 

Several  narrow  alleys  were  cut  through  the  tangled  overgrowth, 
barely  sufficient  for  men  on  foot  to  pass  in  Indian  file.  The 
dense  jungle,  saturated  with  moisture,  cast  forth  an  offensive 
vapor.  With  the  lightest  possible  clothing,  a  serious  oppression 
was  experienced,  and  the  weight  even  of  a  fowling-piece  was  a 
severe  labor.  Having  wandered  some  hours  in  pursuit  of  game, 
the  party  was  glad  to  return  to  the  town,  being  quite  exhausted 
and  not  having  had  a  single  shot. 

After  some  rest,  and  a  substantial  luncheon,  they  proceeded  to 
examine  the  castle  of  Chagres.  This  fortress  was  built  by  Spain, 
after  Admiral  Vernon's  capture  of  Porto  Bello  in  1739,  and 
showed  evident  signs  of  lavish  expense.  Before  the  capture,  the 
fortress  was  insignificant.  The  Spaniards  relied,  as  Drake  ex 
presses  it,  "  upon  the  attachment  of  the  natives,  the  strength  of 
the  country,  the  excessive  unhealthiness  of  the  climate,  and  its 
abundant  fruits  being  very  dangerous  to  be  eaten  for  breeding  of 
diseases."  The  great  progress  of  events,  however,  which  wrested 
these  countries  from  the  sway  of  Spain,  entirely  destroyed  the  im 
portance  of  this  stronghold,  and  the  huge  and  massive  fortress 
was  gradually  wasting  away  under  the  destructive  influence  of 
rank  and  climbing  vegetation.  What  a  satire  on  the  extrava 
gances  of  the  old  governments  of  Europe  !  And  now  behold  the 
change  !  By  a  recent  treaty  between  the  great  powers  of  the 
world,  namely,  England,  France,  and  America,  all  this  region — 
the  region  of  the  projected  communication  between  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  Oceans — is  forever  a  neutral  ground,  open  to  the 
whole  globe.  Well  may  humanity  be  congratulated  on  this 
benign  and  salutary  change  in  the  spirit  of  the  times. 

Balboa  describes  enthusiastically  his  first  view  of  the  South 
Seas.  Departing  from  Chagres  with  Indian  guides  (the  Cim- 
marons),  he  thus  describes  the  success  of  his  enterprise. 

"  When,"  says  he,  "  they  pointed  out  the  height  from  which  I 
might  see  the  other  sea,  so  long  looked  for,  and  never  seen  before 


212  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

of  any  man  coming  out  of  our  world,  approaching  to  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  I  commanded  my  men  to  stay,  and  went  alone  to 
the  summit  as  if  to  take  the  first  possession  thereof ;  where  fall 
ing  prostrate  upon  the  ground  and  raising  myself  again  upon  my 
knees,  lifting  up  my  eyes  and  hands  toward  Heaven,  and  direct 
ing  my  face  toward  the  new-found  South  Sea,  I  poured  forth  my 
humble  and  devout  prayers  before  Almighty  God,  as  a  spiritual 
sacrifice,  with  thanksgiving  that  to  me  was  reserved  this  dis 
covery."  When  he  had  said  these  words,  he  commanded  his  men 
to  raise  certain  heaps  of  stones,  instead  of  altars,  in  token  of  pos 
session. 

What  a  magnificent  moment  must  this  have  been  for  the  old 
Spanish  adventurer !  and  with  what  sublime  power  and  simpli 
city  has  he  described  it. 

After  a  hasty  survey  of  the  castle,  the  party  were  glad  to  re 
turn  to  their  vessel  in  the  offing.  Having  been  drenched  with, 
continual  rain,  the  miserable  and  scanty  accommodations  of  a 
small,  old-fashioned  brig  were  hailed  with  delight. 

The  wonderful  improvement  in  the  airiness  of  ships,  and  in 
the  conveniences  and  comforts  allotted,  in  the  modern  system  of 
naval  architecture,  to  seamen  of  all  grades,  is  very  conducive  to 
discipline  and  health.  For  this  essential  advantage,  the  Royal 
Navy  is  undoubtedly  indebted,  in  a  great  measure  to  Sir  William 
Syrnonds. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Want  of  Ventilation  in  the  Brig — Myriads  of  Insects — Force  of  Habit — 
A  living  Snow-storm — Navy  Bay — A  Mangrove  Swamp — Corallines  and 
Stinging  Coral — Cocoa-nut  Trees — Effect  on  the  Ship's  Company  of 
the  excessive  Rains — Violent  Thunder-storm — Fishing  Party — A  dense 
Jungle — Adventures  of  a  solitary  Midshipman  in  a  tropical  Forest — 
Myriad  Army  of  Ants — The  Gekko — Huge  Snake — -An  Alarm — Fugi 
tive  Apes — A  wild  Feast — The  Nautilus — Pteturn  to  Chagres  for  the 
Mails — A  Spanish  Lady  and  her  Daughter  as  Passengers — The  Lady's 
Canoe  and  Crew — Projected  Theft  audits  Detection — The  Yellow  Fever 
on  Board — Prepare  for  a  Trip  to  Halifax — Effect  on  the  Crew  of  Change 
of  Climate — Approach  to  the  stormy  Region  of  the  Gulf-stream. — a 
Hurricane-squall — A  Night  Storm — Jollity  in  the  Midshipmen's  Berth. 

THE  brig1,  whose  cruise  we  have  been  contemplating,  was  so 
confined  below,  being  barely  five  feet  between  decks,  that  the 
air  was  extremely  vitiated.  This  will  cause  no  astonishment 
when  it  is  considered  that  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  human 
beings  were  stowed  away  in  her.  No  possible  means  of  ventila 
tion  could  be  adopted  except  by  hatchways.  So  oppressive  an 
atmosphere  brought  into  life  myriads  of  insects.  The  beams 
overhead  and  bulkheads  were  infested  by  a  layer  of  cockroaches, 
interspersed,  by  way  of  variety,  with  various  other  creeping 
abominations.  If  a  glass  containing  liquid  of  any  kind,  was  left 
but  for  a  moment,  the  surface  was  thickly  coated  with  struggling 
vermin.  A  favorite  amusement  in  the  Mids.'  berth,  was  to  pour 
gome  rum  in  a  soup-plate,  set  it  on  fire,  and  pass  it  slowly  along 
the  beams  arid  deck  overhead.  In  a  short  time,  these  passes 
were  rewarded  with  a  rich  harvest  of  cockroaches.  So  loathsome 


214  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

did  this  appear  to  strangers,  who  had  never  before  seen  any  ap 
proach  to  a  resemblance  of  one  of  the  Egyptian  plagues,  that 
scarcely  a  single  visitor  could  be  persuaded  to  remain  on  board. 
The  Mids.,  however,  were  so  accustomed  to  their  insect-guests, 
that,  as  expressed  by  one  of  the  party,  "  We  should  feel  quite  lost 
without  them." 

Such  is  the  force  of  habit  and  the  love  of  company. 

The  following  morning,  still  in  pouring  rain,  the  vessel  weighed 
and  proceeded  to  Navy  Bay,  there  to  await  the  return  mail  from 
the  Pacific  for  Jamaica  and  England.  A  light  air  filled  the 
sails,  and,  for  two  hours,  the  sun  shone  forth  with  piercing  rays. 
The  distance  we  had  to  run,  about  fifteen  miles,  was  achieved  in 
three  hours.  During  the  whole  of  this  passage,  the  air  was 
densely  crowded  with  white  butterflies,  driven  out  to  sea  by  the 
land  wind.  It  was  impossible  to  estimate  their  number,  as 
neither  one  extremity  nor  the  other  of  this  living  snow  storm 
could  be  traced.  So  remarkable  a  swarm  of  insects  gives  force 
to  the  assertion  of  a  celebrated  naturalist  who  says  that  "  if 
Nature  had  not  formed  numerous  and  powerful  checks  to  this 
insect,  its  increase,  in  three  years,  would  fill  the  world." 

Navy  Bay,  now  the  site  of  busy  preparation  for  the  Darien 
Railroad,  was  then  unblest  by  the  works  of  man.  From  Chagres 
on  the  east,  to  Porto  Bello  011  the  west,  not  a  single  human 
habitation  could  be  seen. 

The  vessel  had  anchored  a  short  distance  within  the  eastern 
arm  of  the  Bay,  in  close  vicinity  to  a  mangrove  swamp.  These 
singular  aquatic  forests  exhibit  an  apparent  anomaly  in  nature. 
The  tree  of  which  they  are  composed,  grows  to  the  height  of 
twenty-five  or  thirty  feet,  and  flourishes  chiefly  on  the  margin  of 
rivers  close  to  the  sea,  salt  water  being  necessary  for  its  nourish 
ment.  Many  lateral  branches  project  to  a  considerable  length 
from  all  sides  of  the  trunk.  These  are  thickly  covered  with 
leaves  of  dark  green.  At  a  certain  length,  the  weight  of  the 


CIIUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  215 

branch  causes  it  to  bend  downward,  when,  attracted  by  the 
water,  a  number  of  flexible  shoots  droop  down,  submerge  them 
selves,  and  take  root  in  the  mud.  Then,  rising  again,  they,  in 
their  turn,  throw  out  ramifications,  and  thus  extend  the  forest. 

The  interlacings  of  these  shoots  and  branches  form  a  coarse 
net-work  under  water,  of  wonderful  strength  and  durability. 
The  roots  are  covered  with  myriads  of  the  family  of  Crustacea 
and  mollusca.  These  again  attract  numerous  fish  to  prey  upon 
them,  forming  altogether  a  reticulated  marine-bower  of  surpass 
ing  interest  and  animation. 

It  is  scarcely  possible  to  behold  such  tangled,  exuberant,  and 
ever  re-producing  vegetation  as  this,  without  thinking  of  Milton's 
noble  description  of  that  multifarious  tree,  which 

"  In  Malabar  or  Decan  spreads  her  arms 
Branching  so  broad  and  long,  that  in  the  ground 
The  bended  twigs  take  root,  and  daughters  grow 
About  the  mother-tree,  a  pillar'd  shade 
High  over-arch'd,  and  echoing  walks  between  : 
There  oft  the  Indian  herdsman,  shunning  heat, 
Shelters  in  cool,  and  tends  his  pasturing  herds 
At  loop-holes  cut  through  thickest  shade.* 


*  Nothing  escapes  the  notice  of  wise  poets.  Milton  could  never  have 
seen  the  Indian  fig-tree  ;  but  he  found  an  account  of  it  in  a  botanical  book, 
and  then  gave  it  perennial  vitality  in  his  great  epic.  In  his  notes  to 
"Comus,"  Wharton,  referring  to  the  above  passage  from  "Paradise  Lost," 
tells  us  that  the  particulars  which  Milton  has  immortalized  in  his  glorious 
versification,  are  derived  from  "Gerard's  Herbal"  (edit.  1633).  "The 
ends  of  the  branches,"  says  Gerard,  speaking  of  the  arched  Indian  fig-tree, 
"hang  downe  and  touch  the  ground,  where  they  take  roote  and  growe  in 
such  sort  that  those  twigs  become  great  trees :  and  these  being  grown  up 
unto  the  like  greatnesse,  doe  cast  their  branches  or  twiggy  tendrels  into 
the  earth,  where  they  likewise  take  hold  and  roote  ;  by  means  whereof  it 
cometh  to  passe,  that  of  one  tree  is  made  a  great  wood  or  desert  of  trees, 
which  the  Indians  do  use  for  coverture  against  the  extreme  heate  of  the  sun. 
Some  likewise  use  them  for  pleasure,  cutting  downe  by  a  direct  line  a  long 


216  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

Corallines,  in  large  bunches  like  flowers,  and  of  fantastic 
shape,  flourished  in  the  vicinity.  These  corals  were  extracted 
from  the  bottom  by  lowering  a  swab,  the  long  tails  of  which  be 
came  entangled  among  the  delicate  branches,  and  brought  them 
up  in  triumph.  The  specimens  thus  procured,  contained  several 
species  of  the  stinging  coral,  which  furnished  much  amusement 
to  the  uninitiated  by  the  sharp  pain  inflicted  by  them  when  ap 
plied  to  the  tongue.  Thus,  it  would  appear  that  even  pain  is 
better  than  nothing.  A  sensation  must  be  had,  cost  what  it 
may. 

Beyond  this  swamp,  or  forest,  a  fringe  of  lofty  and  majestic 
cocoa-nut  trees,  bending  under  their  luscious  burden,  extended  to 
the  east.  Large  boat-loads  of  the  fragrant  nuts  were  brought  off, 
as  a  supposed  antiseptic,  for  the  benefit  of  the  crew.  The  use 
of  them,  however,  was  prejudicial,  instead  of  salutary  ;  and  the 
health  of  the  men  was  not  improved  until  they  got  clear  of  the 
West  Indies. 

The  excessive  rains  and  dampness  of  the  climate,  and  the  con 
sequent  inability  on  the  part  of  officers  to  give  active  occupation 
to  the  crew,  had  a  sensible  and  deteriorating  effect  on  the  ship's 
company.  It  was  generally  remarked  that  irritability  of  temper 
was  manifested  even  by  those  who  had  been  noted  for  equanimity. 
In  fact,  cheerfulness  had  vanished  under  the  influence  of  lassi 
tude  caused  by  this  filthy  climate.  In  place  of  the  usual  jollity 
in  a  man-of-war,  a  kind  of  superstitious  lethargy  appeared  to 

walks,  or  as  it  were  a  vault,  through  the  thickest  part,  from  which  also 
they  cut  certaine  loop-holes  or  windowes  in  some  places,  to  the  end  to  re 
ceive  thereby  the  fresh  cook  aire  that  entreth  thereat,  as  also  for  light  that 
they  may  see  their  cattell  that/<?eeJ  thereby,  &c.  From  which  vault  or  close 
tvalke  doth  rebound  an  admirable  echo  or  answering  voice.  The  first,  or 
mother,  of  this  wood,  is  hard  to  be  known  from  the  children." — It  will  be 
seen  from  this  quotation  that  the  great  poet  has  availed  himself  of  all  the 
prominent  words  of  the  old  herbalist ;  but  then  how  skillfully  has  he 
epitomized  the  description,  and  given  to  it  the  graces  of  resonant  verse. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  217 


have  obtruded  itself.  This  feeling  was  much  aggravated  by  two 
days'  incessant  down-pour.  The  hoods  over  the  hatchways  al 
though  well  calculated  to  keep  out  water,  were  equally  successful 
in  excluding  air. 

The  whole  of  a  particular  day  had  been  passed  in  idleness  and 
sleep  below.  It  can  therefore  be  no  matter  of  surprise  that  at 
11  o'clock,  P.M.,  a  sudden  and  violent  thunder-storm  should  find 
all  hands  wide  awake,  although  sweltering  in  their  hammocks 
and  vainly  courting  sleep.  During  about  fifty  minutes,  the 
terrific  roaring  of  thunder  shook  the  vessel  to  her  centre.  Vivid 
and  forked  lightning  pierced  the  very  seams  of  the  decks.  In 
the  momentary  lulls — lulls  of  most  painful  silence — suppressed 
groans,  as  if  of  terror  or  remorse,  were  slightly  audible.  Con 
science  plays  strange  tricks  with  us  all.  Sometimes  it  may 
happen  that  a  bad  man,  owing  to  an  exquisitely  healthy  phy 
sique,  may  possess  a  false  good  conscience — a  kind  of  aurora 
borealis,  which  is  but  a  mockery  of  the  genuine  dawn.  While, 
on  the  other  hand,  certain  it  is,  that  bodily  disturbance,  such, 
for  example,  as  an  attack  of  dyspepsia,  will  produce  a  false  bad 
conscience,  and  we  are  induced  to  mistake  for  a  weight  on  the 
mind,  that  which  in  reality  is  nothing  more  than  a  weight  on 
the  stomach. 

In  this  latter  predicament  let  us  hope  the  ship's  company 
were  placed  :  one  half  of  them  suffering  under  the  malady  of  the 
climate,  were  nervously  affected,  and  the  symptoms  spread  like 
an  epidemic  among  the  rest.  For  the  first  time  in  their  lives, 
the  blue-jackets  felt  sentimental,  remorseful,  and  afraid. 

As  the  bells  struck  eight,  or  midnight,  the  last  distant  rum 
bling  of  the  thunder  died  away,  and  was  succeeded  by  an  in 
tense  calm.  Suddenly  a  shrill,  strange  scream  smote  the  silence; 
it  was  repeated  again  and  again  ;  and  louder  and  more  frantic 
grew  the  outcries,  until  the  din  was  drowned  by  all  hands  rush 
ing  up  to  ascertain  the  cause,  when  it  was  discovered  that  a  favor- 

K 


218  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

ite  cat  in  her  nocturnal  rounds  had  fallen  overboard.  There  she 
was  clinging  to  the  ship's  side,  and  holding  on  with  her  claws 
stuck  in  between  the  upper  sheet  of  the  copper  sheathing  and  the 
wood-work.  On  lowering  the  bight  of  a  rope,  the  poor  animal 
immediately  put  her  fore-legs  in,  and  was  hauled  safely  on  board. 

This  little  incident  broke  the  spell. 

Parties  were  occasionally  sent  up  the  bay  to  explore,  or  to  pro 
cure  fish  and  game.  On  one  of  these  excursions,  they  proceeded 
to  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  a  small  rivulet  tempted  them  to 
land  and  haul  the  seine,  or  net.  So  great  was  the  quantity  of 
fish  taken,  that  it  was  considered  enough  to  supply  the  entire 
ship's  company.  A  large  fire  was  then  kindled,  and  while  some 
remained  to- prepare  a  savory  meal,  others,  well  armed,  advanced 
into  the  interior,  taking  advantage  of  the  rivulet's  bed,  which 
afforded  the  only  practicable  path  through  the  dense  jungle. 

After  penetrating  some  distance,  our  adventurers  felt  their 
curiosity  excited  by  the  prostrate  trunk  of  a  large  tree.  This 
gigantic  denizen  of  the  forest  had  fallen  across  the  bed  of  the 
rivulet,  forming  a  complete  bridge.  The  part  of  the  trunk  where 
it  had  been  severed,  appeared  as  though  gnawed  by  some  animal, 
marks  of  teeth  being  visible  all  round  the  base. 

Attracted  by  this  singular  circumstance,  the  party  stopped 
awhile  to  speculate  on  it.  Some  went  so  far  as  to  assert  that  it 
had  been  purposely  felled  by  the  instinct  of  wild  animals,  to 
assist  them  in  crossing  the  stream.  Others  ridiculed  this  opinion, 
and  declared  that  the  marks  of  teeth  were  caused  by  herds  of 
peccary,  a  kind  of  fierce,  small  pig,  prevalent  hereabouts'ln  large 
droves,  and  which  are  in  the  habit  of  whetting  their  teeth  against 
wooden  substances,  in  order  to  be  ready  for  any  chance  encoun 
ter  that  might  turn  up. 

After  an  animated  discussion,  the  party  went  on  in  quest  of 
adventures.  One  of  them,  however,  a  Mid.,  feeling  exhausted 
by  the  intense  heat,  determined  to  remain  and  await  tho  return 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  219 

of  his  companions.  Sitting  on  as  dry  and  comfortable  a  seat  as 
could  be  procured,  he  deposited  his  gun  close  beside  him,  and 
lighted  a  cigar. 

Having  enjoyed  a  few  whiffs,  he  began  to  ruminate  on  the 
strange  scene  before  him.  Surrounded  by  an  intertangled  tropi 
cal  forest,  the  sun's  rays  were  completely  concealed  from  his 
view.  Close  to  his  feet,  his  attention  was  attracted  by  a  narrow 
ribbon  of  vivid  green,  which  wound  along  the  earth  beneath  the 
thick  undergrowth.  Examining  this  green  ribbon  attentively,  he 
thought  he  perceived  a  slight  movement  in  it ;  and,  on  a  closer 
survey,  he  discovered  it  to  be  a  train  of  large  ants,  each  bearing 
upright  in  its  forceps  a  portion  of  green  leaf. 

"  Where  the  deuce  does  this  road  lead  ?"  exclaimed  he.  "  May 
I  be  hanged,  without  a  drop  of  grog,  if  I  don't  explore  this  popu 
lous  district!" 

Picking  up  his  gun,  and  drawing  his  case-knife  to  cut  away 
the  tendrils  and  claspers  of  the  numerous  climbing  plants  which 
impeded  his  path,  he  followed  the  curious  "  ant-road."  This, 
however,  was  no  joke.  Sometimes,  crawling  on  all  fours,  he 
became  so  entangled  by  the  supplejack  withies,  that  he  could 
hardly  clear  one  arm  to  free  the  other  with  his  knife.  Again, 
when  the  absence  of  underwood  allowed  a  little  more  space,  he 
was  obstructed  by  the  vast  and  prostrate  trunk  of  a  tree  of  count 
less  age.  "With  a  spring  and  a  chuckle,  he  was  resolved  to  sur 
mount  this  obstruction ;  but  his  meditated  triumph  was  baffled. 
The  tree,  though  looking  sound  as  when  it  flourished  in  its 
prime,  was  decomposed,  and  its  treacherous  appearance  proved  a 
trap  into  which  our  middy  sank  to  his  arm-pits  in  a  cloud  of 
choking  dust.  Hitherto,  every  thing  appeared  to  be  what  it  was 
not :  it  was  a  place  of  grirn  delusions — a  valley  of  shadows. 

In  spite  of  these  bewildering  discouragements,  he  persevered 
three  hundred  yards  farther.  Being  now  quite  worn  out  by  the 
severe  labor,  he  sat  down  beside  the  ant-track.  To  his  astonish- 


220  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

ment,  the  myriad  army  had  not  yet  passed.  On  they  came  ill 
one  seemingly  interminable  stream ;  all  with  similar  burdens, 
and  all  traveling  in  one  direction.  The  portions  of  leaf  they  cai- 
ried  varied  in  size,  from  a  pea  to  nearly  half-a-crown.  The  dis 
burdened  ants,  returning  in  the  opposite  direction,  wound  their 
way,  so  as  not  to  incommode  their  laden  brethren. 

Just  as  he  was  preparing  to  return,  our  adventurer  suddenly 
heard  a  sound  so  sharp  and  clear  and  close,  that  he  interpreted 
it  into  a  strange  warning.  A  green  lizard,  about  a  foot  long, 
was  creeping  on  a  branch  within  three  feet  of  his  head.  With  a 
prolonged  hiss,  it  repeated,  at  short  intervals,  a  sound  resembling 
the  words  "Gekko  !  gekko  !"  It  then  protruded  its  forked  tongue 
with  sudden  darts.  Little  did  our  careless  Mid.  know  his  danger ; 
but  he  was  fully  acquainted  with  it  some  years  after,  when  read 
ing  the  work  of  that  eminent  naturalist,  Count  de  la  Cepede. 
"  Of  all  the  oviparous  quadrupeds,"  says  that  author,  "  the  gekko, 
so  named  from  its  cry,  contains  the  deadliest  poison.  In  this 
lizard,  whose  species  is  but  too  prolific,  a  corrosive  liquor  is  ex 
alted  to  such  a  degree  as  to  carry  corruption  and  death  to  all 
animals  into  which  the  active  humor  may  penetrate.  It  is 
about  a  foot  long ;  its  skin  is  of  a  pale  sea-green,  covered  with 
red  spots.  The  eyes  are  very  large,  starting  out  of  the  head 
with  long  and  narrow  eye-balls.  Its  teeth  are  so  sharp  as  to 
make  an  impression  on  steel.  Each  of  its  four  legs  has  crooked 
claws,  armed  at  the  end  with  nails.  The  creature  is  almost 
entirely  covered  with  warts,  more  or  less  prominent.  Its  bite  is 
certain  death,  unless  the  part  is  cut  away  or  burned." 

"Hideous  monster!"  exclaimed  our  Mid.;  "cut  your  lucky, 
or  look  out  for  squalls." 

"  Gekko  !  gekko  !  gekko  !"  iterated  the  lizard,  as  if  in  reply, 
and  drawing  himself  stealthily  toward  the  Mid. 

"  Incarnation  of  the  Devil !"  vociferated  the  latter,  "  put  that 
in  your  pipe  and  smoke  it." 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  221 

As  he  spoke,  he  pulled  the  trigger  of  his  gun,  and  blew  the 
reptile  to  pieces. 

The  noise  of  the  gun  was  followed  by  a  sudden  motion  in  the 
bushes.  Through  the  curtain  of  smoke  which  clung  heavily 
round,  he  perceived  to  his  horror,  a  huge  and  slimy  snake  gliding 
past  within  arm's  length. 

"  Only  let  me  get  safe  out  of  this  beastly  wood !"  ejaculated 
he.  "  If  that  infernal  varmint  had  only  caught  me  while  hung 
up  in  the  tangle  !  0  dear  !  I  mustn't  think  of  that.  I  am  sure, 
though,  if  he  had  swallowed  me,  I  should  have  given  him  the 
stomach-ache.  There's  some  comfort  in  the  lex  talionis." 

With  cocked  gun,  he  carefully  retraced  his  steps ;  and,  after 
a  while,  was  delighted  to  find  himself  once  more  beside  the 
bridged  rivulet.  Taking  a  long  draught  of  the  tepid  water,  he 
began  anxiously  to  expect  the  return  of  his  companions.  The 
brooding  silence,  nursed  rather  than  disturbed  by  the  streamlet 
and  the  gentle  buzz  of  insects  and  lizards,  was  harshly  broken 
by  the  sound  of  a  rather  distant  shot.  Another,  and  then 
another.  Loud  shouts  now  followed  in  quick  succession,  as  of 
men  in  wild  excitement. 

As  the  sounds  were  evidently  approaching,  our  Middy  crouched 
down,  with  gun  prepared  for  any  game  that  might  be  driven 
past.  Suddenly  his  ears  caught  a  noise  as  of  the  light  crackling 
of  wood.  A  moment  more,  and  a  shaggy  gray  head  peered  out 
from  the  jungle,  and  a  large  ape  leaped  with  nimble  bounds, 
over  the  bridge.  Our  Mid.  was  so  startled  by  this  apparition, 
that  he  had  not  time  to  fire.  Two  more  apes  quickly  followed 
the  first,  and  bounded  over.  The  last  of  the  three  stopped  short 
when  across,  turned  round  with  threatening  gestures,  and  ap 
peared  inclined,  in  spite  of  the  leveled  gun,  to  return  and  attack 
the  midshipman.  His  finger  was  on  the  trigger,  and  the  barrel 
was  aimed  at  the  brute's  heart.  He  was  in  the  act  of  firing. 
What,  then,  could  cause  him  to  lower  his  gun,  burst  into  a  loud 


222  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

laugh,  and  exelaim,  "Go  to  the  devil,  you  stupid  old  female 
simia  ?" 

The  explanation  is  simple  and  natural  enough.  A  little  baby 
ape  had  popped  its  queer,  tiny  visage  over  its  mother's  shoulders, 
and  magically  softened  our  reefer's  nature.  The  shots  now 
sounded  close  at  hand,  and  evidently  changed  the  ape's  inten 
tions.  She  turned  and  fled ;  the  little  one,  looking  round  and 
gibbering  with  anger,  shook  its  puny  fist  in  impotent  rage. 

The  party  now  returned  to  the  beach,  and  feasted  sumptuously 
on  fish,  armadillos  (some  of  which  the  sportsmen  had  shot),  and 
fragrant  bowls  of  cocoa-nut  milk. 

Close  to  the  beach  where  the  ground  was  more  open,  one  of 
the  ant-roads  was  followed  several  hundred  yards  in  opposite 
directions.  No  success  attended  this  exploration  ;  but  the  same 
animated  and  busy  scene  met  the  eye  at  every  part  of  the 
route.  Shortness  of  time,  and  the  difficulty  of  following  the 
course,  prevented  the  length  of  these  singular  roads  being  ascer 
tained. 

The  shores  of  the  bay  were  strewed  with  a  species  of  nautilus. 
Of  these,  the  men  picked  up  dozens,  and  took  them  on  board  to 
their  shipmates,  as  playthings  might  be  carried  home  to  children, 
after  a  short  absence. 

"  I  say,  Billy,  my  bo,"  exclaimed  a  great-whiskered  Jack  to 
his  chum,  on  getting  afloat,  "here's  a  hankercher  choke  full  of 
Portigee  men-of-war  for  you." 

"  Portigee  men-of-war  be  d — d,"  replied  his  friend.  "  What's 
the  use  o'  they  ?  You  can't  eat  'em." 

After  a  stay  of  ten  days,  the  vessel  sailed  back  to  Chagres  for 
the  return  mail  to  Jamaica  and  England.  Great  was  the 
delight  of  all  hands  when  the  flag,  hoisted  at  the  castle,  gave 
notice  that  the  mails  had  arrived.  Boats  were  immediately 
dispatched,  and  were  shortly  seen  returning,  accompanied  by  a 
considerable  freight.  Two  passengers — a  Spanish  lady  and  her 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME,  223 

daughter — came  off  in  a  canoe.  Their  anxiety  to  get  forward  to 
St.  Juan  de  Cuba,  via  Jamaica,  was  so  great,  that  the  captain, 
out  of  compassion  (to  say  nothing  of  gallantry),  consented  to  take 
them,  any  delay  in  such  a  climate  as  Chagres  being  equivalent 
to  a  death  warrant.  The  lady's  canoe  was  well  ballasted  with 
bags  of  pesos  (dollars).  She  did  not  appear  in  the  least  embar 
rassed  by  the  absolute  nudity  of  her  crew,  composed  of  six  blacks. 
In  some  degree  resembling  the  American  backwoodsman,  whose 
summer-costume  consisted  of  a  shirt-collar  and  a  pair  of  spurs, 
the  only  articles  of  dress  worn  by  the  negro  canoe-men  were  a 
kind  of  amulet  or  charrn  hanging  from  their  necks,  which  they 
appeared  to  regard  with  the  most  profound  veneration,  and  a  case- 
knife  slung  round  their  middles.  On  one  of  the  seamen  attempt 
ing  to  touch  an  amulet,  he  was  repelled  with  fierce  indignation 
and  horror  by  the  miserable  owner. 

In  spite  of  the  extreme  heat,  these  black  men  were  shivering 
with  cold,  though  large  drops,  like  hot  rain,  rolled  off  their  bare 
skins.  Still  they  shivered  and  cowered,  and  seemed  thankful 
for  the  smallest  shelter,  especially  if  near  the  galley  fire.  So 
relative  is  the  feeling  of  heat  and  cold. 

The  vessel  being  prepared  to  sail  immediately  on  receipt  of 
the  mails  and  freight,  some  youngsters  were  amusing  themselves 
in  the  tops  ;  and,  while  thus  occupied,  their  attention  was  ex 
cited  by  the  singular  canoe  alongside,  and  still  more  singular 
cargo.  In  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  they  perceived,  fore  arid  aft, 
a  row  of  grass  bags  containing  dollars.  A  suspicious  movement 
of  one  of  the  blacks  caught  the  keen  gaze  of  a  youngster  in  the 
top,  who  lying  flat  down,  projected  his  eyes  over  the  top  rim, 
and  took  note  of  all  that  passed.  During  this  scrutiny,  he  saw 
one  of  the  black  fellows,  while  pretending  to  fumble  at  the  side 
of  the  canoe,  gently  pull  out  a  small  plug,  causing  a  jet  of  water 
to  run  into  her.  This  manoeuvre  the  negro  concealed  by  his 
leg.  In  a  short  time  the  bags  of  treasure  were  covered  by  water. 


224  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

"  What  game  are  the  rascals  up  to  now  ?"  thought  our  sharp- 
sighted  youngster  in  the  top. 

Immediately  after,  another  negro  unslung  his  case-knife  from 
his  waist,  affecting  very  industriously  to  pare  his  toe-nails  ;  but 
in  performing  this  natural  operation,  which  created  no  suspicion 
in  the  vessel,  he  took  care  slily  to  rip  open  one  of  the  dollar  bags. 
Closing  his  knife,  he  began  to  work  the  bag  with  his  feet,  now 
nearly  submerged.  As  the  canoe  rolled,  the  "  detective  eyes" 
aloft  caught  a  momentaiy  glimpse  of  bright  new  dollars,  which 
were  gently  oozing  out  of  their  place  of  confinement. 

With  a  bounce  of  delight,  our  Mid.  flew  down  the  rigging,  and, 
touching  his  hat  to  the  first  lieutenant,  explained  what  had  hap 
pened.  The  process  of  hoisting  in  the  treasure  was  instantly  sus 
pended  ;  the  niggers  were  bundled  up  on  deck,  and  half  a  dozen 
active  fellows  sent  into  the  canoe  to  bail  her  out.  A  hundred 
eager  eyes,  now  directed  from  every  position  that  commanded  a 
view  of  the  scene,  were  speedily  gratified  by  the  sight  of  a  thick 
layer  of  sparkling  dollars.  Several  of  the  bags  were  already 
tapped,  and,  had  not  a  good  look-out  been  kept  from  aloft,  a 
large  sum  would  have  been  abstracted. 

Immediately  after  this,  the  vessel  weighed,  and  proceeded  on 
her  trip  to  Jamaica.  In  consequence  of  the  equatorial  current 
being  adverse,  vessels  making  this  voyage  are  compelled  to  hug 
the  mainland  of  Central  America,  until  a  position  is  attained, 
about  Carthagena,  sufficiently  far  to  the  eastward  to  make  the 
trade-wind  favorable  for  crossing  the  Carribean  Sea.  This  is  a 
long  and  tedious  part  of  the  voyage,  as  light  airs  and  calms  are 
prevalent  on  the  coast  of  the  mainland. 

Soon  after  leaving  Chagres,  the  yellow  fever,  in  a  mild  form, 
appeared  on  board,  and  attacked  fresh  victims  every  day.  The 
moment,  however,  a  departure  was  made  from  this  pestiferous 
coast  the  disease  readily  yielded  to  medical  treatment.  Out  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  men  of  whom  the  crew  was  com- 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  225 

posed,  eighty  were  laid  up  at  one  time.  The  Spanish  lady  still 
had  excellent  health  ;  and,  with  her  daughter,  enjoyed  numerous 
"  cigarros  papillos."  But,  on  her  landing  at  Port  Royal,  she 
was  seized  with  the  fever  in  its  most  malignant  form,  and  was 
carried  off  by  it  within  two  days  of  her  landing.  Every  man  of 
the  crew  speedily  recovered. 

Great  was  the  delight  of  all  hands  at  receiving  orders  to  pre 
pare  for  a  trip  to  Halifax,  and  the  vessel  was  speedily  on  her 
way  there,  via  Bermuda.  The  change  of  climate  had  a  marvel 
ous  effect  upon  the  health  of  the  crew.  On  entering  the  Atlantic 
through  the  Caycos  passage,  old  and  obstinate  blains  on  the  legs 
and  feet,  healed  up  as  if  by  magic,  and  the  crew  felt  braced  and 
lively  by  so  agreeable  a  change  of  climate.  Calling  at  Ber 
muda  to  deliver  dispatches,  the  vessel  once  more  put  her  head 
to  the  northward. 

About  ten,  A.M.,  the  yards  were  braced  up  to  a  strong  breeze 
from  the  west,  and  the  ship  darted  forward  like  a  hound  slipped 
from  its  leash.  The  whole  day  was  fine  and  invigorating,  not 
betraying  the  slightest  symptom  of  the  heavy  gale  which  was 
soon  to  menace  us.  At  the  usual  quarters  in  the  evening,  the 
top-sails  were  double-reefed,  and  all  made  snug  for  a  good  night's 
run.  Just  as  this  evolution  was  finished,  a  vessel  was  viewed 
ahead,  and  speedily  made  out  to  be  the  packet  for  Bermuda, 
now  overdue  ten  days. 

While  the  two  vessels  were  in  the  act  of  exchanging  numbers, 
one  of  our  Mids.  was  sent  below  to  examine  the  barometer.  Re 
turning  on  deck  with  his  report  to  the  captain,  he  said  he  thought 
the  instrument  must  be  out  of  order,  as  the  quicksilver  had  fallen 
so  much.  This  report  induced  the  captain  to  descend,  and  care 
fully  note  both  barometer  and  simpiesometer.  To  his  great  sur 
prise  he  found  they  had  each  sunk  considerably.  Coupling  this 
disturbance  of  the  quicksilver  with  the  locality  we  were  now 
approaching,  namely,  the  stormy  region  of  the  gulf-stream,  it 


226  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

became  necessary  to  keep  a  sharp  look-out.  Accordingly,  our 
careful  and  prudent  skipper  immediately  turned  the  hands  up  to 
shorten  sail.  Top-gallant  yards  and  masts  were  quickly  got  on 
deck,  topsails  close  reefed,  and  mainsail  furled. 

Still  all  looked  bright  and  clear.  At  this  time,  half-past  six, 
P.M.,  the  packet  brig  was  two  miles  to  windward,  staggering 
under  a  heavy  press  of  canvas,  her  course  being  due  south,  ours 
due  north,  the  wind  west,  or  fair  for  both.  Numerous  were  the 
gibes  and  sneers  at  the  captain's  "timidity,"  as  it  was  called. 
In  truth,  the  contrast  was  so  marked  between  the  canvas  car 
ried  by  the  two  vessels,  that,  to  those  without  responsibility, 
undue  caution  seemed  to  be  observed. 

"  Look  at  that  little  hooker,"  exclaimed  one,  "  how  she  flies  ! 
Why,  she'll  be  at  Bermuda  to-morrow  morning." 

These  words  attracted  the  author's  attention,  and  he  looked 
long  and  steadfastly  at  the  small  vessel.  His  was  the  last  eye 
that  ever  beheld  her.  A  haze  crept  over  the  scene  :  the  watch 
was  called,  and  the  men  off  duty  went  below. 

Suddenly,  a  sharp,  clear  voice  was  heard  ringing  through  the 
ship  : 

"  All  hands  trim  sails  !  Man  the  weather  braces  !  Square 
away  the  yards !" 

Not  one  moment  too  soon  was  this  mandate  obeyed.  A  hur 
ricane-squall  had  overtaken  us  from  the  south,  right  astern.  The 
vessel  heeled  violently  over  ;  the  lee-hammock  nettings  were  un 
der  water,  and  appeared  to  be  flying-to  against  the  helm.  The 
precautions  before  taken  had  now  their  reward ;  for,  in  a  few 
minutes,  every  sail  was  safely  furled,  except  close-reefed  topsails. 

"  What  a  pace  she  is  going  !"  exclaimed  the  officer  of  the  watch. 
"  Heave  the  log." 

The  Mid.  of  the  watch,  in  spite  ot  the  thorough  drenching  he 
got  in  executing  this  order,  made  his  report  smilingly,  and  with 
an  air  of  triumph  : 


CEUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  227 

"  Twelve  and  six,  Sir." 

From  that  time  to  this,  the  packet-brig  has  never  been  heard 
of.  The  squall  that  came  up  astern  of  our  vessel  took  her  aback  i 
Thus  perished  the  poor  "  Recruit."  This  rough  lesson  was  not 
thrown  away  ;  the  experience  gained  by  it  has  saved  several 
lives. 

As  the  evening  wore  on,  dark  and  slate-colored  clouds  rose  in 
all  directions.  The  air  became  sensibly  colder,  and  a  continua 
tion  of  violent  squalls  swept  furiously  over  the  vessel.  Still  the 
water  remained  quite  warm,  forming  a  striking  contrast  to  the 
coldness  of  the  atmosphere. 

"  We  are  in  for  a  night  of  it,  I  am  quite  sure  of  that,"  observed 
the  lieutenant  of  the  first  watch,  as  he  came  on  deck  to  relieve 
the  other  officer.  "It  is  awfully  dark  and  black  and  dense. 
Just  wait  a  minute  for  my  eyes  to  get  used  to  it,  before  I  relieve 
you." 

To  the  party  on  deck,  the  appearance  of  the  vessel  was  very 
impressive.  Flying  furiously  through  the  water,  the  yard-arms, 
and  boom-ends  sometimes  dipped  in  the  creamy  and  sparkling 
foam.  On  these  occasions  the  rolling  of  the  vessel  was  fearful, 
and  the  hammock-nettings  plunged  to  such  an  extent,  that  whole 
volumes  of  water  rushed  inboard.  Before  these  could  wholly 
escape  by  the  opened  ports,  they  dashed,  torrent-like,  across  the 
decks,  clearing  away  every  thing  which  was  not  firmly  lashed  and 
secured.  Still  the  ship  flew  onward  with  perilous  speed.  Not 
withstanding  this  rapid  dart  through  the  waves,  a  huge  sea  would, 
every  now-and-then,  overtake  us  in  a  threatening  manner  close 
to  the  stern,  striking  it  with  gigantic  force,  deluging  the  decks 
fore  and  aft,  and  causing  the  brig  to  quake  and  tremble  as  if  with 
arrant  fear.  Still,  on  she  went  with  headlong  speed,  striving  to 
outrun  her  watery  pursuers. 

Let  us  now  descend  into  the  midshipmen's  berth.  Within 
this  miserable  hole  were  crammed  ten  juvenile  human  beings. 


228  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

Regardless  of  the  furious  war  of  elements  above,  these  thought 
less  lads  were  eager  for  the  arrival  of  their  messmate  from  the 
deck.  He  had  promised  them  a  long  yarn.  In  anticipation  of 
this  treat  the  table  was  spread  with  a  dirty  canvas  cloth.  A 
bottle  of  rum  peeped  invitingly  from  the  corner  of  a  beaufet,  and 
each  inhabitant  of  this  dismal  den  tightly  clasped  his  glass — a 
necessary  precaution,  as  the  excessive  motion  of  the  vessel  tossed 
every  unsecured  article  violently  about. 

"  Now  then,"  said  one  of  the  youngsters,  "hurrah  for  a  long 
yarn  !" 

As  he  spoke,  the  berth-door  was  opened,  and  the  mate  walked 
in.  Casting  his  wet  coat  and  boots  on  the  steerage  deck,  he 
waited  the  roll  of  the  ship.  Adroitly  taking  advantage  of  the 
proper  moment,  he  vaulted  over  the  table,  and  seated  himself 
against  the  after  bulk-head.  Filling  a  stiff"  sou'-wester,"  he  lift 
ed  the  brimming  glass  to  his  lips. 

"Here's  luck,  my  lads,"  said  he  ;  "  luck  to  us  all !  And  now 
you  shall  have  the  discourse  I  promised." 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE  GUNNERY-MATE'S  YARN. 

"  WELL,  my  lads,"  continued  the  mate,  "  I  am  not  much  of 
a  hand  at  a  yarn ;  but  if  you  like  to  hear  something  new  about 
matters  connected  with  gunnery,  I  shall  have  great  pleasure  in 
communicating  to  you  a  few  curious  facts. 

"  It  is  impossible  to  deny  that,  of  late  years,  our  navy  has  im 
proved  more  in  the  science  and  practice  of  gunnery,  than  in  any 
other  branch  of  the  service.  But  I  think  there  is  one  kind  of 
projectiles,  namely  Congreve  rockets,  which  are  not  sufficiently 
appreciated.  I  was  more  confirmed  in  this  opinion  on  reading 
a  report  of  the  Select  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons,  on 
the  Steam  Navy.  The  result  of  this  report  is  that  mercantile 
steam-ships,  of  the  size  and  strength  necessary  for  the  reception 
of  such  guns  as  are  in  use  in  the  royal  navy,  would  be  a  most 
valuable  auxiliary  force  for  the  national  defense. 

"  Now  it  is  quite  clear  that  none  of  the  1110  registered  British 
merchant-steamers,  mentioned  in  the  report,  under  four  hundred 
tons,  are  capable  of  carrying  such  guns  as  would  render  them 
available  in  naval  warfare.  There  remain,  therefore,  one  hun 
dred  and  seventy- three  steamers  above  that  size.  Deduct  at  leas* 
twenty  per  cent.,  for  old  and  useless  vesssels,  and  barely  one 
hundred  and  forty  are  left.  In  case  of  war  most  of  these  vessels 
would  run  their  passages  as  usual,  fighting  their  way.  The 
coasts  of  England  would  consequently  still  remain  under  the 
guardianship  of  the  war-vessels.  Now,  it  is  quite  certain  that 


230  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

this  latter  force  would  be  utterly  insufficient  to  protect  all  the 
harbors  on  the  coast  of  England.  I  have  considered  this  subject 
well,  and  believe  that  a  position  of  perfect  safety  may  be  achieved 
by  arming  the  smaller  vessels  of  the  steam  mercantile  marine 
with  Congreve  rockets. 

"  These  projectiles,  and  the  arrangement  of  their  fittings,  are  in 
a  very  different  state  from  what  they  were  in  the  late  war.  At 
Walcheren,  the  officers  who  managed  the  rocket  department  had 
their  clothes  burnt  from  their  persons  by  the  back-fire.  This 
incident,  coupled  with  the  unwillingness  of  many  naval  officers 
of  high  rank  to  admit  their  efficiency,  has  created  a  prejudice 
against  their  use. 

"  When  Lord  Collingwood  was  first  offered  the  use  of  Con 
greve  rockets  by  the  Admiralty  of  the  day,  his  answer  was  char 
acterized  more  by  prejudice  than  by  reason  ;  he  decried  the  new 
invention,  contemptuously  calling  them  '  useless  sky-rockets.' 
Even  at  the  present  day  very  few  officers  are  acquainted  with 
their  power,  or  have  sufficient  experience  in  their  management, 
to  make  them  effective.  A  very  glaring  case  happened  lately  in 
the  royal  navy.  A  steam-vessel,  fitted  with  rocket  tubes,  was 
being  prepared  for  action.  The  men,  not  understanding  the  use 
of  the  little  bag  of  bursting-powder  intended  to  fill  the  shell  at 
the  end  of  the  rocket,  employed  it  in  priming  the  rocket ;  con 
sequently,  when  the  fuse  was  applied,  a  loud  explosion  ensued, 
bursting  the  tube,  knocking  down  the  sapient  gunners  instead 
of  the  enemy,  and  blowing  the  rocket  overboard.  This  lubberly 
occurrence  was  loudly  trumpeted  forth  as  an  instance  of  the 
danger  and  uncertainty  of  Congreve  rockets. 

"Having  given  you  an  instance  of  prejudice  in  former,  and 
of  absolute  ignorance  in  later  times,  I  will  now  call  your  atten 
tion  to  the  most  remarkable  instances  of  the  efficiency  of  the 
missiles  in  question,  as  recently  exhibited.  First,  the  destruction 
of  the  Chinese  Admiral's  junk  by  a  rocket  fired  from  the  '  Ne- 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME,  231 

mesis ;'  and,  secondly,  the  havoc  inflicted  by  the  rocket-battery 
at  San  Lorenzo,  in  the  Parana.  The  latter  application  of  rockets 
was  considered  by  Sir  Charles  Hotham  as  mainly  conducive  to 
the  safe  passage  of  the  convoy  past  the  batteries.  He  charac 
terized  it  in  his  official  dispatch,  as  of  '  essential  service.'  1 
consider  these  as  the  most  effective  employments  of  the  Congreve 
rocket  that  have  ever  taken  place. 

"  That  great  military  authority,  Marmont,  Due  de  Raguse, 
speaks  in  high  terms  of  these  projectiles.  In  his  work  entitled 
'Esprit  des  Institutions  Militaires,'  he  thus  expresses  himself: 
'  I  think  the  Congreve  rocket  is  destined  to  effect,  in  the  field 
and  in  infantry  contests,  an  alteration  as  extensive  as  that  which 
in  naval  warfare  and  coast  defense  may  be  expected  from  hollow 
shot,  and  the  Paixhan  guns.  The  first  campaign  in  which  Au 
stria  may  be  engaged,  is  likely  to  exhibit  an  extensive  use  of  the 
rocket.' 

"  Now,  my  lads,  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  Marshal,  though 
undoubtedly  a  man  well  versed  in  the  science  of  war,  did  not 
perceive,  with  a  nautical  eye,  the  most  important  service  to  be 
derived  from  rockets.  Before  I  enlarge  on  this,  let  us  overhaul 
the  table  of  the  mercantile  marine.  This  is  necessary,  as  my  argu 
ment  is  mainly  founded  on  the  statistics  exhibited  in  it.  This 
table  embraces  only  such  steam-vessels  as  the  parliament 
ary  committee  considers  incapable  of  carrying  guns  sufficiently 
heavy  to  act  in  offensive  warfare.  It  will  be  well  to  bear  this 
in  mind. 


PORT.  No. 

London 243 

Boston 1 

Bridgewater 1 

Bristol 27 

Caernarvon  .  ,  1 


Carried  Forward 273          38,796 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 


PORT.  No.  TONNAGE. 

Brought  Forward 273  38,796 

Cardiff 7  532 

Carlisle 2  434 

Chepstow 3  191 

Chester 6  705 

Clay 1  50 

Dartmouth 1  25 

Dover 2  195 

Falmouth 1  81 

Feversham 1  28 

Gainsborough 2  184 

Gloucester 3  295 

Goole 5  457 

Grimsby 1  81 

Hartlepool 3  183 

Hull 21  3,070 

Harwich 1  294 

Ipswich 4  344 

Lancaster 3  465 

Liverpool 69  10,493 

Lynn 3  438 

Llanelly 2  206 

Mary-port 1  54 

Newcastle 163  9,124 

Newport 2  160 

Plymouth 5  568 

Poole 1  130 

Portsmouth 4  290 

Preston 9  1,260 

Pwllhelly 1  115 

Ramsgate 5  1,150 

Rochester ...  4  296 

Runcorn 1  143 

St.  Ives... 4  1,000 

Southampton 25  4,432 

Shields 27  1,576 

Stockton 25  1,744 

Sunderland    28  1,541 


Carried  Forward 719 


81,130 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 


233 


PORT.  No.  TONNAGE. 

Brought  Forward 719  81,130 

Swansea 11  1,141 

Weymouth 1  120 

Whitby 1  80 

Whitehaven 3  587 

Wisbeach 4  270 

Yarmouth 10  1,169 

Aberdeen 7  1,017 

Alloa 3  398 

Anstruther 2  208 

Ayr 1  95 

Campbeltoun 2  462 

Dundee 7  680 

Glasgow 65  10,952 

Grangemouth 3  157 

Greenock 4  702 

Inverness 1  51 

Irvine 1  134 

Kirkaldy 2  298 

Kirkwall 1  182 

Leith 18  2,644 

Montrose 1  140 

Perth *       1  49 

Port  Glasgow 6  787 

Belfast 5  620 

Cork 13  1,852 

Dublin 27  6,593 

Dundalk 1  309 

Londonderry 3  846 

Newry 1  350 

Sligo 1  74 

Waterford 9  2,614 

Wexford 1  362 

Drogheda 2  382 

Total 937  117,455 

Deduct  twenty  per  cent 187  23,491 

Remains 750  93,954 


234  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

"We  have  here  a  list  of  seven  hundred  and  fifty  steamers,  of 
all  sizes  up  to  four  hundred  tons,  which,  in  the  Parliamentary 
Report,  are  condemned  as  useless.  The  tonnage  amounts  to 
about  ninety-four  thousand  tons,  and  the  vessels  are  distributed 
in  the  very  places  required,  that  is  to  say,  at  the  ports  all  round 
the  coasts  of  Great  Britain. 

"  This  force,  properly  fitted,  can  be  made  so  formidable,  that  I 
advisedly  assert,  it  will  be  more  than  a  match  for  the  largest 
fleets  the  world  could  muster  to  attack  this  country." 

"Draw  it  mild,  old  chap,"  interposed  a  Mid.,  "that's  rather 
a  tough  'un  !" 

"  Well,"  replied  the  mate,  "  it  looks  so,  I  confess,  at  first  sight ; 
but  just  hear  what  I  have  to  say.  Suppose,  then,  we  take  one 
of  these  little  steamers,  and  estimate  the  effect,  if  armed  accord 
ing  to  my  ideas.  Say,  at  a  venture,  '  Waterman,  No.  1,'  a  ves 
sel  which,  together  with  her  class,  is  well  known  on  the  Thames 
above  bridge.  She  is  one  hundred  and  five  feet  long,  and  thir 
teen  feet  five  inches  beam.  Place  in  her,  fore  and  aft  amidship, 
as  many  of  the  new  circular  pivot  rocket-tubes  as  she  will 
carry.  As  the  newly-invented  rockets  are  projected  without 
sticks  or  poles,  a  distance  of  six  feet  apart  would  be  ample  for 
the  battery.  This  vessel,  therefore,  one  hundred  and  five  feet 
long,  could  carry  seventeen  tubes,  leaving  three  feet  to  spare. 
Should  these  tubes  be  skillfully  and  quickly  handled,  five  dis 
charges  from  each  can  be  made  in  one  minute,  being  eighty-five 
in  that  very  short  space  of  time,  or  four  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  in  five  minutes ! 

"  Two  men  could  manage  the  tube  on  deck  easily.  The  great 
difficulty  would  be  a  sufficient  supply  of  ammunition,  which,  how 
ever,  might  be  obviated  by  a  man  stationed  below  to  each  tube, 
and  employed  thrusting  up  rockets,  through  a  round  hole  in  the 
deck,  as  fast  as  wanted.  By  these  means  one  of  the  little  river- 
boats  could  fire  at  a  greater  rate  than  the  largest  ship  in  the  world. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  230 

"  I  may  have  underrated  the  space  (six  feet)  required  by  the 
rocket-tubes.  At  any  rate,  half  the  number  could  be  easily 
placed ;  and  even  this  great  diminution  would  still  give  us  the 
vast  amount  of  forty-two  and  a  half  a  minute.  This,  however, 
is  an  exaggerated  reduction.  I  merely  wish  to  be  within  the 
mark. 

"Suppose,  then,  with  'Waterman,  No.  1,'  thus  armed.  I  could 
manage  to  get  under  a  line-of-battle  ship's  stern,  at  night  or  in  a 
fog.  What  would  be  the  consequence  ?  why,  before  she  could 
be  clear  for  action — men  dressed  and  all — say  five  minutes,  I 
should  have  raked  her  with  four  hundred  and  twenty-five  dis 
charges.  As  I  should  take  good  care  to  be  within  a  few  yards, 
the  chances  are  that  every  shot  would  tell.  What  sort  of  plight 
would  she  be  in  then  ?  Four  hundred  and  twenty-five  shots  in 
one  vessel,  is  more  than  has  yet  been  received,  without  destruc 
tion,  by  any  ship. 

"  With  a  man-of-war  screw-steamer,  one  hundred  and  eight 
feet  long,  you  may  fairly  say  the  effect  would  be  still  greater. 
Let  us  compare  a  vessel  of  this  description  with  a  crack  steamer 
of  the  present  day.  The  first  ship  of  this  kind  that  I  can  call  to 
mind  as  being  in  admirable  order  and  discipline — in  fact,  the 
beau-ideal  of  what  a  steamer  ought  to  be — is  the  '  Devastation,' 
lately  commanded  by  Captain  Henry.  She  is  one  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  long,  carries  two  eighty-four  and  four  thirty-two 
pounder  guns,  and  can  fight  four  guns  on  the  broadside. 

"  Let  us  now  suppose  this  almost  perfect  steamer  to  meet  our 
rocket-screw.  We  will  imagine  them  to  commence  firing  at  the 
same  moment.  The  '  Devastation'  would  fire  her  four  broadside 
guns  at  the  rate  of  one  broadside  in  two  minutes.  This  would 
give,  at  the  end  of  six  minutes,  twelve  shots.  Now  let  us  see 
what  the  rocket  screw  would  have  done  in  the  same  time.  She 
mounts,  we  will  say,  twenty-eight  rocket-tubes,  taking  rather 
less  room  than  one  to  six  feet.  Multiply  twenty-eight  by  five, 


236  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

the  number  of  discharges  from  each  tube  in  a  minute,  and  six 
minutes  will  give  the  aggregate  of  eight  hundred  and  forty 
rockets  in  the  hull  of  her  antagonist.  Pray  how  would  poor 
'  Devastation'  feel  after  this  dose  ?" 

"  Hold  hard,  old  chap  !"  interrupted  a  youngster.  "  Your 
circular  tubes  would  become  red-hot  after  a  few  discharges." 

"  Of  course  they  would,"  replied  the  mate.  "  But  there  would 
be  plenty  of  water  to  cool  them,  wouldn't  there,  spoony  ?  Of 
one  thing  the  Ordnance  Department  must  be  careful ;  and  that  is, 
to  have  the  tubes  made  entirely,  of  metal.  Should  any  wood,  or 
other  inflammable  substance  be  present,  it  will  of  course  burn 
like  tinder  after  a  dozen  discharges.*  When  I  commanded  a 
rocket  battery,  I  found,  after  about  a  dozen  discharges,  that  the 
tubes  were  red-hot.  Some  stupid  gunners  had  welded  one  of 
the  tubes  with  spun  yarn,  which  burned  so  furiously  that  the 
tube  was  disabled  for  several  minutes.  This  might  have  been  a 
serious  matter,  as  I  was  then  covering  a  large  convoy  of  mer 
chant-vessels  with  only  six  tubes,  firing  at  the  rate  of  forty  a 
minute." 

"What  an  awful  fire,  to  be  sure  !"  exclaimed  the  youngster. 
"  What  effect  had  it  on  the  enemy  ?" 

"The  effect,"  answered  the  mate,  "was  prodigious.  The 
enemy  appeared  quite  paralyzed.  And  well  he  might,  with  such 
a  deadly  shower." 

"I  wonder,"  observed  the  assistant  surgeon,  "why  the  Admi 
ralty  has  not  tried  this  scheme." 

"  It  is  not  for  want  of  knowledge,"  replied  the  mate.  "I  was 
so  impressed  with  its  importance,  that  I  was  simple  enough  to 
put  it  on  paper,  and  forward  it  to  head-quarters,  marked  '  Private 
and  Confidential.' " 

*  We  are  informed  that  an  experimental  metal  tube  is  stowed  away  in 
the  "  Excellent."  Some  squabble  between  the  Admiralty  and  the  patentee 
preventing  this  useful  invention  being  properly  tested. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  237 

"  Never  call  me  a  spoony  again,  after  that,"  said  the  youngster 
who  had  previously  ventured  a  remark  or  two.  "  But  pray  what 
answer  did  you  receive  ?" 

"Why,  none  at  all,"  answered  the  mate;  "although  I  fished 
out  that  every  thing  was  being  prepared  exactly  as  I  had  sug 
gested." 

"You  don't  really  mean  to  say,"  inquired  the  youngster,  "that 
you  never  received  any  answer,  gentle  or  simple?" 

"  None  at  all,  I  assure  you."  iterated  the  mate.  "  I  suppose 
the  Ordnance  will  get  the  credit  of  it  when  it  comes  out,  or  some 
body  else." 

"  Well,"  remarked  the  assistant  surgeon,  "  I  am  no  judge  of 
these  matters  ;  but  your  account  appears  so  plausible,  that  I  am 
convinced  it  should  be  tried." 

"  And  if  it  succeeds,"  suggested  the  youngster,  "  you  ought 
immediately  to  be  promoted,  and  appointed  to  a  screw-steamer 
to  carry  out  your  plan.  Pray  may  I  ask,"  continued  he,  "what 
prospects  have  you  in  the  service  ?" 

"Why,"  replied  the  mate,  "I  have  little  or  no  interest,  and 
therefore  do  not  expect  any  other  fate  than  to  remain  on  half-pay 
ashore  during  the  remainder  of  my  life." 

"  What  a  dreadful  existence  for  an  active  fellow  like  you  !" 
exclaimed  the  assistant  surgeon.  "Your  mind  will  prey  upon 
itself.  You  will  either  take  to  literary  pursuits,  or  go  mad." 

"  Neither,"  returned  the  mate.  "  I  have  ample  means.  If 
the  service,  my  great  ambition,  should  be  closed  against  me,  I 
shall  take  my  children  to  the  Colonies,  or,  what  I  consider  a 
much  better  field  for  activity,  capital,  and  intelligence,  the  United 
States  of  America,  that  great  country,  so  famous  for  its  common 
sense  and  liberality  of  opinion." 

"  I  can  not  help  saying,"  observed  the  assistant  surgeon,  "  that 
as  a  family  man  myself,  I  quite  agree  in  your  view  of  the  matter. 
If,  with  your  advantages  of  money  and  connection,  with  a  high 


238  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

character  as  a  naval  officer  united  to  an  ardent  love  of  your  pro 
fession — if  you,  I  say,  see  no  prospect  in  the  navy,  but  a  miser 
able  half-pay,  and  a  realization  of  the  result  of  '  hope  deferred,' 
what,  on  earth,  will  be  the  prospect  of  your  children  fifteen  years 
hence  ?  Go,  my  friend,  go,  by  all  means,  to  America  or  the 
Colonies.  In  either  of  those  lands,  you  will  have  a  much  better 
chance  of  happiness  for  yourself  and  family." 

The  gale  now  roared  with  increased  fury.  The  hatchways 
being  battened  down,  the  atmosphere  of  our  berth  was  not  only 
oppressive  but  nauseous  to  a  loathsome  degree.  Still  the  jolly 
party  there  crammed  together,  were  as  light-hearted  and  reck 
less  as  if  they  had  continued  in  the  stagnant  calm  of  Port 
Royal  harbor.  "  Every  man  to  his  glass  !"  was  the  universal 
shout  "  Steward  !  bring  in  more  grog  and  biscuits.  We  will  have 
the  remainder  of  the  rocket-yarn,  if  we  founder  in  the  midst  of 
it." 

At  this  moment,  a  loud  and  confused  sound  was  heard  on 
deck,  followed  by  the  trampling  of  feet.  "  Never  mind  that  bob 
bery  /"  exclaimed  a  voice.  "  I  know  what  it  is  ;  I  always  pre 
dicted  it.  The  main  topsail  is  blown  clean  out  of  the  bolt- 
ropes." 

This  prophetic  announcement  was  immediately  confirmed, 
accompanied  by  the  additional  intelligence  that  both  quarter- 
boats  were  washed  away. 

"Now,  then,  old  fellow,"  said  the  youngster,  "fire  away! 
Let  us  hear  the  end  of  your  yarn." 

"  "Willingly,"  replied  the  mate.  "  Let  us  '  hark  back'  to  our 
subject.  Were  we,  according  to  the  system  I  have  mentioned, 
to  avail  ourselves  of  the  little  steamers  so  summarily  dismissed 
by  the  report,  what  would  be  the  result  ?  Sufficiently  startling 
to  convince  the  most  sanguine  and  powerful  enemy  that  his 
utmost  efforts  to  invade  this  country  would  be  worse  than  idle. 
It  is  considerably  under  the  mark  to  take  six  inches  length  for 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  239 

every  ton  of  measurement.  Ninety-four  thousand  tons  of  steam- 
shipping  would  therefore  be  equal  to  a  space  of  steamer's  deck 
forty-seven  thousand  feet  long.  This  length,  divided  by  six,  will 
give  the  number  of  rocket-tubes  capable  of  being  mounted,  that 
is,  nearly  eight  thousand  rockets,  equal  to  a  fire  of  forty  thousand 
discharges  a  minute. 

"  Let  us  take,  for  example,  the  twenty-four  vessels  of  the 
Waterman  arid  Citizen  Companies,  and  arm  them  in  the  manner 
above  stated.  What  fleet  would  be  safe  against  their  attack 
either  at  sea  or  in  harbor  ?  Who  that  has  been  at  night-quarters 
in  a  line-of-battle  ship  has  not  felt  the  disadvantage  of  being  ex 
posed  to  the  fire  of  any  thing  not  boxed  up,  as  it  were,  and  con 
fined  in  its  movements  ?  What  gallant  admiral,  with  the  best 
organized  fleet  in  the  world  under  his  command,  could  sleep 
soundly,  if  he  knew  these  twenty -four  little  steamers  were  prowl 
ing  about  within  five  hundred  miles  ?  What  harbor  in  Europe 
would  be  safe  ?  what  dockyard  or  arsenal  ?  What  precaution 
could  keep  any  port  clear  of  some  part  of  this  hornet's  nest  of 
stingers  ?  The  most  vigilant  look-out  might  be  overcome  by  a 
squall,  a  passing  mist,  or  a  fog. 

"As  for  blockading  an  enemy's  port,  such  as  the  old  war- 
officers  are  so  fond  of  yarning  about,  that  would  be  preposterous. 
No  blockading  fleet  of  any  force,  more  particularly  sailing  vessels, 
could  lie  in  safety  within  twelve  hours'  run  of  any  port  whence 
these  steamers  could  emerge  during  the  night.  No  doubt  all  the 
rocket  steamers  would  not  escape  ;  a  well-directed  shot  would  be 
sufficient  to  destroy  any  one  of  them.  Let  me  ask,  however,  if 
the  naval  officers  of  England  would  not  gladly  run  the  chance. 
Why,  for  such  a  service  as  this,  the  greatest  desire  and  anxiety 
would  be  manifested.  Conceive  the  delight  of  getting  alongside 
a  huge  three-decker  at  anchor.  The  very  idea  of  a  small  and 
miserable  mite,  a  London-bridge  'Cricket,'  a  wafter  of  halfpenny 
passengers,  grappling  on  equal  terms,  and  any  chance  of  success 


240  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

with  a  huge  leviathan  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  guns,  would 
stimulate  the  imagination  of  any  lover  of  enterprise. 

"  Now,  my  hearties,  I  will  just  call  your  attention  to  the  pro 
digious  power  which  regularly  prepared  men-of-war  screw  steam 
ers  would  have,  if  built  for  this  purpose.  I  feel  so  convinced  on 
this  subject,  that  if  I  had  command  of  one  of  these  vessels,  I 
would  not  hesitate  to  attack  any  ship  that  swims.  Not,  mind 
you,  as  Nelson  attacked  the  French  fleet  at  Trafalgar,  for,  in  the 
present  day,  that  method  of  assault  would  be  fatal. 

"  To  conclude,  my  lads,  the  management  of  the  navy  must  be 
thoroughly  remodeled.  We  must  have  a  permanent  Board  of 
Admiralty ;  some  common-sense  arrangement,  which  will  at 
once,  and  forever,  put  an  end  to  parliamentary  pitchforking  into 
promotion  and  emolument.  This  abuse  has  hitherto  been  the 
greatest  bane  of  the  royal  navy.  If  these  old  customs  are  not 
modified,  if  new  tactics  are  not  thoroughly  examined  and  tried, 
if  we  do  not  keep  pace  with  the  rapid  march  of  the  times  in  the 
present  age,  we  shall,  in  the  event  of  another  great  war,  &c.,  &c., 
&c.  Now  let  us  turn  in  ;  I  have  the  morning  watch." 

This  closed  the  sitting,  and  all  the  mess  scrambled  into  ham 
mocks. 

During  the  whole  night  the  brig  made  good  progress  to  the 
northward.  This  favorable  run  continued  during  three  days  ; 
at  the  end  of  which  time  we  were,  by  reckoning,  on  the  tail  of 
one  of  the  lesser  banks  of  Newfoundland.  The  gale  had  moder 
ated  so  considerably,  that  the  usual  promenaders  of  the  quarter 
deck  (the  idlers)  were  enjoying  their  favorite  exercise,  which  had 
been  so  long  interrupted. 

On  approaching  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  dense  fogs  prevailed. 
These,  together  with  the  impossibility  of  taking  observations, 
caused  great  uncertainty  as  to  the  vessel's  position.  She  was 
now,  by  dead  reckoning,  close  to  the  land,  in  forty  fathoms  water. 
As  it  is  usual  in  these  blinding  fogs  to  signalize  the  shore  by 


CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME.  241 

means  of  cannon,  a  thirty-two-pounder  was  fired.  All  hands 
were  now  on  the  alert,  every  man  listening  attentively  for  an 
answer.  The  brig  was  lying-to  in  a  light  air,  and  the  sea  was 
as  smooth  as  glass.  During  a  brief  interval,  the  only  sound  that 
met  our  ears  was  the  fall  of  large  drops  of  moisture,  condensed  on 
the  shrouds  and  rigging.  After  a  few  minutes  of  earnest  atten 
tion,  a  distant  boom  was  heard  in  reply. 

"  That's  the  shore  gun!"  was  the  universal  exclamation. 

"  Let  them  have  another  !"  ejaculated  the  captain. 

The  gun  was  once  more  loaded  and  run  out,  and  again  opened 
its  hoarse  throat  to  its  mate  ashore.  This  was  replied  to  imme 
diately.  Being  now  tolerably  certain  of  the  brig's  position,  the 
order  was  given,  "  Hands  make  sail  !  Topmen  aloft,  and  loose 
top-gallant  sails  !  Overhaul  the  gear  of  courses  !  Brace  up  the 
main  yard  !" 

In  a  moment  the  brig  was  sliding  through  the  thick  shroud  of 
fog  in  the  direction  indicated  by  the  answering  gun  from  the 
land. 

"How  oppressive,  thick,  and  heavy,  is  this  fog!"  exclaimed 
the  surgeon.  "  To  make  use  of  a  Mid's.  expression,  you  might 
cut  it  with  a  hatchet." 

"  It  is  so,  indeed,"  observed  the  purser.  "Why,  one  can  not 
make  out  the  people  on  the  forecastle." 

The  brig  seemed  to  grope  its  way  onward  like  a  blind  man. 
As,  however,  the  roaring  of  the  port  gun  (increasing  in  strength) 
indicated  our  approach  to  the  iron-bound  coast  of  Nova  Scotia, 
we  felt  confident  in  our  course,  though  external  objects  were 
thickly  vailed  from  sight.  Louder  and  louder  grew  the  reports, 
till,  at  length,  one  explosion,  sounding  almost  overhead,  caused 
a  sensible  vibration  in  the  brig. 

Suddenly,  as  if  by  magic,  the  whole  scene  changed,  as  the 
bowsprit  and  forecastle  emerged  from  the  bank  of  fog,  and  drew 
out  into  bright  and  clear  sunshine.  In  a  moment  more  the 

L 


242  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLAME. 

vessel  was  clear,  as  if  in  a  new  world.  It  is  impossible  to  de 
scribe  the  enchantment  of  this  sudden  and  unexpected  change. 
Astern,  like  a  huge  and  dingy  cliff,  loomed  the  fog  bank  which 
had  so  long  enveloped  the  brig.  Even  the  breeze  appeared  to 
sympathize  with  the  exhilaration  of  the  crew,  and  freshen  con 
siderably. 

Our  vessel  now  darted  forward  with  great  speed,  quickly  gain 
ed  the  entrance  to  Halifax  harbor,  and  was  soon  comfortably 
anchored  off  the  dockyard  of  that  port. 


HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Blockading  Squadron  off  Alexandria — The  Egyptian  Fleet — A  longed-for 
"  Scrimmage" — Disappointment — Commotion  in  the  Midshipmen's  Berth 
— Attack  on  the  Caterer — Turbulent  Discussion — Signal  to  Quarters — 
Radical  Meeting — The  Caterer  Deposed — Anarchy — Alexandria  and 
Pompty's  Pillar — Monopolizing  System  of  the  Pasha — Her  Majesty's 
Ship  "Medea" — A  Steamer  a-fire — Explosion  of  a  Shell — Disastrous 
Consequences — The  Syrian  Gale — Casualties. 

BEAUTIFUL  to  behold  was  the  English  blockading  squadron  off 
Alexandria  in  November  ,1840.  During  several  weeks  six  huge 
two-deckers  "patrolled"  before  the  entrance  of  this  classic  port. 
The  weather  was  settled  and  delightful — the  sea  as  smooth  as 
a  sylvan  lake. 

The  Egyptian  fleet,  outnumbering  our  blockading  ships  three 
fold,  apparently  made  every  preparation  to  come  out  and  force 
the  blockade — a  manifestation  which  sometimes  proceeded  so  far 
that  their  royals  were  set  and  head-yards  braced  for  casting. 
This  looked  as  if  the  enemy  were  really  in  earnest,  and  caused 
most  intense  anxiety  on  our  part  for  the  fulfillment  of  what  was 
thus  threatened.  Snuffing-up  with  delight  the  gentle  breeze 
blowing  directly  out  of  port,  we  hugged  closely  and  in  compact 
line  of  battle,  the  hostile  shores  bristling  with  batteries. 


244  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 

Thousands  of  eyes  from  the  blockading  ships  were  directed 
toward  the  enemy's  movements.  In  that  magnificent  squadron 
there  was  not  one  man  who  would  not  joyfully  have  given  a 
year's  p£y  to  insure  the  longed-for  "  scrimmage."  But  it  was  not 
to  be  :  Mehemet  Ali  had  too  great  a  regard  for  the  safety  of  his 
ill-gotten  fleet ;  and  all  his  threatening  preparations  ended  in 
"  moonshine." 

Our  expectation  of  a  brush  with  the  Egyptians  being  thus 
disappointed,  an  unusual  portion  of  ill-humor  prevailed  afloat ; 
and,  as  if  no  additional  cause  for  grumbling  should  be  lacked, 
our  fresh  provisions  were  exhausted  by  the  prolongation  of  the 
blockade.  We  had,  consequently,  a  dreary  prospect  of  "  short 
commons  and  ennui." 

In  this  state  of  things,  not  much  surprise  was  felt  at  hearing 

that  the  midshipmen's  berth  in  the had  been  the  scene  of 

a  violent  commotion  on  the  part  of  the  "young  gentlemen,"  who 
were  aghast  on  finding  one  day  nothing  to  cover  their  ample 
table  but  four  scanty  dishes  of  salt  horse.  Midshipmen  are  not, 
in  general,  the  most  patient  or  reasonable  of  human  beings  ;  and, 
on  this  occasion,  the  anger  of  the  youngsters  in  question  was  un 
bounded,  and  could  scarcely  find  adequate  vent,  although  the 
maledictions  leveled  against  the  caterer  (who  unfortunately  for 
himself,  was  a  civilian)  were  exceedingly  ingenious  in  their 
variety,  including  some  choice  specimens  of  novel  vituperation, 
in  the  contrivance  of  which  sailors  surpass  every  class  of  men  on 
earth. 

When  downright  hunger  is  the  subject  of  debate,  the  sugges 
tions  of  reason  are  faint  indeed.  The  unfortunate  caterer  tried 
to  justify  his  administration  by  pleading  necessity,  and  by  urging 
every  other  argument  dictated  by  good  sense  and  prudence,  and 
warranted  by  truth.  All  was  of  no  avail :  borne  down  by  the 
clamor  of  the  middies,  he  took  refuge  in  the  sick-bay,  followed 
by  a  general  shout  of  "  Down  with  the  doctor's  mate  !"  No 


HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS  245 

starving  caterer !     Hurrah  for  a  radical  mess  !     Republics  for 
ever  !" 

Having  thus  compelled  the  flight  of  ^Esculapius  the  younger, 
a  very  turbulent  discussion  took  place  in  the  gun-room.  Many 
orators  rose  at  once — different  schemes  were  simultaneously  pro 
posed — all  were  speakers  and  no  hearers — every  one  declaimed 
with  peculiar  nautical  eloquence,  but  no  one  would  listen ;  and 
the  hubbub  and  the  din  were  bewildering  : 

"  Forthwith  a  hideous  gabble  rises  loud 
Among  the  speakers;   each  to  other  calls, 
Not  understood ;  till  hoarse,  and  all  in  rage, 
As  mock'd,  they  storm." 

MILTON. 

Suddenly,  however,  the  well-known  signal  to  quarters  was 
heard.  This,  in  an  instant,  stilled  the  tumult.  There  was  a 
quick  rush  to  the  door  ;  all  strove  and  scuffled  to  get  rapidly  to 
their  stations  in  different  parts  of  the  vessel ;  and,  in  an  in 
credibly  short  time,  the  ship,  a  huge  eighty,  was  cleared  as  if  for 
action.  Her  magnificent  lower  deck  showed  to  great  advantage  a 
formidable  row  of  sixty-eight  and  thirty-two  pound  guns,  maimed 
by  a  crew  in  a  perfect  state  of  discipline.  Well  might  an  En 
glishman  be  proud  of  that  ship,  and  of  her  efficiency.  She 
was  a  counterpart  in  order  and  discipline  of  nearly  every  one 
of  the  Mediterranean  fleet,  which,  at  that  time,  consisted  of 
seventeen  sail  of  the  line.  Never  before  had  England  so  well- 
equipped  and  efficient  a  fleet  at  sea. 

After  quarters,  a  meeting  of  the  radical  portion  of  mates  and 
Mids.  was  held  on  the  fore  part  of  the  main-deck,  to  take  into 
consideration  what  measures  should  be  adopted  toward  a  reform 
of  the  mess.  As  a  preliminary,  it  was  put  to  the  vote  that  "the 
doctor's  mate  be  deposed." 

This  was  carried  by  acclamation  ;  but  so  wide  was  the  differ 
ence  of  opinion  touching  the  other  proposed  resolutions,  that  none 


246  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 


of  them  were  approved,  and  not  even  a  successor  was  named  to 
the  former  caterer.  Nothing,  therefore,  could  ensue  but  perfect 
independence  and  liberty,  delightfully  evidenced  the  next  time 
the  mess  sat  down  to  dinner,  when  potatoes,  books,  junks  of  salt 
horse,  &rc.,  did  duty  as  missiles,  and  were  hurled  across  the  table 
from  the  hand  of  one  to  the  head  of  another,  as  a  pleasant 
arid  graceful  fancy  might  dictate.  Every  member  of  the  com 
pany  seemed  resolved,  by  exhibiting  his  individual  proficiency, 
to  justify  the  old  injunction — "Go  to  sea  and  learn  manners." 

All  this  was  vastly  agreeable  for  a  time,  until  it  was  discov 
ered  that  the  viands  were  frequently  waylaid  on  their  road  to  the 
gun-room  dinner-table;  and  then  it  was  suspected  that  "radical 
institutions,"  however  specious  in  their  origin,  might  possibly  not 
promote  the  comfort  of  communities,  and  that  disorder,  however 
fascinating  in  itself,  was  not  altogether  free  from  inconveniences. 
Be  this  as  it  may,  it  is  certain  that  the  poor  republican  middies 
were  half  starved,  and  that  their  democratic  leaders  grew  pro 
portionately  plump. 

We  shall  see  by-and-by  that  the  old  march  from  rebellion  to 
despotism  was  repeated  in  the  instance  before  us.  At  present, 
however,  other  matters  claim  our  attention. 

One  morning  the  squadron  in  line  of  battle  was  standing  to 
the  northward.  Longing  eyes  were  fixed  on  the  classic  city  of 
Alexandria,  about  five  miles  under  the  lee.  Pompey's  Pillar 
(improperly  thus  called),  defying  the  wear  of  ages,  attracted  the 
curiosity  and  admiration  of  officers  and  men.  The  next  con- 
spicous  object  which  excited  the  attention  of  the  numerous 
lookers-on  in  the  squadron  was  the  Schuna,  or  range  of  ware 
houses  for  the  reception  of  the  surplus  produce  of  Egypt. 

According  to  the  Pasha's  monopolizing  system,  the  entire 
growth  of  the  country  comes  into  his  hands  at  prices  fixed  by 
himself,  and  the  grower  is  not  permitted  to  resort  to  other 
markets.  Not  only  does  this  restriction  apply  to  the  commodi- 


HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS.  247 

ties  of  Egypt,  but  to  those  of  adjacent  countries  wherever  the 
Pasha's  influence  extends  embracing  the  coffee  of  Mocha,  the 
gums  and  drugs  of  Arabia,  the  tobacco  of  Syria,  feathers  from 
the  interior,  elephants'  teeth,  &c. ;  all  of  which  are  purchased 

for  him  in  the  first  instance. 

t 

Thus  did  the  wily  Mehemet  Ali  combine  the  tyranny  of  the 
ancient  time  with  the  commercial  spirit  of  the  present  day. 

With  the  admirable  spy-glasses  in  the the  most  minute 

objects  could  be  perceived  on  the  enemy's  batteries.  An  English 
line-of-battle  ship  is  better  supplied  with  these  instruments  than 
the  shore-going  reader  can  imagine.  The  most  costly  glasses  are 
"plenty  as  blackberries."  The  author  possessed  at  that  time  a 
capital  Dollond,  which  was  supposed  to  be  absolute  perfection, 
and  yet  this  glass  having  recently  undergone  the  process  of 
"  illuminating"  by  Mr.  Knight  of  Southampton,  has  been  im 
proved  thirty-three  per  cent.  A  knowledge  of  this  is  of  obvious 
importance  to  naval  officers. 

To  seaward,  and  about  five  miles  to  windward,  was  her 
Majesty's  steam-ship  "  Medea"  under  easy  sail  without  steam. 
Slowly  and  majestically  did  our  huge  leviathans  of  the  deep 
pursue  their  course  in  such  close  and  compact  order,  that  to  an 
uninitiated  observer  they  would  appear  in  dangerous  proximity. 
The  mate  of  the forecastle,  perched  upon  the  Jacob's  lad 
der  of  the  fore-rigging,  noted  the  wide  difference  in  the  sailing 
qualities  of  the  squadron,  and  hugged  himself,  with  a  sailor's 
glee,  in  the  conviction  that  the ,  with  only  her  three  top 
sails,  could  easily  preserve  her  station,  while  the  vast  machine 
ahead,  with  double  the  sail  on  her,  could  hardly  keep  her  hinder 
parts  clear. 

Suddenly  the  order  was  given,  "  after-guard  and  mizen-top 
men,  trim  sails!  Square  the  cross-jack  yard  !" 

The  yards  were  instantly  squared — the  giant  ship  felt  the 
check  and  gradually  increased  the  distance  (somewhat  too  short) 


248  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 


from  the  vessel  ahead.  The  mate's  triumphant  smile  at  this 
clear  proof  of  his  pet  ship's  speed  was  changed  by  the  boatswain 

exclaiming  "  Mr. ,  there's  summut  to  do  now,  I'll  bet  my 

seven-bell  tot.  Look  at  the  flagship's  buntin'  a-going  up.  I'm 
blest,  but  the  steamer's  a-fire  !" 

This  was  too  true.  On  glancing  to  windward,  smoke  appeared 
issuing  from  the  steamer,  though  her  boilers  were  not  in  use. 
Simultaneously  the  answering  pennants  of  all  the  ships  were 
running  up  to  the  commodore's  signal,  "  Boats  to  proceed  to 
assistance  of  ship  in  distress  !" 

The  ponderous  yards  were  instantly  squared,  and  the  two- 
deckers  which  before  appeared  calm,  silent,  and  almost  sluggish, 
were  now,  as  if  by  magic  transformed  into  the  most  intense 

activity.  In  a  few  minutes,  the  barge  and  pinnance  of  the 

were  suspended  high  in  air :  a  succession  of  loud  splashes  an 
nounced  the  reception  by  Mother  Ocean  of  these  boats  and  the 
two  cutters  ;  and,  a  moment  after,  thirty  or  forty  other  boats 
belonging  to  the  squadron  were  pulling  as  if  for  life,  in  the 
direction  of  the  steamer.  A  double  stimulus  actuated  the  crews  : 
not  only  did  they  desire  to  outrun  the  boats  belonging  to  their 
own  ships,  but  were  tenfold  more  desirous  to  get  ahead  of  the 
boats  of  others. 

The  mate  (to  whom  allusion  has  already  been  made)  being  in 
the  barge,  and  having  seen  every  thing  to  rights  in  his  boat, 
turned  round  to  look  at  the  ships.  They  were  now  under  a 
cloud  of  canvas,  striving,  by  beating  to  windward,  to  approach 
the  unfortunate  steamer.  His  delight,  and  that  of  the  boat's 
crew,  was  extreme,  to  see  their  ship  gradually  draw  away  from 
and  distance  the  rest,  as  though  they  were  at  anchor. 

As  they  approached  the  steamer,  all  sorts  of  conjectures  were 
hazarded.  It  certainly  appeared  very  strange  that  both  ensign 
and  pennant  were  flying,  as  if  nothing  had  happened.  At  length 
she  was  reached,  boarded,  and  the  cause  discovered. 


HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS.  249 


It  appeared  that  a  gunner's  mate  or  bombardier  had  been 
screwing,  or  unscrewing,  the  cap  of  a  shell-fuse  ;  the  composition 
had  ignited,  and  the  shell,  of  course,  exploded.  As,  at  the  mo 
ment,  it  was  quite  impossible  to  know  what  effect  this  might 
have  on  the  magazine,  the  signal  of  distress  had  been  made.  A 
better  idea  of  the  effect  of  these  destructive  projectiles  can  not 
be  given  than  in  describing  the  scene  at  this  moment  below  the 
deck  of  the  "Medea." 

The  shell  had  burst  on  the  lower  deck,  just  above  the  shell- 
room,  killing  the  unfortunate  bombardier  who  had  meddled  with 
the  fuse-cap.  The  explosion  had  thrown  down  all  the  bulk 
heads  from  the  captain's  cabin  to  the  boilers ;  several  planks  in 
the  upper-deck  were  forced  up  ;  and  a  large  mass  of  the  shell,  ap 
parently  two  pounds  in  weight,  had  half  buried  itself  in  an  upper- 
deck  beam.  Some  of  the  poor  victim's  brains  were  scattered 
against  an  officer's  book-shelves,  and  several  men  were  wounded. 
One  extraordinary  escape  deserves  notice.  An  officer  was  driven 
up  the  skylight,  and  found  himself  on  deck  unhurt. 

The  vessel  was  now  surrounded  by  boats,  and  the  decks  were 
crowded  with  officers,  all  congratulating  the  "  Medeas"  on  their 
extraordinary  and  providential  escape. 

The  above,  however,  was  not  the  only  instance  of  fool-hardy 
carelessness  in  the  squadron.  A  few  days  previously,  the  gun- 
iiery-lieutenant  of  one  of  the  line-of-battle  ships  had  occupied 
himself  during  church-time  in  doing  the  self-same  thing  on  the 
orlop-deck,  exactly  under  the  spot  where  the  mass  of  the  ship's 
company  were  assembled  for  divine  worship — an  unconscious 
Guy  Fawkes.  It  makes  one  shudder  to  think  of  the  dreadful 
carnage  which  must  have  ensued  had  an  ignition  similar  to  that  on 
board  the  steamer  taken  place.  And,  by  a  curious  coincidence, 
on  the  arrival  in  England  of  a  report  of  the  "  Medea's"  disaster, 
another  poor  man  was  killed  in  trying  the  same  experiment. 
Precautions  are  now  adopted  to  prevent  accidents  of  the  Kke  nature. 


250  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 

Soon  after  the  above  occurrence  we  had  a  taste  of  the  cele 
brated  Syrian  gale,  which  lasted  several  days.  The  motion 
produced  by  it  was  no  trifle.  It  has  been  the  lot  of  the  present 
writer  to  make  acquaintance  with  heavy  gales  and  furious  seas 
in  all  parts  of  the  globe.  He  has  been  in  a  cutter  near  Cape 
Horn  ;  in  a  small  yacht  in  the  Pentland  Firth,  the  Sunburg 
Roost,  and  the  Race  of  Alderney  ;  but  the  worst  tossing  he  ever 
remembers  was  in  this  very  gale,  and  in  this  large  two-decker. 
As  a  specimen  of  the  extreme  violence  of  the  motion,  a  lee-lurch 
submerged  the  muzzle  of  a  forecastle  gun,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
jerked  the  carriage  up  oft'  the  deck.  At  the  precise  time  this 
movement  occurred,  a  seaman  fell  from  the  weather-side,  slid 
rapidly  down,  and  was  entrapped  (on  the  weather-roll  of  the 
ship)  by  the  gun-carriage  falling  down  upon  his  legs  :  his  thigh 
was  broken.  Perhaps  this  excessive  violence  of  motion  may  be 
partly  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that,  a  few  minutes  prior  to  the 
above  accident,  the  close-reefed  main-topsail  was  blown  clean 
out  of  the  bolt-ropes  ;  the  main-staysail  shared  the  same  fate  in 
setting ;  consequently  the  ship  for  a  time  was  without  any  sail 
whatever. 


CHAPTER   II. 

Bay  of  Marmorice — Rebellion  in  the  Midshipmen's  Mess — Election  of  a  new 
Caterer — Vote  by  Ballot — The  successful  Candidate — His  despotic  Views 
— Committee  of  Appeal — A  Coup  d'etat — Struggle  for  Authority — The 
Dictator's  Triumph — A  Discussion — Plot  to  Maintain  "Order" — Its 
Success — Eradication  of  a  bad  Habit — The  Irish  Mate  and  the  Omelet 
— Stale  Eggs — Paddy  doubly  Fined — Eventual  Prosperity  of  the  Mess. 

As  soon  as  the  gale  moderated,  we  bore  up  for  the  Bay  of 
Marmorice,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  mates  and  middies, 
who  looked  forward  with  delight  to  what  they  called  "  a  full- 
bellied  place."  In  a  few  days  the  squadron  was  snugly  moored 
in  the  above  magnificent  harbor  of  Asia  Minor  ;  but,  to  the 
infinite  annoyance  of  the  hungry  expectants,  the  first  day  passed 
without  the  savory  additions  they  looked  for.  This  again  raised 
in  the  mess  the  spirit  of  rebellion,  which  was  only  dormant,  not 
dead.  Loud  and  angry  were  the  complaints  ;  but  when  the 
second  and  third  days  passed  with  like  scarcity,  the  empty,  and 
therefore  furious  stomachs  broke  out  again  into  open  and  violent 
revolution. 

Peremptory  calls  were  now  made  for  universal  suffrage,  and 
vote  by  ballot,  to  elect  a  caterer  who  would  administer  to  popular 
wants.  But  even  in  the  prosecution  of  their  own  designs  the 
agitators  made  so  desperate  a  tumult,  that,  for  half  an  hour  no 
thing  could  be  heard.  The  old  difficulty  in  effecting  a  change 
of  things  was  therefore  renewed. 

At  length,  to  the  disgust  of  the  universal-suffrage  men,  the 
franchise  was  limited  to  those  who  had  been  two  years  at  sea, 


252  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 

Though  at  first  denounced  as  an  illiberal  restriction,  this  was 
ultimately  confirmed,  especially  as,  by  a  compromise  between  the 
parties,  the  ballot  was  ordained  as  the  mode  of  voting. 

The  election  immediately  took  place,  and  the  elder  members 
of  the  mess  pledged  themselves  to  accept  the  office,  if  chosen. 
On  examining  the  ballot-box,  it  appeared  that  the  majority  of 
votes  had  fallen  on  an  old  mate  of  some  sagacity,  who  at  once 
perceived  that  to  keep  thirty  riotous  messmates  of  all  ages  in  any 
degree  of  order,  it  was  necessary  to  possess  extraordinary  author 
ity  ;  the  former  amount  of  privilege  was  clearly  not  sufficient. 
Cromwell  had  more  irresponsible  power  than  Charles  whom  he 
deposed  for  imputed  tyranny.  Why,  then,  should  not  our  old 
mate  strive  to  imitate  Cromwell's  example  ? 

"Well  gentlemen,"  said  the  newly-elected  ruler,  "you  have, 
it  seems,  elected  me  caterer  of  the  mess." 

"To  be  sure  we  have,"  was  responded,  with  loud  cheers. 

"  You  know,"  continued  the  old  mate,  "  that  you  are  a  very 
difficult  set  to  keep  in  order." 

"  Yes,  yes,  we  know  that,"  replied  the  young  gentlemen  ; 
"  but  we  want  a  good  mess.  Our  constitution  has  been  per 
verted.  Reform  !  reform  !" 

"Well,  then,"  pursued  the  mate,  looking  as  if  his  brain  were 
full  of  schemes  for  the  general  good,  "  if  I  am  to  be  caterer,  I 
must  have  extra  powers." 

"By  all  means,"  was  universally  responded.  "Any  powers 
you  like,  as  long  as  we  have  lots  of  grub." 

"  Well,  but  I  must  be  despotic,"  urged  the  mate.  "  I  must 
exercise  the  privilege  of  levying  fines  whenever,  and  for  what 
ever  I  please.  My  word  must  be  law,  against  which  there  can 
be  no  appeal." 

"We  consent  that  it  shall  be  so,"  replied  the  middies.  "Do 
you  stipulate  for  any  thing  else  ?" 

"  No,"  answered  the  mate  ;  "  and  to  show  you  my  liberality. 


HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS.  253 

I  will  grant  you  a  tribunal,  to  be  elected  by  myself,  to  which 
you  may  appeal  against  my  decisions  whenever  you  may  hold 
them  to  be  unjust." 

"  Hurrah,  hurrah  !  the  new  caterer  forever  !"  was  vociferated 
by  the  assembly. 

"  Gentlemen,"  continued  the  mate,  "I  name  as  the  Committee 
of  Appeal,  Brown,  Barry,  Jones,  and  Robinson;  myself  president." 

"  Bravo  !"  was  shouted.     "  Can't  be  better." 

"  The  committee,  however,"  added  the  mate,  "  must  not  be 
called  together  for  nothing.  If  any  one  appeal  to  it,  a  bottle  of 
champagne  will  be  drunk,  and  either  the  appealer  or  the  mess 
must  pay  for  it,  as  the  committee  may  decide." 

This,  being  considered  a  violent  stretch  of  absolutism,  excited 
the  first  symptoms  of  dissent.  Much  confusion  prevailed  in  the 
meeting,  amidst  which  arose  exclamations  of  "  Oh,  ah  !  You 
are  carrying  things,  you  know,  with  rather  too  high  a  hand  ! 
'T won't  do.  We  shall  be  worse  off  than  ever.  So  much  for  a 
protector  /" 

The  caterer  saw  that  the  time  had  arrived  when  it  became 
necessary  he  should  strike  a  decided  blow ;  his  newly-assumed 
authority  was  at  stake  ;  it  must  perish,  or  be  enforced  by  a  coup 
d'etat.  He  resolved,  therefore,  to  take  the  first  opportunity  that 
might  present  itself  of  bringing  things  to  an  issue.  This  was 
speedily  afforded  by  one  of  the  youngsters,  nick-named  "  Cheeky," 
shying  his  cap  at  another  across  the  table. 

"Mr.  Cheeky;"  said  the  caterer,  rising,  and  looking  very 
solemnly.  "  I  commence  the  duties  of  my  office,  by  fining  you 
one  shilling  for  shying  your  cap  at  Mr.  Kilderbee's  head."  (Im 
mense  uproar,  laughter,  and  cheers.) 

"I'll  see  you  hanged,"  said  the  offender,  "before  I  pay  any 
fine.  I  appeal  to  the  committee." 

"  Bring  a  bottle  of  champagne  !"  exclaimed  the  caterer. 
"Gentlemen  of  the  committee,  you  hear  the  appeal.  Please  to 


254  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 

arrange  yourselves  round  this  end  of  the  table."  Then,  address 
ing  the  steward,  he  added,  "  Holmes,  produce  the  glasses." 

A  dead  silence  prevailed.  The  "young  gentlemen"  perceived 
that  the  reform  for  which  they  had  clamored  was  carried  beyond 
what  they  had  bargained  for.  The  bottle  and  glasses  were 
brought,  and  the  whole  mess  assembled  round  the  "board," 
wondering  what  would  come  next. 

Filling  up  the  five  glasses  for  the  committee,  the  old  mate 
looked  smilingly  round.  He  well  knew  the  great  struggle  for 
authority  had  commenced.  Should  he,  on  this  occasion  be  suc 
cessfully  opposed,  the  mess  would  once  more,  and  forever,  be  dis 
organized. 

"  Gentlemen,"  said  he,  "  I  drink  this  wine  at  somebody's  ex 
pense,  not  my  own,  to  a  just  decision  of  the  committee — to  a 
good  and  vigorous  government  of  the  mess,  and  to  abundance  of 
savory  dishes  for  us  all."  (Great  cheering.)  Then  turning  to 
the  committee,  "  Gentlemen,"  pursued  he,  "you  have  been  pres 
ent  at  the  whole  scene.  Is  Mr.  Cheeky  fined  justly  or  not  ?" 

"  We  approve  !  we  approve  !"  simultaneously  shouted  the 
committee. 

"  Then,  Mr.  Cheeky,"  persisted  the  caterer,  "  you  are  not  only 
fined  one  shilling,  but  are  amerced  also  in  the  cost  of  this  cham 
pagne.  Holmes,  put  the  wine  down  to  Mr.  Cheeky's  account." 

This  sentence  excited  uproarious  applause,  accompanied  by 
derisive  cries,  such  as,  "  Halloa,  Mr.  Cheeky,  how  does  the  wine 
taste  ?"  "  Cheeky  and  champagne  !" 

The  victim  lifted  up  his  voice  in  indignant  remonstrance ;  but 
it  was  speedily  drowned  by  the  shouts  and  screams  of  the  whole 
mess,  and  the  old  mate,  under  the  plea  of  maintaining  "  order," 
safely  achieved  the  first  step  on  the  road  to  despotism. 

The  news  of  so  "  strong  a  government"  in  the  midshipmen's 
mess,  flew  like  wildfire  through  the  ship.  The  champagne- 
punishment  received  abundance  of  comments,  and  the  unlucky 


HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS.  255 

offender  was  greeted  wherever  he  went  with  mock  commiseration 
and  ironical  questions. 

Meanwhile,  the  infliction,  which  not  only  covered  the  trans 
gressor  with  ridicule,  but  invaded  his  pocket,  produced  a  marvel 
ous  effect.  The  old  mate  now  took  care  that  the  table  should 
be  well  spread.  Some  degree  of  regularity  was  soon  attained, 
and,  the  first  time  for  weeks,  the  mess-table  could  boast  of  decency 
and  decorum. 

The  members  of  the  committee  had  been  wisely  chosen  ;  they 
were  the  elite  of  the  mess,  and  determined  to  uphold  the  caterer. 
There  was  something  that  prodigiously  tickled  their  fancies  in 
legislating  to  the  taste  of  champagne ;  they  had  seen,  more 
over,  the  beneficial  effects  of  the  initial  measure  of  the  new  au 
thority. 

At  first  the  old  mate  took  especial  care  to  bring  forward  only 
glaring  cases,  and  to  pounce  exclusively  on  those  who  had  little 
or  no  influence  aboard. 

Brown  and  the  caterer  were  walking  the  deck  one  night,  when 
their  conversation  turned  on  the  reformed  government  of  the 
mess. 

"  I  do  not  think,"  said  the  former,  "  that  you  will  be  able  to 
carry  out  your  plans  with  the  committee." 

"  Why  not  ?"  demanded  the  old  mate. 

"  Because,  when  I  was  in  the  Rodney"  replied  Brown,  "  old 
Parker  sent  for  several  of  the  seniors  of  the  mess  and  tried  to 
form  them  into  a  committee.  But  it  did  not  answer.  If,  there 
fore,  such  a  body  failed  under  the  auspices  of  so  mighty  a  man 
as  the  captain  of  a  line-of-battle  ship,  how  can  yours  hope  to  suc 
ceed  ?" 

"  I'll  tell  you,"  replied  the  mate  ;  "  old  Parker,  although  a 
very  'cute  hand,  did  not  take  the  right  steps.  He  ought  to  have 
chosen  one  person,  such  as  yourself,  and  then  desired  him  to 
form  a  committee.  If  five  men  are  told  to  do  any  thing,  nothing 


256  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 

will  be  done.  A  committee  is  helpless  without  a  head.  I  wish 
to  have  a  '  board'  merely  to  back  my  authority — nothing  more." 

"Nevertheless,"  responded  Brown,  "I  think  you  will  fail." 

"You  may  depend  on  it  I  shall  not  fail,"  replied  the  mate, 
"  and  for  two  good  reasons ;  first,  that  I  shall  carry  on  my  meas 
ures  with  perfect  good  temper  ;  and  secondly,  that  the  majority 
are  for  order,  a  word  which,  according  to  their  definition,  means 
lashings  of  good  beef-steaks  with^a  yellow  selvage  to  them." 

Though  the  mess  rapidly  improved,  our  caterer  perceived  that 
rocks  were  in  the  way,  to  steer  clear  of  which  required  skillful 
management.  A  principal  obstacle  was  the  high  tone  of  some  of 
the  senior  and  stronger  of  the  mess,  who  now  began  to  consider 
themselves  privileged.  As  yet,  the  old  mate  had  not  thought  it 
advisable  to  bring  them  to  book  ;  but  as  such  a  course  would 
soon  become  absolutely  necessary  on  account  of  the  growing  dis 
satisfaction  of  the  weaker  members,  and  in  order  to  promote  the 
"  public  good,"  he  determined  in  future  to  pay  no  respect  to  per 
sons. 

One  evening  a  large  smoking-party  had  assembled  on  the  port 
side  of  the  main  deck  forward  ;  the  chief  topic  of  discourse  was 
"  Cheeky"  and  the  champagne-forfeiture.  Our  old  mate  listened 
to  the  observations,  and  set  his  wits  to  work  to  gain  his  end. 

Among  the  most  jocose  of  the  company,  was  Barry,  a  tall, 
Herculean  mate,  good-tempered  and  popular,  but  extremely  fond 
of  having  his  own  way.  He  was,  moreover,  invested  with  the 
dignity  of  a  committee-man.  This  was  the  instrument  our  wily 
caterer  determined  to  get  hold  of  to  consolidate  permanently  his 
power  in  the  mess. 

The  party  having  separated,  our  two  friends  were  left  alone  ; 
and  the  caterer  soon  discovered,  that  though  Barry  was  favora 
ble  to  the  new  order  of  things,  he  was  not  aware  of  the  dangers 
ahead.  Having  advised  him  of  these,  the  old  mate  said  sud 
denly, 


HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS.  257 

"  The  only  way,  Barry,  to  keep  our  big  fellows  in  any  order  is 
to  fine  you  heavily." 

"Fine  me?"  echoed  Barry.  "  Come,  I  like  that.  What  am 
I  to  be  fined  for?" 

"Why,"  replied  his  companion,  "you  are  the  biggest  and 
strongest  in  the  mess,  and  nearly  the  senior.  If  I  fine  you,  and 
you  pay  without  a  murmur,  no  one  will  dare  resist." 

"  Not  a  bad  idea,"  returned  Barry.  "  But  it  depends,  you 
know,  on  the  amount.  What  sum  do  you  propose  ?" 

"  A  mere  nothing,"  was  responded  ;  "  only  a  dollar  and  a  bot 
tle  of  champagne." 

"The  devil!"  ejaculated  Barry.  "Do  you  call  that  no 
thing  ?  Why,  it  will  cost  eight  shillings  and  eightpence." 

"Never  mind,"  said  the  old  mate;  "I'll  deduct  it  from  your 
mess-money  at  the  end  of  the  month,  and  charge  it  in  the  ac 
counts  as  secret-service  money." 

"  Ha,  ha  !  capital.     I'll  do  it,  by  Jove  !"  declared  Barry. 

"Very  wrell,"  rejoined  the  old  mate;  "but  mind  you  don't 
laugh  when  I  charge  you,  as  I  mean  to  do,  in  the  middle  of  din 
ner  to-morrow." 

"What  offense  shall  I  commit?"  demanded  Barry. 

"Let  me  see,"  responded  the  caterer.  "I  have  it.  There  is 
a  bad  habit  among  us  of  leaving  cocked-hat  boxes,  dirks,  and 
swords,  kicking  about  the  mess-table.  Leave  one  of  your  boxes 
there  to-morrow.  I  will  do  the  rest." 

The  following  day  a  hat-box  appeared  on  the  table,  just  as  the 
mess  were  sitting  down  to  dinner. 

"  Gentlemen,"  said  the  caterer,  "  this  nuisance  has  become 
intolerable.  You  all  must  see  the  necessity  of  abating  it  :  an 
example  shall  be  made.  The  owner  of  this  box  shall  pay  the 
piper,  and  no  mistake.  I  care  not  who  he  is.  He's  fined  a 
dollar.  To  whom  does  this  box  belong  ?" 

After  some  hesitation,  Barry,  in  a  low  voice  replied  : 


258  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 

"  I  believe  it's  mine." 

"  Oh,  ah  !"  was  the  general  cry.  "  He  won't  pay  !  he's  too 
big!"  "  Yes,  he  shall !"  "  No,  he  shan't  !  "  Shame,  shame  !" 
"  Down  with  all  tyranny  !"  "  Oh  !  that  infernal  caterer  !" 

When,  however,  Barry  rose  to  reply,  the  utmost  silence  pre 
vailed.  Every  one  was  anxious  to  see  what  he  would  do,  and 
all  were  ready  to  take  the  cue  from  him. 

"  Gentlemen,"  said  he  "  I  acknowledge  my  error.  I  bow  to 
the  judgment  of  the  caterer." 

Such  a  reply  from  a  man  of  his  known  influence  and  personal 
prowess,  excited  astonishment,  heightened  by  the  caterer  saying  : 

"  Sir.  as  you  are  a  member  of  the  committee  I  fine  you,  in  ad 
dition  to  the  dollar,  a  bottle  of  champagne." 

This  little  trick  had  a  great  effect,  and  assisted  materially  in 
reducing  the  rness  to  order. 

Our  caterer  had  to  eradicate  another  bad  habit  into  which  the 
strong  members  of  the  mess  had  fallen,  namely,  of  sending  the 
servants  on.  trivial  errands,  such  as  "  How  is  the  wind  ?"  "  What 
sail  have  we  set  ?"  and  so  forth.  Too  glad  to  make  this  an 
excuse  for  absenting  themselves  from  the  duty  of  the  mess,  the 
servants,  in  attempting  to  justify  their  fault  would  say  : 

"  Why,  Sir,  we  were  ordered  to  go  :  we  dared  not  refuse — we 
must  obey  orders  from  our  superior." 

Such  excuses  were  unanswerable :  but  it  was  impossible  not  to 
see  that  the  general  business  of  the  mess  was  retarded  by  so  idle 
a  practice,  and  that  it  interfered  with  the  comfortable  prepara 
tion  of  the  meals.  The  steward  complained  bitterly,  and  de 
clared  the  work  could  not  be  done  while  the  time  of  the  servants 
was  so  invaded. 

The  old  mate  was  rather  puzzled  at  first  in  attempting  to  de 
vise  remedial  measures  ;  but  at  length  he  determined  how  to  act. 
Calling  all  the  servants  together,  he  informed  them  that,  although 
they  were  bound  to  obey  the  orders  of  their  superior  officers,  yet, 


HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS.  259 

as  caterer,  and  having  command  of  the  mess-funds,  he  would  stop 
a  shilling  out  of  their  private  pay  every  time  they  absented  them 
selves  on  any  pretense  whatever ;  and  that  whoever  informed 
against  them  should  have  half  the  fine,  and  go  ashore  in  the 
•beef-boat  to  market  to  spend  the  gratuity. 

A  few  minutes  after  this  regulation  was  made,  a  huge  Irish 
mate  cried  out  : 

"  Holmes,  run  up  the  galley  and  make  me  an  omelet." 
"  Please,  Sir,"  said  Holmes,   "  if  I  goes  to  the  galley  I  shall 
be  fined  one  shilling." 

"Obey  orders,"  retorted  Paddy.     "Go  directly." 
Away  started  Holmes  to  the  galley  with  half-a-dozen  eggs.     In 
a  second,  one  of  the  boys  rushed  into  the  gun-room  and  informed 
against  him. 

"  Steward,"  said  the  caterer,  "  Let  Tom  go  ashore  to-morrow 
morning  with  you  in  the  market-boat.  Here,  boy,  is  your  six 
pence." 

Poor  Holmes  was  immoderately  laughed  at  by  the  other  serv 
ants,  and  was  persuaded  to  tell  the  Irish  mate  how  he  had  been 
mulct.  Paddy  was  bound  in  honor  to  repay  him.  This  getting 
wind  caused  many  jeers  at  the  Hibernian's  expense. 

"  Why,  Paddy,"  said  one,  "  I  could  get  a  message  taken  from 
Cumberland  Gate,  Hyde  Park,  to  the  Bank  for  a  shilling." 

"  Oh,  Paddy,  my  boy!"  exclaimed  another,  "twopence  a  piece 
for  eggs  is  dear  carriage  to  the  galley." 

"  I  say,  Paddy,"  observed  a  third,  "  I  could  ride  ten  miles  in  a 
buss  with  a  bushel  of  eggs  for  a  shiiling." 

'•  Go  to  blazes  with  you  all !"  vociferated  Paddy  ;  "I  wish  the 
eggs  were  rotten  and  down  your  cursed  throats." 

Either  out  of  devilment,  or  by  chance,  the  eggs  were  very  stale 
indeed.  When,  therefore,  they  appeared  smoking  hot  in  the 
shape  of  an  omelet,  the  bad  odor  was  so  evident  that  all  hands 
were  obliged  to  hold  all  noses.  This  speedily  attracted  a  host 


260  HOW  TO  GOVERN  A  MIDSHIPMAN'S  MESS. 

of  Paddy's  uproarious  messmates,  who,  delighted  that  his  wish 
was  partly  fulfilled,  hovered  about  him  like  gnats,  and  stung  him 
with  unwelcome  jests.  His  patience  at  last  became  quite  ex 
hausted  ;  and,  with  an  unpronounceable  Irish  oath,  he  flung  the 
tainted  morsel  in  their  faces.  This  made  them  frantic  with  joy. 
Uttering  screams  of  delight,  they  immediately  demanded  that  he 
should  be  fined  a  dollar. 

As  this  was  but  fair,  the  old  mate,  who  had  all  the  time  been 
egging  on  the  tormentors,  and  was,  moreover,  enjoying  the  suc 
cess  of  his  ruse,  issued  his  edict  as  was  in  that  case  made  and 
provided. 

Still  burning  with  rage,  the  Irishman  swore  by  all  the  powers 
he  wouldn't  pay  a  farthing  more  than  the  shilling,  and  concluded 
by  appealing  to  the  committee  ;  which,  meeting  on  the  following 
day,  confirmed  the  fine  ;  so  that  poor  Paddy  was  compelled  to 
pay  the  dollar,  and  also  to  supply  a  bottle  of  champagne  as  the 
price  of  his  appeal. 

The  old  mate's  dictatorship  was  now  thoroughly  confirmed  ; 
and  the  mess  in  a  short  time  was  not  only  in  admirable  order, 
but  became  very  rich. 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Occupation  of  the  Falklands — Report  of  the  Commissioners  for  1846 — 
Royal  Indenture — Population — Captain  Sulivan's  Expedition — Govern 
ment  Aid — Facilities  offered  to  Mariners  by  the  Falklands — Climate  of 
the  Islands — Anson's  erroneous  Statements — Tussock-grass — Prodigious 
Increase  of  Cattle — Robberies  on  the  Cattle-stations — Method  of  pre 
venting  this  Pillage — Frauds  on  Underwriters — Marvelous  Abundance 
of  wild  Horses — Port  Stanley. 

As  the  spring-tide  of  emigration  appears  to  have  set  strongly 
toward  the  colonial  possessions  of  Great  Britain,  it  may  not,  per 
haps,  be  superfluous,  by  way  of  introduction  to  the  following 
sketches,  to  give  a  brief  summary  of  prominent  circumstances 
connected  with  the  Falkland  Islands  since  they  were  first  occu 
pied  by  an  English  governor  (Lieutenant  Moody),  whose  appoint 
ment  took  place  in  1842,  to  which  year  the  birth  of  the  colony 
may  be  assigned.  Soon  after  the  governor's  arrival,  the  intended 
site  of  the  principal  town  was  changed  from  Port  Louis,  at  the 
head  of  Berkeley  Sound,  to  Port  Stanley,  as  a  more  convenient 
spot  at  which  passing  ships  might  call,  when  in  need  of  repair 
or  victualing. 

For  some  time,  however,  the  infant  colony  languished  for 
want  of  maternal  care :  the  government  expenditure  on  its  be 
half  barely  sufficed  to  keep  life  within  it.  Still,  though  the 


262  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

islands  were  not  so  fortunate  as  to  excite  interest  in  England,  it 
was  far  otherwise  on  the  adjacent  coasts  of  South  America.  The 
English  merchants  residing  in  the  latter  country,  actuated  by  the 
keen  foresight  and  enterprise  of  their  nation,  wisely  turned  their 
attention  toward  the  only  spot  of  land,  within  thousands  of  miles, 
that  hoisted  the  British  standard ;  and  one  of  these  merchant- 
princes  immediately  took  steps  to  make  an  agreement  with  gov 
ernment  to  purchase  a  large  extent  of  territory  in  the  Falklands. 

The  following  condensed  extract  from  the  report  of  the  Colonial 
Land  and  Emigration  Commissioners  for  1846,  will  give  the 
material  parts  of  the  agreement.  It  is  a  curious  and  interesting 
document. 

"  1st.  Indenture,  made  the  16th  day  of  March,  1846,  between 
her  most  gracious  Majesty  dueen  Victoria,  of  the  one  part,  and 
Samuel  Fisher  Lafone,  of  Montevideo  in  South  America,  mer 
chant,  of  the  other  part.  Her  Majesty  dueen  Victoria  sells  to 
Lafone  that  part  of  East  Falkland  lying  south  of  the  isthmus  in 
Choiseul  Sound.  Also  the  islands  in  Choiseul  Sound,  and  all 
other  islands  adjacent  to  the  coast  purchased ;  also  Beauchene 
Island  ;  also  one  town  allotment  of  half  an  acre,  and  one  subur 
ban  allotment  of  twenty-five  acres  in  the  principal  town. 

"  2d.  For  six  years  and  six  months  from  this  date,  Lafone  to 
have  absolute  dominion  over  all  wild  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  goats, 
and  swine  on  East  Falkland. 

"  3d.  For  the  above  advantages,  Lafone  is  to  pay  her  said 
Majesty,  Queen  Victoria,  £60,000  by  installments  in  the  follow 
ing  manner  :  £10,000  within  ten  days  (since  paid)  ;  £5000  on 
the  1st  of  January,  1851  ;  £5000  on  each  succeeding  1st  of 
January,  until  the  whole  shall  be  paid  in  full. 

"  4th.  Technical  reservations  of  lands  for  government  purposes, 
such  as  arsenals,  ports,  bridges,  &c. 

"  5th.  That  Lafone  is  to  deliver  to  the  governor  yearly  in  good 
health  the  following  stock  :  in  1847,  500  cows,  5  bulls,  4000 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  263 

sheep,  40  rams,  20  horses.  In  1848,  1000  cows,  10  bulls,  5000 
sheep,  50  rams,  20  horses,  50  mares,  5  stallions,  30  sows,  and  10 
boars.  In  1849,  1500  cows,  15  bulls,  5000  sheep,  50  rams,  50 
mares.  In  1850,  6000  sheep,  60  rams.  The  sheep  to  be  all 
white  ewes,  good  breed  (not  merinos),  common  and  hardy,  similar 
to  those  in  the  colony.  The  stock  to  be  delivered  at  such  good 
and  safe  ports  as  the  governor  may  direct.  "^ 

In  1848,  when  a  new  governor  was  appointed,  sixty  houses 
had  been  erected  at  Port  Stanley,  besides  the  establishment  of 
Mr.  Lafone  in  the  southern  peninsula,  and  a  small  farm  of  sheep 
and  cattle,  belonging  to  Mr.  "Whittington,  at  the  old  settlement 
of  Port  Louis.  The  entire  population  numbered  from  three  hun- 
d>:d  to  four  hundred  souls. 

Toward  the  end  of  1848,  Captain  Sulivan,  R.N.,  deeply  im 
pressed  with  the  great  advantages  to  be  derived  from  a  sheep 
and  cattle  grazing-farm  in  the  Falklands,  determined,  as  the 
chance  of  employment  was  small  indeed,  to  form  a  company  for 
the  above  purpose  on  a  large  scale. 

In  a  great  country  like  ours,  an  enterprise  of  so  prominent  a 
nature  as  the  one  in  question  is  seized  on  with  avidity,  particu 
larly  by  those  who  happen  to  have  a  large  family  of  sons.  The 
needful  arrangements  were  therefore  speedily  completed,  and  a 
vessel  of  three  hundred  and  seventy-five  tons  (the  "  Australia") 
was  chartered  to  take  out  stock  and  materials  necessary  to  set 
the  venture  "well  afloat." 

As  the  author  is  very  much  interested  in  the  success  of  this 
enterprise,  he  is  anxious  to  correct  an  error  into  which  he  fell 
some  years  ago,  in  reference  to  the  seal-fishing  of  these  islands, 
when,  writing  about  the  Volunteer  Rocks  off  Berkeley  Sound  in 
the  South  Sea  Rocks  slightly  to  the  southward  of  the  former, 
he  stated  that  they  are  superior,  in  number  of  fur  seal  and  ex- 

*  This  arrangement  has  been  considerably  modified  by  government. 


264  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

tent  of  surface,  to  the  island  of  Lobos  in  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  for 
which  is  paid  a  yearly  rent  of  eighty  thousand  dollars.  In 
making  this  statement  he  was  much  mistaken,  and  regrets 
having  fallen  into  an  exaggeration. 

Since  the  departure  of  Captain  Suli van's  expedition,  govern 
ment  has  taken  up  the  "  Nautilus,"  a  vessel  of  two  hundred  tons, 
to  convey  the  necessary  materials  for  repairing  ships  at  the  Falk- 
lands.  This  is,  indeed,  very  much  required,  especially  since  the 
"golden  dreams"  from  California  have  set  all  the  rest  of  the 
world  dreaming  of  mines  of  gold,  which,  says  quaint  old  Burton, 
"is  of  111  others  a  most  delicious  object.  A  sweet  light,  a  goodly 
lustre  hath  gold,  and  we  had  rather  see  it  than  the  sun.  Intoler 
able  pains  we  take  for  it.  Long  journeys,  heavy  burdens,  all  are 
made  light  and  easy  by  it.  The  sight  of  gold  refresheth  our 
spirits  and  ravisheth  our  hearts.  It  will  make  a  man  run  to  the 
Antipodes,." 

Even  before  the  existence  of  the  Californian  mania,  the  average 
number  of  vessels  passing  the  Falklands  both  ways  was  five  per 
diem.  Most  of  these  ships  sighted  the  islands  to  verify  their 
chronometers ;  and  it  is  not  too  much  to  say,  that  if  captains  of 
vessels  were  generally  acquainted  with  the  facilities  offered  by 
the  Falklands,  such  as  the  abundance  and  marvelous  cheapness 
of  provisions,  the  admirable  havens — more  like  basins  than  har 
bors — the  great  facility  of  entrance  and  departure,  and,  though 
last  not  least,  the  ports  being  perfectly  free,  full  ninety  per  cent, 
of  the  above-named  vessels  would  call  there,  to  carry  out  a  proper 
system  of  economy  on  the  long- voyage  trade. 

With  regard  to  the  climate  of  the  Falklands,  it  is  a  singular 
fact  that  this  archipelago  has  always  been  characterized  as  barren, 
desolate,  and  tempestuous.  Nothing  can  be  more  erroneous.  The 
misrepresentations  in  "  Anson's  Voyages"  have  probably  strength 
ened,  if  not  created,  the  general  prejudice  ;  but  there  can  be  little 
doubt  that  this  navigator's  passage  round  Cape  Horn  manifested 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  265 

more  zeal  than  judgment,  particularly  in  keeping  his  squadron 
together,  rather  than  appointing  a  rendezvous  in  the  Pacific.  It 
is  notorious  that  his  vessels  were  badly  found  and  fitted  ;  his  crew 
was  not  only  weak,  but  the  majority  untrained  ;  and,  to  com 
plete  the  list  of  evils,  the  very  worst  time  of  year  was,  by  defect 
ive  arrangement,  forced  upon  them  for  rounding  this  prominent 
southern  headland. 

Where  so  many  elements  of  disaster  exist,  it  is  not  surprising 
that  misfortune  should  occur.  The  Falklands  being  in  the  vicin 
ity,  came  in  for  a  share  of  the  misrepresentation  which  still  re 
tains  a  hold  on  the  public  mind.  Captain  Sulivan  was  employed 
seven  years  in  minutely  examining  and  surveying  these  islands. 
He  was  accompanied  by  his  family,  who  not  only  enjoyed  unin 
terrupted  good  health,  but  considered  the  climate  better,  on  the 
whole,  than  Cornwall  or  Devonshire. 

Voyagers  frequently  form  erroneous  impressions  of  climate  from 
the  temporary  nature  of  their  sojourn.  This  is  remarkably  exem 
plified  in  the  journal  of  Darwin,  who  is  generally  an  accurate 
author.  He  says — "  The  climate  of  the  Falklands  may  be  com 
pared  to  that  which  is  experienced  at  the  height  of  between  one 
and  two  thousand  feet  on  the  mountains  of  North  Wales,  having, 
however,  less  sunshine  and  less  frost,  but  more  wind  and  rain." 
After  this  assertion  had  been  proved  to  be  totally  incorrect,  and 
after  the  evidence  of  Captain  Sulivan's  letters,  it  is  surprising 
that  in  the  second  edition  of  "  A  Naturalist's  Voyage,"  the  author 
should  have  made  the  following  remark  : 

"  From  accounts  published  since  our  voyage,  and  more  espe 
cially  from  several  interesting  letters  from  Captain  Sulivan,  R.N  , 
employed  on  the  survey,  it  appears  that  we  took  an  exagger 
ated  view  of  the  badness  of  the  climate  of  these  islands.  But 
when  I  reflect  on  the  almost  universal  covering  of  peat"  (query, 
what  has  that  to  do  with  climate  ?)  "  and  on  the  fact,  of  wheat 
seldom  ripening  there"  (incorrect),  "I  can  hardly  believe  the 

M 


266  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

climate  in  summer  is  so  fine  and  dry  as  it  has  lately  been  repre 
sented." 

Now  the  truth  is,  that  the  temperature  of  the  Falklands  is 
very  similar  to  that  of  Devon  or  Cornwall,  with  this  difference, 
that  it  is  rather  milder,  much  drier  in  summer,  but  very  windy. 

The  evaporation  is  excessive  ;  so  much  so  that,  in  this  particu 
lar,  it  exceeds  the  Cape  de  Verds.  This  is,  indeed,  an  extraor 
dinary  fact,  especially  when  the  latitude  of  the  latter  region  is 
considered.  So  extreme  a  dryness  of  air  may  hereafter  be  turned 
to  excellent  account  in  the  manufacture  of  salt ;  and  should  this 
anticipation  turn  out  to  be  practically  correct,  a  valuable  article 
of  commerce  will  be  added  to  the  productions  of  the  Falklands. 
South  America  is  now  principally  supplied  from  Cheshire  in 
England,  and  the  Cape  de  Verds  ;  the  length  of  the  voyage  in  both 
instances  being  much  against  a  cheap  and  certain  supply. 

The  Falklands  are  remarkably  accessible  to  pedestrians  ;*  and 
the  earth  is  clothed  with  a  variety  of  nourishing  grasses,  which 
are  as  sweet  as  the  delicate  parts  of  the  foliage  of  Indian  corn. 

It  is  not  at  all  surprising,  therefore,  that  the  animals  should 
grow  to  a  great  size,  nor  that  their  meat  should  prove  to  be  of  a 
very  delicate  flavor. 

The  tussock  f  is  a  gigantic  species  of  grass,  frequently  growing 
to  the  height  of  ten  feet,  and,  where  abundant,  not  only  capable 
of  sheltering,  but  absolutely  concealing,  herds  of  cattle  or  horses. 
Tussock  is  called  "  the  glory  of  the  Falklands."  An  instance  is 
mentioned  in  Ross's  voyage  of  two  American  seamen  (deserters), 
who  lived  solely  on  the  core  of  this  grass  for  fourteen  months ; 
and,  when  reclaimed  from  their  wild  wanderings,  were  plump, 
healthy,  and  in  excellent  spirits !  Cattle  and  horses  are  raven 
ously  fond  of  tussock  ;  so  much  so,  that  the  author  has  a  vivid 
remembrance  of  the  wild  cattle  eating  the  dry  thatch,  composed 

*  See  "Fitzroy,"  p.  247.  t  See  "Ross's  Voyage,"  p.  269. 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  267 

of  this  material,  from  a  small  cabin  he  had  erected  as  an  armor 
er's  forge.  This  was  seen  by  him  with  a  spy-glass  from  the  deck 
of  the  "  Arrow,"  when  the  beasts  were  descried,  reared  on  their 
hind  legs,  easily  pulling  down  what  the  crew  with  so  much  trouble 
had  completed. 

In  1839,  the  cattle  were  computed  to  be  about  thirty  thousand 
head.  Their  increase  since  that  time  must  have  been  immense, 
as  they  are  now  estimated  at  two  hundred  thousand.  The  only 
way  to  account  for  this  prodigious  multiplication  is,  that  since  the 
former  period,  whalers  and  other  marauders  have  been  kept  off 
from  some  of  the  stations,  by  the  settlement  and  occupation  of 
the  islands.  It  is,  however,  to  be  regretted  that  in  the  remote 
parts  great  depredations  are  still  committed  on  the  cattle. 

This  is  beginning  to  be  felt  as  a  serious  drawback  to  the  outlay 
of  capital.  Pebble  Island,  for  instance,  and  the  islands  adjacent, 
are  admirably  adapted  for  cattle-stations.  Unfortunately,  how 
ever,  this  is  the  very  locality  now  resorted  to  by  marauders  for 
stealthily  obtaining  beef,  not  merely  for  present  supply,  but  for 
committing  so  wholesale  a  destruction  as  will  enable  them  to  salt 
down  sufficient  for  a  long  cruise.  It  is  pretty  well  known  that 
in  numerous  vessels  from  England,  America,  and  other  places,  a 
stock  of  salt  is  taken  out  for  the  purpose  of  curing  a  supply  of 
provisions  at  the  expense  of  these  islands. 

The  only  way  to  prevent  this  pillage,  which  years  of  impunity 
have  seemed  to  sanction,  would  be  by  stationing  on  the  spot  one 
or  two  small  vessels — for  example,  two  cutters,  rigged  as  ketches, 
under  a  commander  :  these,  constantly  moving  about,  would  not 
only  scare  away  the  light-fingered  gentry,  but  a  portion  of  the 
crews  would  be  eminently  useful  in  erecting  buildings  for  govern 
ment  purposes,  cultivating  gardens,  and  making  preparations  for 
colonization,  either  penal  or  otherwise.  The  expense  would  be 
little  or  nothing :  say,  one  commander,  one  lieutenant,  two  second 
masters,  twenty  able  seamen,  twenty  marines,  and  sixteen  others 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 


— in  all,  sixty.  These  officers  and  men  could  easily  navigate  one 
ketch  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  tons  and  another  of  sixty,  and 
be  a  complete  protection  to  the  whole  islands. 

It  is  believed  that  these  islands  are  frequently  made  use  of  by 
fraudulent  persons  much  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Bahama 
banks  are  in  the  West  Indian  seas  ;  that  is  to  say,  ships  are  pur 
posely  lost  there  to  defraud  underwriters.  Many  instances  are 
known  of  vessels  being  "  cast  away"  in  the  most  unaccountable 
manner.  In  several  instances  ships  thus  lost  in  some  of  the 
basin-like  harbors,  have  been  sold  for  a  "  mere  song,"  recovered 
at  little  expense,  and  are  still  bearing  rich  freights  across  the 
seas  !  The  very  fact  of  a  naval  officer  being  on  the  spot  would 
prevent  such  disgraceful  proceedings,  and  save  thousands  yearly. 

The  undeservedly  bad  name  borne  by  the  Falklands,  tempts 
fraudulent  adventurers  ;  but  were  people  in  general  well-inform 
ed  as  to  the  admirable  and  safe  ports  in  these  islands,  the  utmost 
surprise  would  be  expressed  at  ships  being  lost  there.  As  it  is, 
the  unprincipled  master  has  a  certainty  of  a  safe  and  comfortable 
wreck  ;  preserves  his  life  and  as  many  private  stores  as  he  may 
think  necessary  ;  loudly  trumpets  forth  the  dangerous  nature  of 
the  islands  ;  and  thus  disarms  and  silences  suspicion.  From  the 
astonishing  increase  of  trade  round  the  Horn,  the  author  ventures 
to  predict  that  the  underwriters  in  England  will  be  thoroughly 
fleeced  in  insuring  vessels  to  the  Falklands,  and  that  the  islands 
will  be  innocently  accused  of  being  the  cause  ;  but  he  asserts 
advisedly  that  no  well-found,  well-managed  ship  need  be  lost  on 
the  Falklands. 

As  a  corroboration  of  the  apparently  marvelous  increase  of 
animals  alluded  to  above,  the  following  is  quoted  from  the  narra 
tive  of  a  voyage  by  Lopez  in  1586,  published  in  the  third  volume 
of  "  Hakluyt's  Voyages  and  Travels  :" 

"  Of  all  the  men  Don  Pedro  left  behind  him,  there  were  but 
two  hundred  left  alive,  who,  in  the  ship's  boats,  went  higher  up 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  269 

the  river ;  leaving  in  the  place  called  Buenos  Ayres  their  mares 
and  horses.  But  it  is  a  wonder  to  see,  that  of  thirty  mares  and 
seven  horses,  which  the  Spaniards  left  there,  the  increase  in  forty 
years  was  so  great,  that  the  country  twenty  leagues  up  is  full  of 
horses ;  whereby  a  man  can  conjecture  the  goodness  of  the  pas 
ture  and  the  fruitfulness  of  the  soil." 

The  following  sketches  are  extracted  from  a  diary  kept  by  the 
author  while  surveying  the  Falklands  in  1838  and  1839.  On 
the  site  of  the  present  town,  Port  Stanley,  he  shot  five  wild  geese 
at  one  discharge.  Before  that  time  the  harbor  was  un surveyed, 
and  consequently  unknown  ;  and  the  whole  population,  exclusive 
of  the  officers  and  men  surveying,  consisted  of  about  one  dozen 
persons  ! 


CHAPTER  II. 

Inclement  Gale  of  Wind — Dreary  Situation — Adventure  on  a  Tussock-islet 
— A  Conflagration — Narrow  Escape — An  exploring  Excursion — Abund 
ance  of  Game — A  huge  Bull — A  Ruse — Desolate  Scene — Attack  on  tvvo 
wild  Bulls — The  Combat — Herds  of  wild  Cattle — Outlying  Bulls. 

THE  barometer  fell  so  fast,  that  the  surveying  party  did  not 
think  it  prudent  to  leave  the  vessel  which  was  moored  in  Pleasant 
Harbor.  Every  preparation  was  made  for  a  heavy  gale  ;  as  we 
knew,  by  experience,  that  the  weather-glass  is  a  faithful  monitor. 
At  noon  we  began  to  feel  the  breeze  ;  and  by  two  P.M.  we  had 
as  hard  a  gale  of  wind,  accompanied  by  as  fierce  and  powerful 
squalls,  with  numerous  flakes  of  snow,  as  I  ever  experienced. 

Our  situation  was  desolate  in  the  extreme  :  to  leeward,  a 
range  of  rocky  hills,  covered  with  snow  ;  the  harbor  itself  (a 
branch  of  Port  Fitzroy),  lashed  by  the  furious  gale  into  one  sheet 
of  foam ;  and  to  windward,  a  small  islet  covered  with  tussock, 
the  long  leaves  of  which,  bending  and  bowing  as  in  despair, 
added  to  the  dreariness  of  the  prospect.  The  entrance  to  the 
harbor  and  the  head  of  the  bay  were  hidden  from  our  view  by 
large  flakes  of  snow  driving  furiously  past  us. 

To  deepen  the  effect  of  this  dismal  picture  we  were  conscious 
of  being  104°  of  latitude  from  Old  England;  and  that,  in  case 
of  need,  we  were  several  hundred  miles  away  from  the  nearest 
assistance.  In  spite  of  all  this,  we  felt  perfectly  comfortable  and 
jolly,  and  cared  not  one  farthing  for  the  gale,  as  we  had  not  only 
full  reliance  on  our  own  resources,  but  abundance  of  "  creature 
comforts,"  to  say  nothing  of  the  appearance  of  our  spritsail-yard, 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 


which  was  not  merely  decorated,  but  positively  loaded  with  game 
of  all  kinds. 

Toward  night,  as  usual,  the  gale  abated.  The  next  morning, 
after  divisions,  it  being  Sunday,  divine  service  was  performed — a 
ceremony  omitted  only  on  one  occasion  while  Captain  Sulivan 
and  myself  were  aboard  the  vessel,  when,  during  a  veiy  heavy 
gale  of  wind,  we  were  battened  down.  After  the  ship's  company 
had  dined,  some  of  the  crew  were  allowed  to  land  for  a  walk  ; 
but  as  no  fire-arms  were  permitted  to  be  carried  on  the  Sabbath, 
it  was  customary  to  put  the  men  on  an  islet,  in  order  to  avoid 
any  danger  from  the  wild  animals  which  infested  the  mainland. 

On  the  day  in  question,  about  twenty  were  landed  on  the  little 
tussock-isle  close  to  which  we  lay  ;  and  as  certain  of  the  officers 
(myself  among  the  number)  wished  to  go,  we  all  went  together, 
and  soon  began  to  amuse  ourselves  in  the  best  way  we  could. 
These  tussock-beds  are  very  singular  places ;  they  have  been 
undisturbed  for  ages,  and  by  the  perpetual  decay  and  renewal  of 
the  flags  the  whole  place  where  they  grow  is  covered  with  large 
lumps  of  vegetable  matter  as  inflammable  as  tinder.  The  long 
thin  leaves  interlock  above,  and  form,  here  and  there,  little 
cloisters  from  five  to  twenty  yards  long  in  some  places.  The 
paths  thus  formed  are  trodden  perfectly  smooth  by  the  numerous 
penguins,  whose  holes  branch  ofFin  every  direction. 

As  we  were  looking  about  us,  one  of  our  party  suddenly 
observed  that  he  smelt  smoke.  Though  such  a  remark  on  an 
uninhabited  island  was  of  a  nature  to  excite  surprise,  no  one 
seemed  to  heed  it  till,  in  a  few  minutes,  thick  reeky  volumes 
began  to  roll  over  our  heads  when  it  struck  me  that  some  of  our 
careless  vagabonds  had  set  fire  to  the  weather-side. 

Off'  we  started  for  very  life,  though  we  had  only  about  two 
hundred  yards  to  go.  The  ground  was  excessively  difficult,  as 
some  of  the  lumps  were  five  feet  high,  and  the  flags  on  the 
summits  many  feet  above  our  heads.  The  crackling  of  the 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 


flames  was  plainly  heard,  as  if  close  to  us,  and  we  were  nearly 
suffocated  by  the  dense  smoke. 

At  length,  after  a  desperate  struggle,  in  which  several  shoes 
and  caps  were  lost,  we  gained  the  beach,  rushed  into  the  boat,  and 
pushed  off.  We  were  barely  in  time ;  for  the  next  instant  the  little 
bank  over  which  we  had  scampered  was  a  mass  of  bright  flame. 

Not  a  moment  was  lost  in  sending  a  boat  round  to  the  weather- 
side  (the  leeward  being  impracticable,  on  account  of  heat  and 
smoke)  to  look  for  the  rest  of  our  men,  about  whom  we  were,  of 
course,  very  anxious.  The  thoughtless  fellows  were  found  sitting 
quietly  on  the  beach  smoking  their  pipes,  and  looking  with  va 
cant  pleasure  on  their  work,  not  dreaming  that  some  of  their  ship 
mates  might,  as  the  Americans  say,  have  been  "used  up"  by  it. 

The  next  morning,  anxious  to  see  the  effects  of  the  fire,  I 
landed  early,  and  having  examined  the  ashes,  ascertained  that  a 
very  great  number  of  birds  had  been  destroyed  by  the  conflagra 
tion.  The  island  consists  of  about  three  hundred  acres,  of  which, 
I  am  convinced,  there  are  not  a  dozen  square  yards  without  a 
nest  of  some  kind  of  bird  containing  four  or  five  eggs  or  young 
birds.  In  the  portion  of  land  wherein  the  fire  raged,  the  young 
birds  were  roasted  alive,  besides  a  few  seals,  whose  remains  we 
found  pretty  well  singed.  The  authors  of  this  wholesale  destruc 
tion  said  it  was  quite  pitiable  to  see  the  larger  birds,  such  as 
geese,  caranchos,  &c.,  flying  round  the  flames  that  were  con 
suming  their  young,  and  screaming  with  horror.  Now  and  then 
one  of  them  would  fall  in ;  either  suffocated  by  the  smoke  or 
scorched  by  the  heat. 

A  day  or  two  subsequently,  Captain  Sulivan  and  myself  landed 
with  our  guns  on  an  exploring  excursion.  After  about  an  hour's 
walk  round  a  chain  of  ponds,  during  which  we  jointly  bagged 
upward  of  forty  teal,  we  saw,  on  turning  the  corner  of  a  gully,  a 
huge  bull  half  hidden  among  the  bushes,  as  if  fast  asleep.  Drop 
ping  on  our  knees,  we  crawled  back  some  distance,  for  the  purpose 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  273 

of  changing  our  small  shot  for  ball.  Having  thrown  down  our 
game  and  shooting-jackets,  we  stealthily  advanced  on  all-fours, 
and  crept  up  to  a  small  bank  within  fifteen  yards  of  the  brute's 
great  head,  which  lay  fully  exposed  to  us ;  then,  resting  our 
guns,  we  both  fired  our  left  barrels  at  a  concerted  signal,  reserv 
ing  the  right. 

The  beast  did  not  move  ;  and,  to  our  mortification,  we  found, 
on  a  nearer  approach,  that  we  had  valiantly  been  attacking  a 
dead  animal.  It  was  some  consolation,  however,  to  discover 
that  our  two  bullet-holes  were  touching  each  other  in  the  centre 
of  his  brain. 

Knowing  full  well  that  we  might  reckon  on  a  speedy  detection 
of  our  exploit,  and,  consequently,  on  being  well  laughed  at,  we 
determined  to  ward  off  the  expected  ridicule  by  turning  the 
tables  on  our  shipmates  ;  accordingly,  going  on  board  with  joyful 
countenances,  we  said  (which  was  true  enough)  that  we  had 
shot  a  bull  through  the  brain,  and  that  he  had  not  stirred 
afterward. 

On  hearing  this  a  party  was  formed,  and  saws,  knives,  and 
other  butchering  instruments  were  taken,  for  the  purpose  of 
cutting  up  the  spoil,  toward  which,  after  receiving  the  necessary 
directions,  they  started  in  high  glee  ;  while  we  sat  down  to 
dinner  chuckling  at  our  ruse,  which,  if  it  did  not  ultimately 
deceive  our  companions,  had  the  desired  effect  in  diverting  the 
laughter  from  ourselves. 

When  we  had  completed  the  survey  of  Pleasant  Harbor,  we 
took  the  vessel  some  miles  further  up.  As  we  advanced  toward 
the  head  of  the  harbor,  the  beauties  of  the  place  opened  on  us. 
Sometimes  the  passage  was  so  narrow  that  one  might  have 
thrown  his  hat  ashore  on  either  side  ;  and  anon  it  spread  out  to 
a  broad  sheet  of  water.  The  whole  scene  was  so  desolate  and 
dumb  that,  in  giving  the  word  of  command,  as  the  different 
windings  made  it  necessary  to  shift  the  yards,  my  own  voice 

M* 


274  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 


startled  me.  The  water-fowl,  noiselessly  parting  on  each  side  of 
our  bow  as  the  vessel  came  up  to  them,  did  not  appear  alarmed, 
but  stared  at  us  with  grave  astonishment. 

At  eight  o'clock  we  came  to  and  moored  in  a  large  sheet  of 
water,  about  ten  miles  from  the  harbor's  mouth. 

While  enjoying  my  cigar  on  deck,  and  deriving  pleasure  from 
the  soft,  serene  air  of  evening,  I  perceived  two  bulls  grazing 
close  to  the  shore  just  ahead  of  the  vessel.  The  surveyors,  who 
were  engaged  below  laying  down  their  work,  immediately  stop 
ped  business  and  came  up.  Having  only  one  day's  beef  on 
board,  we  determined  to  attack  the  bulls ;  and,  in  a  few  minutes, 
four  of  us  were  pulling  for  the  shore  with  well-loaded  guns.  Our 
proceedings  had  got  wind  on  the  lower  deck,  and  all  hands 
crowded  up  the  rigging  to  see  the  battle. 

We  landed  under  the  bank  in  such  a  position  as  not  to  be  seen 
by  our  prey,  who  were  quietly  grazing  all  the  time.  Stealthily, 
like  Indians,  we  climbed  the  bank,  and  jumped  over  the  brow 
full  before  them.  They  immediately  turned  tail  and  fled.  Cap 
tain  Sulivan  fired  at  the  nearest  brute  as  he  turned,  and,  though  at 
the  distance  of  fifty  yards,  we  could  clearly  hear  the  sound  of  the 
ball  striking  him,  which  it  did  about  six  inches  behind  the  heart. 

This  was  a  staggering  blow,  but  did  not  prevent  his  running 
away.  La  Porte  (our  dog)  was  immediately  slipped,  caught  the 
bull  about  three  hundred  yards  inland,  and  flew  at  his  flank, 
which  caused  him  to  face  about  and  attack  the  dog.  Time  was 
thus  given  me  to  get  within  fifteen  yards  of  the  spot,  when, 
lowering  his  head,  the  brute  charged  me.  My  right-hand  barrel, 
however,  damped  his  ardor,  and  he  turned  half  round  as  if  to 
fly.  My  second  bullet  now  went  clean  through  his  body  a  few 
inches  above  the  heart,  and,  for  a  moment,  brought  him  on  his 
knees.  While  I  drew  my  knife  in  order  to  hamstring  him,  he 
suddenly  rallied  arid  appeared  to  collect  what  strength  was  left 
him  for  one  last  desperate  effort — always  the  most  dangerous. 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  275 

At  this  moment  a  shipmate  came  up  and  presented  his  gun, 
but  the  vile  Brummagem  snapped  without  going  off,  and  we 
should  have  been  in  rather  an  awkward  predicament,  had  not 
Captain  Sulivan,  with  his  remaining  barrel,  within  five  yards, 
laid  the  bull  dead  at  his  feet,  the  bullet  passing  through  the 
centre  of  his  brain,  and  coming  out  at  the  back  of  his  head.  The 
moment  he  fell,  we  were  greeted  by  three  loud  cheers  from  the 
people  at  our  mast-head,  and,  in  a  few  minutes,  had  thirty  stout 
fellows  with  us. 

After  disemboweling  our  prey,  we  attached  a  strong  line  to 
his  horns,  and,  with  a  sailor-song  from  thirty  hoarse  throats, 
dragged  him  down  to  the  water's  edge,  towed  him  off,  and  hoist 
ed  him  in  with  a  runner  and  tackle,  not  liking  to  trust  his  great 
weight  to  the  yard. 

As  the  survey  detained  us  here  several  days,  we  had  a  good 
opportunity  of  exploring  the  immediate  vicinity.  Not  a  day 
passed  without  our  seeing  herds  of  cattle  grazing  around.  To 
attack  these  would  not  be  so  dangerous  an  adventure  as  to  en 
counter  the  outlying  bulls,  which,  in  number,  are  disproportion 
ate  to  the  cows.  This,  no  doubt,  has  arisen  from  the  great 
slaughter  for  food  of  the  latter,  whose  flesh  is  preferable  to  that 
of  the  male — a  slaughter  committed  by  ships  of  all  nations  some 
few  years  ago,  before  the  Falklands  were  under  the  English  flag. 
I  generally  remarked  that  the  outlyers  were  covered  with  gashes, 
received  probably,  in  many  a  hard  battle  ;  and  that  they  labored 
under  the  disadvantage  of  not  having  their  horns  pointed  upward 
whereas  the  bashaws,  who  lived  in  female  society,  had  remark 
able  advantages  in  that  weapon  of  offense. 

This  may  be  a  wise  ordination  of  nature,  to  prevent  the  great 
number  of  males  from  injuring  the  breed,  which  \vould  certainly 
ensue  were  not  some  of  the  bulls  turned  out  of  the  herd  and  kept 
at  a  distance  by  their  more  favored  brethren. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Endeavor  to  cany  out  an  Admiralty  Order — Wild  and  sequestered  Lake — 
Majestic  Swans  and  innumerable  other  Birds — Their  familiar  Confidence 
— Flock  of  Teal — Flutter  and  Confusion  among  the  Water-fowl — Skel 
etons  of  Quadrupeds — Author  attacked  by  wild  Bulls — Refuge  on  the 
Summit  of  a  Rock — Blockaded  by  the  Beasts — Escape — Combat  with  a 
Seal — A  surveying  Party — Dangerous  Conflict — Bulls  in  Chase — A  wild 
Banquet. 

HAVING  seen  that  every  thing  was  in  order  in  our  little  vessel, 
I  thought  a  good  opportunity  was  before  me  to  carry  out  one  of 
the  orders  given  by  the  Admiralty  to  my  commanding  officer, 
namely,  to  form  little  gardens  in  any  convenient  spot  in  the 
Falkland  Islands.  I  therefore  determined  to  seek  out  a  locality 
adapted  to  so  well-intentioned  a  purpose. 

At  half-past  ten  in  the  forenoon,  I  manned  my  barge  with 
four  boys,  and  pulled  along  the  shore,  frequently  landing  as  a 
favorable  place  seemed  to  present  itself,  each  of  which,  however, 
on  examination,  proved  impracticable.  At  length  we  arrived  at 
a  little  creek,  about  forty  yards  wide,  running  inland.  Up  this 
we  went,  following  the  windings  of  the  stream  about  a  mile, 
when  they  terminated  in  a  small  rivulet  running  from  a  lake 
situated  at  a  short  distance. 

Leaving  the  boat  in  charge  of  three  of  my  young  crew,  I  land 
ed  with  the  fourth  boy,  and  walked  to  the  wild  and  sequestered 
mere,  which  presented  a  sight  to  charm  the  eye  of  a  sportsman. 
The  extent  of  the  water — barely  two  acres — was  thickly  dotted 
with  birds.  Two  majestic  swans,  with  ebony  necks  issuing  from 
snowy  bodies,  floated,  with  an  air  of  haughty  patronage,  among 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  277 

innumerable  geese,  ducks,  teal,  and  divers  ;  but,  to  my  great 
amazement,  the  feathered  crowd,  instead  of  appearing  the  least 
alarmed  and  skurrying  off,  drew  toward  us  :  unlike  their  civilized 
brethren,  they  were  ignorant  of  the  treachery  of  man. 

I  sat  down  on  the  brink  of  the  lake,  wondering  whether,  on 
my  return,  I  should  be  able  to  convince  people  of  the  truth,  of 
that  which  I  then  beheld.  Except  the  swans,  the  whole  assem 
bly  of  fowl  approached  gradually  until  some  hundreds  were  with 
in  twenty  yards  of  me.  A  chorus  then  arose  from  them,  as  if 
with  one  accord  they  inquired  my  business  there,  and  sought  to 
know  in  a  friendly  way  why  I  disturbed  their  privacy. 

I  may  here  remark,  that  the  sounds,  they  utter  in  a  wild  state, 
are  totally  different  from  their  notes  when  domesticated,  and  I 
should  not  have  recognized  the  species  by  the  ear  alone.  The 
entire  congregation  appeared  to  be  so  tame  and  unsuspecting, 
that,  reluctant  to  make  my  presence  shunned  by  dealing  death 
among  them,  I  contented  myself  (although  my  double-barrel, 
loaded  with  No.  6,  was  lying  across  my  knees),  with  taking 
the  seal-club  from  my  boy's  hand,  and  shying  it  among  the 
birds. 

This  had  an  effect  contrary  to  what  I  expected ;  for,  instead 
of  being  alarmed,  they  gathered,  as  if  with  curiosity,  round  the 
missile,  and  pecked  at  it.  Never  was  so  glorious  an  opportunity 
of  making  an  immortal  shot !  But  again  my  humanity  struggled 
with  my  love  of  sport :  I  could  not  kill  the  poor  confiding  creat 
ures,  who  placed  themselves  within  my  grasp. 

At  this  moment  a  more  legitimate  opportunity  offered  :  a  flock 
of  teal  flew  over  my  head  from  another  place.  Mechanically  my 
gun  jumped  to  my  shoulder,  and  before  I  was  aware  of  it,  both 
barrels  had  done  their  work ;  five  birds  fell  from  the  discharge  of 
the  first,  and  four  from  that  of  the  second.  For  a  few  minutes, 
the  flutter  and  confusion  that  followed  on  the  lake  was  indescriba 
ble  ;  but  quiet  was  soon  restored,  except  that  every  now  and 


278  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 


then  were  heard  little  bursts  of  rapid  chattering,  as  if  excited  by 
wonder. 

Bagging  my  teal,  I  resumed  my  quest  of  a  site  for  a  garden, 
passing  more  than  once  the  skeleton  of  a  wild  bull  or  cow — 
rather  grim  land-marks  in  a  wild  solitude.  One  of  these  strongly 
excited  my  attention.  It  lay  in  a  pass  over  a  small  boggy  rivu 
let  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  ravine.  Here  the  poor  brute  must 
have  stuck  in  trying  to  cross  :  the  surrounding  earth  was  torn  up, 
and  the  vegetation  destroyed  as  if  by  hoofs  and  horns.  I  was  in 
clined  to  suspect  that  this  might  have  been  done  by  wild  cattle, 
in  horror  at  the  terrible  death  of  their  fellow,  who  must  have 
perished  of  starvation  :  his  head  was  stretched  out  as  in  the  act 
of  bellowing. 

While  "  moralizing  this  spectacle,"  I  quite  forgot  the  purpose 
for  which  I  landed  ;  and  was  only  roused  from  my  brown  study, 
and  warned  of  my  distance  from  the  boat,  by  the  sudden  trum 
peting  of  wild  bulls.  I  felt  convinced  we  were  chased. 

Hoping  to  get  back  in  a  direct  line,  we  ascended  the  side  of 
the  ravine,  and  made  for  a  hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  was  a 
little  rock  which,  luckily  for  us,  was  scalable.  On  gaining  the 
base  of  this  position,  impregnable  to  quadrupeds,  I  climbed  up, 
closely  followed  by  my  boy,  who  had  hardly  got  a  footing  on  the 
top,  when  we  descried  five  huge  brutes  who  closed  in  our  little 
fortress,  and  declared  war  by  furiously  tearing  up  the  ground. 

With  all  convenient  speed  I  drew  from  my  gun  the  charges  of 
small  shot,  and  loaded  with  ball ;  but,  not  expecting  a  fight,  I 
had  only  four  bullets  ;  and  considering  those  not  quite  sufficient 
to  physic  five  full-grown  bulls,  I  determined  to  lay  them  by  for 
a  last  resource,  and  await  the  chapter  of  accidents  ;  knowing  full 
well  that,  should  we  not  return  by  a  certain  time,  a  party  would 
be  sent  to  our  assistance,  who  would  soon  deliver  us  by  raising 
the  siege. 

To  beguile  the  time  I  struck  a  light  for  my  cigar,  and  reclining 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  279 

at  my  ease,  expected  the  brutes  would  take  themselves  ofF.  But 
no  such  thing  :  they  did  not  even  graze,  but  watched  the  rock 
as  a  cat  would  watch  a  mouse-trap.  I  could  not  help  laughing 
to  see  my  little  companion  every  now  and  then  lift  up  his  head, 
reconnoitre  the  enemy,  and  extend  his  fingers  from  his  nose  ac 
cording  to  the  elegant  method  now  in  vogue  of  "taking  a  sight." 

We  remained  thus  blockaded  about  three  hours,  when  sud 
denly  came  on  a  furious  squall  of  snow  and  sleet,  which  com 
pletely  enveloped  us  all  in  the  clouds.  This  being  too  good  an 
opportunity  to  be  lost,  we  swiftly  and  silently  evacuated  our  po 
sition,  and  ran  at  least  a  mile  without  stopping ;  after  which  a 
rough  walk  of  an  hour  and  a  half  brought  us  down  to  the  boat. 
I  resolved  that,  in  future  land  excursions  I  would  carry  more 
bullets. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day,  I  again  landed,  having 
our  purser  for  my  companion.  While  rounding  an  angle  in  the 
island,  I  saw,  spread  out  fast  asleep,  a  hair  seal  of  about  seven 
feet  in  length.  Being  anxious  to  observe  the  movements  of  one 
of  these  creatures,  I  halted,  and  quietly  watched  him.  My  friend 
had  also  seen  the  animal  from  another  point  of  view,  and,  being 
armed  with  a  boarding-pike,  had  stealthily  approached  him. 
The  assailant,  brandishing  his  weapon,  had  so  earnest  an  expres 
sion  of  countenance,  and  seemed  inspired  by  so  knightly  a  deter 
mination  (as  though  a  new  St.  George  was  about  to  attack  a 
new  dragon),  that  I  could  not  refrain  from,  bursting  into  a  loud 
laugh. 

This  roused  the  seal,  who,  slowly  raising  his  head,  gazed  round 
about  with  sleepy  eyes.  The  next  moment  the  purser's  pike  was 
stuck  with  right  good- will  into  the  beast's  hind-quarters,  on  which 
he  scuttled  into  the  water,  followed  by  his  persecutor,  who,  in 
his  excitement,  tumbled  after  him  (repeating  his  digs)  into  the 
water,  whence,  what  with  my  excessive  laughter,  and  the  thick 
kelp,  I  had  some  difficulty  in  extracting  him. 


280  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

Thus  ended  our  exploration  for  the  day.  In  the  thoroughly 
soaked  condition  of  my  friend,  a  speedy  return  to  the  ship  was 
necessary. 

As,  about  this  period,  we  had  not  much  experience  in  combat 
ing  wild  cattle,  we  deemed  two  persons  with  guns  quite  suf 
ficient  to  attack  one  beast.  When,  however,  we  had  gained  a 
little  more  knowledge,  we  became  cautious  and  generally  took 
with  us  three  or  four  men  well  armed.  Our  first  irrational  valor 
arose  from  ambition  of  the  honor  of  vanquishing  a  bull  single- 
handed — an  exploit  attempted  by  Captain  Sulivan  and  myself; 
after  which,  being  satisfied  with  our  experiment,  we  were  in  no 
hurry  to  repeat  it. 

One  morning  early  the  surveying  party  landed,  and  were  soon 
lost  in  the  windings  of  the  creeks.  About  two  hours  after  their 
departure  I  ascended  with  my  spy-glass,  to  our  mast-head,  for 
the  purpose  of  getting  a  better  view,  and  could  see  the  party  on 
a  distant  hill  building  a  mark.  In  a  short  time  I  observed  them 
pointing  their  glass  very  earnestly  in  the  direction  of  a  particular 
spot,  much  nearer  the  vessel,  toward  which,  having  finished 
the  mark,  and  put  a  pole  on  its  summit,  they  started  at  a  rapid 
pace.  I  conjectured  that  the  object  of  their  anxiety  must  be  a 
herd  of  cattle. 

Immediately  arming  myself  with  my  usual  weapons,  I  pressed 
into  the  service  my  dog  La  Porte,  together  with  a  brave  boy  of 
the  name  of  Popham,  who  afterward  always  carried  my  second 
gun,  and  who  never  once  flinched  from  putting  it  into  my  hand 
at  the  proper  moment.  Knowing,  from  the  nature  of  the  ground, 
that  I  should  stand  a  much  better  chance  of  getting  near  the 
animals  than  was  possessed  by  the  surveyors,  who  must  cross  one 
or  two  creeks  and  approach  their  prey  from  an  open  plain,  I 
landed,  and  marched  in  a  direct  line  to  the  place  denoted. 

After  progressing  about  two  miles,  we  observed,  just  over  the 
crest  of  a  hillock,  a  black  ridge  or  eminence,  like  a  bush  or 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  281 

small  rock,  which  suddenly  started  into  life,  developing  a  huge 
head  and  a  pair  of  horns.  It  was  a  bull,  grazing  ;  and  a  mag 
nificent  creature  he  appeared  to  he. 

These  wild  fellows  are  very  different  from  their  species  in  a 
tame  state.  I  can  not  more  fitly  describe  them  than  by  saying 
they  have  a  terrible  aspect ;  so  much  so,  that  some  of  our  men, 
and  one  officer,  although  as  brave  and  careless  of  their  personal 
safety  as  any  could  be,  were  never  able  to  get  over  their  dread 
of  the  gorgon-like  visages  of  these  beasts,  which  operated  so 
powerfully  on  one  or  two  occasions,  as  to  prevent  the  individuals 
in  question  from  venturing  on  the  main  land.  This  peculiar  ter 
ror  on  the  part  of  men  of  high  courage,  must,  I  imagine,  have 
arisen  from  early  impressions  made  in  childhood,  similar  to  the 
dread  some  persons  have  of  being  alone  in  a  dark  place. 

"While  considering  how  best  we  might  attack  the  brute,  a  herd 
of  about  forty  or  fifty  was  suddenly  exposed  to  our  view.  Start 
ing  La  Porte  at  them,  arid  enjoining  my  brave  young  companion 
to  keep  close  to  me,  we  ran  full  speed  toward  the  animals,  the 
whole  of  which  seemed  panic-stricken,  and  scoured  off.  One 
bull  took  a  direction  across  my  path,  at  a  distance  of  about  fifty 
yards.  I  leveled  my  rifle  at  his  fore  shoulder,  and  heard  (im 
mediately  after  its  sharp  crack)  the  dull  sound  of  the  bullet  strik 
ing  him.  This  enraged  the  animal,  when  turning  his  head  at 
me,  on  he  came  at  speed,  with  tail  high  above  his  back. 

In  a  moment  I  had  changed  guns,  and,  with  my  left  knee  on 
the  ground,  waited  his  approach.  La  Porte  did  all  a  dog  could 
do  to  divert  his  course  ;  but  on  me  the  bull  had  fixed  his  eye, 
and  nothing  could  shake  his  purpose.  I  must  confess  I  felt  as  if 
I  should  have  been  much  safer  any  where  else ;  but  it  was  too 
late  to  think  of  that. 

The  animal  was  within  twenty  yards  when  my  first  barrel 
opened  on  him.  The  ball  entered  his  forehead,  but  not  suf 
ficiently  deep  to  cause  instantaneous  death,  or  even  to  disable 


282  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

him  for  the  moment.  Regardless  of  pain,  he  still  galloped  for 
ward,  when,  at  ten  yards,  my  remaining  barrel  pierced  his  left 
eye. 

Mad,  and  half  blinded,  he  now  swerved  from  me  and  rushed 
headlong  on  my  boy,  whom,  without  attempting  to  toss,  he 
knocked  down,  trampled  on,  and  passed  over.  Before  he  could 
turn,  La  Porte  had  him  by  the  nose,  and  for  a  few  seconds  held 
him ;  but  he  soon  threw  the  dog  off,  and  came  upon  us  stream 
ing  with  blood.  During  the  next  two  or  three  minutes  we  ex 
erted  every  nerve  and  muscle  to  keep  clear  of  his  repeated 
though  weakened  charges,  and  only  succeeded  by  La  Forte's 
powerful  assistance  who,  when  we  were  nearly  caught,  sprang 
upon  him  like  a  tiger. 

At  length  the  bull  appeared  to  stagger  slightly,  and  the  dog 
pinned  him.  Drawing  my  hunting-knife — which,  by-the-by,  I 
could  shave  with — I  ran  up,  and  was  in  the  act  of  hamstringing 
him,  when  once  more  he  threw  off  the  dog  and  bounded  at  me. 
While  making  the  third  bound  (and  when  I  fancied  I  could  feel 
his  hot  breath,  he  was  so  close),  the  tendon  having  been  severed, 
the  remaining  cartilages  of  the  leg  gave  way,  and,  with  a  loud 
bellow,  he  was  stretched  on  the  earth.  The  next  moment  my 
knife  was  sticking  in  his  heart. 

After  a  little  time  we  cut  his  throat  and  examined  his  wounds, 
each  of  which  was  mortal.  He  was  of  the  low-quartered  breed, 
but  young.  One  of  the  surveying  party,  who  afterward  came 
up,  pronounced  him  to  be  only  three  years  old. 

We  now  collected  our  hats,  guns,  &c.,  which  had  been  scat 
tered  around,  arid  were  beginning  to  compose  ourselves,  when,  to 
our  infinite  discomfort,  two  more  bulls  appeared  over  the  rising 
ground,  with  tails  up  (a  sign  of  mischief),  and  making  direct  for 
us.  My  first  impulse  was  to  load,  arid  be  prepared  to  receive 
our  pursuers ;  but  in  the  heat  of  the  last  battle  I  had  dropped 
my  powder-flask.  Nothing  therefore  remained  wherewith  to 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  283 

defend  ourselves  but  our  knives,  which  we  clutched  desperately, 
taking  up  a  position  behind  the  carcass  of  our  former  antagonist. 

The  brutes  advanced  furiously ;  flight  would  have  been  im 
possible  ;  we  deemed  our  case  hopeless.  At  the  moment  when 
the  bulls  were  within  two  hundred  yards  of  us,  we  were  unex 
pectedly  cheered  by  a  loud  shout,  and,  with  delight  inappreciable 
by  any  one  who  has  not  been  in  a  similar  predicament,  we  saw 
all  the  surveyors  hastening  to  our  assistance,  some  with  guns, 
others  with  boats'  stretchers,  and  one  with  a  very  suspicious  in 
strument,  which  looked  marvelously  like  a  theodolite-stand. 

This  timely  diversion  had  the  desired  effect.  The  bulls  stopped 
short,  and  our  allies  giving  a  shout,  turned  tail  and  fled. 

We  now  cut  up  the  carcass  of  the  bull  I  had  slain,  carried 
the  joints  down  to  the  boat  and  then  proceeded  to  prepare  lunch. 
Four  men  were  employed  to  collect  "  diddledee ;'**  one  was  sent 
with  my  rifle  to  procure  a  couple  of  geese,  and  another  was 
busied  in  lighting  a  fire.  In  a  very  short  time  a  heap  of  wood 
was  fiercely  blazing,  arid  a  couple  of  geese  lying  beside  it. 

Our  cookery  was  not  very  elaborate  :  the  man  whom  we 
deputed  to  officiate  cut  off  the  heads  of  the  birds,  pulled  out  the 
long  wing- feathers,  and  rolling  up  the  bodies  in  a  heap  of  "  did- 
dledee,"  committed  them  to  the  flames.  In  about  twenty  minutes 
the  geese  were  thoroughly  roasted,  and  unceremoniously  kicked 
out  of  the  fire.  Thus  dressed,  they  looked  exactly  like  two  balls 
of  cinder  :  this  dirty  appearance,  however,  vanished  on  skinning 
them,  when  they  were  as  white  as,  and  seemed  much  more 
delicate  than  their  tame  brethren  with  all  the  sophisticated 
treatment  of  a  scientific  cook.  The  insides  were  not  disturbed 
during  the  process  of  roasting,  or  rather  burning,  in  order  to  pre 
vent  the  juices  of  the  flesh  from  being  dried  up. 

*  A  small  shrub,  of  so  inflammable  a  nature  that  it  will  burn  fierce 
ly  even  when  soaked  in  water.  The  above  name  is  given  to  it  by  the 
sailors. 


284  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

These  birds,  together  with  a  few  beefsteaks  from  the  beast 
just  killed,  made  (considering  we  were  in  the  wilderness)  a  most 
sumptuous  luncheon,  salt  and  biscuit  being  always  carried  with 
us.  After  our  repast  we  lighted  our  cigars,  and  being  still 
further  animated  by  a  potent  glass  of  grog, 

S 

"  Fought  all  our  battles  o'er  again, 
And  thrice  we  routed  all  our  foes,  and  thrice  we  slew  the  slain." 

I  am  sure  we  enjoyed  our  entertainment  in  these  primeval  soli 
tudes  with  greater  zest  than  could  have  been  felt  in  nine-tenths 
of  the  sumptuous  pic-nics  at  Richmond  or  elsewhere — always 
excepting  the  irresistible  charms  of  ladies'  eyes,  of  which,  alas  ! 
we  were  destitute. 

After  spending  a  reasonable  time  in  this  wild  pleasure,  I  re 
turned  to  the  vessel,  and  the  surveyors  resumed  their  work. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Traces  of  wild  Pigs — An  Attack  on  the  Swine — Its  Failure — A  Sea-lion — 
— A  Man  missing. — Search  for  him — Discovery — Cause  of  his  Disappear 
ance — Necessary  Precaution  in  wandering  about  uninhabited  Lands — 
Shooting  Excursion — Exploit  of  the  Dog,  La  Porte — Wild  Lake — As 
cent  of  Mount  Pleasant — Nervous  Work — Fixing  the  Theodolite-stand 
— Extensive  but  barren  Bird's-eye  View — Freezing  Temperature — Con 
certed  Signals — Singular  Effects — A  huge  Eagle  on  the  Mountain  Peak 
— Fierceness  of  the  wild  Cattle — Gales,  with  Snow  and  Sleet — Practice 
with  the  Broadsword — Mysterious  Incident — Termination  of  our  Survey 
and  Wild  Sports, 

A  FEW  evenings  after  this,  having  surveyed  the  upper  part  of 
the  harbor,  we  dropped  down  toward  the  entrance  and  moored 
abreast  of  a  long,  narrow  tussock-islet.  On  examining  this  the 
next  day,  we  discovered  traces  of  pigs ;  and  an  officer  having 
caught  sight  of  one  wandering  along  the  beach  "  at  his  own 
sweet  will"  (an  enjoyment  seldom  permitted  to  pigs),  punished 
the  vagabond  by  knocking  him  over  in  fine  style  at  a  distance  of 
sixty  yards,  with  no  better  weapon  than  a  short  ship's  musket. 

This  exploit  set  us  all  agog  for  pork — a  delicacy  which  we 
esteemed  the  more,  as  relieving  us  from  the  toujours  bwuf. 
Being  thus  haunted  with  delectable  visions  of  griskins,  spare-ribs, 
chines,  black-puddings,  sausages,  &c.,  we  planned,  in  our  enthu 
siasm,  an  attack  on  the  swine. 

To  secure  such  a  culinary  luxury  was  an  affair  of  serious  im 
portance,  and  we  set  about  it  seriously  in  the  following  manner ; 
viz.,  first,  a  man  with  a  boat's  flag  stuck  on  a  boat-hook  march 
ed  down  the  centre  of  the  tussock  ;  and  though  he  himself  was 


286  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

invisible  in  consequence  of  the  great  height  of  the  leaves,  his 
banner  flaunted  gayly  above,  and  was  plainly  visible  to  all. 
Every  now  and  then  he  sounded  a  little  hunting-horn,  which 
was  responded  to  by  hearty  cheers  from  six  men  on  either  side, 
who,  inspired  by  love  of  pig-meat,  and  armed  with  boarding- 
pikes,  were  so  spread  out  as  to  take  up  nearly  the  whole  breadth 
of  the  island,  thrashing  and  hallooing  with  all  their  might. 
About  two  hundred  yards  in  advance  stood  myself,  rifle  in  hand, 
backed  by  my  boy  with  another  gun ;  and  on  each  side  of  me, 
at  about  eighty  yards,  were  two  of  our  best  shots. 

"The  deuce  is  in  it,"  thought  I,  exultingly,  "if  we  shan't 
revel  in  pork  now,  both  fresh  and  to  pickle." 

It  was  an  invigorating  anticipation.  On  came  the  beaters 
with  shouts  of  expected  triumph.  They  were  formed,  like  the 
Spanish  Armada,  in  a  half-moon,  the  horns  rather  in  advance  ; 
but,  also  like  that  redoubtable  armament ;  our  present  enterprise 
ended  in  a  ludicrous  failure.  The  pigs  were  so  stupid  (poor 
wild,  benighted  creatures  !)  that  they  would  not  come  to  be  killed 
and  cooked.  Our  exquisite  generalship  was  thrown  away  ;  we 
bagged  only  one  little  boar,  and  even  that  exploit  was  owing  riot 
to  human  but  to  canine  agency.  La  Porte  had  seized  the  strag 
gler  firmly  by  the  back,  and  held  him  there,  squeaking  terribly, 
till  we  came  up  and  captured  him  alive. 

But  though  we  could  not  achieve  a  success  adequate  to  our 
gallant  preparation  and  array  of  force,  we  consoled  ourselves  in 
the  reflection  that  we  had  "  done  more — deserved  it." 

During  our  pig-hunt  we  were  tantalized  every  moment  by  a 
clownish  penguin,  which  would  first  pop  out  his  head  to  survey 
us,  and  then  stalk  by  with  grave  and  silent  contempt.  He 
evidently  saw  that  the  swine  would  outwit  us,  and  participated 
•n  the  triumph  of  the  quadrupeds. 

At  length  a  desperate  rustling  gave  notice  that  something 
large  was  at  hand  ;  and  immediately  after,  to  our  infinite  disap- 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  287 

pointment,  for  we  had  calculated  on  the  advent  of  a  good  fat 
hog,  out  waddled  a  sea-lion.  The  beast's  huge  logger-head  was 
hardly  visible,  when  it  formed  a  target  for  our  guns,  of  all  which 
the  contents  crashed  into  his  skull  nearly  at  the  same  moment. 
Down  he  dropped  immediately,  and  only  showed  that  life  re 
mained  by  writhing  for  a  few  minutes. 

On  one  of  our  excursions  ashore,  the  following  singular  cir 
cumstance  occurred.  I  have  read  in  medical  and  other  works 
instances  of  a  similar  nature,  but  never  witnessed  one.  "We  had 
breakfasted  early  and  hastily  one  morning,  in  order  to  have  a 
long  day  before  us,  and  at  seven  o'clock  landed  for  beef.  Having 
walked  three  hours,  we  wounded  and,  after  a  running  skirmish 
of  two  miles,  killed  a  fine  cow.  This  was  very  fatiguing  work. 
We  then  rested  a  short  time,  and  began  to  retrace  our  steps  to 
ward  the  shore,  in  doing  which  we  shot  a  calf,  thus  adding  con 
siderably  to  our  load. 

As  I  had  only  five  persons  with  me,  I  did  not  take  the  usual 
precautions  for  keeping  my  party  together ;  and,  on  stopping  to 
rest,  I  found  that  a  portly  marine  was  missing.  Taking  the 
least  tired  of  my  men,  I  went  back  some  distance  to  look  for  the 
absentee,  and  having  paced  two  weary  miles,  was  nearly  giving 
up  the  search,  when  we  observed  a  flock  of  caranchos  poised 
nearly  motionless  in  the  air. 

My  companion  shrewdly  judged  that  the  birds  were  balancing 
themselves  over  our  lost  one ;  and,  on  going  up  to  the  place,  I 
found  his  suspicions  correct.  The  marine  was  lying  on  his  face 
as  if  fast  asleep,  while  a  couple  of  caranchos  sat  watching  him 
within  two  feet  of  his  head. 

Thinking  this  was  only  a  lazy  fit,  and  being  tired  and  angry, 
1  brought  the  whole  weight  of  my  rifle  down  on  a  well-covered 
part  of  his  frame,  causing,  to  my  surprise,  only  a  deep  groan ; 
and  we  ascertained  that  the  fat  lout  had  lost  all  power  of  move 
ment,  and  could  not  even  lift  his  arm.  We  were,  therefore, 


288  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

under  the  necessity  of  carrying  his  heavy  body  back  to  our  party, 
who  were  then  at  least  six  miles  from  the  beach. 

On  our  arrival  there,  we  tried  to  recover  him ;  but,  as  he  did 
not  appear  to  rnend,  we  were  obliged  by  turns  to  carry  him  the 
whole  way — and  weary  work  it  was.  We  did  not  get  in  sight 
of  the  vessel  till  past  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  people 
on  board,  feeling  rather  alarmed  at  our  protracted  absence, 
luckily  kept  a  good  look  out,  and  a  boat  was  on  shore  nearly 
as  soon  as  we  arrived  on  the  beach. 

Having  seen  the  patient,  our  doctor  said  that  nothing  but  food 
would  restore  him  ;  an  opinion  borne  out  by  the  fact,  inasmuch 
as  the  man  was  as  well  as  ever  after  a  good  meal.  His  total 
prostration  up  to  this  time  forcibly  impressed  me,  as  he  was  a 
young  and  powerfully  built  man.  I  afterward  learned  that  this 
was  not  a  very  uncommon  case,  when  violent  and  long-continued 
exercise  was  combined  with  an  empty  stomach.  Had  the  man 
been  left  all  night  in  the  wilderness,  he  would,  in  all  probability, 
have  died. 

As  it  was,  we  lost,  through  the  marine's  illness,  our  calf  and 
the  prime  parts  of  the  cow  which  we  intended  to  carry  on  board. 

When  first  we  arrived  at  the  Falklands,  I  used  almost  to  laugh 
at  one  of  the  orders  given  by  Captain  Sulivan,  that  no  one  be 
longing  to  the  vessel  should  be  allowed  to  go  on  shore  without  a 
companion ;  an  order  which  I  understand  was  rigidly  enforced 
by  Captain  Fitzroy,  while  in  command  of  the  "Beagle,"  which 
was  only  once  broken,  and  then  ended  fatally,  I  am  now  con 
vinced  that  it  is  a  very  necessary  precaution,  and,  if  strictly 
acted  on  in  all  uninhabited  or  unknown  countries,  would  be  the 
means  of  saving  many  valuable  lives.  Two  or  three  instances 
have  lately  occurred  of  persons  going  out  to  shoot  in  health  and 
spirits,  and  being  found  dead  the  following  morning.  Exhaustion 
and  exposure  to  the  weather  have,  in  most  cases,  produced  these 
melancholy  results ;  but  with  common  prudence  and  a  com- 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  289 

panion  there  is  little  or  nothing  to  fear,  especially  if  one  is  well- 
armed — a  practice  which  I  earnestly  recommend  to  all  persons 
who  are  desirous  to  return  home  with  a  whole  skin. 

As  I  was  a  passable  shot,  and  an  untiring  pedestrian,  I  was 
invited  by  Captain  Sulivan  to  accompany  him  to  the  top  of 
Mount  Pleasant,  a  hill  about  eight  miles  distant  from  our  an 
chorage.  The  morning  of  November  30th  being  beautiful  and 
calm,  we  determined  to  set  out,  and  accordingly  started  after  an 
early  breakfast,  having  two  men  with  us  to  carry  our  instru 
ments,  &c.  For  the  first  half-mile  we  amused  ourselves  very 
well  with  shooting  snipe  and  other  birds ;  but  we  were  speedily 
warned  by  the  bellowings  all  round  us  that  we  should  keep 
more  on  our  guard,  which  we  instantly  obeyed,  by  loading  our 
guns  with  ball  and  keeping  close  together. 

Thus  prepared,  we  advanced  about  a  mile  farther,  when  four 
bulls  drew  out  of  a  herd  and  manifested  symptoms  of  resenting 
our  invasion  of  their  territory.  Not  liking  the  look  of  the  enemy, 
we  slunk  back  a  short  distance,  and  made  a  detour  of  nearly 
two  miles  to  get  clear.  La  Porte,  however,  suddenly  dashed 
away,  and  for  nearly  twenty  minutes  was  lost  to  us — much  to 
our  vexation,  as  he  was  a  most  puissant  ally.  Our  pleasure, 
therefore,  was  proportionately  great  when  we  perceived  him 
driving  toward  us  a  little  calf,  baa-ing  most  pitiably. 

The  moment  he  was  near  enough,  La  Porte  seized  the  ani 
mal's  nose,  and  held  it  until  we  came  up.  Our  first  impulse 
was  to  let  the  poor  thing  go ;  but  the  dog,  in  his  anxiety  to 
secure  his  prey,  had  broken  the  upper  jaw,  and  we  therefore  put 
an  end  to  the  creature's  sufferings  by  killing  it,  marking  the 
spot,  that  we  might  pick  it  up  on  our  return. 

After  this,  we  marched  on  through  the  wilderness,  still  in 
battle  array,  and  dispersed  a  small  herd,  out  of  which  the  dog 
captured  another  calf,  but  which,  being  uninjured,  we  let  go 
again. 

N 


290  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

At  length,  we  came  to  the  bank  of  a  large  lake,  whose  wide, 
unruffled  gleam,  quietly  reflecting  the  sky,  made  the  solitude 
look  more  solitary.  Through  this  sheet  of  water  we  in  vain 
attempted  to  wade,  and  were  finally  compelled  to  walk  round 
its  shore — a  great  addition  to  the  fatigue  of  our  journey,  which, 
though  in  a  straight  line  not  more  than  eight  miles,  amounted, 
by  these  necessary  deviations,  to  thirteen  or  fourteen,  and  prin 
cipally  among  long,  soft,  springy  grass,  eighteen  inches  high. 

About  one  o'clock  at  noon,  we  reached  the  base  of  the  mount, 
and  sat  down  beside  a  streamlet  winding  along  the  bottom. 
After  recovering  a  little  from  our  fatigue,  we  commenced  our 
ascent,  and  crossed  once  or  twice  a  long  line  of  those  stones 
mentioned  with  much  surprise  by  every  traveler  in  this  region. 
Some  were  so  large  that  we  could  not  have  got  on  them  with 
out  the  help  of  a  ladder.  But  what  struck  me  most  was,  that 
when  half-way  up,  we  could  hear,  on  listening  intently,  a  stream 
rapidly  running,  and  by  the  deadened  noise,  evidently  some  feet 
below  the  surface.  Half  an  hour's  more  toil  brought  us  to  the 
top  of  the  mount ;  but  here  our  progress  was  arrested  by  a  per 
pendicular  wall  of  rock  running  to  the  height  of  nearly  three 
hundred  feet. 

After  a  long  search,  we  found  a  practicable  breach.  Leaving 
our  guns  and  other  heavy  articles  behind,  we  scrambled  up  as 
well  as  we  could — no  easy  matter,  from  the  nature  of  the  rock 
and  the  incumbrance  of  the  theodolite-stand,  which  we  intended 
to  erect  so  as  to  take  a  round  of  angles  from  the  very  summit. 

With  difficulty  we  gained  the  apex,  but  so  sharp  was  it  that 
we  could  not.  fix  the  stand,  and  were  obliged,  cross-legged,  to 
drag  ourselves  over  a  short  ridge  to  a  better  place.  This  was 
rather  nervous  work,  for  my  left  leg  hung  over  the  perpendicu 
lar  wall  as  completely  at  right  angles  with  the  surface  of  the 
earth  as  if  the  side  had  been  built  with  a  plumb-line. 

On  this  narrow  altitude  we  had  room  to  fix  the  stand,  pre- 


WILD  SPOUTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  291 

paratory  to  making  the  "observations."  A  perfect  bird's-eye 
view  was  now  beheld  of  nearly  the  whole  of  the  southern  part 
of  the  east  island  from  the  range  of  Wickham  Heights.  The 
prospect  was  grand  on  account  of  its  extent,  though  I  could  not 
have  imagined  any  thing  so  apparently  barren  and  comfortless ; 
the  grass  seemed  every  where  brown  and  parched,  and  innumer 
able  lakes  of  all  forms  and  sizes  gave,  with  their  wan  gleam,  a 
melancholy  effect  to  the  view.  I  tried  several  times  without 
success,  to  count  the  cattle  in  sight ;  but,  after  repeated  attempts, 
gave  up  the  endeavor.  The  temperature  was  bitterly  cold,  al 
though  a  dead  calm ;  and  large  icicles  were  hanging  in  various 
fantastic  shapes  from  all  the  overhanging  points  of  rock. 

Before  leaving  the  vessel,  we  had  made  arrangements  with 
Mr.  Bodie  (the  master)  that  we  should  announce  our  arrival  on 
the  summit  of  the  rock  by  lighting  a  fire,  the  smoke  of  which 
would  direct  him  to  let  fall  the  topsail,  and  fire  a  gun  exactly 
five  minutes  after  (to  a  second).  By  this  sound  we  expected  to 
get  the  distance.  Collecting  what  material  we  could  for  igni 
tion,  and  having  settled  ourselves  in  comfortable  positions  to 
watch  with  our  Dollonds,  the  word  was  given  to  light  the  fire. 

In  a  moment,  a  small  column  of  smoke  slowly  ascended.  (We 
afterward  heard  that  the  effect,  as  seen  from  the  vessel,  was 
beautiful ;  the  vapor  being  visible  to  the  naked  eye,  and  ascend 
ing  like  a  tiny  thread  from  the  very  peak  of  the  mountain  to  a 
great  height,  until  dissipated  by  the  upper  currents  of  air.)  No 
sooner  was  this  seen,  than  it  was  responded  to  by  a  dozen  dimin 
utive  objects,  descried  through  our  glasses,  climbing  up  the  rig 
ging  like  ants.  A  moment  after,  a  small  speck  of  white  became 
visible,  which  announced  to  us  the  fall  of  the  topsail.  As  the 
second-hand  of  Captain  Sulivan's  chronometer  reached  the  five 
minutes,  a  thin  puff  of  smoke  appeared  to  spurt  out  of  the  ves 
sel's  side.  All  was  now  attention  to  catch  the  sound ;  but  we 
were  too  far  off. 


292  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

During  the  time  we  remained  up  here,  not  a  single  noise  dis 
turbed  the  death-like  silence,  neither  was  the  solitude  invaded 
by  any  other  living  object  than  ourselves,  excepting  that  a  huge 
eagle  alighted  to  plume  himself  on  a  pinnacle  within  twelve 
yards  of  the  theodolite. 

After  descending  with  some  trouble,  we  picked  up  our  guns, 
&c.,  and  commenced  our  return.  The  homeward  journey  was 
a  painful  one  ;  as  our  two  men,  not  being  accustomed  to  such 
long  walks,  were  knocked  up,  and  the  wild  cattle,  as  though 
they  knew  we  were  fatigued,  were  bolder  and  fiercer  than  in  the 
morning.  One  beast  chased  us  to  the  edge  of  a  morass,  in 
which  we  were  glad  to  take  refuge.  Finding  from  the  nature 
of  the  ground  that  he  could  not  get  at  us,  he  worked  himself  up 
into  a  state  of  madness,  which  was  not  at  all  allayed  by  a 
couple  of  ounces  of  lead  which  we  sent  into  his  body. 

Not  wishing  to  be  benighted,  we  hastened  on,  and  having 
found  the  calf  we  had  killed  in  the  morning,  got  safely  on  board 
at  seven  o'clock  to  a  capital  dinner,  of  which  the  only  fault  was 
a  total  absence  of  vegetables. 

A  succession  of  heavy  southwest  gales,  with  snow  and  sleet, 
put  a  stop,  during  five  days,  to  all  out-of-door  work.  In  the 
evenings  we  were  much  at  a  loss  how  to  find  amusement,  as  all 
the  books  in  the  ship  had  been  read  and  re-read  dozens  of  times. 
I  hardly  know  how  we  should  have  diverted  the  tcedium  vita, 
had  I  not,  before  leaving  England,  luckily  provided  myself  with 
several  single-sticks  and  hilts  from  my  esteemed  friend  Mr.  H. 
Angelo,  of  whom  I  am  proud  to  acknowledge  myself  a  pupil  ; 
and  whose  skill  in  the  art  of  offense  and  defense  in  the  use  of 
the  broadsword  is  above  that  of  any  other  professor  I  ever  met 
with.  Our  people  took  great  delight  in  this  exercise ;  and,  by 
imparting  the  knowledge  I  had  acquired  under  Mr.  Angelo,  I  so 
trained  my  men,  that  I  flatter  myself  few  of  Her  Majesty's  ships 
could  have  turned  out  a  crew  equal  to  the  "  Arrow's"  ship's 


WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS.  293 

company  in  expertness  with  that  thoroughly  English  weapon, 
the  broadsword. 

We  were  now  beset  by  a  succession  of  heavy  gales.  I  landed 
only  once,  and  that  was  abreast  the  vessel  for  an  hour  or  two. 
With  the  assistance  of  the  crew,  I  managed  to  haul  our  little 
dingy  over  a  small  bank,  and  launch  her  again  in  a  fresh-water 
lake,  where  in  a  very  short  time  we  bagged  upward  of  sixty  teal, 
and  double  the  number  of  various  other  birds,  not  mentioned  in 
the  game-list. 

On  Sunday,  the  10th  of  December,  the  gale  had  increased  pro 
digiously.  It  was  well  for  the  little  ship,  which  rode  to  three 
anchors,  that  the  holding-ground  and  our  ground-tackle  were  so 
good  ;  for,  with  all  our  precautions,  and  though  nothing  was  left 
to  hold  wind,  but  the  bare  lower  masts  and  hull,  we  were  in 
momentary  fear  of  going  adrift.  We  could  hardly  hear  the  church 
service  performed,  even  on  the  lower  deck,  with  the  hatches 
down,  so  loud  was  the  roaring  of  the  gale. 

About  sunset,  as  usual,  the  wind  gradually  sank  to  a  hoarse 
murmur,  and  at  midnight  we  had  fine  weather  once  more,  the 
stars,  shining  as  brilliantly  as  if  within  the  tropics.  Such  sud 
den  alterations  form  one  of  the  marked  peculiarities  of  the  Falk- 
lands. 

The  next  morning,  some  time  after  the  surveyors  had  departed, 
I  was  much  surprised  by  observing  a  large  column  of  smoke  rising 
several  miles  to  the  southward.  This,  naturally  enough,  caused 
great  excitement  among  us,  as  we  knew  our  party  had  gone 
in  an  opposite  direction.  So  strange  an  incident  in  an  uninhabited 
island  brought  to  my  recollection  Robinson  Crusoe's  discovery  of 
the  foot-print  of  a  man  on  the  desolate  sea-shore.  All  manner 
of  conjectures  were  hazarded,  and  truly  some  of  them  were  wild 
enough. 

The  next  morning,  as  soon  as  I  could  spare  them,  I  sent  off 
four  steady  fellows,  well  armed  ;  but  nothing  could  they  discover 


294  WILD  SPORTS  OF  THE  FALKLANDS. 

save  the  remains  of  a  fire,  a  few  singed  feathers,  and  a  very  old- 
fashioned  rusty  hatchet  without  a  handle.  Imagining  some  ship 
wrecked  mariners  might  be  near,  we  fired  a  blue-light  as  soon  as 
it  was  dark,  and  then  a  sky-rocket,  but  without  any  result.  Who 
could  the  adventurers  have  been  ? 

Two  days  more  were  sufficient  to  finish  the  Choiseul  Sound ; 
and  early  on  the  following  morning  we  sent  both  our  boats  sound 
ing  down  toward  the  entrance.  At  two  o'clock  we  followed  them 
in  the  vessel.  About  twelve  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  sound 
we  perceived  a  splendid  little  harbor  on  the  northern  shore,  where 
we  anchored  for  the  night,  intending  to  leave  the  next  morning  ; 
but  unsettled  and  tempestuous  weather  detained  us  several  days, 
which,  though  a  grievous  infliction  to  us  at  the  time,  was  pleas 
ant  in  its  results,  as  we  had  a  most  gallant  and  satisfactory 
campaign  in  our  Wild  Sports  in  this  part  of  the  Falklarids. 


SUPPLEMENT   TO   THE  FALKLAND^. 


IT  is  not  to  this  day  known  if  our  government  was  informed  of 
Spain  having  purchased  the  French  settlement  made  by  de  Bou 
gainville.  However  this  maybe,  we  find  in  the  year  1769,  that 
England  had  a  frigate  and  sloop  at  the  Falklands.  Captain 
Hunt  of  the  "  Tamar  "  frigate,  being  on  a  cruise  in  the  neighbor 
hood,  fell  in  with  a  schooner  belonging  to  the  Spanish  settlement 
of  Port  Solidad.  Captain  Hunt,  in  pursuance  of  his  orders,  warned 
this  schooner  off  the  coast,  which,  he  asserted,  belonged  to  his 
Britannic  Majesty.  The  schooner  immediately  departed ;  but, 
in  the  course  of  a  few  days,  returned  with  a  Spanish  officer,  with 
letters  and  a  present  from  Don  Philip  Ruez  Puenta,  governor  of 
Port  Solidad.  The  letters  were  couched  in  terms  of  the  greatest 
civility.  The  Don  pretended  to  disbelieve  the  account  he  had  heard 
from  the  captain  of  the  schooner  ;  but  attributed  Captain  Hunt's 
being  in  those  seas,  to  chance  or  distress  of  weather  ;  and  upon 
that  presumption  offered  him  eveiy  assistance  and  kindness  in 
his  power ;  though,  if  he  should  be  otherwise  engaged  there,  the 
Don  reminded  him  of  the  violation  of  treaties,  asserted  his  master's 
dominion  over  that  part  of  the  world,  charged  him  hypothetically 
with  insulting  the  Spanish  flag,  and  ordered  the  officer  formally 
to  warn  him  off  the  coast,  at  his  peril  ;  at  the  same  time  desiring 
a  written  answer. 

Captain  Hunt,  in  reply,  asserted  the  sole  dominion  of  the  King 
of  England,  as  well  by  right  of  discovery,  as  of  settlement,  and 


SUPPLEMENT  TO  THE  FALKLAND8. 


warned  the  Spaniard,  in  his  Britannic  Majesty's  name,  and  by 
his  orders,  forthwith  to  quit  the  coast,  and,  that  he  should  not  be 
inconvenienced  thereby,  allowed  him  six  months  from  the  date 
of  his  letter,  to  prepare  for  his  departure. 

The  Spanish  officer  made  a  formal  protest,  as  well  upon  the 
grounds  here  mentioned,  as  upon  Captain  Hunt's  refusing  to  let 
him  visit  the  settlement.  His  threatening  to  fire  into  the 
Spanish  schooner,  upon  her  attempting  to  enter  the  harbor, 
exasperated  the  Don,  who  also  protested  against  the  English 
captain  going  to  Solidad,  which  he  had  proposed  in  an  amicable 
manner,  and  declared  that  it  should  be  considered  as  an  insult. 

This  produced,  about  a  fortnight  subsequently,  another  letter, 
another  answer,  and  another  protest.  In  the  course  of  two 
months  after  this  transaction,  two  Spanish  frigates,  of  considera 
ble  force,  with  troops  on  board  for  the  new  settlement,  arrived  at 
Port  Egmont,  under  pretense  of  wanting  water.  The  command- 
er-in-chief  wrote  a  letter  to  Captain  Hunt,  in  which  he  expressed 
great  astonishment  at  seeing  the  English  flag  flying,  and  a  kind 
of  settlement  formed  ;  charged  him  with  a  violation  of  the  last 
peace,  and  protested  against  the  act  in  all  its  parts.  He  declared, 
at  the  same  time,  that  he  would  abstain  from  any  manner  of 
proceeding,  till  he  had  acquainted  his  Catholic  Majesty  with 
this  disagreeable  affair.  Captain  Hunt,  as  before,  founded  his 
possession  on  the  claim  of  right,  justifying  his  conduct  by  the 
orders  of  his  sovereign,  and  again  warned  the  Spaniards,  to 
depart  totally  from  these  islands.  The  Spanish  frigates  continued 
eight  days  at  Port  Egmont,  and  were  supplied  by  our  people  with 
water.  The  captains  and  officers  behaved  with  civility,  and 
declined  going  on  shore,  though  permission  was  offered  by  Captain 
Hunt. 

As  these  transactions  seemed  indicative  of  some  such  conse 
quences  as  followed,  the  English  commander  deemed  it  right,  as 
soon  as  possible,  to  depart  for  England  with  an  account  of  the 


SUPPLEMENT  TO  THE  FALKLAND!?.  297 

whole  proceeding.  On  the  3d  of  June,  1770,  he  arrived  at 
Plymouth,  and  immediately  sent  an  express  to  the  Admiralty. 

The  "  Favorite"  sloop,  Captain  Maltby,  succeeded  the  "  Tamar," 
at  Port  Egmont;  and,  with  the  "  Swift,"  Captain  Farmer,  each 
of  sixteen  guns,  formed  the  whole  force  on  that  station.  This 
was,  however,  soon  lessened,  by  the  "  Swift,"  being  wrecked  in 
the  Straits  of  Magellan,  where  she  had  gone  to  explore  :  the 
ship's  company,  except  three,  were  fortunately  saved,  but  were 
still  liable  to  perish  by  that  greatest  of  all  calamities,  hunger,  if 
the  fortitude  and  bravery  of  a  small  part  of  the  crew  had  not 
saved  the  whole.  These  brave  men,  in  a  small  open  cutter, 
undertook  a  voyage  of  about  three  weeks,  in  the  most  boisterous 
seas  in  the  world  ;  and,  having  happily  and  miraculously  arrived 
at  Port  Egmont  brought  the  ':  Favorite"  to  their  relief. 

It  was  not  long  after  this  loss,  that  a  Spanish  frigate  put  into 
Port  Egmont  under  the  pretense,  that  having  been  fifty-three 
days  from  Buenos  Ayres,  she  was  in  great  distress  for  water. 
Three  days  subsequently,  four  other  frigates  hove  in  sight ;  and 
it  soon  appeared  that  they  had  been  only  twenty-six  days  at  sea, 
and  had  been  separated  a  short  time  before  in  a  heavy  gale. 

The  squadron  now  threw  off  the  mask  of  deception,  and 
announced  that  they  had  arrived  at  the  place  of  their  destination. 
These  five  frigates  carried  one  hundred  and  thirty- four  pieces  of 
cannon,  arid  had  between  sixteeen  hundred  and  seventeen 
hundred  men,  including  soldiers  and  marines,  on  board  ;  besides 
which  they  brought  a  complete  battering  train,  and  other 
material,  sufficient  to  attack  a  regular  fortification,  instead  of  a 
miserable  wooden  block-house,  which  had  not  even  a  port-hole 
cut  in  it,  and  only  four  small  pieces  of  cannon,  which  at  that 
time  were  sunk  in  the  mud,  to  defend  it. 

A  Spanish  broad  pennant  was  immediately  hoisted  on  the 
arrival  of  the  four  frigates  ;  and  as  no  doubt  of  their  intentions 
now  remained,  Captain  Farmer  ordered  most  of  the  officers  and 

N* 


SUPPLEMENT  TO  THE  FALKLANDS. 


men  who  had  belonged  to  the  "  Swift"  to  come  on  shore  for  the 
defense  of  the  settlement,  and  directed  Captain  Maltby  to  bring 
the  "  Favorite"  close  into  the  cove. 

On  the  first  motions  of  the  "  Favorite,"  one  of  the  Spanish 
frigates  sent  an  officer  on  board  to  acquaint  Captain  Maltby,  that 
if  he  weighed  they  would  fire  into  him  ;  he,  however,  got  under 
sail,  regardless  of  these  menaces,  and  the  frigate  fired  two  shots, 
which  fell  to  leeward  of  him.  Immediately  afterward  three  of 
the  Spaniards  weighed  and  beat  to  windward  in  company  with 
the  "  Favorite."  In  the  mean  time  Captain  Maltby  had  sent  a 
message  to  inquire  the  reason  of  the  shots  being  fired  ;  the  answer 
to  which  was,  they  were  intended  as  signals. 

From  the  first  appearance  of  these  vessels,  Captain  Farmer 
had  been  active  in  clearing  the  stores,  &c.,  out  of  the  block-house, 
and  in  endeavoring  to  make  it  as  defensible  as  its  nature  would 
permit.  The  crew  dragged  up,  with  much  difficulty,  four  pieces 
of  cannon  (which  had  originally  been  intended  to  protect  the 
landing-place)  from  the  mud  in  which  they  had  sunk,  from 
neglect,  and  placed  them  in  the  block-house,  clearing  out  the 
platform,  and  cutting  port-holes  to  make  them  effective. 

In  the  mean  time,  both  the  English  captains  had  written  to 
the  Spanish  commodore,  that,  "  as  he  had  been  furnished  with 
what  he  required,  they  requested  he  would  take  himself  off  forth 
with,  and  evacuate  the  whole  coast,  neglecting  which,  they 
threatened  him  with  the  ire  of  their  royal  master."  At  the 
same  time,  the  Spanish  admiral  wrote  to  them,  requesting  them, 
in  the  kindest  manner,  to  remember  his  great  strength,  and  the 
powerless,  and  defenseless  situation  they  were  in,  and  that  by 
quietly  going  away  they  would  prevent  his  forcing  them,  which 
would  obviate  any  disastrous  collision,  and  thus  hinder  the  possi 
bility  of  continuing  their  voyage  home. 

The  Spanish  commodore  now  offered,  that  if  the  British  com 
mander  would  quickly,  and  with  good-will,  abandon  the  place,  he 


SUPPLEMENT  TO  THE  FALKLANBS.  299 

would  land  his  troops  peaceably  and  quietly,  and  treat  them  with 
all  the  consideration  that  the  harmony  which  subsisted  between  the 
two  sovereigns  required ;  he  would,  in  that  case,  also  allow  them 
to  carry  away  all  their  effects  and  stores ;  and  if,  from  want  of 
time,  want  of  room,  or  any  other  cause,  any  thing  should  be  left 
behind,  he  would  give  a  receipt,  and  leave  the  matter  to  be  settled 
by  their  respective  governments.  But  if,  contrary  to  expectation, 
they  should  endeavor  to  maintain  their  footing  on  the  islands,  he 
would  immediately  proceed  to  the  fulfillment  of  his  orders  ;  and  in 
that  case  threatened  them,  in  the  most  pompous  terms,  with  an 
attack  by  sea  and  land,  and  all  the  consequences  of  fire  and  sword. 
He  concluded  by  an  assurance  that  if  a  decided  and  favorable 
answer  was  not  returned  in  fifteen  minutes,  he  would  commence 
operations ;  and  talked  largely  of  the  spirit  and  brilliancy  with 
which  his  land  and  sea  forces  would  begin  the  onslaught.  At 
the  same  time  he  recommended  them  to  meditate  upon  the  fatal 
consequences  which  their  obstinacy  would  bring  upon  the  un 
offending  British  subjects. 

To  these  truly  Spanish  effusions  our  officers  returned  for  an 
swer  that  words  were  not  deeds,  and  that  they  could  not  believe 
that,  in  a  time  of  profound  peace,  and  when  the  greatest  harmony 
subsisted  between  England  and  Spain,  he  would  attempt  to  put 
his  threats  into  execution.  That  they  did  not  doubt  he  was 
thoroughly  convinced  that  the  King,  their  master,  was  sufficiently 
capable  to  demand  satisfaction  in  all  parts  of  the  globe,  of  any 
power  whatsoever  that  should  offer  to  insult  the  British  flag  ;  and 
if  the  time  was  limited  to  one  minute  instead  of  fifteen,  it  should 
not  alter  their  determined  resolution,  to  defend  to  the  utmost  of 
their  power  the  charge  committed  to  them. 

Previously  to  the  attack  the  Spanish  admiral,  to  show  the  use- 
lessness  of  any  resistance,  requested  that  some  of  our  officers  might 
be  sent  to  view  the  number  and  condition  of  the  troops  and  ar 
tillery  that  were  ready  to  be  landed  :  which  was  accordingly 


300  SUPPLEMENT  TO  THE  FALKLAND. 

complied  with  the  same  evening,  and  found  by  the  British  officers 
as  described.  Immediately  afterward  the  Spanish  frigates  warp 
ed  in  close  to  the  block-house. 

At  night  Captain  Maltby  landed  with  fifty  of  the  "  Favorite's" 
men,  and  brought  with  them  two  six-pounders,  small  aimrf  and 
ammunition.  The  next  morning  a  part  of  the  Spanish  troops  dis 
embarked  half  a  mile  to  the  northward  of  our  people  ;  and  when 
they  had  advanced  half  way  toward  the  English  station  the  rest 
of  their  boats  pushed  off  from  the  frigate,  and  pulled  in  directly 
for  the  cove,  being  covered  by  the  fire  of  the  frigate,  which  passed 
over  the  block-house. 

"Our  people,"  states  the  '  Annual  Register,'  "  fired  some  shot ; 
but,  seeing  the  impossibility  of  defending  the  settlement,  and  the 
Spaniards  having  now  broken  through  all  the  limits  of  peace  and 
amity,  even  to  the  actual  committal  of  hostilities,  so  that  their 
conduct  was  neither  capable  of  being  denied,  or  explained  away  ; 
our  officers,  as  they  had  judiciously  led  them  to  this  explicit 
avowal,  and  supported  the  honor  of  their  own  country,  as  far  as 
the  means  in  their  hands  would  admit  of,  with  the  same  propri 
ety  preferred  saving  the  valuable  lives  of  their  people,  and  leav 
ing  the  injury  to  be  redressed  by  their  country,  to  the  throwing  of 
them  away  in  an  unavailing  contest,  which  afforded  neither  a 
possibility  of  gaining  any  advantage,  or  a  hope  of  obtaining  honor. 
They  accordingly  hung  out  the  flag  of  truce,  and  demanded  ar 
ticles  of  capitulation. 

"  These  articles  were  concluded  between  the  Captains  Farmer 
and  Maltby  on  the  one  side,  and  Don  John  Ignacio  Madariaga, 
Major-General  of  the  royal  navy  of  his  Catholic  Majesty,  on  the 
other.  The  substance  of  them  was,  that  in  a  certain  limited  time, 
but  discretionary  on  the  part  of  the  commodore,  the  English  were 
permitted  to  depart  in  the  '  Favorite,'  and  to  take  with  them 
such  part  of  the  stores  as  they  chose,  or  she  could  conveniently 
carry ;  that  an  inventory  should  be  made  of  all  the  stores,  and 


SUPPLEMENT  TO  THE  FALKLANDS.  301 

the  remainder  deposited  in  the  hands  of  the  Governor  of  Solidad, 
xvho  was  to  become  answerable  for  them  ;  that  the  English  flag 
was  to  continue  flying  on  shore  and  on  board  the  sloop  ;  but  that 
they  were  to  exercise  no  jurisdiction  except  with  their  own  peo 
ple  ;  and  that  they  should  be  allowed  to  march  off  at  the  time  of 
embarkation,  under  arms  with  drums  beating  and  colors  flying ; 
but  that  they  were  to  give  the  Spanish  commander  proper  notice, 
>hat  he  might  appoint  an  hour  for  their  departure,  as  they  were 
not  otherwise  to  be  armed. 

"  The  restrictions  with  respect  to  the  time  of  their  departure, 
were,  until  the  Governor  of  Solidad  or  his  deputy  should  arrive 
to  make  the  inventories,  and  to  take  charge  of  the  stores  (sup 
posing  that  they  were  to  arrive  within  forty  days),  and  until 
twenty  days  were  elapsed  after  the  sailing  of  a  Spanish  frigate, 
which  it  is  to  be  supposed  the  commander  intended  to  send  off 
as  an  express.  But  the  most  degrading  of  all  the  circumstances 
attending  this  transaction,  and  particularly  a  new,  and  to  all 
appearance  wanton  insult  to  the  British  flag,  was  that  for  the 
better  security  of  this  limitation,  the  '  Favorite,'  was  deprived  of 
her  rudder,  which  was  taken  off  and  kept  on  shore  during  the 
time  of  their  detention. 

"  As  the  Spaniards,  previous  to  this  expedition,  must  have 
been  tolerably  well  informed  of  the  state  of  our  settlement  at 
Port  Egmont,  nothing  can  appear  more  ridiculous  than  the  prep 
arations  they  made  for  it.  The  train  of  artillery  consisted  of 
twenty-seven  pieces  of  cannon,  from  twenty-four  pounders  down 
ward  ;  besides  four  mortars  of  six  inches,  four  hundred  bombs, 
and  all  other  kinds  of  ammunition  and  utensils,  proper  for  carry 
ing  on  a  siege,  in  proportion. 

"The  stores  which  our  people  left  behind,  were  considerable, 
both  in  quantity  and  value,  and  the  inventories  having  been 
properly  stated  and  authenticated,  as  well  as  the  stipulated  time 
elapsed  from  the  departure  of  the  Spanish  frigate,  the  '  Favorite' 


302  SUPPLEMENT  TO  THE  FALKLANDS, 

was  at  length  suffered  to  proceed  on  her  way  to  England,  with 
all  our  people  on  board.  She  accordingly  arrived  at  the  Moth- 
erbank,  near  Portsmouth,  on  the  22d  of  September,  after  a 
voyage  of  seventy  days,  by  which  it  appears  that  she  had  con 
tinued  at  Port  Egmont  thirty-four  days  after  the  signing  of  the 
capitulation." 

A  war  with  Spain  nearly  resulted  from  these  proceedings,  as 
the  public  mind  in  England  was  greatly  excited,  not  so  much 
on  account  of  any  supposed  value  of  the  Falklands,  as  by  the 
insolent  acts  of  the  Spanish  authorities.  The  celebrated  .Tunius 
brought  his  powerful  pen  to  bear  on  the  subject,  and  hostilities 
were  averted  only  by  Spain  relinquishing  to  Great  Britain,  in 
1771,  her  claim  to  the  sovereignty  of  the  islands  in  question,  which 
were  now  utterly  disregarded  by  all  nations.  In  1820,  the 
Republic  of  Buenos  Ayres  assumed  a  right  to  the  Falklands,  and 
a  colony  from  that  state  settled  at  Port  Louis,  which  increased 
rapidly,  until,  owing  to  a  dispute  with  the  Americans,  the  settle 
ment  was  destroyed  by  the  latter  in  1831.  Two  years  after 
ward,  the  British  flag  was  again  hoisted  at  Port  Louis  and  at 
Port  Egmont ;  and  His  Majesty's  ship  '  Tyne'  was  sent  to  take 
charge  of  the  islands  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  permanent  pos 
session. 


APPENDIX. 


HAVING  been  much  interested  by  the  newly-invented  plank  roads  which 
have  conferred  great  facilities  of  intercommunication  in  America,  and  being 
of  opinion  that  in  certain  English  localities,  particularly  in  some  of  our  lanes 
and  by-roads,  they  may  be  found  very  serviceable,  I  have  extracted,  by 
way  of  Appendix,  a  few  particulars  connected  with  the  origin,  construction, 
and  expense  of  plank  roads,  as  compared  with  the  formation  of  other  roads. 
This  information  is  derived  from  a  pamphlet  by  W.  Kingsford,  Esq.,  Civil 
Engineer  of  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  printed  in  Philadelphia  but  not 
known  in  this  country. 

"  Within  the  last  three  years,  the  plank  road  system  has  become  a  part 
of  the  economy  of  the  State  of  New- York.  Special  enactments  have  been 
made  to  meet  the  circumstance,  and  hence  in  the  western  part  of  the  State 
private  enterprise  has  been  abundantly  enlisted  in  this  species  of  improve 
ment.  So  satisfactory  have  been  the  results,  that  the  neighboring  and 
more  remote  southern  States,  have  commenced  to  inquire  what  are  the 
benefits  which  plank  roads  extend  ;  and  it  would  seem  that  this  improved 
mode  of  communication  is  likely  to  become  generally  introduced. 

"Very  little  has  hitherto  been  said  upon  the  subject,  and  the  writer 
has  thought  that  it  would  not  be  unacceptable  to  many,  to  enter  upon  an 
inquiry  as  to  the  mode  of  construction  and  the  probable  cost  of  plank 
roads,  and  their  advantages  and  disadvantages,  considered  in  connection 
with  the  old  roadway — bringing  forward  statements  of  the  results  which 
are  admitted  to  have  proceeded  immediately  from  the  introduction  of 
plank  roads.  It  must,  however,  be  allowed,  that  hitherto,  with  the  ad 
vantages  which  are  direct,  and  recognized  by  all.  some  demerits  have  been 
found.  These,  the  writer  believes  he  will  be  able  to  establish  to  have 
grown  up  from  vicious  principles  of  construction,  and  can  be  guarder 
against,  and  in  the  greater  part  averted  by  prudence  and  care. 


304  APPENDIX. 


"  HISTORY. 

"  The  first  plank  road  laid  down  in  this  continent  was  on  the  road  lead 
ing  east  from  Toronto,  during  the  government  of  Sir  Francis  Bond  Head, 
in  Upper  Canada,  in  1835-36.  And  the  fact  is  recorded  in  the  Report 
of  the  Commissioners  of  the  Younge  Street  road,  dated  29th  January, 
1837.  It  was  laid  down  experimentally,  with  twelve-feet  plank,  without  any 
principle  of  construction,  beyond  laying  the  plank  on  sleepers.  The  cir 
cumstance  is  thus  commented  upon  : 

"  '  The  trustees,  having  examined  the  piece  of  planked  road  made  last 
year,  and  finding  that  it  answered  a  much  better  purpose  than  could  have 
been  anticipated,  both  with  regard  to  the  ease  of  traveling,  and  the  very 
trifling  expense  attending  the  keeping  the  same  in  repair,  came  to  the  de 
termination  of  proceeding  with  it;  they  accordingly  contracted  with  the 
proprietor  of  the  steam  saw-mill  to  plank  one  mile,  which  was  completed 
in  a  very  short  time,  for  the  sum  of  £525  (2100  dollars),  exclusive  of 
forming  the  channels,  and  laying  on  a  coat  of  loam,  or  sand,  to  prevent 
the  wear  by  horses'  calks  and  friction  of  the  wheels.  They  beg  further  to 
state  the  road  has  given  more  general  satisfaction  to  the  country,  and  as 
it  is  evident  from  the  experience  they  have  already  had,  that  the  cost  at 
tending  it  is  very  little  more  than  one-fourth  of  a  stone  road ;  and  the 
expense  of  keeping  a  Macadamized  road  in  repair  being  greater  than  was 
anticipated,  they  have  altogether  abandoned  the  idea  of  Macadamizing,  and 
have  contracted  for  continuing  the  plank  road  early  next  season.' 

"  There  is  no  certainty  as  to  the  originator  of  the  experiment.  It  is, 
however,  generally  believed  to  have  been  Mr.  Darcy  Boulton. 

"During  the  following  year,  troubles  broke  out  in  Canada,  and  all  pub 
lic  works  were  stopped,  until  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Thomson  (afterward  Lord 
Sydenham),  when  an  impetus  was  given  to  the  whole  country.  The  Hon. 
Mr.  Hamilton  Killaly  was  appointed  President  of  the  Board  of  Works, 
and  under  his  direction  plank  roads  became  one  of  the  improvements  of 
the  day.  They  were  introduced  with  great  success  in  Upper  Canada.  In 
Lower  Canada,  Colonel  the  Hon.  George  Cathcart*  was  the  means  of 

*  The  late  Governor  of  the  Tower  of  London,  and  one  of  the  most  distinguished  cavalry 
officers  of  the  day.  Colonel  Cathcart  was  at  Waterloo,  as  aid-de-camp  of  the  Duke  of 
Wellington  ;  and  was  formerly  Colonel  of  the  King's  Dragoon  Guards.  He  is  one  of  the 
many  instances  of  military  men  bringing  to  civil  life  a  high  order  of  intellect,  which  serv 
ice  seems  to  have  quickened.  And  like  his  great  master,  he  thinks  no  detail  too  insig 
nificant,  no  labor  too  great.  The  C'hamhly  and  Longueil  road  was  constructed  princi 
pally  after  his  instructions. 


APPENDIX.  305 


the  first  plank  road  being  laid  down  between  Longueil  and  Chambly,  in 
1841. 

"As  yet,  nothing  had  been  done  in.  this  State  toward  bettering  the 
lines  of  communication,  and  it  was  reserved  for  the  city  of  Syracuse  to  be 
the  first  to  set  other  localities  an  example.  In  1837,  the  Salina  and 
Central  Square  road  was  laid  down  under  the  direction  of  the  Hon.  Mr. 
Geddes  and  Mr.  S.  Alvord,  who  are  entitled  to  the  credit  of  having  intro 
duced  the  plank  road  system  in  the  United  States,  and  of  having  contribu 
ted  most  of  the  improvements  on  the  modus  operandi  observed  in  Canada. 

"  One  can  not  help  contrasting  the  difference  in  the  progress  the  sys 
tem  has  made  in  Canada  and  in  the  State  of  New- York. 

"  In  the  former,  where,  dating  from  the  arrival  of  Lord  Sydenham,  plank 
roads  have  been  known  ten  years. 

•  Miles. 

Government  have  constructed 192 

And  private  enterprise  about  (this  total  is  assumed,  as  no 
statement  has  been  published) 250 

Total  miles 442 

In  the  State  of  New  York,  where  the  system  has  been  introduced  about 
four  years,  upward  of  two  thousand  one  hundred  and  six  miles  have  been 
registered,  and  are  constructed,  or  are  in  the  course  of  construction,  at  an 
average  cost  of  1833  dollars  per  mile. 


"COMPARISON  WITH  OTHER  ROADS. 

"  The  road  which  must  be  considered  principally  in  connection  with 
plank  roads  is  the  Macadam  road.  And  if  it  can  be  shown  that  the  cost 
of  a  plank  road  is  infinitely  less — that  it  is  easier  for  the  horse  to  draw 
upon — and  that  such  a  road  costs  less  for  repairs,  and  is  more  durable  than 
a  Macadam  road — the  proposition  of  superiority  may  be  considered  proven. 

"  The  question  of  draught  is  the  one  first  to  be  considered.  Experiment 
has  determined  the  load  which  a  horse  is  capable  of  drawing  on  the  plank 
road  to  be  so  weighty,  that  one  almost  hesitates  to  set  it  down  from  fear  of 
the  accusation  of  exaggeration.  On  the  Salina  and  Central  Road,  a  few 
weeks  back,  for  a  wager,  a  team  *  brought  in,  without  any  extraordinary 
strain,  six  tons  of  iron  from  Brewerton,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  to  Syra- 

*  Where  this  expression  is  made  use  of,  it  means  two  horses 


306  APPENDIX. 


cuse.  One  and  a  half  cords  of  green  beech  is  a  common  load,  which  is 
equivalent  to  90  cwt.  =  4|  tons.  And  there  is  so  little  resistance  on  a 
properly  constructed  road,  that  an  average  team  can  travel  with  this  load 
from  thirty  to  thirty-five  miles,  day  after  day,  at  the  rate  of  from  three  to 
four  miles  an  hour.  Indeed,  the  farmer  does  not  seem  to  make  any  calcu 
lations  of  the  weight  taken.  He  loads  his  wagon  as  best  he  can,  and  the 
only  care  is  not  to  exceed  the  quantity  which  it  will  carry;  whether  the 
team  can  draw  the  load,  is  not  a  consideration — for  those  who  travel  on 
plank  roads  affirm  that  the  only  danger  is  that  the  wagon  can  not  bear 
the  load,  not  that  the  horse  can  not  draw  it. 

"A  good  instance  of  what  can  be  accomplished  may  be  related  of  the 
Western  Road,  which  commences  at  Albany.  A  farmer  who  had  a  large 
timbered  farm,  having  sold  the  wood,  carted  it  to  the  side  of  the  plank 
road,  and  piled  it.  His  contract  was  to  take  the  wood  into  Albany,  a  dis 
tance  of  eleven  miles,  at  1'50  dollars  per  cord  for  hauling.  With  a  single 
team  his  load  consisted  of  a  cord  and  a  half,  and  having  engaged  to  trans 
port  plaster  for  a  miller,  at  75  cents  the  ton,  he  loaded  his  wagon  for 
the  return  trip,  which  was  weighed  in  the  usual  manner  for  the  adjustment 
of  the  carrying  account.  The  ordinary  load  was  three  tons.  The  trips 
backward  and  forward  were  easily  made  in  a  day.  Thus  his  receipts 
were 

Dollars. 

Cartage  1^  cord  of  hard  wood,  at  1'50  dollars 2'25 

3  tons  of  plaster,  at  75  cents     2'25 

4-50 
Payment  of  tolls,  11  miles  each  way,  22  at  'Ol£  dollars.  .      33 

Return  per  diem  .  , 4'17 

"That  great  loads  can  be  drawn  on  Macadam  roads  (or  metal  roads, 
as  they  are  often  called  in  America)  can  not  be  called  in  question,  but  at 
the  same  time  it  is  to  be  remarked  that,  on  the  first  construction  at  least, 
the  resistance  to  the  tractive  power  will  be  greater  than  on  the  smooth, 
even,  compact  surface  of  the  plank.  A  period  must  even  intervene  before 
the  metal  becomes  solid  :  and  those  who  have  at  all  watched  how  metal 
roads  are  influenced,  admit  the  necessity  of  constant  repairs.  In  and 
about  large  towns  the  main  Macadamized  avenues  have  annually  to  be 
covered  with  an  entire  coat  of  metal,  and  the  road,  to  be  kept  in  order,  has 
constantly  to  be  watched  from  the  day  the  stone  is  first  placed  upon  it. 

"Thus,  independently  of  the  difference  of  surface  of  the  best  metal  road 


APPENDIX.  307 


and  of  the  ordinary  plank  road,  constant  repairs  increase  the  resistance. 
When  newly  laid,  the  resistance  for  heavy  trains  on  the  latter  has  been 
calculated  variously  at  1  in  98,  and  at  1  in  70,  while  that  of  the  stone 
road  in  perfect  condition  is  named  at  1  in  67.  But  while  the  plank  road 
for  at  least  two  years  after  it  has  been  laid  down  retains  an  equality  of 
surface,  the  stone  road  is  never  in  such  order  that  so  low  a  ratio  of  resist 
ance  can  be  received.  In  ordinary  condition,  the  resistance  of  1  in  25  is 
received.  Taking  a  mean  of  the  two,  we  may  call  the  average  resistance 
of  the  Macadam  road  1  in  46. 

"  To  recapitulate,  we  have  the  two  resistances. 

"  On  the  plank  road  1  in  70. 

"  On  the  Macadam  road  1  in  46. 

"  Nor  can  it  be  said  that  this  comparison  is  much  exaggerated.  Even 
those  who  differ  from  it  supply  data  but  little  less  favorable.  The  com 
parison  even  continues  as  both  roads  are  worn.  On  the  Macadam  road 
the  detritus,  which  in  dry  weather  finds  vent  in  dust,  in  wet  weather 
exercises  considerable  resistance,  so  that  whatever  inequalities  exist  are 
felt  in  all  weathers.  Whereas  on  the  plank  road,  in  dry  weather,  the 
cavities  which  are  worn  are  traversed  imperceptibly  by  the  tire,  for  they 
are  closed  up  by  the  indurated  sand  and  earth  deposited  on  the  surface. 
But  in  wet  weather  it  is  not  so — the  sand  softened  by  water  offers  no  re 
sistance  to  the  tire,  which  sinks  down  to  the  worn  plank.  And  as  in  pine 
roads  the  surface  is  generally  worn  with  regularity,  although  inferior  to  a, 
new  road,  there  is  nothing  strikingly  objectionable  in  it,  after  it  has  been 
somewhat  worn. 

"  Some  comparison  can  therefore  be  made  between  a  Macadam  road 
and  a  plank  road  in  that  state.  In  dry  weather  the  planks,  being  pro 
tected  by  the  sand  placed  over  them,  present  a  hard  regular  surface ; 
while  on  the  Macadam  road  whatever  is  bad  is  felt  by  the  traveler  without 
counterbalancing  influences.  Nor  in  wet  weather  is  the  plank  much  deteri 
orated.  For  so  long  as  the  planks  are  firmly  fixed  and  do  not  spring, 
there  is  little  increased  friction  ;  but  with  regard  to  Macadamized  roads, 
independently  of  ruts  and  holes,  the  resistance  is  increased  by  the  pulver 
ized  stone,  formed  by  the  water  into  an  adhesive  matter  ;  so  much  so, 
that  a  word  has  been  appropriated  to  denote  this  state.  Thus,  to  speak 
of  '  heavy  roads'  is  to  convey  a  clear  and  definite  meaning.  It  is  there 
fore  apparent  that,  in  pursuing  the  inquiry  to  what  extent  the  tractive 
power  is  impeded  on  each  class  of  road,  in  the  different  stages  of  newly 
laid  and  out  of  repair,  the  superior  advantages  of  the  plank  road  become 
fully  established. 

"  Some  attempt  has  been  made  to  draw  comparisons  between  the  time 


308  APPENDIX. 


a  horse  will  last  on  a  Macadam  and  on  a  plank  road.  It  has  been  assert 
ed  that  horses  traveling  mostly  or  occasionally  over  plank  roads  are  ruined 
before  their  time.  But  it  will  be  found  that  this  opinion  rests  altogether 
upon  what  is  observed  to  occur,  either  when  the  plank  surface  is  badly 
constructed,  or  where  the  power  of  the  animal  is  mismanaged.  If,  for 
instance,  the  stringers  are  laid  without  care,  the  percolations  of  the  water 
increase  the  defect,  and  any  weight  passing  over  the  road  is  succeeded  by 
a  rebound,  varying  with  the  velocity  of  the  passage ;  and  it  is  this  rebound 
or  elasticity  which  operates  perniciously  on  the  horse.  It  is  only  necessary 
for  a  man  to  run  some  little  distance  on  a  causeway  having  this  defect,  and 
he  will  feel  at  once  the  difference  between  a  well  and  ill-constructed  road . 

"  Mismanagement  is  a  principal  and  frequent  cause  of  deterioration  of 
the  horse's  vitality  and  endurance.  Owing  to  the  trifling  resistance  en 
countered  on  a  plank  road,  and  the  consequent  ease  with  which  a  great 
weight  is  drawn,  drivers,  without  noting  the  rate  at  which  they  travel, 
press  their  horses  beyond  their  strength.  The  axiom  has  long  been  re 
ceived  that  it  is  speed,  not  weight,  which  destroys  the  horse.  '  It  is  the 
pace  that  kills.'  The  argument  against  the  plank  road  derived  from  this 
observation,  and  making  its  inference  from  the  very  excellence  of  the  road, 
is  palpably  vicious.  On  the  Albany  road  two  gentlemen  in  a  hired  buggy 
with  an  ordinary  hack,  went  a  distance  of  twelve  miles  out,  and  returned. 
This  was  in  the  month  of  April  last,  at  the  breaking  up  of  the  winter, 
when  the  other  roads  were  nearly  impassable.  The  distance  between  two 
gates,  five  miles,  was  performed  at  the  usual  natural  gait,  without  the 
animal  being  in  the  least  kept  up  to  his  work,  in  twenty-three  minutes 
going,  and  twenty-seven  minutes  returning.  On  their  return  to  Albany, 
the  horse  evinced  no  signs  of  fatigue. 

"  In  reality,  there  is  nothing  to  warrant  the  inference  that  the  horse  is 
a  sufferer  on  a  well-made  plank  road.  On  the  contrary,  it  may  be  said, 
without  contradiction,  that  the  horse,  when  not  pressed  beyond  his 
strength,  can  work  longer  and  be  always  in  better  condition  on  a  plank 
road  than  on  any  road  whatsoever. 

"  Sufficient  data  are  at  hand  to  form  a  proximate  ratio  of  the  superior 
advantages  of  the  plank  road. 

"The  preponderance  in.  favor  of  the  plank  road,  as  compared  with  a 
common  country  road,  may  be  stated  as  ranging  from  2^  to  1,  to  6  to  1 — 
varying  with  the  season  and  the  locality.  The  former  ratio  may  be  con 
sidered  to  denote  the  average  comparison,  at  the  commencement  of  the 
bad  season,  on  gravelly  soils — the  latter,  where  the  road  passes  through 
heavy  sand.  Farmers  take  a  cord  and  a  half  of  green  wood,  in  place  of 
half  and  three-quarters  of  a  cord;  80  bushels  of  rye,  and  100  bushels  of 


APPENDIX.  309 


oats,  when,  formerly,  they  carried  40  and  50  bushels  ;  200  plank  in  the 
place  of  80  to  90.  This  is  done  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour  ;  whereas, 
three  miles  an  hour,  when  the  road  was  in  tolerable  order,  was  considered 
rapid  traveling  with  a  team. 

A  manufacturer  of  Utica  formerly  transported  from  the  railroad  to  his 
establishment — a  distance  of  seven  miles — ten  bales  of  cotton  per  day, 
with  two  teams,  which  made,  each,  but  one  daily  trip;  but  on  the  recently 
constructed  plank  road,  one  team  performs  the  journey  twice,  delivering 
hfteen  bales  daily.  The  average  weight  of  a  bale  of  cotton  is  5  cwt.; 
therefore,  one  team  is  now  equal  to  the  work  of  75  cwt.,  while  on  the  old 
road  it  was  equal  only  to  25  cwt.  These  loads  must  be  considered  fair 
average  burdens,  without  the  energies  of  the  horse  being  unfairly  taxed. 
On  a  level,  Macadam  English  road,  writers  agree  that  the  extreme  weight 
of  draught  for  a  single  horse,  in  perfect  condition,  is  SlOOlbs. — and  that 
'to  place  on  more  becomes  a  cruelty,'  which  would  give  the  maximum 
power  of  traction  to  a  team  of  6200  Ibs.  That  such  is  inferior  to  the 
amount  which  has  been  carried  on  a  plank  road,  without  distressing  the 
horses,  the  incident  of  six  tons  taken  on  the  Salina  road  is  a  proof. 

While,  therefore,  we  take  3  to  3^  tons  as  a  medium  load  on  a  plank 
road,  we  may  assume  2  tons  to  be  fair  draught  on  the  Macadam  road — 
the  same  time  to  be  made  by  each. 

"  These  calculations  would  give  a  ratio  of  3  to  2  in  favor  of  the  plank  road. 
Mr.  Gillespie,  in  his  work  on  roads,  rates  the  difference  at  twice  as  much. 


"COMPARATIVE  COST   OF  THE  TWO  ROADS. 

"  The  next  inquiry  is  the  comparative  cost  of  plank  and  Macadam  roads. 
This,  of  course,  will  vary  with  localities.  Known  results  in  one  region 
will  assist  in  forming  estimates  for  another. 

"  It  is  stated  in  the  Report  of  the  Commissioners  of  Board  of  Works  of 
Canada,  for  the  year  ending  1848,  that  the  average  cost  of  the  fifty-six 
miles  of  Macadamized  road  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Montreal  Turnpike 
Trustees,  was  3462  dollars  per  mile.  Two  miles  were  laid  by  way  of  ex 
periment,  costing  3233  dollars  per  mile — the  lowest  price  at  which  any 
Macadam  road  was  made — the  greatest  cost  being  4888  dollars.  But  on 
this  road,  extending  seven  miles  from  Montreal  to  Lachine,  there  was 
heavy  cutting  on  two  hills.  The  repairs -for  the  last  eight  years  have 
been,  annually.  200  dollars  a  mile — about  ^  of  the  original  cost.  At 
Quebec,  the  average  coyt  of  thirty-one  miles,  was  3600  dollars  per  mile ; 
the  repairs  amounting  per  mile,  annually,  to  165  dollars — £--  of  the 


310  APPENDIX. 


whole  cost.  On  the  Port  Hope  road,  the  repairs  per  mile  were  300  dol 
lars ;  on  the  road  from  Toronto  to  Springfield,  511  dollars;  but  this  road 
is  described  as  worn  out  in  many  places.  Therefore,  the  cost  of  a  Macad 
amized  road  may  be  safely  assumed  at  3400  dollars  per  mile,  with  the 
necessity  of  an  annual  expenditure  of  about  130  dollars  per  mile. 

"  The  cost  of  a  plank  road  depends  on  contingencies,  but  may  be  stated, 
with  tolerable  accuracy,  to  range  from  1200  dollars  to  2000  dollars  per 
mile,  where  there  is  no  extraordinary  item  of  expenditure,  and  according 
as  the  road  may  be  built  of  hard  wood — maple  or  hemlock. 

"  For  the  sake  of  establishing  a  comparison,  a  medium  cost,  1750  dol 
lars  per  mile,  is  assumed. 

"  The  repairs  which  a  plank  road  will  need  for  the  first  two  years  ought 
to  be  trifling.  To  a  great  extent,  at  this  early  period,  they  depend  upon 
the  mode  in  which  the  road  has  been  constructed.  If  it  has  been  well 
kept  up  and  well  drained,  and  the  sleepers  have  been  carefully  laid,  there 
is  little  fear  of  the  road  settling,  nor  will  any  of  the  plank  become  loose. 
Even  on  roads  built  before  experience  had  pointed  out  a  good  mode  of  con 
struction,  the  repairs  were  not  a  heavy  charge.  The  Chambly  and  Lon- 
gueil  road,  Canada-East,  was  laid  down  in  1841,  with  white  pine,  which 
generally  lasted  about  four  years.  It  has  since  been  renewed,  and  the 
road  has  been  more  carefully  constructed  ;  and  there  is  a  reasonable  expect 
ation  that  it  will  last  seven  years.  The  ordinary  annual  repairs  have 
been  7^  dollars  a  mile.  It  is  not  possible  to  give  the  exact  traffic,  as  the 
tolls  for  sixteen  miles  are  farmed  out  for  5220  dollars  per  annum.  It  can 
not  be  considered,  by  any  means,  that  this  road  is  too  favorable  a  criterion, 
for  it  was  among  the  first  built  on  the  continent. 


"WHAT  PLANK  ROADS  DO  FOR  THE    FARMER. 

"  The  farmer  has  what  he  never  had  before,  a  good  road  every  day  in 
the  year,  the  same  in  all  seasons.  Formerly,  the  spring  and  fall  were 
periods  when  the  avenues  to  the  neighboring  city  were  closed  to  him.  On 
the  plank  road,  he  can  select  for  his  journey  days  when  he  can  not  work 
on  the  farm,  taking  with  greater  ease,  in  half  the  time,  three  times  what 
he  formerly  could  carry :  and  while  residing  close  to  the  road,  he  sees  his 
neighbor,  living  five  miles  off,  bringing  two  wagons  to  the  planks,  and 
then  transferring  the  contents  into  the  larger,  and  moving  off  with  it — he 
can  load  his  single  vehicle  with  the  full  amount  it  can  carry,  and  proceed 
onward  without  delay.  His  woodlands  acquire,  intrinsically,  a  value  which 
they  had  not  before,  for  he  can  cart  sufficiently  in  one  load  to  pay  him  for 


APPENDIX.  311 


the  expense  of  carting  and  cutting,  allowing  a  fair  value  for  his  timber. 
His  farm  increases  in  value  from  10  to  50  per  cent,  and  commands  a  sale 
from  the  fact  that  the  produce  never  lacks  a  market,  and  has  a  more  reg 
ular  and  higher  net  value.  By  the  current  price,  he  knows  what  he  can 
count  upon.  His  grain  is  worth  what  all  grain  fetches  in  the  next  market, 
deducting  the  cost  of  cartage  to  take  it  there,  which  he  can  calculate  to  a 
cent,  and  deliver  when  he  needs  money.  The  adjoining  tannery  (and  the 
probability  is  that  there  is  one  within  twenty  miles)  will  buy  his  bark. 
His  cord  wood  can  be  carried  the  same  distance.  He  sells,  for  remunerating 
prices,  his  perishable  produce,  such  as  vegetables  and  fruit,  pumpkins,  corn 
stalks,  and  fall  apples,  which  brought  him  previously  a  very  small  sum,  as 
the  only  market  was  in  the  small  villages  where  there  was  little  demand 
for  them. 

"The  wear  and  tear  to  his  horse,  harness,  and  vehicle  is  reduced  at  least 
one-half.  The  tolls  not  only  pay  themselves  in  this  saving,  but  even 
leave  a  surplus  in  the  pocket  of  the  farmer,  which  would  otherwise  have 
been  spent  on  repairs.  Horse-shoes  last  twice  the  time.  Instead  of  frequent 
new  shoes,  it  is  only  necessary  to  have  the  old  ones  periodically  renewed. 
The  very  labor  of  cleaning  the  horse  comes  into  calculation  ;  one  farmer 
assuring  the  writer  that  in  very  bad  weather,  setting  aside  all  question  of 
increase  of  load  and  saving  of  time,  he  would  sooner  pay  the  tolls  than 
have  to  rub  down  his  horses  in  the  state  they  used  to  be  after  travel  on 
the  old  road. 

"  The  price  of  cartage  having  generally  been  reduced  where  plank  roads 
have  been  laid  down,  it  becomes  an  inquiry,  whether  it  is  at  the  cost  of 
the  teamster.  Some  instances  are  given  in  a  former  part  of  this  brochure, 
and  we  will  adduce  two  others,  to  show  that  the  increase  of  load  carried, 
and  the  time  made,  more  than  counterbalance  any  reduction  of  price. 

"  On  the  Taberg  and  Rome  road,  there  is  a  furnace,  nine  miles  from  Rome, 
from  which  furnace  to  the  canal  at  Rome  1*25  dollars  per  ton  was  for 
merly  paid  for  carting.  The  load  each  way  was  precisely  one  ton,  equal  to 
two  tons  per  day  at  1'25  dollars,  giving  2'50  dollars  for  the  day's  work. 
Now,  the  price  allowed  is  0'75  dollars;  but  the  teamster  takes  two  and 
a  half  tons  each  way,  equal  to  five  tons  per  day,  at 


Deducting  toll  for  eighteen  miles,  say 

3-50 

Being  an  increase  of  one  dollar  in  the  daily  wages  of  the  teamster. 


312  APPENDIX. 


."The  Rome  and  Turin  road  passes  through  a  dairy  country,  and  cheese 
and  butter  are  brought  by  it  to  the  canal,  where  they  are  shipped.  For 
merly  fanners  brought  1500  Ibs.  to  the  canal,  and  took  two  days  to  go  and 
return  :  now  they  cart  from  forty  to  fifty  cwt.  and  return  the  same  day. 
The  smallest  load  carried  is  thirty-six  tubs  of  butter.  A  farm,  ten  miles 
off  from  a  city,  is  almost  as  near  as  one  only  a  mile  from  it ;  the  surplus 
distance  being  in  calculation  convertible  into  time.  But  at  a  more  extend 
ed  distance,  say  one  hundred  miles,  it  is  worth  while  examining  how  the 
plank  road  can  compete  with  the  railroad.  Canals  being  main  links  of 
water  communication,  do  not  suggest  themselves  as  a  matter  of  inquiry. 
But  many  vegetable  products  now  find  their  way  to  market  by  the  rail 
road  ;  and  if  it  can  be  established  that  a  farmer,  using  his  own  motive 
power  on  the  plank  road,  can  travel  at  half  the  cost,  a  very  essential  ben 
efit  is  established. 

"  Thus  it  is  evident  that  the  farmer  does  his  own  business,  to  his  own 
satisfaction,  with  a  wagon  to  make  a  return  trip,  bringing  back  all  his 
family  may  require  from  the  city  ;  such  as  a  quintal  of  cod-fish,  a  chest  of 
tea,  a  barrel  of  pork,  flour,  and  assorted  articles,  cheaper  than  he  could  buy 
them  at  a  country  store  ;  together  with  the  experience  of  his  trip,  and  the 
information  picked  up  at  the  inns  where  he  has  stopped  ;  and  all  for  exactly 
half  the  cost  if  he  had  sent  by  railroad  and  had  his  business  done  by  an 
agent  It  is  pre-supposed  that  the  farmer  can  be  absent  from  his  farm, 
without  injury  to  himself. 

"  On  Sunday  the  farmer  can  go  to  church  with  regularity,  which  was  not 
always  possible  in  the  fall,  when  the  church  was  one-fourth  of  a  mile  from 
the  farm.  He  can  live  with  more  friendliness  with  his  neighbors — for  the 
plank  roads  have  led  to  an  increased  intercourse  between  families.  Socially, 
the  farmer  becomes  a  better  and  a  wiser  man.  He  can  meet  people  of  his 
own  pursuits  more  frequently,  and  converse  upon  prices  current  and  im 
proved  modes  of  farming.  He  learns  what  is  new,  and  what  benefits  any 
particular  experiment  has  led  to.  In  case  of  sickness,  relief  can  be  ob 
tained  readily,  and  with  dispatch  ;  and  if  medical  skill  can  save  the  head 
of  a  family  or  a  young  wife,  the  physician  can  be  soon  brought  to  the 
bedside. 

"  Indeed,  all  the  advantages  which  result  from  a  road  of  superior  excel 
lence  accrue  to  the  farmer.  There  is  nothing  which  so  much  retards  im 
provement  as  imperfect  communications.  '  Of  all  inventions,'  says  one  of 
the  greatest  writers*  of  the  day,  e  the  alphabet  and  printing-press  alone 
excepted,  those  inventions  which  abridge  distance  have  done  most  for  civ- 

*  Macaulay.    History  of  England,  Chap.  III. 


APPENDIX.  313 


ilization.  Every  improvement  of  the  means  of  locomotion  benefits  man 
kind,  morally  and  intellectually,  as  well  as  materially ;  and  not  only  facil 
itates  the  interchange  of  the  various  productions  of  nature  "and  art,  but 
tends  to  remove  national  and  provincial  antipathies,  and  to  bind  together 
all  th(  branches  of  the  great  human  family.' 

"  If  ever  such  a  remark  could  be  directly  applied,  it  is  to  the  sections 
traversed  by  plank  roads.  The  family,  instead  of  periodical  visits  to  the 
neighboring  city,  are  continually  passing  to  and  fro.  The  change,  the  bus 
tle,  the  animation,  all  have  their  influence.  The  farmer  sees  other  farms, 
finds  them  perhaps  better  fenced  than  his  own,  better  cultivated,  and  bet 
ter  'cleaned  off.'  A  spirit  of  emulation  is  excited  in  him,  and  his  out 
buildings  and  fences  gradually  acquire  a  greater  air  of  neatness.  The  com 
forts  of  the  city  make  the  want  of  them  to  be  painfully  felt  in  his  own 
homestead,  and  his  wife  and  daughters  are  awakened  to  exertion  by  the 
contrast.  His  dress  is  marked  by  a  greater  air  of  neatness.  The  same 
can  be  said  of  the  female  members  of  the  family.  Indeed,  in  all  the  rami 
fications  of  life,  the  contrast  with  civilization,  brought  about  by  improved 
communication,  causes  itself  to  be  felt.  In  a  word,  the  farmer  learns  that 
there  is  such  a  thing  as  progress. 

"  A  gentleman,  who  was  among  the  first  to  introduce  these  roads  into 
the  country,  remarked  to  the  writer,  concerning  a  road  which  it  is  obvi 
ously  not  necessary  to  name  :  '  The  farms  are  no  longer  the  same — the  pro 
prietors  have  cleaned  them ;  pulling  out  the  stumps,  erecting  better  fences, 
and  generally  improving  their  property ;  some  even,  at  their  own  expense, 
have  run  plank  roads  to  their  lots,  to  assist  the  draught  of  the  horses.  The 
people  too  are  changed,  dress  better,  look  better — their  manners  are  better. 
Their  wives  and  daughters  are  no  longer  the  same  persons.  They  have 
improved  wonderfully.' 

"  Such  are  the  results  that  have  in  every  instance  attended  the  introduc 
tion  of  plank  roads. 


"WHAT  PLANK  ROADS  DO  FOR,  THE  STOCKHOLDER. 

"  The  tolls  authorized  to  be  collected  in  the  State  of  New  York,  by  the 
Plank  Road  Law,  are  not  to  exceed  one  cent  and  a  half  per  mile  for  a 
vehicle  drawn  by  two  animals  ;  and  one  half  cent  per  mile  for  every  addi 
tional  animal ;  for  every  vehicle  drawn  by  one  animal,  three-quarters  of  a 
cent  per  mile,  and  for  each  horse  and  rider,  or  led  horse,  half  a  cent  per 
mile.  In  the  original  enactment,  the  profits  of  the  road  were  limited  to  a 
dividend  of  ten  per  cent.,  and  the  appropriation  often  per  cent,  as  a  sinking 

O 


314  APPENDIX. 


fund.  But  this  clause  was  repealed  in  1849  j  so  the  above  tolls  can  be 
levied  irrespective  of  profits. 

"  There  are,  however,  some  non-paying  exceptions,  such  as  jurors, 
witnesses,  troops,  and  travelers  attending  religious  meetings. 

"With  the  above  rates,  the  profits  of  existing  companies  have  been 
made,  and  the  best  criterion  of  the  character  of  the  stock  is  to  examine 
what  these  profits  have  been. 

"  Some  few  companies  depart  from  the  rates  prescribed,  and  charge 
less ;  taking  six  and  a  quarter  cents  for  the  five  miles.  Some  companies 
agree  with  the  farmers  to  charge  the  distance  per  mile  they  live  from  the 
gate.  These  cases  are  exceptions  to  the  general  rule. 

"  Among  the  many  roads  constructed  in  the  State,  some  few  have  been 
built  more  as  the  means  of  opening  up  the  communication  than  as  an  in 
vestment.  In  these,  farmers  have  freely  subscribed.  But,  throughout 
the  State,  it  can  be  asserted  positively  that  the  stock  of  no  plank  road  is 
below  par.  Nor  can  any  stock  be  bought,  except  from  individuals  who  are 
pressed  for  money,  and,  in  common  with  plank-road  stock,  have  to  sell 
other  property  to  obtain  it. 

"  Where  the  travel  is  limited,  the  plank  will  of  itself  decay,  and  need 
restoration,  without  a  sufficiency  of  receipts  to  pay  for  restoring  it.  But 
from  such  a  postulate,  no  deduction  can  flow.  A  road,  to  be  remunera 
tive,  must  first  be  required.  A  good  road  increases  travel;  but  there 
must  be  other  causes  to  create  it. 


"ON  THE  FACILITIES  OF  TRAVEL  GIVEN  BY  PLANK  ROADS. 

"  There  is  some  difficulty  in  instituting  a  comparison  between  a  plank 
road  and  a  railroad.  Both  have  their  distinct  uses.  The  railroad  is  im 
portant  to  the  manufacturer,  the  miner,  the  metal  founder,  who  have  to 
send  their  fabrics  and  their  coal  and  iron  a  distance  from  their  localities, 
the  means  of  doing  which  they  have  to  hire ;  and  the  numerous  class  of 
travelers  who  desiring  to  be  carried  with  dispatch,  must  seek  a  public  con 
veyance.  The  plank  road  is  for  an  agricultural  population,  and  for  the 
accommodation  of  those  who,  having  cattle,  need  not  incur  the  expense  of 
motive  power.  To  lay  greater  stress  on  the  utility  of  the  one,  the  circum 
stances  of  the  comparison  must  be  given. 

"  To  examine  the  difference  of  cost,  we  can  refer  to  the  Annual  Report 
of  Railroad  Statistics  for  the  State  of  New  York,  made  to  the  Legislature, 
20th  February,  1850.  We  learn  in  this  document,  that  the  whole  amount 
which  has  been  expended  on  the  1201  miles  of  railroad  in  the  State,  to 


APPENDIX.  315 


set  them  in  operation,  is  46,604,921  dollars,  giving  an  average  per  mile 
of  38,805  dollars  for  construction  and  about  eight  years'  repairs.  The 
cost  of  construction  and  of  eight  years'  repairs  on  the  plank  road  may  be 
assumed  at  3106  dollars. 

"  The  average  pace  of  railway  passenger  trains  is  twenty-three  miles 
an  hour,  and  of  freight  trains  fourteen  miles  an  hour.  The  fare  is  about 
two  cents  per  mile  for  long  distances,  and  from  three  to  six  for  short  dis 
tances. 

"  On  the  plank  road  a  stage-horse  can  travel  from  eighteen  to  twenty 
miles  a  day,  at  the  rate  of  seven  to  nine  miles  an  hour. 

"  It  is,  therefore,  evident,  that  traveling  at  the  rate  of  seven  to  nine 
miles  per  hour,  is  performed  on  the  plank  road  at  three  cents  per  mile. 

"We  have  then  these  results  : 

"  The  cost  of  the  railroad  is  at  least  twelve  times  as  great  as  that  of 
the  plank  road. 

"  That  travel  for  short  distances  can  be  done  for  less  on  the  plank  road 
than  on  the  railroad. 

"  In  average  distances,  the  fare  on  the  plank  road  is  three  cents  per 
mile,  while  on  the  railroad  the  fare  is  from*  two  to  two  and  a  half  cents 
per  mile  :- — nevertheless,  in  one  instance  the  stage  fare  has  been  less  than 
on  the  railroad. 

"  Time  is  the  only  strong  point  of  view  favorable  to  the  railroad,  and  it 
is  found  that  the  distance  can  be  performed  in  one-third  the  time  on  the 
railroad  of  what  it  can  be  made  on  the  plank  road. 

"  Whether  to  gain  this  advantage  such  an  additional  expense  ought  to 
be  incurred,  can  not  be  considered  by  the  writer,  abstractedly ;  but  one 
fact  is  certain,  that  in  an  agricultural  country  it  is  manifestly  to  the  great 
est  benefit  of  the  farmer  to  have  a  well-laid  causeway  on  which  he  can 
use  his  own  motive  power  in  bringing  his  produce  to  market. 

"  Plank  roads  are  the  feeders  of  railroads  and  canals,  and  are  not  inferior 
to  either  in  their  particular  uses.  In  some  instances,  indeed  generally  in 
manufacturing  districts,  speed  is  indispensable.  But  economy  of  transport 
in  an  agricultural  section  of  country,  is  the  main  point.  In  a  former  part 
of  this  work  it  was  shown  that  the  farmer  can  successfully  compete  with 
a  railroad  within  one  hundred  miles  of  the  market ;  therefore,  it  would 
seem  that  the  plank  road  is  of  more  utility  to  him.  And  it  has  this  in- 


"*  It  must  be  recollected  that  the  grades  on  these  roads  vary  from  250  to  350  feet  in  a 
mile,  and  therefore  can  not  be  taken  as  a  minimum  price  at  which  travel  can  be  perform 
ed.  It  is  possible,  if  the  grades  of  the  roads  were  reduced  to  a  maximum  of  150  in  the 
mile,  that  the  expense  of  transporting  passengers  and  merchandise  would  be  from  one- 
half  to  two-thirds  the  present  price." 


316  APPENDIX. 


fluence  upon  his  property,  that  it  raises  it  considerably  in  value — a  remark 
which  does  not  apply  to  the  same  extent  to  railroads. 

"  There  are  a  class  of  travelers  who  turn  aside  from  the  railroad.  The 
Erie  Canal  statistics  prove  this  sufficiently.  Men  of  quiet  temperament 
who  dislike  the  bustle  and  excitement,  and  not  being  in  great  haste  to 
arrive  at  their  destination,  take  other  conveyances. 

"  That  this  class  will  increase  when  plank  roads  have  been  longer 
established,  there  is  reason  to  believe. 


"  CONSTRUCTION. 

"  Where  there  is  only  a  single  track  required,  it  is  not  the  custom  to 
lay  the  plank  in  the  centre  of  the  causeway ;  generally,  the  left-hand  side 
of  the  road  leading  from  the  city  is  selected,  by  which  arrangement  loaded 
vehicles  coming  into  the  city  have  the  right  of  way.  Running  parallel  to 
the  planks  the  road  is  carefully  made,  and  the  name  by  which  it  is  now 
known  indicates  its  use.  It  is  called  the  '  turn  off.'  Necessarily,  it  ought 
to  be  kept  in  sufficient  repair — since  vehicles  going  in  either  direction  take 
the  plank,  and  those  not  having  the  right  of  way,  abandon  it  when  meet 
ing  a  vehicle  which  has. 

"  For  ordinary  travel,  a  single  plank  track  is  sufficient — an  assertion 
fully  proved  by  very  few  roads  having  a  double  track.  But  if  the  press  of 
business  renders  a  double  track  necessary,  it  ought  to  be  laid  down  in  two 
tracks  of  eight  feet,  not  in  a  single  track  of  sixteen  feet.  The  best  mode 
is  first  to  lay  down  a  single  track,  and  if  found  insufficient  in  any  particu 
lar  locality,  such  as  the  immediate  approach  to  a  city,  another  one  can  of 
course,  be  added. 

"  The  cost  of  the  several  roads  varies.  This  is  attributable  to  the  dif 
ference  of  the  amount  paid  for  surveying,  right  of  way,  grading  and  laying 
plank — the  prices  of  lumber,  and  the  expense  of  bridging,  &c.  The  lumber 
which  has  been  principally  used  is  hemlock  and  white  pine,  until  within 
the  last  few  months,  when  hard  wood  has  somewhat  come  into  use,  with 
a  fair  expectation  of  proving  more  suitable.  On  the  Salina  and  Syracuse 
road,  beech  and  maple  have  been  laid,  and  on  the  Rochester  road  some 
elm — the  latter  not  exceeding  twelve  inches  in  width. 

"  The  principal  experiments  have  been  made  with  hemlock,  and  it  has 
been  proved  that  it  is  not  the  best  fitted  for  the  purpose.  It  is  loose 
grained  and  knotty — consequently,  the  plank  soon  wears  away,  stringing 
off  from  friction,  leaving  hard  knots  standing  erect.  Independently  of  the 
rugged  surface  which  these  knots  present,  they  may  be  classed  among  the 


APPENDIX.  317 


principal  causes  which  lead  to  the  destruction  of  the  road,  for  as  the  shoe 
of  the  horse  strikes  the  knot  it  slips  from  it,  and  a  cavity  is  made.  White 
pine,  which  has  been  used,  has  the  advantage  of  being  free  from  knots. 

"But  it  is  argued  that  this  wood  is  liable  to  decay.  All  lumber  used 
on  a  road  will  undoubtedly  decay  of  itself — even  should  it  remain  without 
any  traffic  passing  over  it.  Two  influences  work  upon  the  plank :  the 
damp  from  below  causing  mildew,  while  the  upper  part  is  alternately 
drenched  with  water,  and  exposed  to  the  burning  heat  of  the  sun.  An 
examination  of  a  plank  long  in  use,  is  sufficient  evidence  of  this  fact. 
Against  some  of  the  influences  it  is  not  possible  to  guard,  and  they  come 
under  the  head  of  wear  and  tear.  But  good  construction  will  do  much  to 
obviate  others. 

"In  the  advertisements  for  the  plank  road  timber,  great  care  has  been 
taken  to  specify  that  the  plank  has  to  be  sawed  out  of  sound  timber,  free 
from  wane  sap,  rottenness,  knot  holes,  and  excessive  knottiness.  Still 
these  precautions  are  valueless  where  the  timber  is  naturally  imperfect,  and 
in  spite  of  the  fears  that  pine  becomes  'dozy,'  yellow  pine  is  a  durable 
wood,  free  from  knots,  and  is,  therefore,  preferable  to  hemlock,  as  it  will 
keep  longer  sound. 

"  The  most  important  point  in  the  construction  of  plank  roads  is  drain 
age.  Without  drainage,  however  well  a  road  may  be  otherwise  laid,  it 
can  not  remain  in  good  order.  And  a  sufficient  ditch  should  be  cut,  at 
least  two  feet  below  the  crown  of  road.  The  road  should  be  well  crowned 
up,  so  that  the  water  would  readily  flow  from  it,  with  a  firm  bed  made 
for  the  stringers.  Where  the  soil  has  been  made,  a  heavy  roller  (which 
can  be  formed  with  a  portion  of  the  trunk  of  a  large  green  oak)  should  be 
passed  over  the  roadway,  till  it  is  perfectly  firm,  and  the  sleeper  should  be 
imbedded  in  the  soil,  till  the  top  is  on  a  level  with  the  earth.  The 
planks  then,  laid  transversely,  require  to  be  well  mauled,  until  firmly 
settled  ;  care  being  taken  to  drive  each  home  to  the  one  laid  behind  it. 

"  The  mode  of  laying  down  stringers  varies  with  the  soil ;  and  on  this 
point  there  is  some  difference  of  opinion.  It  is  generally  conceded,  how 
ever,  that  sand  does  not  require  so  heavy  a  stringer  as  clay.  On  the 
Salina  and  Syracuse  road,  in  order  to  insure  thorough  and  effective  drain 
age,  a  transverse  fall  of  two  inches  has  been  given  to  the  planks.  With 
such  a  declivity,  the  load  is  unequally  divided,  and  the  weight  falls  heavier 
on  the  lower,  in  the  proportion  of  3100  Ibs.  to  2900  Ibs.  in  a  load  of  three 
tons.  Independently  of  this  pressure  against  the  lower  linch-pin  and  hub 
of  the  wheel,  it  is  urged,  that  it  is  advisable  to  make  the  lower  scantling 
(or  stringer)  double  that  of  the  upper,  in  order  to  guard  against  the  in 
creased  pressure  on  the  lower  side  of  the  road." 


318  APPENDIX. 


WISCONSIN. 

BY    DANIEL    S.   CURTISS,   ESQ.,   OF   THE    UNITED    STATES. 

AN  early  copy  having  been  sent  to  me  of  Mr.  Curtiss's  "  Western  Por 
traiture,"  published  in  America  within  the  last  month,  I  hasten  to  present 
my  reader  with  some  passages  relative  to  Wisconsin,  as  confirmatory  of  the 
opinions  I  had  previously  formed  on  the  subject,  and  which  I  have  embodied 
in  the  present  volume. 

"  From  the  best  authorities,  it  appears  that  the  earliest  visits  of  white 
men  to  the  territory  that  now  forms  the  State  of  Wisconsin,  was  in  1654, 
made  by  some  French  traders,  from  Montreal  to  Lake  Superior.  The  first 
white  settlement  was  made  in  1665,  by  Claude  Allouez  and  others,  at 
Lapointe,  on  an  island  of  the  same  name,  in  the  western  end  of  that  lake  ; 
and  a  few  years  before  the  establishment  of  the  settlement  at  Puans 
(Green)  Bay.  According  to  the  authorities  quoted  by  Bancroft,  School- 
craft,  and  others,  those  settlements  were  made  in  1665  and  1669  ;  and  in 
1673,  Father  J.  Marquette,  accompanied  by  Joliet,  went  up  the  Nenah 
(Fox)  River,  passed  the  short  portage  of  a  mile  or  two  into  the  Wisconsin 
River,  then  descended  it  to  the  Mississippi,  which  they  reached  in  June  of 
that  year.  The  Legislature  have  named  one  of  the  counties,  near  that 
portage,  Marquette,  after  that  adventurer,  one  of  the  first,  who  ever  saw 
that  mighty  stream. 

"  In  1679,  La  Salle  made  a  voyage  up  the  lakes,  in  the  first  vessel  ever 
built  above  Niagara  Falls  ;  he  called  it  the  '  Griffon  !'  and  he  has  claimed 
to  be  the  first  white  man  who  ever  saw  the  Mississippi ;  but  this  is  dis 
puted,  as  Bancroft  declares  that  H.  de  Soto  was  the  first  European  that 
discovered  the  'Father  of  Waters,'  and  crossed  it  in  1541.  The  'Griffon' 
is  said  to  have  been  a  plain,  substantial  little  schooner,  of  some  sixty  tons 
burden,  and  carrying  five  small  guns.  On  the  7th  of  August,  1679,  she 
sailed  from  Niagara  with  thirty-four  men,  bound  for  the  western  lakes,  and 
reached  Mackinaw  the  last  of  the  month  ;  on  the  2d  of  September  she 
sailed  again  for  Green  Bay.  At  that  port  she  was  laden  with  peltries; 
and  on  the  18th  of  the  same  month,  La  Salle  put  her  in  charge  of  the 
pilot  and  five  men,  and  sent  her  back  again ;  but  they  never  reached  their 
destination,  vessel  and  crew  having  perished,  which  was  a  severe  loss  to 
La  Salle,  as  the  vessel  and  cargo  had  cost  him  about  60,000  livres.  Still, 
he  and  his  comrades  continued  their  voyage  up  the  coast  of  Lake  Michigan 


APPENDIX.  319. 


in  canoes  to  the  mouth,  of  Chicago  River,  where  they  erected  a  fort ;  and 
shortly  afterward  Father  Hennepin,  with  others,  passed  from  that  river  into 
the  0;  Plain,  then  the  Illinois,  and  down  that  river  to  the  Mississippi. 

"  Wisconsin  constituted  a  portion  of  New  France,  under  French  authority 
till  1763,  when  it  was  surrendered  to  Great  Britain.  In  1783,  a  settle 
ment  was  began  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  by  Giard,  Autaya,  and  Dubuque, 
near  the  site  of  the  earlier  French  settlement.  In  1819  Governor  Cass 
explored  the  northern  country ;  during  which  year  the  garrisons  of  Prairie 
du  Chien  and  St.  Peter's  were  established.  In  1823  Major  Long  explored 
the  same  region;  and  in  1832  an  expedition  under  Schoolcraft  passed 
through  the  country.  In  1836  it  was  organized  under  a  territorial  gov 
ernment,  with  the  title  of  Wisconsin  Territory. 

"  This  was  a  Territory,  under  one  authority  or  another,  from  1787  to 
1847,  when  it  became  an  independent  State  of  the  Union,  making  the 
twenty-ninth  star  in  that  galaxy  of  political  existences,  whose  light  is  seen 
throughout  Christendom,  and  whose  influence  is  felt  wherever  the  breezes 
have  carried  paper  and  powder.  In  fertility  of  soil,  comfort  of  climate,  and 
all  other  natural  facilities  of  successful  agricultural  operations,  Wisconsin 
is  scarcely  behind  any  of  her  sister  States  ;  and  perhaps  is  surpassed  by 
none  in  the  rapidity  with  which  her  population  has  increased  during  the 
last  eight  or  ten  years,  and  their  intelligence.  In  1840  the  population 
was  something  over  20,000;  in  1845  it  was  about  five  times  that,  say, 
115,000  ;  and  in  1850  the  census  shows  it  to  be  305,528. 

"  I  take  the  following  boundary  of  this  State  from  '  Darby's  Gazetteer', 
of  1845: 

"  '  Wisconsin  Territory  of  the  U.S.,  if  taken  in  extenso,  is  bounded  on  the 
N.  by  the  British  territories  ;  by  Mississippi  River,  W.;  Illinois,  S.;  and  by 
Lake  Michigan,  the  northwestern  part  of  the  State  of  Michigan,  and  Lake 
Superior,  E.  In  latitude  it  extends  from  42°  30'  to  49°  N.,  and  in  longi 
tude  from  10°  to  18°  30' W.  of  Washington.  Measured  by  the  rhombs, 
the  area  comes  out  so  near  that  we  may  assume  80,000  square  miles. 
This  region  comprises  the  northwestern  part  of  the  original  U.S.  domain 
by  the  treaty  of  1783.  From  S.E.  to  N.W.  by  a  diagonal  line,  the  length 
falls  but  little  short  of  600  miles.  The  breadth  is  about  160  miles. 

"  '  That  portion  of  Wisconsin,  organized  and  subdivided  into  counties  is 
bounded  E.  by  Lake  Michigan;  N.W.  by  Green  Bay,  Fox,  and  Wisconsin 
rivers  ;  W.,  or  rather  S.W.,  by  Mississippi  River ;  and  S.  by  the  State  of 
Illinois.  In  latitude  it  extends  from  42°  30'  to  45°  20',  and  in  longitude 
from  10°  to  14°  5' W.  of  Washington.  From  the  S.W.  angle,  on  Missis 
sippi  River,  to  theN.E.  point  between  Green  Bay  and  Lake  Michigan,  the 
length  is  280  miles.  The  breadth  varies  from  near  100  to  a  mere  point, 


320  APPENDIX, 


area  about  11.500  square  miles.  The  face  of  the  country  is  rather  waving 
than  either  hilly  or  flat,  though  both  extremes  exist.  It  is  a  territory  in  a 
remarkable  manner  supplied  with  navigable  streams.  Fox  River,  flowing 
into  Green  Bay,  and  Wisconsin,  into  Mississippi  River,  approach  each  other 
so  near  as  to  leave  but  a  short  portage  between  their  channels.  The  high 
er  branches  of  Rock  River  rise  in  Wisconsin,  and  flow  into  the  State  of 
Illinois. 

"  It  has  a  coast  of  about  200  miles  on  Lake  Michigan,  over  which  flow 
some  small  streams,  but  the  shallowness  of  the  water  of  the  lake  precludes 
any  harbor  admitting  vessels  of  more  than  very  moderate  draught.  The 
rivers  afford  much  more  extensive  navigable  facilities  than  does  the  lake. 

"  '  The  town  of  Madison,  on  what  is  called  the  Four  Lakes,  is  the  capi 
tal  of  the  Territory.  This  town  is  situated  atN.  latitude  43°  5',  and  lon 
gitude  12°  12'  W.  of  Washington,  and  almost  directly  S.  of  the  portage 
between  Wisconsin  and  Fox  rivers  ;  distance  about  40  miles,  and  about  140 
miles  a  little  N.  of  N.W.  from  Chicago.' 

"  Something  of  the  climate  and  winters  of  Wisconsin  maybe  judged  by 
the  following  statement  of  the  clearing  and  opening  of  the  harbor,  at  Mil- 
waukie,  for  some  ten  years  past.  The  freezing  up  of  the  harbor,  during 
that  time,  varied  from  as  early  as  November  15th,  to  as  late  as  the  1st  of 
December. 

"  In  the  spring  it  has  opened,  some  years  as  early  the  first  week  in  March, 
and  at  others  not  till  as  late  as  about  the  middle  of  April. 

"  The  township  organization  system  prevails  throughout  most  of  Wis 
consin,  very  similar  to  that  in  the  State  of  New  York;  most  of  the  coun 
ties  have  adopted  the  system. 

"  No  argument  is  needed  to  show  moneyed  men  that  the  West  is  a  more 
advantageous  place  to  loan  their  funds  than  the  East — that  money  can  be 
let  at  higher  interest  and  oftener  turned,  and  always  in  active  demand  on 
safe  securities ;  for  this  is  all  very  well  known,  and  is  so  generally  remark 
ed,  that  it  has  grown  into  a  proverb.  It  is  because  there  is  much  land  and 
little  money  in  the  West — the  country  being  new,  filled  up  with  recent 
settlers,  who  are  nearly  all  engaged  in  making  improvements,  which,  as 
yet,  yield  but  small  revenue  ;  and  real  estate  rising  more  rapidly,  and  money 
scarcer,  proportionately,  than  at  the  East ;  the  latter  being  in  greater  de 
mand,  until  larger  crops  are  ready  for  market.  So  that  those  having  sur 
plus  funds,  whether  to  invest  in  improvements,  or  to  loan,  will  readily  see 
that  it  is  to  their  interest  to  locate  in  the  West,  for  the  highest  profitable 
operations. 

"  In  Central  and  Western  New  York  real  estate  increased  in  value  more 
rapidly — after  the  opening  of  the  Erie  Canal  and  some  of  the  railroads, 


APPENDIX.  321 


bringing  the  products  with  speed  and  cheapness  to  market— -in  proportion, 
than  it  did  at  the  East.  In  like  manner,  and  for  the  same  reasons,  will 
property  be  enhanced  in  value  in  the  States  west  of  the  lakes,  above  those 
on  the  Atlantic  ;  so  ample  now  are  the  means  of  communication  between 
the  seaboard  and  the  frontier  country. 

"  In  conversation,  a  short  time  since,  with  an  extensive  grain  and  flour 
dealer  of  a  Western  State,  my  attention  was  called  more  forcibly  to  the 
contrast  between  the  time  occupied  a  few  years  ago  and  that  required  at 
the  present  day  to  take  a  barrel  of  flour  from  Wisconsin  or  Illinois,  and  re 
turn  the  necessary  merchandise.  Then,  two  to  four  weeks  were  occupied, 
each  way  ;  now  it  only  takes  some  six  to  ten  days  ;  and  soon,  when  the 
whole  line  of  railroads  now  commenced  shall  be  completed,  only  two  or 
three  days  will  be  consumed  in  the  passage  between  New  York  and  Chi 
cago,  or  Milwaukie.  And  what  is  better,  decided  cheapness,  too,  is  attain 
ed  in  this  rapid  transit.  But  that  is  not  all,  nor  even  the  greatest  advan 
tage,  resulting  to  the  western  settler  by  this  speedy  transportation  ;  his 
chief  benefit  gained  by  it,  is  the  increased  price  secured  to  him  for  his  pro 
ducts — a  price  approximating  very  close  to  the  prices  of  New  York  and 
Philadelphia. 

"  All  who  know  any  thing  about  it,  understand  very  well  that  the  prices 
at  the  West  depend  altogether  upon  the  eastern  market ;  and  the  longer  the 
time  which  transpires  between  the  sale  and  the  date  at  which  the  articles 
reach  that  market,  the  wider  must  be  the  margin  and  fluctuations  in  the 
prices,  and  greater  must  be  the  hazards  and  contingencies,  all  of  which  the 
purchasers  are  bound  to  take  into  the  account  when  buying  the  western 
commodities  ;  as  prices  at  the  time  of  his  buying  are  liable  to  fall  at  the 
East,  before  those  products  reach  their  destination.  But  when  the  transit 
is  quicker — reduced  to  two  or  three  days — these  chances  of  decline  in  prices, 
and  all  the  risks,  are  much  diminished,  and  the  insurance  is  less,  so  that  the 
produce  speculator  can  very  safely  venture  to  pay  prices  much  nearer  the  full 
eastern  value. 

"Under  these  circumstances,  western  lands  must  be  greatly  enhanced 
in  actual  value  ;  increased  in  a  ratio  decidedly  greater  than  the  eastern 
lands,  when  taking  into  the  account  the  respective  prices  at  which  both  are 
now  held,  the  former  realizing  nearly  as  high  profits  as  the  latter,  while  the 
cost  of  producing  is  vastly  in  favor  of  the  western  farmer — which  proves 
the  wisdom  of  investing  in  and  improving  western  real  estate,  while  it  may 
be  obtained  for  low  prices  ;  as  the  astonishing  progress  making  in  transit 
facilities  is- constantly  hastening  the  time  of  an  equilibrium  in  land  value 
East  and  West.  And  when  we  consider  the  wonderful  productiveness  and 
easy  tillage  of  western  soils,  even  at  the  same  cost  per  acre,  the  profit  of 


322  APPENDIX. 


the  capital  invested  is  nearly  or  quite  as  great  in  the  one  location  as  the 
other. 

"  The  river  floods,  an  event  of  great  sublimity,  and  characteristic  of  the 
West,  occurring  annually,  are  forcibly  described  in  Mr.  Thomson's  Letters. 
Memorable  and  destructive  floods  occurred  on  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois 
rivers,  in  1832  and  1846  : 

V  '  Observing  some  warehouses  surrounded  with  water,  from  which  boats 
were  taking  in  their  freight,  we  concluded  that  the  owners  had  hit  upon 
this  expedient  for  the  convenience  of  those  engaged  in  transportation  ;  but 
we  were  presently  informed  that  in  ordinary  stages  of  the  water  these 
warehouses  stood  high  and  dry  upon  the  levee,  and  that  what  seemed  to 
be  the  bed  of  a  wide,  flowing  river,  was  usually  a  bottom — the  name  given 
to  a  low  tract  of  land,  meadow  or  timbered,  on  the  margin  of  a  river,  and 
intervening  between  its  channel  and  the  bluffs  or  high  grounds  denoting  its 
ancient  bed.  Some  of  these  warehouses  were  surrounded  with  water,  to 
the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  feet.  Indeed  I  was  assured  that  at  one  time  the 
water  rose  fourteen  feet  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  some  3000  sacks  of 
grain,  stored  in  a  new  warehouse,  built  quite  above  the  old  high-water 
mark,  were  destroyed  in  a  single  night. 

"  '  As  we  proceeded  down  the  river  we  saw  on  every  hand  the  desolations 
of  the  flood.  In  nearly  every  river-town  the  street  fronting  the  river  was 
overflowed,  and  stores  and  dwellings  were  submerged  to  the  depth  of  ten 
or  twenty  feet.  In  some  places  large  and  cultivated  farms  were  entirely 
under  water ;  the  stock,  crops,  fences,  every  thing  destroyed.  The  loss  falls 
most  severely  on  the  poor  woodmen,  who  occupy  log-cabins  on  the  river 
bottoms,  and  earn  their  living  by  supplying  the  boats  with  wood  ;  the 
whole  winter's  work  of  many  has  been  swept  away  in  an  hour,  while  they 
and  their  families  have  been  obliged  to  leave  their  huts  and  flee  for  refuge 
to  the  bluffs,  at  a  distance  often  of  several  miles.  At  some  points  the  river 
is  expanded  from  an  average  width  of  half  a  mile  to  the  breadth  of  eight  to 
ten  miles  from  bluff  to  bluff.  We  saw  several  cabins  and  houses,  of  which 
the  roofs  only  were  above  the  water.  But  I  have  since  seen  so  much 
greater  desolations  on  the  Mississippi,  that  these  seem  almost  of  no  ac 
count. 

"  '  A  western  steamboat  is  at  first  sight  a  novelty  to  one  familiar  only 
with  eastern  models.  The  boats  on  the  western  waters  are  very  slightly 
built,  mere  shells  of  pine,  shallow,  long,  narrow,  flat  bottomed,  open  and 
flaring  on  all  sides,  just  as  represented  in  Banvard's  panorama.  There  is 
no  cabin  either  below  the  deck  or  upon  it. 

"  '  Most  of  the  boats  have  good  cabins  and  well  furnished  saloons,  both 
for  ladies  and  gentlemen,  beside  state-rooms. 


APPENDIX.  323 


"  '  The  engines  are  placed  immediately  on  the  lower  deck,  two  huge  fur 
naces  flaming  upon  you  as  you  enter  the  boat,  and  giving  you  rather  un 
comfortable  hints  of  a  choice  between  fire  and  water  in  making  your  exit 
from  the  world. 

"'Huge  flaming  brands  and  coals  are  dropping  continually  upon  the 
thinnest  possible  sheathing  of  sheet-iron,  in  many  places  worn  through  to 
the  plank  ;  heated  pipes,  on  which  you  can  not  bear  your  hand,  are  in  im 
mediate  contact  with  boards  as  dry  as  tinder,  and  perhaps  already  charred ; 
goods,  you  know  not  how  inflammable,  are  strewn  promiscuously  round  the 
boilers,  while  huge  piles  of  dry  pine-wood,  waiting  to  be  consumed,  are 
crowded  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fires.  But  not  every  traveler  has  the  habit 
that  I  confess  to,  of  prying  into  every  thing  about  him,  and  therefore  few 
probably  enjoy  the  peculiar  sensation  of  sailing  on  the  rim  of  a  volcano. 
However,  there  is  nothing  like  getting  used  to  it,  and  I  learned  to  sleep 
quite  soundly. 

"  {  The  cabin  is  up-stairs,  and  extends  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the 
deck,  over  which  it  is  perched  upon  sundry  posts,  that  seem  too  frail  for  a 
summer's  breeze ;  this  is  divided  into  a  long,  narrow  saloon,  from  stem  to 
stern,  and  a  row  of  state-rooms  on  either  hand.  An  apartment  for  ladies 
is  curtained  off  at  one  extremity,  while  the  main  saloon  is  used  for  meals, 
conversation,  promenading,  card-playing,  and  whatsoever  one  may  list. 
The  kitchen,  pantry,  bar,  &c.,  are  all  contiguous  to  the  saloon  ;  with  every 
convenience  for  life  above  stairs,  so  that  passengers  may  spend  days  in  and 
around  this  saloon,  without  knowing  any  thing  of  the  deck-life  below. 
Some  of  the  state-rooms,  that  open  both  into  the  saloon  and  upon  the 
guard,  are  very  airy  and  pleasant.  If,  however,  there  is  any  deficiency  in 
regard  to  neatness  and  comfort,  it  is  in  this  department  of  the  boat.  We 
took  passage  in  the  '  Prairie  State,'  one  of  the  best  boats  on  the  river. 
The  furniture  was  neat,  and  the  table  excellent,  always  excepting  the  pre 
ponderance  of  grease  in  western  cookery.  But  the  ideas  of  civilization  ex 
hibited  in  the  state-rooms  reminded  me  of  Dr.  Bushnell's  discourse  on 
Barbarism  as  the  first  danger  of  the  West,  a  sermon  that  contained  some 
of  the  truest  of  his  paradoxes.  In  a  cozy  chat  with  the  captain,  I  found 
him  a  clever,  polite,  and  attentive  gentleman. 

"  '  The  scenery  of  the  Illinois  River  is  rather  low  and  monotonous,  but 
sufficiently  picturesque  to  arrest  the  eye  of  a  stranger.  It  savored  of  the 
romantic  to  sail  at  times  through  the  woods,  the  water  spreading  indefi 
nitely  among  the  trees,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  to  bring  up  at  the 
second  story  of  a  house,  that  seemed  to  say,  '  For  freight  or  passage  apply 
within.' 

"  Peoria  is  the  most  beautiful  town  on  the  river.     Situated  on  rising 


324  APPENDIX. 


ground,  a  broad  plateau  extending  back  from  the  bluff,  it  has  escaped  the 
almost  universal  inundation.  Indeed,  the  river  here  expands  into  a  broad, 
deep  lake,  that  embosoms  the  rising  flood.  This  lake  is  a  most  beautiful 
feature  in  the  natural  scenery  of  the  town,  and  is  as  useful  as  it  is  beauti 
ful,  supplying  the  inhabitants  with  ample  stores  of  fish,  and  in  winter  with 
an  abundance  of  the  purest  ice.  It  is  often  frozen  to  such  a  thickness} 
that  heavy  teams  and  droves  of  cattle  can  pass  securely  over  it.  A  sub 
stantial  draw-bridge  connects  the  town  with  the  opposite  shore.  The  town 
is  neatly  laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks,  the  streets  being  wide  and  well 
graded.  A  public  square  has  been  reserved  near  the  present  centre.  The 
place  wears  quite  a  New  England  aspect;  its  schools  and  churches  are 
prosperous,  and  its  society  is  good.  Back  of  the  town  extends  one  of  the 
finest  rolling  prairies  in  the  State ;  this  region  already  furnishes  to  Peoria 
its  supplies  and  much  of  its  business,  which  is  destined  to  increase  as 
plank  roads  and  like  improvements  shall  bring  the  producer  nearer  to  the 
market.  I  am  struck  with  the  sagacity  shown  in  selecting  the  sites  of 
many  of  these  western  towns,  of  which  La  Salle  and  Peoria  are  examples. 
May  the  children  of  light  be  equally  sagacious  in  choosing  their  points  of 
action  and  influence  for  Christ ! 

"  '  Traveling  on  these  western  waters,  throws  one  into  all  sorts  of  society } 
and  affords  a  fine  opportunity  for  the  study  of  human  nature.  I  found  a 
number  of  emigrants,  Irish  and  German,  on  the  deck,  occupying  sundry 
extempore  bunks,  and  living  on  their  own  bread  and  cheese. 

" '  These  emigrants  have  a  hard  life  of  it.  Poor  fare  and  exposure  to 
the  elements,  on  the  open  deck  of  the  boat,  often  engender  disease  among 
them,  and  break  up  families  before  they  reach  their  destined  home.  There 
should  be  an  active  missionary  agency  on  all  the  rivers  of  the  West.  The 
deck-hands  need  such  an  influence,  for  they  have  no  Sabbath,  and  are 
fearfully  addicted  to  profaneness  and  intemperance.  Their  manner  of  life 
begets  a  recklessness  of  death  and  of  all  solemn  and  sacred  things.  A 
man  overboard,  no  unusual  event  on  boats  nowhere  guarded  by  a  rail,  or 
a  death  by  cholera,  now  becoming  frequent,  make  these  men  callous  rather 
than  thoughtful,  and  render  life  and  death  alike  cheap  in  their  estimate. 

"  '  The  freedom  of  the  western  character  and  the  independence  of  the 
western  mind,  united  with  the  native  love  of  argumentation  in  the  Anglo- 
American  race,  render  it  easy  to  engage  men  in  discussion,  to  while  away 
the  listless  hours  of  steamboat  traveling.'  " 


THE   END. 


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HARPER  &  BROTHERS'  LIST  OF  NEW  WORKS.     9 

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II.,  1688.  By  DAVID  HUME.  A  new  Edition,  with  the  Author's 
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Macaulay's  History  of  England 

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Gibbon's  History  of  Home. 

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History  of  Spanish  Literature. 

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HARPER  &  BROTHERS'  LIST  OF  NEW  WORKS.     12 

Sketches  of  Minnesota, 

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History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico, 

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History  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella, 

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Harper's  Illustrated  Shakespeare. 

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Dark  Scenes  of  History, 

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14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 
LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


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General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


M88301 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


